Food, towns and luxe stays: Here’s how travel has changed since 2005

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Let’s take a look back – and forward – to see how travelling Australia has evolved over nearly two decades of exploring our nation.

To mark 100 editions of Australian Traveller, co-founder Quentin Long sat down with Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison to discuss what has (and has not) changed in travel in Australia from the year the magazine launched in 2005 to today and beyond.

Australian Travellerco-founder Quentin Long and Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison
Australian Traveller co-founder Quentin Long and Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison. (Image: Nicky Ryan)

Quentin Long: So, in 2005 I was panicking about launching a new domestic travel media brand. What were you doing?

Phillipa Harrison: I was working for an Accor start-up in the youth hostel space called Base Backpackers. It was capitalising and corporatising the concept of ‘flashpackers’. That was so fun. I was the third employee onboard and we set up 11 hostels in 18 months. And backpacker bars, and a travel agency…

QL: So Jägerbombs at the bar with Pip?

PH: Maybe [laughs].

QL: Do you think Covid has given domestic travellers a greater appreciation for this country? I always hoped it would create a new habit for Aussies. So, for example, instead of going overseas every year, you go every two years.

PH: I do think Australians worked out over Covid that our own backyard is pretty damn special, so I would agree with you. Interestingly though, what appealed to people about Australia 50 years ago and what’s going to appeal to people about Australia in 50 years are similar things… our great natural landscapes… our great food and wine. Actually, 50 years ago, maybe not [laughs]. There’s another big change – food. I remember meeting a German woman who came to Australia in the 1970s and said she could not believe how limited this country was from a food point of view.

the food at Zin House in Mudgee
The Zin House in Mudgee is emblematic of regional Australia’s dynamic dining scene. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: [Laughs] I believe you got a hardship allowance if you were a French diplomat posted to Canberra in the 1950s and ’60s. How French. “You have to endure meat and potatoes every meal. Sacre bleu."

PH: Fast-forward to today and we have multicultural cuisine, but we also have this incredible produce and the people who produce it telling stories about the provenance. Our research tells us that travellers are blown away by our food.

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QL: Totally. By the way, I reckon it’s hard to have a bad meal in Canberra today. Part of the food story is where it comes from and, for me, regional Australia is the biggest improver since 2005.

PH: You think about going to somewhere like Orange in 2005 versus going there now and you have gourmet meals, great experiences, beautiful boutique accommodation. It really is chalk and cheese and it’s so good to see the regions prospering like that.

QL: Orange is an easy one. And Mudgee’s another easy one.

PH: The whole of regional Victoria is an eater’s paradise. Beechworth, Metung, Daylesford. The Scenic Rim’s done particularly well. Perth is outstanding. The Peak Trail in the Grampians. That is a beautiful collaboration between councils where they linked up a whole trail of 160 kilometres.

The wine regions have always been our successful regions: think Barossa, Margaret River, the Yarra Valley and Hunter. They’re evolving as well with more experiences around the cellar door that were never there before through things like the Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia and, in particular, its ‘Icons’ series.

wine tasting at sunset in Hope Estate
Hope Estate is one of many world-class wineries in the Hunter Valley. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: The growth in number and quality in luxury product in Australia is remarkable.

PH: Australia only had a few luxury properties in 2005; Lizard Island Resort, Longitude 131° and El Questro. That was about it. Eleven of the 18 luxury lodges have opened since 2005. So, qualia opened, Southern Ocean Lodge, Saffire Freycinet, Wolgan Valley… So, we now have an incredible range of luxury accommodation and experiences.

QL: We did a project with Tourism Australia in 2007 called the 20 Best Indigenous Tours of Australia in a 32-page magazine. We printed it and supplied the content translated in German. But it was never released in Australia. When I tried to have it distributed with Australian Traveller, there was no budget because: “The research shows that the Australian market is not interested in experiencing Indigenous culture." Today that would definitely not be the case.

PH: Totally. That’s a huge change from 2005. I think the Indigenous tourism offering that we have is much more extensive and immersive. It is run by Indigenous people themselves. It gives them an opportunity to live on Country and keep their culture going.

burning incense during an indigenous tour in Australia, Dreamtime Southern X, Sydney
There are now many wonderful Indigenous tour operators, such as Dreamtime Southern X, Sydney, which explore the way First Nations people experience Country. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: What do you think Indigenous tourism looks like in 20 years?

PH: I hope that as soon as you travel or arrive in Australia, you know that you are on Aboriginal Country. That experience starts at our airports and infiltrates every tourism experience in some way, shape or form for your whole trip.

an aerial view of the Maria Island, Tasmania
Feel the call of the wild on Maria Island, Tasmania, one of the Great Walks of Australia.

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QL: What would you love every Australian to do?

PH: One of the multi-day walks.

QL: Really?

PH: Yeah. I love, love, love them. They slow you down, you’re not zooming past this landscape, you’re immersed in it and you’re just walking really slowly through it. I actually think they’re largely undiscovered, the Great Walks.

the Larapinta Trail, a great walk in Australia
Trek the Larapinta Trail, another Great Walk, in comfort with Australian Walking Holidays. (Image: Peter Walton)

QL: This leads me to something else. One of the great regrets of my life is I didn’t do the Larapinta Trail before my MS got to the stage where I can’t. So, accessible tourism, I think we’ve come a long way. I heard Paralympic Games champion Dylan Alcott speak at the annual Tourism Australia Destination Australia conference this year and it really highlighted the issue for me. He described how he went to Noosa and saw they had beach mats for his wheelchair, and that was the second time he went to the beach in his life. As an Australian, you go, “Um, whaaaat??? An Australian who has only been to the beach twice…" Final question. If you could click your fingers and change one thing in Australia’s travel landscape, what would it be?

PH: That’s a really good question [laughs]. What would you change?

QL: Uh, honestly… I would change our service culture.

PH: See, I don’t think this is too bad.

QL: It’s not terrible, just inconsistent.

PH: Yeah, OK. Something related to that. I want more people to see tourism as a career, like it is in other countries. I have spent my entire career in tourism and I would love for more Australians to do the same, because it is a great industry to be a part of.

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Your guide to a gourmand getaway along the Murray River

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    Feast your way through Sun Country on the Murray – a beautiful and bountiful region in northern Victoria with gourmet delights galore.

    Nestled on the lands of the Yorta Yorta People along the mighty Murray River, Sun Country is a truly extraordinary place. The northern Victorian enclave is a tapestry of meandering waterways, ancient forests, sandy beaches, enchanting country towns and an easy way of life.

    Beyond its landscapes and bucolic charm, Sun Country on the Murray is a culinary paradise: think farm-fresh produce, family-run wineries and no shortage of places to feast.

    If you’re a serious foodie or simply epicurious, here’s your ultimate guide to a gourmand Murray River getaway.

    The Murray Farm Gate Trail

    The self-guided Murray Gate Farm Trail lets you sample the area’s best produce while immersing yourself in the lush Goulburn and Murray Valleys. The trail has something to suit every palate and pace, but there are a few notable highlights.

    1. Rich Glen

    Rich Glen Provedore and Rich Glen Skin & Beauty
    Stock up at Rich Glen. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

    Rich Glen is renowned for its award-winning olive oils. Everything is grown and created on the family farm in Yarrawonga, the results of which you can visit at Rich Glen Provedore – a treasure trove of gourmet foods, including that signature olive oil. Or explore Rich Glen Skin & Beauty, which stocks lush handmade skincare and wellness products.

    2. How Now Dairy

    A charming micro-farm producing ethical dairy, How Now Dairy, lets its baby calves remain with their mothers and its cows roam on rolling pesticide-free pastures. Try a selection of cheeses that do good and taste good, including a fantastic punchy blue, and velvety milk with a thick, creamy top.

    3. Cactus Country

    Cactus Country in the murray
    Stop into Cactus Country. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

    Cactus Country is a 12-acre stretch of desert-like garden containing cacti of all shapes, sizes and colours. Naturally, it makes the most of its bounty at the on-site bar and restaurant, with a cactus-infused dessert menu alongside a vibrant line-up of Mexican snacks and mains.

    4. The Olde Creamery

    The Olde Creamery is a local icon, a former hobby farm that has flourished into a thriving purveyor of flowers and foods. The elderflower cordial and bramble gin and tonic jam are must-tries, and make for tasty mementoes of your trip.

    Wineries, breweries and distilleries

    The region’s sunny climate and rich soils make it a prime place for viticulture. If wine isn’t your thing, you’ll also find boutique breweries and distilleries producing top-notch beers and spirits.

    1. Squires Winery

    a couple sitting at the bar at squire's winery, sun country on the murray
    Pop in for a tasting. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    With its idyllic positioning on the Ovens River, Squires Winery is a lovely setting for a long, leisurely lunch or tasting. Enjoy a riverside sip of prosecco, rosé or cab sauv, complemented by seasonal bites and a backdrop of towering gum trees.

    2. Cape Horn Vineyard

    Cape Horn is one of the region’s most established vineyards. Its sparkling durif/shiraz is a crowd favourite and well worth trying on your foodie tour, especially if it’s served with one of the winery’s delicious wood-fired pizzas.

    3. Byramine Homestead & Brewery

    Byramine Homestead brewery
    Enjoy a tipple at this historic homestead.

    A top pick among beer, cider and history enthusiasts, Byramine serves a rotation of brews made on-site in the historic homestead. Wander through the venue and learn about its colonial past before sitting down to a freshly made Ploughman’s and cold local ale.

    4. Monichino Wines

    Monichino is a slice of la dolce vita in northern Victoria, producing classic Italian varietals like pinot grigio and aromatica. Drop by for a tasting at the cellar door (open weekends or by appointment) and explore everything from crisp whites to robust fortified wines, or pack a picnic and savour your glass in the picturesque gardens.

    5. Corowa Distilling Co

    Corowa Distilling Co
    Sit down to a hearty lunch. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Corowa Distilling Co crafts an incredible variety of single-malt and blended whiskies, and is a beloved spot among locals and visitors alike. Stop in for a tasting flight in the whisky room, or a hearty breakfast or lunch paired with a wee dram.

    Farm-to-table dining

    If you’ve got the time to linger over a gourmet spread, Sun Country on the Murray has an abundance of outstanding restaurants and cafes.

    1. O’Reilly’s Food and Wine

    O’Reilly’s feels much like stepping into a good friend’s home, albeit with a refined twist. The menu changes weekly and rotates through a selection of comforting yet elevated dishes – think lamb cottage pie, French-style moussaka, a perennially popular open steak sandwich and cakes that change flavours weekly.

    2. Stock and Barrel

    a couple eating at Stock and Barrel victoria
    Soak in views of Lake Mulwala. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Tucked inside The Sebel Yarrawonga hotel, overlooking sparkling Lake Mulwala, Stock and Barrel does pub classics with a Sun Country spin. Order a perfectly seared steak and triple-cooked potatoes alongside a freshly poured pint, or try a regional highlight: local produce features abundantly across Stock and Barrel’s dishes.

    3. The Bend

    With spacious decks and panoramic views of the Murray, The Bend is ideal for a sun-soaked long lunch. Order a round of moreish share plates (like baja fish tacos and a warm-from-the-oven brioche loaf stuffed with cream cheese and herbs) or a signature cocktail and indulgent main – we can’t go past the slow-braised wagyu brisket.

    4. Blacksmith Provedore

    Black Smith Provedore
    Taste Blacksmith Provedore’s delicious pizzas. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

    If you’re after a slick yet relaxed dining destination, head to Blacksmith Provedore. Perched right next to Lake Mulwala, the venue is airy and elegant, with a minimalist-chic design. The pizzas are seriously good too, made with 72-hour fermented dough and toppings sourced from Italy’s finest producers.

    5. Broken Willow

    As soon as you enter Broken Willow’s front doors, you’re greeted with genuine hospitality and a classic bistro menu that has something for everyone: succulent grilled meats, parmas and schnitzels, juicy burgers, and international dishes ranging from weekly curry and stir-fry specials to zippy banh mi.

    While you’re there

    Thompson Beach in sun country on the murray
    Discover plenty to do between meals. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

    Got a few hours to spare? Make the most of your trip by exploring the natural wonders and rich cultural heritage of your riverside surroundings.

    Barmah National Park is a sanctuary of walks through majestic river red gums and serene wetlands. Here, a seat on board a Kingfisher River Cruise offers a different Murray experience, letting you see the vast river from the perspective of the Yorta Yorta peoples.

    If you’re a watersport enthusiast, Lake Mulwala in Yarrawonga is a favourite for canoeing, cruising, fishing, kayaking and water skiing. While the silo murals at Katamatite, St James, Tungamah and more recently Waaia are essential stops in Victoria’s famed Silo Art Trail.

    In Cobram Barooga, make sure to visit Thompson’s Beach, the largest inland beach in the southern hemisphere. Nearby, the Bullanginya Dreaming project is an award-winning 1.8km immersive art experience that immerses you in light and sound to tell a rich story of country, culture and connection.

    Start planning a tasty getaway to Sun Country on The Murray at suncountryonthemurray.com.au.