One American’s Journey Through the Outback

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When she came to Australia for a five month exchange program, Liz Cameron had no idea that camping her way from Alice Springs to Uluru (and getting stranded there) would be one of the highlights of her entire trip.

The Outback, Australia’s famous Red Centre, calls to mind quite a few images. Vast open land. Deep red dirt. Kangaroos. But even with these preconceived notions of what the Outback would be like, I had no idea what to expect. As a girl who’d lived in Florida her entire life, the most I’d ever seen in the way of a desert before I came to Australia for five months as an international student was a bit of sand and some cacti in Arizona. So with a small duffel bag, pillow, eighteen other university students from the U.S. and four chaperones, I boarded a plane at Sydney Airport, completely unprepared for the experience that lay before me

 

As we prepared to touch down in Alice Springs, the first thing I noticed about the Outback was its vastness. Even from thousands of feet up in the air, that red earth seemed to stretch on forever. After making our way through baggage claim to pick up our swags, sleeping bags, and various other camping supplies, we packed ourselves into four vans and were on our way.

 

The night was a very peaceful one. Except for when a dingo invaded our camp in the middle of the night, but I suppose that’s just the risk you take when camping in the middle of Australia.

 

After about a two-hour drive, we arrived at our first destination, a campsite in Ormiston Gorge. With only two or three hours of daylight left, we hastened to take a brief hike through the gorge. After making our way through some breathtaking areas, and of course pausing for numerous photo ops with rock wallabies, we headed back to our home for the night. The only part of the night that didn’t go smoothly was when one of the other students and I had to trek down a rocky path to fill a tub with hot water from the showers so that we could wash the dishes we’d used during dinner. Making our way back down that path in the pitch-dark night with the heavy tub semi-balanced between us was a quick initiation into the world of “roughing it". Other than that, the night was a very peaceful one. Except for when a dingo invaded our camp in the middle of the night, but I suppose that’s just the risk you take when camping in the middle of Australia. The next morning, we all woke up early, packed up camp, and settled in for a bumpy ride down long dirt roads. Our destination on day two? Kings Canyon.

 

When we arrived, we went directly to the canyon. After having lunch in the luxuriously paved car park (we were all feeling a bit battered after the less-than-smooth drive) we met our guides for the next two days, Micah and Patrick. As two highly respected members of the local Aboriginal community, Micah and Patrick knew just about everything there was to know about Kings Canyon. After a quick history lesson about the gorge, we embarked on a three-hour-long hike that was gruelling to say the least. They don’t call the first part of the hike, where you have to climb a staggering number of steep rock steps, “Heart Attack Hill" for nothing, take my word for it. With the hardest part of the hike behind us and our legs more or less intact, we embarked on what would end up being one of my favourite memories from the trip. Micah and Patrick told us some amazing stories about the gorge and showed us native plants that could be used for medicinal purposes. The views were breathtaking, the scenery some of the most beautiful I’d ever seen. By the time we got back to the car park, I was exhausted, thrilled, and had a memory card full of photos. Little did I know, the night would be just as exciting as the day had been.

 

After taking much-needed showers and eating inordinately large servings of dinner, we sat around the campfire and then received an unexpected visit from Micah and Patrick, who had brought us a special treat. They had gone hunting and found a joey in the pouch of a kangaroo they’d killed, put in Micah’s backpack, and brought it to our campsite where it would be spending the night with twenty-three more-than-willing babysitters. After agreeing that the joey should be called Bianca (after the character from The Rescuers Down Under, of course) we took turns holding her in her backpack-turned-pouch before splitting into two groups: those that wanted to go hunting with Micah and Patrick and those that wanted to stay at the campsite. I decided to stay at the campsite and was quickly designated as Bianca’s official caretaker for the night. So after the newly experienced hunters returned, I settled into my sleeping bag and swag (we stopped setting up tents after the first night because we couldn’t resist sleeping under that beautiful night sky) with Bianca in tow. Shortly after dawn, I was awoken by a series of sharp kicks in the chest, courtesy of the joey in my sleeping bag. It was time to begin day three of our Outback adventure.

 

The twenty-three of us (twenty-four with Bianca) piled into the vans and drove the short distance to Ulpanyali, the community where Micah and Patrick live. While there, we met other Aboriginals who live at Ulpanyali and showed us how to throw spears, cook a kangaroo, and told us some more stories about their culture and the area. After spending several hours at Ulpanyali, we gave Bianca back to Micah, who took her to a nearby kangaroo reserve, and said goodbye to our new friends. Now, finally, it was time to go to Uluru.

 

Even though we’d spent the entire afternoon crammed into the vans, we were all smiles when we finally caught sight of Uluru in the distance. We went straight into the park and soaked up as much of the massive rock as we could. After watching the sun set there, we went to set up camp for the last time. We would be staying at a campsite near the park for the next two nights, since we had agreed that Uluru was where we wanted to spend the majority of our trip.

 

Shortly after dawn, I was awoken by a series of sharp kicks in the chest, courtesy of the joey in my sleeping bag. It was time to begin day three of our Outback adventure.

 

The next morning, we rose before the sun and went back to Uluru. Bob Randall, who most people just call “Uncle Bob", invited us to watch the sunrise from a beautiful lookout point in the community where he lives. Uncle Bob is a very inspiring Aboriginal man who, as a member of the Stolen Generation himself, works to help those who were also taken from their families. Uncle Bob also invited us to take part in a traditional sunrise ceremony and then go back to his house for breakfast. Needless to say, it was an incredible experience. We spent the rest of the day exploring Uluru and Kata Tjuta, trying not to think about the fact that we were supposed to fly back to Sydney the next day. Little did we know, Qantas had other plans for us.

 

We showed up at the Uluru airport the next morning only to be told that Qantas had us listed as flying out of Alice Springs rather than Uluru and informed us that we would have to drive back to Alice Springs and fly out two days later. Under any other circumstances, we would have been euphoric at the chance to stay in the Outback for an extra two days, but we were all out of clean clothes and weren’t sure how much more bouncing in the back of the vans we could handle. So with dirty socks and exasperated sighs, we packed the vans yet again and began the long drive back to Alice Springs.

 

Over the next two days, we amused ourselves by exploring the town, going to the incredible market held there, visiting a wildlife park and hanging out at the campsite (which had a laundry facility, God bless it). When we showed up at the airport this time, our group reservation was accurate and we filed onto the plane that would take us back home to Sydney. We were exhausted from the whirlwind of the past week, our clothes were permanently stained red, but we were ecstatic about the experience we had just had. I’ve had the opportunity to see many incredible things during my time in Australia, but the Outback is definitely on the top of the list, lost flight tickets and all.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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7 hotel bars around Australia worth travelling for

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins

    Whether it’s a pre-game tipple, night cap, settling in for long conversations or getting social, there’s something sophisticated about these stylish hotel bars.

    From James Bond’s Casino Royale to the colourful Grand Budapest Hotel, there’s a reason so many classic films feature scenes set in hotel bars. With sleek designs, intimate ambience and sophisticated undertones, a hotel can be the highlight of a night out, or indeed an entire holiday. Whether you’re sipping on a whisky neat or a virgin martini, these hotel bars are the perfect places to linger in.

    1. Together & Co Bar, Albany

    Together & Co, one of the standout Hilton Hotel Bars during the day.
    Raise a glass to local flavours and harbour views.

    Overlooking Princess Royal Harbour, Together & Co in Albany is a hotel bar the locals love. Bright and airy, with sweeping water views framed by floor-to-ceiling windows, the interior is fitted out in warm timber and leather with muted green and blue accents. This popular hotel bar is part of the acclaimed open-plan Together & Co. restaurant on the ground floor of the Hilton Garden Inn Albany and its design reflects the colours of Western Australia’s Great Southern region.

    The extensive drinks menu includes regional highlights, such as Western Australian craft beers, local Great Southern wines (try the regional Riesling), and Margaret River Giniversity gins, alongside seasonal cocktails. Pair your choice of liquid with the deep-fried brie with poached pear, cream cheese brittle and balsamic glaze – and sit back and enjoy the view.

    2. The Deck Bar, Alice Springs

    The woody interiors of The Deck Bar, Alice Springs, one of Hilton Hotel Bars.
    Relax with local flavours as the desert comes alive at sunset.

    There are few places in Australia that carry the cultural weight and natural awe of the Red Centre. A visit here will stay with you for a long time, so it’s worth staying somewhere as memorable. Surrounded by the burnt-orange MacDonnell Ranges, DoubleTree by Hilton Alice Springs offers a sharp contrast to its desert setting with lush gardens and inviting open-air pool.

    The hotel’s Deck Bar not only brings desert views into its design, but the interior’s earthy tones and timber and stone-coloured upholstery allows the desert sunset to take centre stage. Grab a crisp local beer or Australian wine and a seasonal grazing board (or loaded fries) and relax, Northern Territory-style.

    3. Together & Co Bar, Busselton

    Warm lighting creates an inviting atmosphere at Together & Co Bar in Busselton, one of Hilton Hotel Bars.
    Sip local wines with views of Busselton Jetty.

    Whether you’re looking for a post-swim snack, a long languid lunch or an evening cocktail, the relaxed, casual atmosphere of the Together & Co Bar in Busselton will deliver. Not only will you be just steps from the shores of Geographe Bay, but you’ll also be able to see the iconic Busselton Jetty from this popular hotel bar. As part of the Hilton Garden Inn Busselton, Together & Co Bar is dedicated to local produce and local beers, wines and spirits. For a quick pre-dinner drink, grab one of the seats at the bar and order a chilled Margaret River chardonnay and Native Salt & Pepperberry Squid to start the evening off in style.

    4. Edge Terrace, Cairns

    The open-air terrace at Edge in Cairns, one of Hilton Hotel Bars.
    Grab a drink and linger by the Cairns waterfront.

    As Far North Queensland’s tropical humidity drops and the heat gives way to gentle sea breezes, the alfresco terrace at Edge Terrace in Cairns is the place to be. Why? Well, it might have something to do with incredible views of Trinity Bay, with the Lamb Range in the distance. Perhaps it’s the location, right in the heart of the Cairns foreshore, where you can watch Great Barrier Reef vessels return to the marina at sunset. Or the fact there are resident DJs on Friday and Saturday nights.

    Whatever it is, the Hilton Cairns’ hotel bar is a local hot spot with a great selection of Australian wines and beers, and bar bites that will leave you wanting more.

    5. Vine Room Bar, Cairns

    A handcrafted cocktail from The Vine Room, one of Hilton Hotel Bars.
    Order a signature cocktail.

    A little further up on the Esplanade, closer to the famous Cairns Aquarium, the inviting hotel bar at DoubleTree by Hilton Cairns is the latest addition to Cairns’ nightlife. The Vine Room Bar brings a Mediterranean-inspired menu to this poolside location with fresh seafood, wood-fired pizzas and fresh bread with home-made dips are among the standouts.

    The coastal design includes comfy cane and woven dining chairs, natural timber, soft beige tones and large windows opening onto the waterfront terrace. If you visit on the weekend, be sure to book a table to enjoy the live acoustic music sessions on Friday and Saturday evenings as the sun dips into Trinity Harbour.

    6. Palm Court Bar & Lounge, Darwin

    The classic lounge interiors of Palm Court Bar & Lounge at Hilton Darwin.
    Escape the heat with cocktails and classic elegance.

    If you’re after an expertly made cocktail in a classic hotel lounge and bar setting, then the Hilton Darwin has you covered. The Palm Court Bar & Lounge is the perfect place for an intimate pre-dinner drink or late-night cocktail. With ambient lighting, plush seating and sleek design, this is a hotel bar with unbridled sophistication and excellent air-conditioning to escape Darwin’s heat.

    Of course, you could order a champagne or something from the highly curated wine list, but why not try one of their signature piña coladas or a reimagined classic like their Ginger Lily’s Negroni instead? Add a light bite to it, or order from the hotel’s PepperBerry restaurant and settle in for the night.

    7. Ms Margot’s Bar & Eats, Gold Coast

    Ms Margot’s Bar & Eats, Gold Coast
    Enjoy the coastal glamour of Ms Margot’s.

    The interior design of Ms Margot’s Bar & Eats at the Hilton Surfers Paradise Hotel & Residences is the epitome of coastal glamour. There are the white marble and stone finishes, woven textures, light timber tables, a luxurious marble cocktail bar and even floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the famous Orchid Avenue.

    While the bar serves up steaming barista coffee in the morning, come midday you can sink into a craft beer or cider, then order from the impressive cocktail menu. No matter when you arrive, choose from the all-day menu which includes share plates, tapas, cheeseboards and pizzas. Don’t miss the popular Signature High Tea with duck bao buns, green pea croquettes, freshly baked eclairs and scones and gelato bon bons – with bottomless bubbles, of course.

    Plan the perfect tipple at hilton.com