Recruited from the Middle East and India for their hardiness, camels were the backbone of support behind some of this country’s most ambitious infrastructure projects, writes Jessica Zavolokin.
It’s the New Year’s Eve of 1865 in Port Augusta, South Australia, and a crowd of people gather to witness the spectacle of 124 camels being hoisted from a ship onto a new continent and 31 peculiar, sandal-clad men setting foot on unfamiliar territory.
These foreigners would go on to be a pillar for the Australian economy, ultimately supporting the outback for 50 years, playing a pivotal and much understated role in Australian history.
Nineteenth-century Australia was a magnet for explorers, settlers and prospectors who were eager to map the vast and inhospitable continent, but it had become clear that horses, the traditional means of transport, weren’t suitable for such tough conditions. The solution was the so-called Afghan Cameleers (a misnomer because they weren’t all from Afghanistan).
They would assist exploration parties – such as the Burke and Wills expedition of 1860 and Madigan’s Simpson Desert Crossing in 1939 – hauling supplies and resources where horses and oxen couldn’t.
Madigan initially described the camels as “queer, stupid and unapproachable", but acknowledged their capabilities in the soaring heat when food and water dried up. He said the camel “kneels, uncomplaining and unconcerned, a tower of strength and comfort… good for another 200 miles".
There were some 800 cameleers in Australia by the 1890s; not only did these men and their steeds assist with exploration, they played a momentous role in our country’s infrastructure.
Most significantly, they were an integral part in the construction of the Overland Telegraph between Adelaide and Darwin and later The Ghan railway between Adelaide and Alice Springs, carrying building and railway resources, food, furniture, water, mail and medicine.
Graham Dadlah, a train driver on The Ghan for more than 35 years, honours his ancestral legacy: “My great grandfather was one of the first cameleers to come out in the late 1800s to Australia; he was brought out here to work the camel trains and deliver transport for the telegraph line through to Alice Springs."
More than 150 years on, he feels great pride taking passengers through the heart of the country. “It’s a unique job and I feel honoured to be a driver of this legendary train."
Newcastle’s vibrant creativity is evident everywhere, from a thriving live arts scene to an ever-growing offering for gourmands. Those with a hunger for new and exciting experiences should put Newcastle on their radar.
When it comes to consuming the culture of a city, digesting it (in the literal sense) is an appropriate place to start. But it’s not just a world-class wining and dining scene that’s on the menu (not to mention all the new restaurants in Newcastle). Newcastle – just two hours north of Sydney – offers the perfect blend of arts, culture and culinary experiences that make it a prime destination for an extended escape. The city’s creative future looks even brighter with the reopening of the highly anticipated Newcastle Art Gallery on the horizon.
Newcastle offers the perfect coastal setting for the arts and delicious eats. (Image: City of Newcastle)
Given Newcastle’s compact size – many venues are within easy walking distance or a quick drive away – you can immerse yourself fully. From decadent patisseries to fine diners and casual coastal eats, here’s a fresh taste of Newcastle: where to eat, drink and soak up the coastal city’s good vibes.
1. Pastry cafes in Newcastle
Lean into Newcastle’s pastry renaissance at Crumb. (Image: Jemma Donkin)
Pastry is having a moment, with a quietly booming scene led by CRUMB, the brand-new pastry cafe in Lambton led by legendary Gareth Williams (of Covered in Crumbs, EXP) and Ben Richardson (Autumn Rooms). Gareth describes his style of food as ‘creative chaos’. Enjoy that abstract artisanal approach over a savoury chorizo, bechamel, cheddar and poppy pastry, or a layered mortadella and pesto mayo croissant sandwich.
Meanwhile, Leibe European Pastries, Pekárna, Union St Pastry and Praise Joe also have their own flair and loyal followings. While Liebe European Pastries is famed for layered German pastries such as Franzbrötchen, Pekárna’s signatures (like cardamom pastries) are tethered to Czech traditions.
Head a few blocks west to Wickham, where Union St Pastry is the pinnacle for lovers of European-style viennoiseries, such as croissants and Danishes. A getaway to Newcastle also looks pretty fabulous with a mega brownie or chicken little toastie from Praise Joe.
Life looks pretty peachy from a table at the breezy Mediterranean-inspired eatery Blanca, which would not be out of place in Mykonos – when it swooped into the Honeysuckle Precinct a few years ago, it caused heads to swivel. Say yasou to mezedes of crudo di mare and sheftalia and grilled Abrolhos Islands’ octopus.
One may also fantasise about being back in Europe – specifically the 10th arrondissement in Paris – at Frenchie, the oh-so-French bistro that offers Euro-chic elegance with an inventive Australian flair. Indulge in the Date Night set menu, available every Thursday.
Peregrin is another stand-out. Listen to the sound of the ocean from the rooftop terrace, and order a Summertime Sour during aperitivo hour. Followed by the yellowfin tuna with pickled cucumber and market fish. And brand new on the scene is Papalote – a joint venture from the incredibly talented owners of Humbug and Flotilla serving up tasty Mexican classics.
3. Casual coastal cafes and kiosks
Follow Newcastle’s coastline for stunning views and tasty eats. (Image: David Diehm)
What better way to soak in Newcastle’s legendary coastline and stunning beaches than by visiting its casual coastal eateries while on the Bathers Way?
Enjoy hot chips and scallops on the sand at Swell Kiosk Bar Beach. Or a housemade sausage roll after a morning surf at Newcastle Beach, thanks to Southy Canteen, which is open from 6am.
Bring your furry travel companion to Sunnyboy Kiosk for a piccolo and puppuccino with views out to Dixon Park Beach. Try light eats, like acai bowls, or more substantial meals like nasi goreng at Blue Door in Merewether. Do a few lazy laps at Merewether Ocean Baths (the largest in the southern hemisphere) before tucking into swordfish skewers and salad at Merewether Surfhouse.
You can also watch the ocean compose a bit of magic from your perch at The Kiosk Newcastle Beach, where a matcha latte looks even better with the beach fresco.
Pause between eats to take in the iconic Newcastle Ocean Baths and Bogey Hole – perfect for a digestive swim or scenic picnic spot.
4. Hatted restaurants in Newcastle
Flotilla serves up delicious meals. (Image: Destination NSW)
In recent years, Newcastle’s restaurant scene has evolved to include venues that have elevated the city’s reputation for culinary excellence. In addition to its cafes and kiosks, there’s now an exciting wave of hatted favourites putting Newcastle on the map.
Humbug is the epitome of Novocastrian dining; the mafaldine with brisket and beef cheek braised in Pedro Ximenez is emblematic of what the owners aim for here. Flotilla neatly knits the Newcastle wining and dining scene together, with young gun Josh Thurston showcasing the art of cooking proteins and produce over fire.
Bistro Penny is another sophisticated, hatted dining destination in Newcastle. Order the barbecued king prawns swimming in a saffron broth and the oxheart tomato salad.
5. Newcastle nightlife
Stop by Bartholomew’s for a drink. (Image: Destination NSW)
As the sun dips in the west, so the city of Newcastle’s nightlife springs to life. Maru Hi-Fi is the next-gen small bar that’s redefining a night out in Newy – the sleek space serves great cocktails and embraces Newcastle’s alt attitude. Next door, Jams Karaoke & Bar is also bringing the vibes.
