The quirky outback delights of The Kidman Way

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There are possibly no two terms that are more emblematic of the Australian outback than heading at the ‘back o’ Bourke’ or going past the Black Stump.

Both of these have become colloquial shorthand for the remoteness and otherworldly allure of the outback experience as a whole and can be found on one majestic roadtrip through the heart of New South Wales.

The Kidman Way cuts a swath through central NSW from Jerilderie in the south to Bourke in the north and hides some rather fascinating offbeat and quintessentially outback towns. Here is our guide to finding the best on one of the state’s best road trips.

Murrumbidgee & Surrounds

Griffith & Surrounds

Carrathool & Surrounds

Cobar & Surrounds

Bourke & Surrounds

Sunset orchard in Griffith
Sun sets over a local orchard in Griffith. (Image: Destination NSW)

The 644-kilometre Kidman Way was named for pastoralist Sir Sidney Kidman, who in 1899 founded S. Kidman & Co, which would eventually become one of the world’s largest pastoral companies with land holdings estimated at anywhere between 220,000 kilometres square and 280,000 kilometres square – roughly the size of the entire United Kingdom, give or take – and long nurtured a vision for opening up the country’s vast inland.

The Paddle Vessel Jandra, Bourke
Jump onboard The Paddle Vessel Jandra and cruise down the Darling River in Bourke. (Image: Destination NSW)

Largely devoid of the ‘enterprise traffic’ of large trucks that clog many of Australia’s bitumen arteries, the Kidman Way is recognised as one of the country’s great outback drives.

Taking in the shires of Murrumbidgee, Griffith, Carrathool, Cobar and Bourke, the journey from one end to the other is best approached at a leisurely pace (plan on it taking at least five days), all the better to allow for ample time to appreciate the fascinating, quirky and largely undiscovered elements along the way.

Limone Dining, Griffith
Stop off at Griffith’s Limone Dining for a delicious feast. (Image: Destination NSW)

Murrumbidgee & Surrounds

Quirky fact: Coleambally is the youngest town in New South Wales, having been founded in June 1968, and getting its very own post office on April 1, 1970.

 

The passion project of the Altin family, Altina Wildlife Park is a Nationally Accredited Exotic and Native Animal Breeding Facility dedicated to bringing endangered animals back from the brink of extinction. Set out across 207 hectares of land on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River, the inhabitants here include everything from African crested porcupine to cheetah to red pandas to African lions, with plans for glamping and an expanded visitors centre well on their way. The personalised (and passionate) tour of the park on a horse-drawn carriage with staff leaves you in more awe of the ambition and work of this underappreciated Aussie gem.

Altina Wildlife Park, Altina
Altina Wildlife Park is dedicated to bringing endangered animals back from the brink of extinction.

Jerilderie holds the distinction of being the only town in New South Wales raided by Ned Kelly in 1879 when, over a three-day stretch, he robbed the bank of more than £2000, locked the local police in their own cells, and held more than 30 hostages while shouting the bar at the Royal Mail Hotel, among other things. You can walk in Kelly’s shoes by taking the self-guided Ned Kelly Raid Trail around the town, beginning at the Post and Telegraph Office and taking in 16 sites around town.

Ned Kelly Raid Trail, Jerilderie
You can walk in Kelly’s shoes by taking the self-guided Ned Kelly Raid Trail around the town.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Griffith & Surrounds

Quirky fact: Griffith’s City Park is home to the tallest climbing frame in the Southern Hemisphere (as well as a double flying fox and water splash park).

 

Water is the lifeblood of Griffith. John Oxley, an explorer back in 1817 dismissed the Griffith region as being ‘uninhabitable and useless to civilised man’. The Murrumbidgee Irrigation scheme was established in 1912 following construction of the Burrinjuck Dam, Berembed Weir and 139 kilometres of irrigation canals. This enabled Griffith to become a thriving oasis and the food bowl of Australia.

Life in Griffith revolves around food and wine. The town holds many festivals throughout the year showcasing the fruits of their labour. One of the quirkiest displays is the annual citrus sculptures during Spring Fest where more than 100,000 oranges and rubber bands are used to make these amazing works of art.

The annual citrus sculptures, Griffith
More than 100,000 oranges and rubber bands are used to make these amazing works of art. (Image: Andrew Mclean)

Griffith is one of Australia’s most vibrant cosmopolitan centres. With a population over 26,000, Griffith exudes a rich blend of culture and traditions, today more than 70 nationalities make up its cultural tapestry which includes Italian, Indian, Afghani and Pacific communities. Your tastebuds can travel the world, no passport required all whilst in the main street of Griffith. You can’t leave without enjoying a ‘rocket toppa’ pizza, a bowl of gnocchi and a cannoli. Leaving hungry is never an option.

Zecca restaurant, Griffith
Your tastebuds can travel the world, no passport required all whilst in the main street of Griffith. (Image: Karly Sivewright)

Carrathool & Surrounds

Quirky fact: The Black Stump Hotel in Merriwagga has the tallest bar in the Southern Hemisphere; in a precursor to the traditional drive through, the bar here was a ride through, said to be built so that local stockmen could ride their horses up to the bar and order a drink without dismounting.

 

Part outdoor gallery, part junkyard, Wally’s Junk Art Gallery at Rankins Springs, 75 kilometres from Griffith, is the domain of local artist Raymond Lamont, known to all as Wally.

His totally unique sculptures, everything from animals and airplanes to life-sized people, are created using all manner of vintage bits and pieces, from tractor and machinery parts to old railway plates to disused gas bottles and light bulbs. There’s a $6.50 entry fee, but you get a cup of coffee and a chat with Wally for free!

 

Situated in a valley of the Cocoparra Ranges in Rankins Springs, Selby is a 3000 hectares-plus certified-organic farm owned by Ron and Andrea Finch, located near Rankins Springs.

You can stay the night in The Shack, the renovated shearers’ quarters, arriving to home-baked goodies (courtesy of Andrea) and feasting on a breakfast that includes farm fresh eggs (when the resident hens oblige). Spend your days walking, relaxing and feeding the sheep, and at night gaze at the sky to your heart’s content.

Mustering sheep at sunset, Carathool
Mustering sheep at sunset. (Image: G Rixon)

Cobar & Surrounds

Quirky fact: There are 99 countries in the world that are smaller than Cobar (total land size 45,609 kilometres square) including Switzerland, Denmark and Lebanon. Perhaps fittingly, Cobar also has its very own currency, the Cobar Quid, a minted medallion that can be exchanged for goods and services at participating local businesses to encourage residents to shop local.

Cobar sign, Cobar
Cobar also has its very own currency, the Cobar Quid.

Held in Cobar every April, the Grey Mardi Gras celebrate everything 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, with live music, fashion, food and entertainment. The roster of events includes a buffet dinner dance, picnic concert, markets, Sunday fun day and, of course, a parade. Dressing up is strongly recommended.

Grey Mardi Gras, Cobar
The Grey Mardi Gras celebrate everything 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, with live music, fashion, food and entertainment.

In its heyday, the Great Cobar Copper Mine was processing ore at a staggering rate of 1000 tons per day, employed 2000 people and provided lighting for the whole town via its electric generators. There’s a museum to visit at the now retired site, and you can see the main mine shaft nearby (now fenced off) which plunges down to 430 metres.

Great Cobar Copper Mine, Cobar
The Great Cobar Copper Mine at sunset.

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Bourke & Surrounds

Quirky fact: It was the Scottish/Australian poet Will Ogilvie, a contemporary of Banjo Paterson and Henry Lawson (and friend of Harry ‘Breaker’ Morant), who coined the now iconic term ‘back o’ Bourke’ in his poem, At the back o’ Bourke.

 

The grave of the bushranger Midnight, who was shot and killed on 2 October 1878, can be found to the west of the village of Enngonia. Midnight, also known as Thomas/Alexander Law, George Gibson and Henry Wilson, was responsible for the murder of Senior Sergeant Thomas Wallings, a father of eight children, who was shot while attempting to capture the bushranger after his escape from Parramatta Gaol.

Aerial view over Bourke
An aerial view over Bourke.

But this wasn’t the first shoot out to take place in Enngonia; on October 6, 1868 the notorious bushranger Captain Starlight (real name Frank Pearson) was involved in a gun fight at the Shearer’s Inn during which he shot Constable John McCabe after the trooper confronted him and fellow bushranger Charles Rutherford.

The officer died almost a month later from his injuries, and Pearson was found hiding in cave in December; the details of this story (and many more) are recounted at the interactive Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre.

Back-O-Bourke-gallery, Bourke
The details of this story (and many more) are recounted at the interactive Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre.

Get out of the car and stretch your legs at Gundabooka National Park. The headliner here is the Mulgowan (Yappa) Aboriginal Art site walking track, with stunning rock paintings by the local Ngemba and Paakandji people depicting animals, dancers, hand stencils and hunting tools.

Having conquered the track, spend a little extra time to check out the nearby Gundabooka Range and Mulareenya Creek, where traditional ceremonies were once held.

It’s not an Aussie drive worth writing about if there isn’t something ‘big’ to wonder at along the way.

Given its reputation as a top quality yabby fishing spot, it was only a matter for time before a giant version of the crustacean cropped up on the landscape, specifically on the Warrego River at Fords Bridge.

Stop for a photo and then grab lunch at the nearby Warrego Hotel, built in 1913 from mud brick, the only pub of its type thought to be still standing.

Catania Fruit Salad Farm, Griffith
Driving through Catania Fruit Salad Farm, near Griffith. (Image: Destination NSW)
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9 of the best Sydney hotel bars for a local adventure during Vivid

(Credit: Nikki To)

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
    A great night out doesn’t need a road trip, just the right bar. Swap the long drive for an evening at these standout Sydney venues.

    If you’re thinking of a staycation or a long weekend (with foodie benefits), you can’t get much better than the bright lights and beautiful vistas of Sydney. From tucked-away bars to late-night hidden hangs, Australia’s (unofficial) favourite city is packed full of venues that make staying local feel like an adventure.

    And with Vivid lighting up the sky this winter, there’s no better time to find the perfect cosy spot to enjoy the views or escape the crowds.

    1. El Vista, Circular Quay

    bar tender at El Vista, Circular Quay sydney hotel bars
    Enjoy tasty cocktails and gorgeous Sydney views. (Credit: Mario Francisco)

    This welcoming bar by the Maybe Sammy team offers a fun buzz and jaw-dropping harbour views. Part of the Pullman Quay Grand Sydney Harbour, this lounge bar sits above Circular Quay with the harbour on one side and the Botanical Gardens on the other. You may start here for pre-dinner drinks, but you won’t want to leave before the early hours. If the 1960s Acapulco vibe isn’t enough, the views will be – the Sydney Harbour Bridge is so close it hardly fits in the window, while ferries glide by all night.

    2. Bar Allora, CBD

    Bar Allora, CBD Sydney hotel bars
    Settle in for a taste of Italy.

    Inspired by Milan in the 1980s, Bar Allora brings Italian style and culture to the CBD. Although it’s officially part of the Mantra 2 Bond Street hotel, it’s designed to look and feel like you’ve travelled to Italy for all-day dining. Think espresso in the morning, aperitivo in the afternoon and Negronis late into the night. Accompany your liquid diet with Italian-style small plates and pastas with a modern twist.

    3. Percy, Pyrmont

    Percy Sydney hotel bars
    Spanish-style tapas and wine is the name of the game. (Credit: Steven Woodburn)

    Taking centre stage in the luxe foyer of the Woolstore 1888 Hotel in Pyrmont, Percy is a popular Spanish-style tapas and wine bar serving food that makes you want to linger. The restored 138-year-old wool store creates an atmospheric backdrop to your glass of merlot with exposed timber beams, brick and the echoes of Sydney’s past. With an air of Barcelona, expect low conversations, creative dining and the city moments away.

    4. The Crudo Bar at Flaminia, CBD

    The Crudo Bar at Flaminia, CBD Sydney hotel bars
    Seafood lovers should head to The Crudo Bar. (Credit: Nikki To)

    Grab a seat at the beautifully designed crudo bar, taking centre stage of Giovanni Pilu’s latest CBD restaurant, Flaminia. Enjoy a glass of chilled Vermentino from Sardinia or prosecco from the hills of Treviso, matched with freshly shucked oysters. Complement your seafood with a range of special dressings, influenced by iconic Italian port cities. It’s the perfect spot for a pre- or post- glass of wine before visiting the Sydney Opera House.

    5. Mee So, Sydney Central

    Mee So sydney
    Enjoy Japanese-influenced food and drinks.

    For something a little different, Mee So is a modern, neon-lit Japanese-influenced bar in the Ibis Sydney Central. Serving bold flavours and umami-heavy dishes alongside sake and yuzu-infused cocktails, this Tokyo-esque venue offers an escape from the busy streets outside. Order steaming ramen, a Japanese whisky and make a corner of Mee So yours for the night.

    6. Bar Morris, Haymarket

    Bar Morris sydney
    Settle into old-world European glamour.

    Housed in a 1929 heritage-listed building, Bar Morris brings old-world European glamour to the Hotel Morris Sydney, part of Accor’s Handwritten Collection. More of a destination than a pitstop, this bar leans into its Art Deco past with velvet features, intimate lighting and bold brass finishes. Here you can order smaller plates like burrata, cured meats, and seasonal seafood to match your martini.

    7. Pumphouse, Darling Harbour

    Pumphouse sydney
    Enjoy a tipple inside a building from the 1880s.

    When you first walk into Pumphouse, you’ll quickly notice the high ceilings, exposed brick and industrial style decor. Officially part of the busy Novotel Darling Square, this busy local hang doesn’t feel like it; it’s housed inside a former hydraulic pumping station from the 1880s – hence the name – and a local institution. Grab a seat if you can and order off the classic modern Australian menu, before trying one of the many craft beers on tap to wash it down.

    8. Wentworth Bar, CBD

    Wentworth Bar sydney hotel bars
    Drink where the celebrities once did.

    Designed for big groups and late-night cocktails, this open-air terrace bar is part of the Sydney Sofitel Wentworth – one of Sydney’s most iconic hotels. Once the watering hole of royals and celebrities, this mid-century building has recently been refurbished to be sleek, modern and inviting. The stunning rooftop bar attracts Sydneysiders who love to watch the sunset with a table full of Vietnamese and French-inspired dishes.

    9. Monica Rooftop Bar, Paddington

    Monica Rooftop Bar, Paddington sydney
    See the city skyline, drink in hand.

    Sitting pretty on top of a restored 110-year-old theatre, Monica is a Hollywood-style rooftop bar with views across Paddington and the city skyline. Part of the 25hrs The Olympia hotel, this isn’t a quick drink kind of place, it’s a ‘let’s stay all night’ kind of venue. Weekend DJs will take you from sunset to late-night conversations, while you graze on ceviche, grilled meats or sharing plates.

    For more information on how to enjoy Sydney for a long weekend, visit ALL.com.