This four-day Cape to Cape Walk in WA is low-impact luxury at its best

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Hiking Western Australia’s Cape to Cape track with gourmet guides is a lesson in sustainable luxury. And a tasty one at that.

“Once a trip someone will say to me, you can’t call this a job!" Elise Parker laughs as we journey towards the starting point for today’s hike. As a guide and driver, Elise is attuned to the envy her guests feel, having pressed pause on their busy lives and discovered the slow road. She sees it every week.

The drive to Redgate Beach, one of many famous surf spots along Western Australia’s Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park coastline, is stunning to the point of distraction: the forest-flanked roads, the shimmering blue of the Indian Ocean on the horizon and barely another soul to be seen. “Keep your eyes out for your favourite winery, because no doubt we’ll pass it," our lead guide Matt Fuller adds from the back of the bus.

Vans with boards strapped to the top are lined up in the car park when we arrive, their drivers scoping out the scene. The swell is not huge today, but a dedicated few paddle out for the chance of a clean ride on the rare beach break. We’re hitting the sand instead, walking the length of the beach to meet the Cape to Cape Track, which will steer us along arguably one of its best sections to the towering karri and marri trees of Boranup Forest.

the Boranup Forest in Western Australia, Cape to Cape Walk
Walk amongst towering karri and marri trees of Boranup Forest. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

From end to end, the Cape to Cape Track is 130 kilometres of ocean-hugging curves and stunning vistas between the lighthouses of Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin in the Margaret River region on Wadandi Noongar Boodja (country). You can hike its length in around five to seven days, but there are guided options for those who prefer to tackle it in smaller, more pampered sections, such as the signature four-day Cape to Cape Walk I’ve joined with Perth-based outfit, Walk into Luxury.

the rocky coast along Cape to Cape Track
Appreciate the beauty and wildness of the WA coast. (Image: Luke Tscharke)

The birth of Walk into Luxury

It was on this track that the idea for Walk into Luxury was seeded 10 years ago, when founder Nikki King organised an end-to-end trek for herself and her husband. Then a time-poor solicitor, Nikki sought the escape and connection to nature. But, as a lover of good food and wine, she also wanted to enjoy the spoils this region is renowned for along the way.

Six weeks later, Walk into Luxury was born, with a guided package combining days on the trail with lunches at some of Margaret River’s best wineries, dinner prepared by a private chef and nights spent in luxury villas overlooking the ocean. It was an appealing recipe for low-impact luxury and just two years later, the Cape to Cape Walk was recognised as one of the 12 Great Walks of Australia.

hikers on the Cape to Cape Walk admiring the Sugarloaf Rock
Hikers on the Cape to Cape Walk stop to admire Sugarloaf Rock. (Image: Luke Tscharke)

A lesson in regeneration

We’re hiking in Djeran – the Noongar season that signifies the start of cooler weather; the Season of Adulthood – but layers are being stripped by the time we leave the beach, the sun scalding remnant clouds into remission. And, in step with the season, which is regarded as a time of renewal, today’s 14-kilometre amble is a lesson in regeneration.

Bushfire engulfed this area less than 18 months ago and while the plants that stabilise the dunes have regrown, the outlook is vastly more exposed than what would have once greeted hikers here. Charred tea trees stretch out either side of the sandy track, like sentinel skeletons reaching for the sky, with vivid green regrowth sprouting at their feet. The further south we go, the taller the grass trees reach – their cylindrical cores act like an insulated filter, protecting them from fire. A blessing when they only grow by about two centimetres per year. Through it all, the ocean continues its alluring dance.

“Welcome to Bob’s Hollow, or Mykonos as I like to call it," Matt jokes as we step down to our morning tea spot, aided by a chain balustrade. Turquoise water laps against limestone-capped rocks and our small group spreads out to claim a spot to ponder after filling stainless steel cups from the thermos.

“This is one of my favourite sections of the track," Matt says as I bite into the pain au chocolat Elise had delivered this morning. Originally from the Gold Coast, Matt cut his tourism teeth as a sports director on cruise ships around the world. “I came down here [to the Margaret River region] in the early 2000s with my wife and couldn’t believe it," he says. “I said if the east coast gets wind of this we’re screwed."

an aerial view of the sea along Cape to Cape Track
The Cape to Cape hike meanders along the length of the Leeuwin- Naturaliste Ridge in WA. (Image: Luke Tscharke)

Southwest WA is a land of plenty

My eight walking companions and I – all east coasters bar Heather from Adelaide – are equally as bowled over by this land of plenty. Australia’s Southwest, which encompasses the region, is a biodiversity hotspot with 80 per cent of the flora found nowhere else, part of the reason the Margaret River region was recently eco-certified as a destination. Wildflowers carpet the dunes if you visit in spring and, come late April, you’ll rub shoulders with the pro surfers who flock here for the world-renowned breaks. Its vineyards account for only three per cent of Australia’s yield, but command more than 20 per cent of the premium wine market.

Wine is poured for guests on Cape To Cape Walk with Walk Into Luxury
Walk into Luxury’s Cape to Cape Walk combines nature with a healthy dose of hedonism. (Image: Tourism Luke Tscharke)

For 60,000 years it has been the Traditional Lands of the Wadandi (Saltwater) people, nature’s rhythms gently guiding them as it does us today. Free from desks, deadlines and grandparent duties, luxury walking holidays like this offer the chance to tread softly, to appreciate beauty and wildness while honouring the land and ourselves. Stressed-out souls start to unspool, including Megan and Cam – a couple from Sydney’s northern beaches who recently found themselves empty-nesters with a backlog of leave. “We’ve both got pretty frenetic jobs and these past two days have allowed us to relax and decompress," Megan says.

The track leads us to soaring limestone cliffs and caves, like nature’s cathedral presiding above a blanket of coastal rosemary that spills to the shoreline. Following the ridgeline, I fall into step with second guide Marcel Kempe, who is in a different mode today after serving as sommelier at our intimate, exclusive dinner at Injidup Spa Retreat last night. Local chef Andrea Ilotts served up a nourishing four-course feast, inspired by produce sourced at the Margaret River Farmers’ Market each week. While we devoured roasted sweetcorn and crab soup, slow-cooked local lamb, crimson snapper from the Pilbara and Persian love cake made with local almonds and served with roasted plums from Donnybrook, Marcel was on hand to pour matched wines from organic vineyard, House of Cards .

“This is the money shot," Matt announces as we reach a rocky outcrop overlooking Contos Beach – a great arc of golden sand where the swell rolls in from its 8500-kilometre journey from South Africa. “If I was going to take someone to the Cape to Cape Track to see one place, this would be it," he says.

an aerial view of Leeuwin- Naturaliste Ridge
Be enveloped in wilderness and luxury. (Image: Luke Tscharke)

Lungs full of sea air, we wander into Quenda Camp – the Noongar name for the southern brown bandicoot found here – to find lunch is served, artfully styled by Elise. Salad wraps are stacked alongside cheeseboards loaded with moreish seeded crackers and zesty green pesto, with hazelnut studded brownies for dessert. I’ve been on luxury hikes before, but this is on another level.

Forest bathing among karri and marri trees

The next two hours go by in a blur of conversation and contemplation as we pass Jurassic zamia palms and baby banksias and fall into step beneath the towering trunks of Boranup Forest – a two-kilometre-wide swathe of karri and marri trees. It had been at least 30 years since the last fire here when flames stripped the creamy white trunks – some 60 metres high – of their vegetation. Eighteen months on, young green shoots reach skywards, signalling a new beginning.

Like a genie granting another of our wishes, we find Elise waiting for us at the end of the track, handing out cold towels – a fitting complement to our forest-bathing high.

“I guess there was a bit of a gap in the market in terms of the way that traditional tours and walks are sometimes promoted," Walk into Luxury founder Nikki tells me during a later conversation about hitting the right balance of walking with premium food and wine experiences. “They can be quite daunting if you are not a hardcore, super-fit hiker.

“We choose our partners because we have similar values around quality and sustainability … and the already exceptional food and wine tastes that much better after a good walk," Nikki says.

a group of people hiking through the marri forest in Boranup
The world-class hiking trail slices through swathes of karri and marri forest in Boranup. (Image: Luke Tscharke)

A balance of excellence in views and food

From here, we’ll visit the hand-planted, hand-harvested organic winery Windows Estate for a private tasting with co-owner Joanne Davies. Then it’s onto Dunsborough for a convivial, and memorable, meal at Yarri Restaurant + Bar.

Seafood and wine at Yarri Restaurant + Bar.
Enjoy lunch at Yarri Restaurant + Bar. (Image: Jessica Wyld)

After tomorrow’s final half-day hike from Moses Rock to the Wilyabrup sea cliffs we’ll land at Vasse Felix – the Margaret River’s founding winery – to taste our way through lauded vintages and relish an incredible four-course celebratory lunch, toasting both our stamina and good fortune.

the scenic vineyards of Vasse Felix
Indulge in regional flavours at Vasse Felix overlooking the vineyard. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

But that’s all still ahead as I return to my beachfront pad at Smiths Beach Resort, roll up the automatic blinds and drink in a glorious golden sunset over the water – a reward that’s just as tasty for an east coaster like me.

the living area in the beach house of Smiths Beach Resort
Private groups joining the Cape to Cape Walk can stay in style at Smiths Beach Resort. (Image: Laneway Photography)

The tour details

The four-day signature Cape to Cape Walk departs weekly on Sundays from March to June and September to November with transfers from Perth, three nights in an oceanfront pool villa at Injidup Spa Retreat, four days of guided walking and all food and wine included.

To cater for increasing demand, Monday departures based at Smiths Beach Resort are now available for private group departures on request. As well as personally maintaining six kilometres of the Cape to Cape Track, the advanced eco-certified Walk into Luxury provides guests with the option to offset unavoidable emissions via a voluntary carbon offset amount.

an aerial view of Smiths Beach Resort
Soak up the majestic sea views at Smiths Beach Resort. (Image: Laneway Photography)

Accommodation details

Nestled within Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, Smiths Beach Resort presides over an underrated beach where you’ll find a surf school in the summer months, and direct access to the Cape to Cape Track between the rock pools at the southern end (borrow snorkelling gear from reception to explore the ‘Aquarium’).

the main living area of the garden villa at Smiths Beach Resort
The resort overlooks the sparkling Indian Ocean. (Image: Laneway Photography)

Part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World portfolio, a recent refresh and the installation of 270 solar panels has elevated the architectural award-winning resort, with its array of spacious and well-appointed beach houses, villas and apartments.

Celeste Mitchell
With visions of hosting Getaway, Celeste Mitchell graduated with a Bachelor of Journalism and entered the hard-hitting world of boy bands, puberty, and fashion, writing for magazines like Girlfriend, Total Girl, CLEO and TV Hits in the early noughties (there was a lot of Twilight references). Since switching gears to full-time freelancer in 2013, focused exclusively on travel, she’s criss-crossed the globe, opened a co-working space, lived in Mexico, and co-founded slow and sustainable site, Life Unhurried. The Sunshine Coast-based author (Life Unhurried & Ultimate Beaches Australia, Hardie Grant) and mum of two regularly pinches herself that she gets to explore new places and ask all the nosy questions she wants in the name of work.
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7 Kimberley experiences that need to be on your bucket list

From thundering waterfalls to ancient Indigenous art, Kimberley’s raw beauty will take your breath away.

Wild, pristine, and shaped by nature, the Kimberley Coast is one of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes. A remote and rugged frontier that remains a bucket list destination for many travellers. Its most breathtaking attractions – including Montgomery Reef, King George Falls and Horizontal Falls – are accessible only by sea or air, making a guided expedition cruise aboard Silversea’s luxury expedition ship, Silver Cloud, the ideal way to explore it.

From its intricate intertidal zones to ancient rock art, extreme tides and rare wildlife found nowhere else in Australia – or the world – this journey offers an unparalleled exploration of one of Earth’s last true wildernesses.

Why Silversea?

Silversea offers a 10-day expedition departing Broome, or an extended 16-day expedition voyage from Indonesia, including landings on the hidden gems of Palopo Sulawesi and Komodo. Accompanied by expert guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology, guests gain a deeper understanding of the Kimberley’s dramatic landscapes, rich cultural heritage and extraordinary biodiversity.

Silversea offers one of the experiential travel industry’s leading crew-to-guest ratios. Along with all-suite accommodation (80 per cent with private verandah), 24-hour butler service, a swimming pool and four dining options. Silver Cloud also has an experienced crew of multilingual expedition guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology to enhance your Kimberley Experience.

silversea cruise ship pool deck
Take a dip in the pool deck.

1. Koolama Bay

​​Before visitors see King George Falls, they hear them – a growing rumble in the distance, steady and foreboding as the Zodiac glides through the gorge, the sound echoing off sheer rock formations. At 80 meters tall, the twin cascades carve through the red cliffs, churning the waters below in a spectacular finale – but Koolama Bay holds secrets beyond its striking scenery.

Named after a ship that beached here following an aerial attack by Japanese bombers in World War II, the bay may seem desolate, yet it teems with life. With Silversea’s expert guides on their 10-day Kimberley itinerary, guests gain a sharper eye for its hidden wonders – rock wallabies darting across the cliffs, crocodiles lurking among dense green mangroves, and high above, the silhouette of a bird of prey circling the sky.

King George Falls at koolama bay excursion on Silversea Kimberley Cruise
Take a shore excursion to see King George Falls.

2. Freshwater Cove / Wijingarra Butt Butt

Connect with Country on a wet landing at Freshwater Cove, also known as Wijingarra Butt Butt. Considered one of the most special experiences on both the 16-day and 10-day Kimberley cruises, Silversea guests are welcomed by the traditional Indigenous custodians of the land, painted with traditional ochre, and invited to take part in a smoking ceremony.

Located on the mainland near Montgomery Reef, Wijingarra Butt Butt holds deep cultural significance to the local Indigenous community. Here, rock formations along the shore represent spiritual ancestors, and guests are guided to a nearby rock overhang filled with ancient art, where traditional owners share the stories and meaning behind these sacred paintings.

welcome to country on freshwater cove during silversea kimberley cruise
Take part in a smoking ceremony. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

3. Vansittart Bay (Jar Island)

Modern history, ancient culture and mystery converge in Vansittart Bay, which is also known as Jar Island. Here, the first thing to catch the eye is the dented, silver fuselage of a World War II-era C-53 plane – a striking relic of the past. Yet, the true cultural treasures lie just a short hike away where two distinct styles of Indigenous rock art – Gwion Gwion and Wandjina – can be found.

The Wandjina figures, deeply connected to Indigenous traditions, stand in stark contrast to the enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings, which date back more than 12,000 years. Significantly different in form and style, the two different styles create a striking juxtaposition, offering a rare glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.

aerial view of Vansittart Bay, See it in you Silversea Kimberley Cruise.
Explore ancient Gwion Gwion rock art at Vansittart Bay. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

4. Horizontal Falls

Part illusion, part natural phenomenon, the Kimberley’s much-lauded Horizontal Falls aren’t a waterfall, but a tidal and geographic spectacle that visitors have to see to comprehend. Known as Garaanngaddim, the phenomenon occurs when seawater rushes through two narrow gaps- one just twenty metres wide, and the other seven metres in width, between the escarpments of Talbot Bay.

With each tidal shift,  the force of the water creates whirlpools, furious currents and the illusion of a horizontal cascade as thousands of gallons of water are pushed and pulled in through the gap every six hours with relentless movement, making this one of the Kimberley ’s most mesmerising natural wonders.

Horizontal Falls are described as "One of the greatest wonders of the natural world". They are formed from a break in-between the McLarty Ranges reaching up to 25m in width. The natural phenomenon is created as seawater builds up faster on one side of the gaps than the other, creating a waterfall up to 5m high on a King tide.
Watch whirlpools and furious currents collide. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

5. Montgomery Reef

As the tide turns in Montgomery Reef, magic happens. With the Kimberley’s legendary tides varying up to ten metres, at low tide the submerged reef almost appears to rise from the depths: exposing up to four metres of the sandstone reef.

The impact is otherworldly: as the water drains, waterfalls cascade on either side of the channel,  turtles left exposed scramble and dive, and fish leap in search of sanctuary in shallow pools. Meanwhile, the dinner bell rings for the migratory seabirds dugongs, reef sharks and dolphins that scavenge and feast in the area.

Using zodiacs, guests cruise through one of the world’s most significant inshore reef systems navigated by experienced guides, exploring the most intricate and fascinating parts of a 300-square-kilometre-wide biodiversity hotspot.

aerial view of boat going along Montgomery Reef
Witness seabirds, dolphins and reef sharks on the hunt.

6. Mitchell Falls by Helicopter

Experiencing the Kimberley by sea allows you to feel the power of the tides, but travelling by helicopter reveals the sandstone tapestry of the Kimberley, a landscape geologists believe is over 1.8 billion years old.

One of Silversea’s most popular optional excursions , guests who opt to fly into the interior from the onboard helipad soar up above the rust-coloured landscape of the Mitchell plateau, taking in one of Australia’s most scenic waterfalls: Mitchell Falls, a series of four emerald-coloured pools gently cascades into each other, before plunging down to the river below.

Seeing the landscape from above reveals a landscape weaved and shaped by the power of the freshwater wet season, juxtaposed to the constant lapping of the relentless and powerful tide on the coast.

aerial view of mitchell falls on silversea helicopter excursion
See emerald pools cascade into the river below. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

7. Indigenous Art Caves, Wandjina Art

The Kimberley Region of Western Australia is home to some of the most striking and significant

Indigenous rock art in Australia. Dotted throughout the landscape are caves, cliffs and rock overhangs depicting the striking, ethereal image of Wandjina, the rainmaker spirit and creation being central to many of the Dreamtime stories in this region.

Some of the paintings are regularly repainted by traditional custodians, while others are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Each artwork serves as both a cultural record and a living connection to the past, offering a rare opportunity to engage with the enduring traditions of the Kimberley’s Indigenous communities.

Freshwater Cover Rock Art the kimberleys
Walk among cultural records preserved in stone. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

See the best of this incredible part of the world on a Silversea Kimberley cruise. Book your 10- or extended 16-day expedition voyage at silversea.com