The perfect Snowy Mountains road trip itinerary

You don’t need sugar on top to enjoy the sweet surrounds. The hidden villages and fantastic local produce make for the perfect Snowy Valleys Way road trip, writes Patrick Higgins. Photography by Elise Hassey

For a few months each year the Snowy Valley’s region of Australia, home to our most popular ski resorts and highest peaks, has to punch an extra notch in its belt to accommodate the bulge in population.

But as the dusting of white melts from peaks and the crowds swap snow boots for boardshorts and bikinis, what’s left could tempt even the most bronzed beach bum away from golden sands.

Rolling mountains of green, itching to be hiked and biked, are laced with streams and rivers filled to breaking point with meltwater and fish to lure keen anglers.

With an abundance of fresh produce ready for rumbling bellies, it’s time to buckle up for a journey to the Snowy Mountains… without the snow. Or the crowds.

Cosy room Moonbah Huts. (photo: Elise Hassey)

Day 1 – an afternoon in the orchards

From any city in Australia you can fly direct to the Snowy Mountains Airport, but for the full road-trip experience fly into Wagga Wagga (so nice they named it twice) and make your way down and around via two or four wheels to Gundagai, Batlow and Tumut.

With the mercury rising, melted snow has stuffed nature with goodness and the results are obvious as you head south to Batlow, taking in orchards of apple trees, stone fruits, berries and cherries. Via Batlow Road you’ll stumble across cute farmgate stores such as Mouat’s Farm and Wilgro Orchards with plump produce picked for your pleasure on display along with jams and preserves.

Apple picking kicks off in late February, and from December until early January you can pick your own cherries and berries, though the majority will find their way to mouths rather than back to the car. Batlow is also home to the famous Batlow Cider and Big Apple (no Aussie road trip is complete without a sighting of one of our many ‘big things’).

Stained fingers will steer you further down the road to Laurel Hill and the strikingly beautiful Sugar Pine Walk, which has become a very popular destination for couples to exchange rings.

Feel completely enchanted as you walk the 400-metre stretch across a bed of fallen pine needles through the natural cathedral of Native American Sugar Pine.

Planted in 1928, the grand pines have since grown in height and popularity, making this little turn-off before heading into Tumbarumba a must-see.

Fantastical landscape Tumut — Fantastical landscape just outside of Tumut. (Photo: Elise Hassey)

If you’re after a different perspective and a chance to break up the drive, book a scenic flight with a True North Heli Tours. Meet at Tumut Heliport for a Country Escape tour that includes a scenic flight through the the Snowy Valley and into Tumbarumba wineries for a wine tasting and three course lunch. The tour will end where it began, so you can jump back in the car and continue on the road.

If you’d rather skip the helicopter flight and continue on the road, stop in at Tumut River Brewing Co for a brewery tour and a bite to eat.

Day 2 – A flick and a pizza in Tumbarumba

You’ll need to fuel up for another day of wandering and, while in Tumbarumba, the pick of the litter is Nest Cafe and Cinema on Winton Street. This gem is straight out of a fairytale with book-lined shelves to ponder as you overindulge in blueberry pancakes with ice-cream and a side of coffee.

Owner Laura Fraumeni has also converted the back room into a cinema with Friday and Saturday evening flicks accompanied by a tempting pizza selection, the Original White is a favourite with crisp rosemary potatoes, prosciutto, parmesan and pesto.

From here roll the rubber round the bend for a short 10-minute drive to Courabyra Wines on Courabyra Road where brother-and-sister duo Cathy Gairn and Stephen Morrison have been blending together some mighty fine vino that even Sydney’s acclaimed restaurant Tetsuya’s has taken a liking to.

They offer private tours of the sub-alpine vineyard for scenery soaking and an insight into the region’s history finished off with a glass of bubbles on the balcony.

One winery just not enough? Johansen Wines should also be on your pit stop list.

It’s hard to leave such dolce vita, but the next leg of the trip is worth it – the landscapes that continuously unfold before you as you traverse along Tooma Road and then onto the Alpine Way towards Jindabyne are nothing short of spectacular.

The area is perhaps even more stunning without the snow-covered peaks, as buxom hills of varying shades of green force drivers to the roadside, smartphones in hand. Google maps estimates a three-hour drive, but allow for extra photo-taking time.

idyllic lake setting of Moonbah Huts — The idyllic setting of Moonbah Huts. (Photo: Elise Hassey)

Day 3 – your very own alpine hut

Moonbah Huts owner Brett Smith has taken the term ‘handmade’ to another level with his stunning cottages nestled neatly on the outskirts of Jindabyne.

The two stone huts, located on the banks of the Moonbah River, were built by Brett over a 10-year period from rocks pulled from the mountains that dwarf these idyllic dwellings.

Both huts sleep four and have an open fireplace perfect for post Mt Kosciuszko-climb tea-sipping, or the balcony rocking chair might take your fancy. Brett also caters for the keen angler with fly-fishing lessons in prime rainbow trout territory.

With the Kosciuszko National Park ready for wandering, head out of Jindabyne and follow the signs to Thredbo where the main chair lift stays open during the warmer months to take explorers and keen mountain bikers up to Australia’s highest peak at 2228 metres above sea level. Fingers crossed the weather is kind as cloud cover can sometimes spoil the breathtaking view out over the national park.

Heading back, make sure you pull into the Wild Brumby distillery just off Alpine Way to sample some of Brad and Monika Spalding’s schnapps range that will help wash down the veal schnitzel or bratwurst you’ve just inhaled.

They also do daily tastings and bottles are on hand for you to fill the car boot before you leave.

Period features at Yarrangobilly Caves House. (Photo: Elise Hassey)

Day 4 – breakfasting in Jindabyne

Today you only need three words: Parc baked beans. This dish will have you nose deep in porcelain and asking for seconds as the crispy chorizo and poached eggs fuel a weary traveller’s appetite.

Parc cafe in the heart of Jindabyne is a must-stop for breaky before any activity, as the coffee holds a candle to Sydney and Melbourne cafes while dishes will leave you with a satisfied grin. For the sweet tooth, the waffles are worth a dig.

To keep your sugar-high going head out to Leesville Estate and the Snowy Mountain Cookies factory to be greeted by the infectious smile of owner Nolen Oayda and the aroma of fresh-baked cookies. The factory is a window into the growing company’s production and fills local kids with anticipation come school holidays.

A trip into Jindabyne wouldn’t be complete without a quick stop into the Banjo Paterson Inn for a schooner (or two, if you’re not driving) of Kosciuszko Pale Ale. ‘Koszy’ as it’s affectionately known around these parts, is micro-brewed on site by Chuck Hahn, of the famous Hahn brewing name, and close friend and business partner Richard Burton.

The taps at the inn are fed directly from the stills below – on display through glass windows – with frothy pours ready for patrons to rehydrate.

Vines and fresh Batlow apples at Courabyra Wines — Fresh Batlow apples in the orchard at Batlow. (photo: Elise Hassey)

Day 5 – caverns and wild horses

The Snowy Mountains Highway will lead you north out of town and towards the Yarrangobilly Caves. Much like the trek into Jindabyne, the scenery that accompanies you on your journey north is worth taking a little extra time to savour.

The five hauntingly beautiful caves that make up the Yarrangobilly network are getting a little long in the tooth – 440-million years long. The limestone caverns are decorated with stalagmites and stalactites and can be explored on a daily tour.

You should also take yourself on a self-guided tour of the river walk to experience the thermal pool, which is naturally warmed to a balmy 27°C from an underground hot spring. Stroll along the tranquil riverbank before taking in the gaping South Glory cave – the largest of the five.

As you drive out of Yarrangobilly Caves Road and back onto Snowy Mountains Highway, make a detour onto Long Plain Road a few hundred metres north on your right-hand side – this dusty track leads into wild Brumby territory, so drive with caution and keep an eye out for piles of manure as you creep along hoping to glimpse the majestic creatures.

The Swiss-like countryside greets you as you make your way towards Tumut, taking in the grand rivers and sweeping bends. Fond memories linger of the past few days, and you’ll realise that the Snowy Mountains, without snow, are truly captivating.

Kosciuszko Brewing Company micro brewery Banjo Paterson Inn — The Kosciuszko Brewing Company micro brewery at Banjo Paterson Inn. (Photo: Elise Hassey)

The details: Snowy Mountains

Get there: Rex and Qantas fly to Wagga Wagga daily. Avis, Budget and Country Car Hire are available at the airport; you’ll need at least five days to take in the same path, but a few extra days will allow for time to savour it all.

Stay there: You’ll find a range of deals at visitnsw.com and links to accommodation. Rates range from $195–$350 per night for the Lake Hut and $295–$495 per night for the River Hut at Moonbah Huts depending on the season and the number of guests. Creel Lodge in Jindabyne and Yarrangobilly Caves House are two other great options, which are available to book through nationalparks.nsw.gov.au with prices on application.

Play there: The snow season ends around September, but has been know to filter into October on rare occasions – the picking seasons operate December through until May. Mouat Farm and Wilgro Orchards are great places to stop and fill your basket with goodies.

Stop at Nest cafe for the blueberry pancakes alone. (Photo: Elise Hassey)

From serene natural beauty to vibrant nightlife, with plenty of arts and culture in between, the NSW Central Coast has been enjoying a serious glow up.

Just one hour from Sydney, the Central Coast has long been the perfect seaside getaway. And with its ECO Destination certification with a focus on sustainability, it’s a trip travellers can feel good about, too. Recently, new and exciting openings have turned the Central Coast into a place where incredible natural beauty is still on the table, but so is a vibrant and sophisticated arts, dining and nightlife scene.

Find out what’s new to discover on the Central Coast.

1. Gosford’s glow up

room at voco gosford — Book into voco and experience the best of Gosford.

Long-time Central Coast lovers will hardly recognise Gosford these days. While always boasting gorgeous water views, a range of revamps and new openings have turned it into a busy hub of arts and culture, with an increasingly diverse and vibrant nightlife.

Landmark lifestyle hotel voco Gosford is the perfect home base for a Central Coast getaway. At this IHG hotel overlooking sparkling Brisbane Water, guests can spend sunny days soaking in the rooftop pool (or just sipping a cocktail beside it). When it comes to meals, you can enjoy multiple venues serving up everything from modern Australian fare to fine-dining Japanese.

Venture out to lay eyes on the Central Coast’s first permanent Moving Image Gallery (MIG) . Opened this year inside the Gosford Regional Gallery , the immersive space is a showcase of screen-based and digital art. While at the gallery, wander around the Edogawa Commemorative Garden, a traditional Japanese strolling garden complete with teahouse, koi pond and an ornamental bridge.

Meanwhile, the revamped Gosford Regional Library has even more than books to discover. Now, it’s one of the best in the southern hemisphere – find exhibitions, historical archives and community initiatives for all ages at this perfect family-friendly escape.

2. Newcomers to the dining scene

table full of food at Amarilla restaurant terrigal — Treat yourself to sundowners and snacks at Amarilla.

The Central Coast has long been the perfect destination for gourmands, with everything from casual eats to fine dining elevating the local offerings. And three new destinations have been added to the map.

Amarilla at The Haven in Terrigal is the perfect seaside venue for sundowners, with blissed-out beats providing the soundtrack. Book in for golden hour and choose bites from a Spanish tapas menu made for sharing. Do as the locals do and wash it all down with sangria – the Sunday Sangria Sessions have become a local institution.

Also in Terrigal, Little Miss has brought a premium Mediterranean menu to the waterfront. Try the wagyu tartare with Greek caviar or butter-poached lobster and tomato bisque, paired with inventive cocktails and a handpicked selection of Lebanese wines.

Over in Ettalong, Bar Toto is perfect for pre- or post-dinner drinks. This award-winning cocktail bar is known for its creative concoctions, along with craft beer, wine and antipasti platters to snack on. The interior sets the mood, with dim lighting and wooden furnishings.

3. New Central Coast experiences

winemaker at Firescreek Botanical Winery — Book an experience at Firescreek Botanical Winery.

It’s entirely possible (and recommended) to spend a Central Coast getaway relaxing on one of its many peaceful and pristine beaches. But for those who crave more, there’s a long list of options to keep you busy.

Pop into the iconic Australian Reptile Park to see the new Weigel Venom Centre, a state-of-the-art facility that’s home to over 200 of the country’s most venomous snakes.

Get out on the water with Sail Central Coast , which offers 20 years of expertise in yacht charters. Book the Sunset Sail & Dine yacht charter for a private afternoon cruising the waterways of Bouddi National Park and Brisbane Water, stopping at Anchor on Hardys for a two-course meal with a cocktail.

For something completely different, Firescreek Botanical Winery is now offering an Aboriginal Storytelling and Wine Tasting Experience. Learn about local cultures, stories and traditions from an Aboriginal Elder, then enjoy a botanical-inspired wine tasting led by a local winemaking expert.

4. Central Coast accommodation

view from a cottage at Noonaweena — Sleep in the hinterland at Noonaweena.

There’s simply too much to experience on the Central Coast to only stay for one day. Turn your trip into a relaxing getaway by the beach.

Allawah , a retreat on the banks of the Hawkesbury River, is accessible only by boat. This secluded two-bedroom cottage is the perfect place to unwind, allowing you to spend lazy days fishing, kayaking, paddling or unwinding with a book on your own private jetty.

In the Kulnura hinterland, Noonaweena features a range of accommodation styles, from a luxe glamping bell tent to cottages and a treetop suite. It’s a leader in green travel, with 10 years of certification from Eco Tourism Australia. Relax in the onsite wellness centre or get active on various courts and in the gym facilities.

To stay by the ocean at Toowoon Bay, book into Kim’s Beachside Resort . This adults-only property offers a luxury escape nestled within a sub-tropical rainforest. Along with 36 private timber bungalows, indulge in massages or reiki treatments at the dedicated spa, or stop by the cocktail bar and à la carte restaurant.

5. Shopping on the Central Coast

Umina’s Centred Ceramics central coast — Try your hand at Umina’s Centred Ceramics’ pottery courses.

For those after unique trinkets, handmade treasures and beautiful homewares, the Central Coast is a haven.

Markets on the Central Coast have a special flavour. Wander the Umina Beach Markets at twilight, where you’ll find small businesses from the local areas, and the Norah Head Ocean View Markets , where you can soak up good food, live music and artisan finds by the beach after sunset. ‘Tis the season for the Christmas twilight edition of the Avoca Beachside Markets, celebrating the season with pop-up bars, tasty treats and plenty of unique gift options from local artists and producers.

Galleria Ettalong has also added to the Central Coast’s recent makers and creators renaissance, wrapping cinemas, a dining precinct and over 40 boutique shops into one area.

Sign up for a pottery course at Umina’s Centred Ceramics , or peruse the shop for a range of one-of-a-kind pottery made on the premises for a special souvenir.

For more eclectic arts and homewares, pop into Blue Bird Collective Co . This marketplace supports over 35 small, local and handmade businesses, artists and creatives. Take the time to check out fashion, jewellery and homewares that won’t be found anywhere else.

Start planning your coastal getaway at lovecentralcoast.com .