Dive into Narnia at this magical bookstore in Fremantle.
If you’re anything like me, you spent much of your childhood waiting for a household wardrobe to suddenly lead to a magical world, just as much as you were waiting for an owl-delivered letter to invite you to wizarding school. Neither of these things may have happened, but books have always been a magical place, and one Fremantle bookstore has done its best to up the fantastical ante.
Since opening in 2016 inside the historic Moores Building on Henry Street in Fremantle, Paper Bird book store has been dedicated to children’s books, with a strong focus on Australian writers, illustrators and Indigenous stories, yes. But also a place for the classic childhood tales.
That much is clear by the life-size wardrobe, straight out of The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. Hanging inside, wool and fur coats obscure a new world behind them; a world of books. Since its inception, Paper Bird has become more than just a place to buy books. It’s now self-described as a “dynamic children’s cultural hub", where writers, storytellers and illustrators run workshops, kids’ book clubs, book launches and exhibitions.
And once the kids (and let’s be honest, the parents) are done playing, head on over to the Moores Contemporary Art Gallery and Moore & Moore Cafe next door.
Kids love this interactive bookstore.
It’s no wonder that books are becoming the new mode of travel inspiration (or should I say, the renewed form?), much like movies before them. And Australia is definitely pulling its weight to keep that trend alive.
From 10 of the absolute cutest bookshops around the country (11 now, we’re obviously going to need to add Paper Bird in), to some of the yummiest cafes that also happen to have well-stocked shelves of fascinating book titles to buy, it’s official that Aussies (and their kids) are obsessed with books.
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Kassia Byrnes is the Native Content Editor for Australian Traveller and International Traveller. She's come a long way since writing in her diary about family trips to Grandma's. After graduating a BA of Communication from University of Technology Sydney, she has been writing about her travels (and more) professionally for over 10 years for titles like AWOL, News.com.au, Pedestrian.TV, Body + Soul and Punkee. She's addicted to travel but has a terrible sense of direction, so you can usually find her getting lost somewhere new around the world. Luckily, she loves to explore and have new adventures – whether that’s exploring the backstreets, bungee jumping off a bridge or hiking for days. You can follow her adventures on Instagram @probably_kassia.
Trade early morning phone alarms and city chaos for bucolic serenity and gastronomic delights.
Peaceful birdsong and coastal winds meet rolling green hills and turquoise waters; there’s no better place to start your day than in Western Australia’s Denmark. This picturesque coastal town, a 4.5-hour drive from Perth along the pristine Rainbow Coast, offers bucolic bliss in spades.
A hidden retreat lies just a 10-minute drive from the town centre, inviting guests to slow down and connect with nature. At Heyscape Denmark, the ultimate refuge from the rat race and the perfect setting for a rural escape await.
Whether it’s for a refreshing weekend away or a regenerative week-long sojourn, this idyllic pocket of the world will leave you feeling anew.
Where to stay
Make the most of outdoor baths. (Credit: Jarrad Seng)
Located on the 880-acre Raintree Estate, Heyscape Denmark is an award-winning, off-grid cabin retreat ideal for anyone craving time in nature while also enjoying sustainable, luxury comfort. Just 15 are sensitively embedded in the rural environment, ensuring privacy and the perfect setting to switch off. Choose from one-bedroom, two-bedroom or 4-person cabins. Four-legged friends can also join in on the fun with pet-friendly cabins available.
Check in, to check out.
The modern accommodations are well-appointed with queen beds dressed in lush linen and pillows; a bathroom with a warm shower, flushable toilet and botanical shampoo and conditioner; and an indoor kitchenette with a Nespresso coffee maker. Outside, find timber decks with seating to spot resident kangaroos from, Heston Blumenthal barbecues for whipping up delicious meals using local produce, and outdoor baths to soak up incredible nighttime skies – Denmark’s lack of light pollution makes it an exceptional spot for stargazing and viewing the Milky Way. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame sweeping Great Southern Ocean, William Bay National Park and Karri tree views.
Wellness is at the forefront of Heyscape Denmark with thoughtful touches including Note to Self prompts, gratitude cards and a botanical sleep spray ready to help you unwind. And for the ultimate weekend of R&R, two-bedroom cabins are fitted with saunas.
Where to eat
Catch your own freshwater crayfish, then have a chef prepare it for you.
The Great Southern region’s Mediterranean climate and nutrient-rich soils make for some of the most incredible produce in the world – and a stay at Heyscape Denmark lets you sample the very best of it. The estate farms over 200 black Angus cattle, marron – a freshwater crayfish endemic to the South-West of Western Australia –, hemp and French black truffle.
Just steps from these cabins sits the estate’s paddock-to-plate restaurant, The Dam. Featuring lofty jarrah ceilings, polished concrete and expansive windows revealing calming dam views, it’s a stunning spot for lunch or dinner, alongside an outdoor playground to keep little ones happy and busy.
Acclaimed chef Jason Jujnovich utilises ingredients from Raintree Estate’s regenerative farm in his hyper-local, Modern Australian menu. Seasonally changing dishes include the likes of wagyu beef lasagna and pistachio crumbed chicken cotoletta. Or join in for pizza night on a Friday, where the mushroom and truffle pizza is an easy winner.
Meals are designed to be paired with sips from the property’s innovative Cannabis Botanical Distillery, which concocts house-made hemp spirits and seltzers using ingredients grown onsite. Taste unique drops such as the Sativa Gin with warm citrus and pepper notes and the Pineapple Passion seltzer.
Another stand-out gastronomic offering is Heyscape’s Marron Catch & Cook Experience, which lets you hand-catch freshwater crayfish from the property’s pristine dams and have them prepared and cooked to perfection for you by chefs. Those wanting to enjoy a meal from the comfort of their cabin can fire up the barbecue and grill their fresh catch or order a gourmet dinner box with mouthwatering wagyu steak and antipasti against golden peaceful sunset views.
Things to do
Spend a day enjoying the idyllic Lights Beach. (Credit: Tourism WA)
There’s no shortage of things to do in Denmark, and basing yourself at Heyscape Denmark puts you within easy access to it all. Nature lovers are spoiled with unbeatable spots for swimming and snorkelling, plus coastal hiking trails at William Bay National Park – a protected coastal reserve with approximately 1734 hectares of stunning landscapes ready to be explored.
Hire an e-bike from the property and cycle just 15 minutes to the unbelievably clear waters and white sands of Greens Pools, a naturally sheltered beach. Or the idyllic Lights Beach, which features three beaches, dunes, natural wading pool and scenic walking trails. Keen surfers should turn their attention to Ocean Beach with its world-class surf breaks.
Wander the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk. (Credit: Tourism WA)
Stroll past towering Karri and giant Red Tingle trees on the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk. The 600-metre walkway rises 40 metres above the ancient forest floor and meanders through the hardwood trees, endemic exclusively to the Great Southern region.
Denmark is also a haven for creatives, and Butter Factory Studios is a must-stop on any itinerary. The contemporary art gallery, working artist studio and gift shop are housed within a historic building where workshops and exhibitions support and showcase creators from the region.
With the winning trifecta of delicious food, a pristine environment, and secluded accommodation, Denmark proves to be the ultimate destination for relaxation.
