If ever you were looking for inspiration, that nudge you need to just get out there and get driving, 88-year-old Mary Taylor could well be it. But you’ve got a lot of catching up to do.

Somewhere out on a lonely stretch of road – maybe in northwest Queensland, maybe somewhere in the Territory – there’s a little red car speeding along. Behind the wheel is a woman wearing her deceased husband’s hat over her white hair. In the boot there are many small tins of baked beans, a flagon of sherry and a cask of claret. To pass the time as she drives she’s reading the names of the dried out creeks and the tracks meandering off into the heat and scrub. Dead Horse Creek. Wedding Bell Creek. It’s all history; it’s all fascinating.

 

Mary Taylor, 88, loves to drive. She’s driven herself around Australia at least 12 times, crossed India by train several times in the last days of the Raj and undertook many wartime sea trips. “It’s the getting there I like," she explains. “I only stay overnight. So it’s the open road. It’s the people you meet. Real people." And the “absolute freedom" of driving alone, always alone, through the Australian desert day after day: “I love the desert; there’s something fascinating about the desert."

 

Mary also gives talks about driving around Australia as “an elderly unattached female." At last count she’d given more than 350. She sells her book, Baked Beans in the Outback and Curry in Kashmir, at her talks. In the eight years since she first self-published it for family she’s sold more than 7500 copies.

 

Despite her success and the obvious appreciation from audiences, Mary remains self-deprecating to a fault. “I can’t believe anybody wants to interview me. I’m not that sort of person. Everyone says it was an interesting life. But it was just what happened."

 

She took her first trip at age 74. “My daughter lives in Armadale (Melbourne) and I go up the Princes Highway, and I used to think, ‘What if I kept on going?’ It became an absolute obsession, you’ve no idea."

 

She’d never even driven as far as Geelong before, and only got her license at age 40 while living in Queenscliff, where her late husband Tim taught at the army college. Her family were nervous; when her young grandson reported that her son-in-law had said, “Do you think we should allow her to do this?" she decided, definitely, to go.

 

“I can’t believe parents let their children tell them," Mary laughs. “Why should they? If anybody’s giving permission, it’s the other way around.

 

“People ask aren’t I frightened, aren’t I lonely? I can tell you, you’re much more likely to be mugged in your suburban street. Nobody will leave you by the side of the road in trouble . . . the truckies are marvellous, absolutely marvellous. They’re my lifeline. Not that I’ve needed them, but I know that if I was in trouble . . .

 

“There was one truckie I met at Balladonia Roadhouse [on the Nullarbor] and he was feeding a crow and talking to it. I said, ‘I can’t believe you’ve got a pet crow.’ And he said, ‘He comes up to me every time I stop at Balladonia.’ I said, ‘How do you know it’s the same crow?’ He says, ‘Well, no other crow would come,’" Mary trails off laughing again.

 

“See, I have the best fun because I’m by myself," she continues. “I have people come up and talk to me and that’s where you meet all these gorgeous people. This is where I’m not like your average tourist who wants to go somewhere fantastic. My destination is all the way round and back again. Driving up the Matilda Highway I love, because that’s as close as I can manage to the route taken by Burke and Wills. I think it’s a long way in an air-conditioned car – they either walked or rode their camels up that. Every day wondering when they were going to see the sea."

 

Life in the outback is much harder, isn’t it? “Oh, desperately. I think most of us make a fuss if we can’t get our favourite soap powder or something ridiculous, but people out there, they haven’t got washing machines anyway. They’ve got to be really tough.

 

“Last year when I went through Queensland it was drought time and, I mean, even the native gum trees were dying. That was dreadful. One year I went over when the clouds had just broken and as I was driving across the Nullarbor I couldn’t make out what these – brown rocks, I thought they were – and when I got up close it was kangaroos! They’d all come down to drink the water and they were so thirsty they didn’t bother to move when I went past."

 

And then there was the bull on the road, up in the Gulf of Carpentaria . . . “So there we stayed, the bull and I, locked in eyeball-to-eyeball contact for what seemed like a very long time," Mary says. “Till he decided to amble off and join his mates. Have you been up there? The size of the bulls – the stations up there aren’t fenced. They just have a cattle grid on the road, so you have a lot of roadside cattle."

 

Though nerve-wracking, Mary remained unfazed. “Because we lived through a war," she explains, “looking after children, never knowing if we’d see our husbands again. It was pretty stressful and it taught you to cope. You had to do it yourself. Everybody said [before my first trip], ‘Oh, what if this happens, what if that happens?’ Well, I just say, ‘I’ll deal with it when the time comes.’"

 

How long do you want to keep driving? “I’ve no desire to live to be 100. I keep thinking, and I’ve been saying this for years, that each trip might be my last. I’ve got to pay some respect to my age."

 

As you’re reading this, Mary’s most likely away again, zooming through the beautiful and barren backblocks of the country at a speed she wouldn’t disclose to us. She’ll be alone, of course, and happy. If she’s finally installed her CB into her two-year-old red Honda Jazz she might be talking to the truckies, asking them about the roads and whether she’s taken the right detour.

 

“Galloping Granny calling. Got a copy? Got a copy?"

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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The best trails and natural moments around Yarra Valley & Dandenong Ranges

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    The Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges boast some of Victoria’s most stunning natural scenery, making them a prime destination for outdoor experiences.

    There’s something very special about the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges. A mix of rugged bush, mist-laden rainforest, gardens bursting with vivid blooms and a network of rivers and waterfalls, the landscapes here are layered and diverse. Late summer is a particularly good time to visit, when the days are long and the region’s outdoor offerings are ripe for sun-soaked adventures.

    The best part? Despite being only an easy one-hour drive from Melbourne, the area feels a world away from the hustle. You’ll be greeted by a slower pace with fewer travellers and more room to move – allowing you to truly switch off and take it all in.

    From rail trails to rainforest walks, this is where you’ll find nature at its most rewarding.

    1. Warburton

    Biking around Warburton is one best natural experiences in the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges.
    Hit the trails at Warburton Mountain Bike Destination. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Perched at the top of the Yarra River, surrounded by pristine national park, the town of Warburton is a haven for nature lovers. It’s known for its towering redwoods, found in the Californian Redwood Forest just 15 minutes out of town. You’ll be in utter awe of these giant trees, some of which reach heights of up to 55 metres.

    The Warburton Rail Trail is another way to experience the town’s natural beauty. This flat, 40-kilometre route goes all the way to Lilydale and is ideal for a stroll or cycle past native bushland, wineries, farmland and parts of the Yarra.

    If you want to up the pace a little, head to the Warburton Mountain Bike Destination, which encompasses 160 kilometres of purpose-built tracks amid wild bush terrain. For something a little more laid-back, the Rainforest Gallery is a standout spot for a wander. The gallery features statuesque Mountain Ash and Myrtle Beech trees, moss-covered logs and tree ferns, and a 40-metre elevated walkway that brings you right into the centre of the forest canopy.

    2. Yarra Glen

    Yarra Glen is a beloved food and drink destination, but it offers far more than excellent produce and top-notch wines.

    A highlight is Alowyn Gardens, which stretches over seven acres. Inside, you’ll find nine different gardens with vivid floral and seasonal displays, plus a nursery featuring exotic plant species. The Wisteria Arbour is a crowd favourite, a curved walkway connecting the different gardens with a display of cascading lilac blooms.

    Intersecting with the Warburton Rail Trail, the first stage of the Yarra Valley Trail runs from the gateway town of Lilydale to Yering Station. A more manageable track of just 7.5 kilometres, it takes you through rolling farmland and pockets of native bush, with ample opportunities for wildlife-spotting.

    If you’re travelling with kids, McKenzie Reserve is a non-negotiable stop. The reserve encompasses a skate park, plenty of open grass to stretch little legs, and a nature-inspired adventure playground to suit every age and every energy level.

    3. Healesville

    One of the best natural experiences in the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges is seeing a Koala upclose.
    Get up close and connect with koalas. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Healesville is the region’s best place to meet local wildlife. It’s home to Healesville Sanctuary, where you can get up close to kangaroos, koalas, emus, dingoes, reptiles and more. Beyond giving you front-row access to these gorgeous creatures, you’ll appreciate the scenic charm of the tracks and trails that meander through the wildlife park.

    To see even more birdlife, head over to Badger Weir for a picnic. Situated among soaring Mountain Ash trees and tranquil waterways, the area supports several bird species, including crimson rosellas, Australian king parrots and the elusive lyrebird. Barbecue facilities are available, and several tracks leading to Badger Weir are pram-friendly.

    Fernshaw Picnic Area, located in the Yarra Ranges National Park, is another idyllic setting for picnicking and short walks, also encircled by Mountain Ash trees. Compared to Badger Weir, though, Fernshaw provides a slightly more secluded experience, making it ideal for quieter outings.

    4. Olinda

    Cloudehill Gardens is a beautifully curated, year-round garden destination featuring nine terraced gardens filled with seasonal blooms and lush plant varieties.
    Wander through terraces of ever-changing blooms. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Sitting more than 600 metres above sea level, the Dandenong Ranges have an enchanted feel and are shrouded in lush rainforest filled with tree ferns, mossy trunks and lingering mist.

    The town of Olinda is one of the finest places to experience this unique environment in all its verdant glory. At the Dandenong Ranges Botanic Gardens, rhododendrons reign and drape the gardens in a riot of colour every spring.

    The nearby Cloudehill Gardens are well worth visiting any time of year. In each of the garden’s nine terraces, you’ll find an array of plant varieties that bloom and transform across the seasons, including weeping Japanese maples that have been growing here for nearly a century.

    Besides being a haven for arbory enthusiasts, the nearby RJ Hamer Arboretum is a spectacular spot to enjoy panoramic views. Here, more than 150 tree species grow and overlook the neighbouring Yarra Valley and Great Dividing Range.

    5. Emerald

    A lady eating with the view of Emerald Lake Park.
    Enjoy a lakeside picnic at Emerald Lake Park. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Set just behind the Dandenong Ranges, the foothills town of Emerald has a slightly more open feel, featuring rolling hills and open bushland. The town sits on the edge of the Dandenong Ranges National Park, with a patchwork of forested reserves and accessible bush trails on the Emerald side.

    You can also take to the water at nearby Aura Vale Lake, which is popular for sailing, canoeing, fishing for eel and perch, and picnicking on the grassy banks.

    The stand-out, though, is Emerald Lake Park, a sprawling green with multiple recreation zones. Across 52 hectares, there are walking tracks, playgrounds, paddleboats, a model railway, fishing sites and a family-friendly wading pool that comes to life every summer. The park also lies adjacent to the iconic Puffing Billy, making it a perfect stop if you’re travelling on the historic steam train.

    Start planning your next adventure at visityarravalley.com.au