The Australian Alps Walking Track

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The fourth of Australian Traveller’s epic bushwalks, the Australian Alps Walking Track is also the highest.

Foremost is the walk from Mt Howitt to the Viking (four days), revealing some of the most rugged and spectacular areas in the High Country. The type of terrain is betrayed by some of the feature names: Mt Buggery, Mt Despair, Horrible Gap and the Terrible Hollow.

 

The mountain lover’s long-distance trail, the Australian Alps Walking Track (AAWT) rolls up, over and through the High Country between Walhalla, in Victoria’s Gippsland region, and Canberra’s edge.

 

Though it’s the closest of the trails to Sydney and Melbourne, it’s also conversely the most isolated and demanding, requiring detailed preparation and up to six weeks in changeable mountain conditions.

 

Throughout its 680km length, the AAWT never once passes through a town – the nearest thing it sees to a settlement is the Mt Hotham resort (it also passes within a few klicks of Thredbo).

 

For this reason it’s a logistical exercise as much as a physical one, requiring a number of food drops (usually hidden in the bush) to be organised ahead of your departure.

 

First mooted as a walking trail in the late 1960s, the original plan was for a Victorian track only, beginning in Walhalla and ending at Tom Groggin on the NSW border.

 

By 1976 this trail was complete, and it wasn’t until the 1990s that the extension through NSW and into the ACT was added.

 

Though it’s unquestionably spectacular, the AAWT is also an imperfect trail, running close to some of the country’s outstanding peaks, including Mts Feathertop, Bogong, Kosciuszko, Townsend and Tate, but not over them.

 

Fortunately, it’s a simple task to remedy this. A day can be spent walking along Razorback Ridge from Hotham to Feathertop, while Cleve Cole Hut, on the AAWT, is little more than an hour’s walk from Bogong.

 

At Rawson Pass, beneath Kosciuszko, the AAWT makes an unusual dogleg, turning away from the peaks and following the sealed Charlotte Pass road back to Smiggin Holes.

 

Far better is to continue along the Main Range from Rawson Pass, climbing over Australia’s highest peaks and rejoining the AAWT at Whites River Hut.

 

Trail highlights are many, though two or three stages stand out.

 

Foremost is the walk from Mt Howitt to the Viking (four days), revealing some of the most rugged and spectacular areas in the High Country. The type of terrain is betrayed by some of the feature names: Mt Buggery, Mt Despair, Horrible Gap and the Terrible Hollow.

 

Begin near Macalister Springs, off Howitt Road, joining the AAWT just below Mt Howitt and inching across the narrow Crosscut Saw ridge to Mt Speculation.

 

After climbing to the summit of Mt Despair the terrain becomes even more difficult, with the track unmarked and difficult to follow.

 

Atop the Viking, the AAWT turns east towards Barry Saddle, but you can also complete a circuit back to Mt Howitt by descending to the Wonnangatta River and back up the Wonnangatta Spur.

 

A second section of note is the 76km from Hotham across the Bogong High Plain and Mt Wills to the Omeo Hwy, following snow poles much of the way.

 

It represents about five days in the company of Victoria’s mountain royalty: great views of Feathertop, a climb to Mt Nelse, a detour to Bogong and, finally, views back to the high plain from Mt Wills.

 

This section also provides a great showcase of mountain cattlemen huts, like Wallace’s Hut on the Bogong High Plain (top).

 

For a break from mountains, consider the 50km section from the old gold-mining settlement of Kiandra through the Cooleman area of northern Kosciuszko NP.

 

You’ll have the opportunity to see the Murrumbidgee River in its mountain-stream infancy before climbing over Gurrangorambla Range to one of the High Country’s most unusual features: the porous karst of the Cooleman Plain.

 

This tussocky plain is hole-punched with caves, most notably at Blue Waterholes, where a series of springs pours to the surface.

 

Take a detour (and a torch) west along Cave Creek and you’ll find two of the more impressive caves, while the creek itself is most dramatic just downstream from Blue Waterholes, through the limestone Clarke Gorge to a series of waterfalls beyond.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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This is Mornington Peninsula’s most indulgent itinerary

    Kellie Floyd Kellie Floyd
    The Mornington Peninsula blends vineyards, galleries, golf and delicious finds for an unforgettable getaway that indulges all penchants. 

    Just over an hour from Melbourne, the Mornington Peninsula blends coast and country in a way that feels effortlessly indulgent. It’s a region where vineyard views meet acclaimed dining, art and culture is never far from the sea, and where hot springs bubble alongside rolling fairways. Whether your escape is a long lunch, an immersive art trail or a round of golf, the Mornington Peninsula has an itinerary to match. And there’s always a glass of good local pinot waiting for you at the end of the day.  

    A creative trail through the Peninsula 

    The Mornington Peninsula is a haven for artists and creatives. Its coastal views and rolling landscapes have long been a source of inspiration. Stay at the historical InterContinental Sorrento, a grand hotel established in 1875, recently renovated to blend heritage charm with contemporary elegance. With curated art lining the hotel’s corridors and rooms, you could spend hours simply wandering the halls, studying the walls. 

    Pt Leo Estate outdoor gallery
    Wander around Pt. Leo Estate’s outdoor gallery. (Image: Visit Victoria/Jesse Hisco)

    If looking for an outdoor gallery with sea views, head to Pt. Leo Estate, a landscaped vineyard home to a sculpture park featuring more than 70 large-scale works by both local and international artists, all easily accessible by connecting paths. After strolling through the vineyards, there are three dining options: fine dining at Laura, a relaxed meal at Pt. Leo Restaurant or a vino at the Wine Terrace. For something more hands-on, sign up for the Sip & Sketch experience. And if you book directly into the elegant Lancemore at Lindenderry Red Hill, you’ll enjoy free access to the sculpture park.  

    food at Pt Estate
    Pt Leo Estate boasts three elegant dining venues. (Image: Visit Victoria/Two Palms/Arianna Harry)

    For those who like their art framed by rolling hills, vines and wetlands, Montalto is the place. More than 30 sculptures are dotted throughout the property. The vineyard offers a formal restaurant and casual tables among the seasonal produce in a setting that feels like Mr. McGregor’s Garden from Peter Rabbit. And there’s always the option to picnic on the lawn.  

    Montalto Vineyard
    Montalto Vineyard is an idyllic setting for afternoon wining and dining. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robyn Lea)

    The Sorrento-Portsea Artists Trail offers a self-guided walk along bush paths and sea cliffs to see the same landscapes that once inspired brushstrokes of some of Australia’s most famous artists. Along the way, interpretive signs share insights into the area’s artistic past. And, if the peninsula’s weather turns a little wild, the region is brimming with galleries, particularly around Flinders, Sorrento and Red Hill. Artisan studios are open by appointment.  

    A feast for food and wine lovers 

    With more than 200 vineyards, around 60 wineries and cellar doors, plus an abundance of breweries, distilleries, orchards and family-run farms spanning generations, the Mornington Peninsula is a playground for food and wine enthusiasts.  

    Cassis Red Hill
    Luxurious stay, Cassis Red Hill.

    The perfect base for a culinary inclined trip is Cassis Red Hill, where luxury accommodation is tucked between grape vines and olive trees. A quiet nod to the fishing village of Cassis in the south of France, this retreat is all about contemporary elegance – crisp linen, sunlit interiors and a private mineral plunge pool. 

    Then, for a stand-out lunch, Green Olive at Red Hill offers a delicious way to enjoy the region. Graze on generous tasting plates with house-made relishes, lamb sausages, local cheese and just-picked garden produce. Pair it with a wine flight or order a picnic hamper to enjoy among the olive grove; there’s a picnic option for your dog, too. And for a playful twist, Green Olive is home to what is believed to be Australia’s only pickleball court set within a vineyard or orchard.  

    Amid the many wineries with open cellar doors, Main Ridge Dairy offers a delicious detour – a goat dairy where you can sample handcrafted cheeses and even meet the resident goats. For a more refined experience, Paringa Estate is one of the peninsula’s most awarded wineries, offering fine dining with sweeping vineyard views and a menu crafted from seasonal, locally sourced ingredients.   

    If you’re looking to step outdoors before a lingering lunch, during winter Flinders Truffles offer the chance to join their clever dogs and search for the black gold under oak trees. For an authentic taste of the region, time your visit with one of the Peninsula’s vibrant farmers’ markets.

    From golf days to spa stays 

    Kingswood CountryGolf Club
    Peninsula Kingswood Country Golf Club. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    With its champion courses, the Peninsula is a dream destination not only for those who love to tee off but for those who enjoy the post-golf wind down. Peninsula Kingswood Country Golf Club draws keen golfers from around the world, while Peppers Moonah Links Resort is a course that has hosted both a PGA tournament and two Australian Opens. For a true test of skill, The Dunes Golf Links is one of Australia’s top public courses. Each golf course offers accommodation, and staying onsite means maximum convenience, especially at The Dunes, where premium rooms have you sleeping right next to the fairway. Off-course indulgence is close at hand, too.  

    Alba Thermal Springs& Spa
    Soaking at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Peninsula Hot Springs and Alba Thermal Springs are just next door, where thermal waters drawn from geothermal mineral springs deep underground provide the ultimate recovery after a day of perfecting your swing. These award-winning wellness sanctuaries offer everything from bathing pools to private plunges and spa treatments. 

    Jetty Road Brewery
    Jetty Road Brewery.

    After sinking the last ball, and the 19th hole beckons, the Peninsula serves up just as many dining options as it does golf courses. Just minutes away and right on the beach, Jetty Road Brewery is a laid-back spot perfect for a round of beers and typical pub fare. For something a little elevated, book a table at Epicurean. Here, a glass of local red pairs beautifully with handmade pastas and woodfired pizza, all served in a historical coolstore and packing shed dating back more than a century.