Like many medium-sized regional cities, Busselton has a bypass road that has both pros and cons. For years, people en route to the Margaret River region would take the shortcut.
Lately though, drivers – myself included – are veering around the roundabout, into the freshly polished main street and down onto the revitalised foreshore. It turns out Busselton – known as ‘Busso’ to the locals – has been unfairly overlooked.
Before you even reach the dazzling coastline – the sheltered blue expanse of Geographe Bay fills every inch of peripheral vision – there’s reason enough to pause. The first stop should be Bistro Breton, a thoroughly French crêpe house where traditional buckwheat flour is used, just like in Brittany (mais, oui!).
A few doors down, Alberta’s is a hole-in-the-wall 50-seater run by the former head chef of Noma (yes, THAT Noma) and his WA-born partner, previously Noma’s head gardener. Opening – for now – only between 8am and noon, Friday to Monday, they’re defiantly pursuing their dream of work-life balance while serving unconventional breakfasts such as chicken bone broth or bun with cheese.
Alberta’s Kitchen and Store is a must-visit spot. (Image: Josh Ball)
Next door to them is Burger Bones, a spot that became an instant institution revered for its intensely flavoured, grass-fed Blackwood Valley Beef – locals report driving for miles for a taste of it. Hally’s Bar is a short amble around the block and, with its arrival, barflies can now gaze over the rooftops, cocktail in hand.
Hally’s Bar has a rooftop with a view. (Image: Mckillop Photography)
The views may draw you to the shore, famous for Busselton Jetty, which juts 1.841 kilometres out over the ocean, making it the longest timber-piled jetty in the southern hemisphere. Its deepest pylons give way to an underwater observatory, with coral and subtropical fish visible through huge windows.
Busselton Jetty is iconic. (Image: Tourism Australia)
A new cafe and marine discovery centre are currently being built at its tip, due to open in mid-2023. Back on the sand, a nautical-themed playground complete with a sinking ship and whale’s tail distracts the kids while the parents pop into Shelter Brewing Co.
The lofty beer hall is overlooked by a life-sized humpback whale mural, which is fitting as the floor doubles as a whale-watching spot. But nothing beats joining Naturaliste Charters on a tour of the bay where some 40,000 whales pass by from September to November.
Mothers escort their calves to southern feasting grounds as playful humpback pods demonstrate how to breach, tail and fin slap on the way. Watching it all unfold in Busselton’s calm waters is pure joy.
Geographe Bay is a top spot for whale watching. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
With unhurried mornings, long, sun-filled afternoons, evenings shaped around sunset, this iconic beach offers an all-day experience (and it’s about to get even better).
As the sun slowly rises over the languid waves and fine sand of Broome’s Cable Beach, the morning colours shift from rich apricot to pale gold and frosty pearl. Remnants of life reveal themselves in the subtle shadows – crab claw marks, towel impressions, footprints. Life here is unhurried, but don’t be fooled. This town is continually shifting like the desert dunes that surround it.
And with a $75 million upgrade – offering easier and more inclusive access for people of all abilities – it’s getting even better.
Discover the Cable Beach redevelopment.
The addition of comfortable and welcoming spaces has begun (and will continue). This means visitors will be able to spend longer enjoying this beautiful environment, while knowing that the upgrade will create a more environmentally protected setting that preserves the natural character visitors come for. Come sunset, soak it in all the better thanks to the already improved foreshore areas, made for lingering while the light changes. And for the kids, a new splash park and accessible dry playground will make it easy to while away the hours.
Think you know what a day at this beach is like? Think again.
Morning colours
Cable Beach comes alive after sunrise. (Credit: Tourism WA)
As the sun colours the sky, Cable Beach shows signs of life (and not just the aquatic kind). Locals and visitors alike float in the cool water as it laps the shore, landlubbers explore the coast on foot, runners pace and beachside yoga classes bring quiet movement to the day.
When the sky is blue and the sun is firmly in position, head down to the well-known Cable Beach House for a long, slow breakfast overlooking the ocean. Think fresh tropical fruit, eggs cooked your way and strong coffee in the warm morning breeze.
Afternoon adventures
Join a camel train at sunset. (Credit: C J Maddock)
When you’re ready to explore, carve a path along the Minyirr Park Trail – a gentle 1.5-2km track through coastal bushland with spectacular views of the dunes. Refuel at the nearby Spinifex Brewery for lunch with its low-key, outdoor beer garden. There’s even an outdoor playground if you’re travelling with young humans.
Walk off your lazy lunch by watching (or joining) one of the beach soccer or volleyball games, or even try Silent Beats Broome – a silent walking disco through the dunes. Or book a spot on the famous camel trains, watching the sun drop below the horizon along the way. They’re a constant reminder of the fascinating history, landscape and cultural mix in this part of the country.
Evening degustation
Stop into the Cable Beach Club. (Credit: Tourism WA)
As the day closes, watch the world-famous Cable Beach sunset from the appropriately named Sunset Grill at Cable Beach Club. This open-air terraced dining spot overlooking the beach is the kind of place where the view takes centre stage.
While you sip on a lychee, lime & lemonade mocktail or a local beer, enjoy the bustle of life and nature outside as the day comes to an end.
For dinner, nab a table at the Bali Hai Cafe, where they offer pan-fried crispy barramundi, Abrolhos Island scallops and deep-sea snow crab. When you’re ready for bed, check in to Pinctada Hotel Broome – a lush, tropical resort with palm-dotted gardens and a large, lagoon-style pool to cool off in.
Beyond the beach
Beyond the wide, open beach and never-ending sky of Cable Beach, there are many more reasons to visit North West Australia. These are just a few.
Unmatched experiences
Join Shinju Matsuri Festival’s popular Long Table Dinner. (Credit: Tourism WA)
Engage with the history of the land and its people on an Indigenous cultural tour exploring everything from the local wildlife to the tastes of bush tucker. To understand the importance of pearling to this town, take a tour of Chinatown, or head outside of town to the live pearl harvests at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, one of Australia’s oldest pearl farms.
Learn why Japanese pearlers were central to Broome’s pearling success and visit the largest Japanese cemetery in Australia, where 900 Japanese pearlers were buried – a testament to the risks and rewards of this dangerous profession.
And book ahead every spring for when communal tables, freshly cooked local fare and festoon lighting fill the beach for the extremely popular Long Table Dinner on Cable Beach. It’s a highlight of the Shinju Matsuri Festival, along with the Floating Lanterns Matsuri, where you can personalise a lantern and gently release it into the sea to honour those you love.
Dining discoveries
Settle in for Matso’s famous ginger or mango beer. (Credit: Tourism WA)
Further your culinary adventure at the laid-back Sunday Sesh at Matso’s Broome Brewery. Chow down on smoked crocodile or Aussie barramundi while kicking back to a local DJ as the heat of the day fades.
For more tunes, the beautiful outdoor Bay Club at the Mangrove Hotel is a great choice for dinner with live music, DJs or an event that stretches on into the early hours. Still hungry? Pop by Johnny Sausage for Italian-influenced meals paired with impeccable wines.
Natural beauties
Experience the striking colours of Gantheaume Point. (Credit: Tourism WA)
Avoid the crowds and head to Town Beach for a quieter vantage point to see the phenomenal Staircase to the Moon – a natural illusion where the rising full moon is reflected on the tidal flats, creating a shimmering ‘staircase’ stretching up to the sky.
Just south of Cable Beach are the deep red cliffs and dramatic ocean views of Gantheaume Point, where 130-million-year-old dinosaur footprints can be seen, revealed at low tide. Or head to Roebuck Bay to visit the internationally significant wetlands, where vast tidal flats are home to shorebirds and coastal fauna.
Between October and March, watch turtles nesting and hatchlings emerge from the sand. You’ll be holding your breath as they make their way down to the shoreline, ready to start their life in one of Australia’s most beautiful landscapes.
