Australia’s most interactive underwater playdate is hiding just 20 minutes off the NSW South Coast. Meet the hyper-curious seals of Barunguba Montague Island.
Two enormous, glossy eyes appear out of the blue.
For a moment, we study each other with mutual inquisivity, barely an arm’s length between us. Then, with a flick of its flippers, the seal pup rockets off into the gin-clear water, leaving a trail of bubbles in its wake.
Seconds later, he’s back. And he’s brought friends. Soon I’m caught in a whirlwind of sleek, whiskered bodies that twist, dart and loop around me with acrobatic grace, seemingly competing to see who can get closest to the awkward human in a wetsuit.
Snorkelling with seals in Narooma is a unique experience. (Credit: Destination NSW/Guy Williment)
This isn’t some far-flung wildlife encounter in the Galápagos Islands. It’s happening just nine kilometres (or 20 minutes by boat) off the town of Narooma on the far NSW South Coast.
Guided by the knowledgeable Underwater Safaris team, we’re snorkelling with seals at Barunguba Montague Island. The 1.4-kilometre-long nature reserve harbours an exceptional collection of wildlife, thanks to its unique proximity to the continental shelf and warm Eastern Australian Current. Notably, it’s home to two thriving colonies of Australian and New Zealand fur seals (including the only confirmed fur seal breeding colony in NSW), Australia’s largest little penguin breeding colony, more than 90 bird species, migrating humpback and Southern right whales in winter, dolphins and stingrays who relish the glassy visibility and sheltered kelp forests.
The pups are as curious of you as you are of them. (Credit: Eleanor Edström)
Hop on a guided snorkel tour with Underwater Safaris. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Witness seals in the water and on the rocks. (Credit: Destination NSW/Ben Kelly)
But it’s not just the numbers that make this place special – it’s the creatures’ charisma. You see, the fur seals of Barunguba Montague Island don’t just tolerate humans; they actively choose to interact.
“When you snorkel almost anywhere else in the world, the animals swim away from you," says Underwater Safaris owner Francois Van Zyl, who has been diving in Narooma for more than 15 years. “Here, it’s the opposite. We don’t touch them, but they swim right up to you. It’s pretty special."
Special might be underselling it.
Barunguba Montague Island is home to the only confirmed fur seal breeding colony in NSW. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Before we jump into the water, dive master and guide Odette Boland gives us a safety briefing and rundown of what to expect. “Thirty to forty seal pups have just been born – they’re around four months old and have only been in the water for a month or two."
One cheeky pup somersaults directly in front of my mask. Another glides past so close I can see every whisker. When we move to a second snorkel spot in deeper water, adult seals – more than I can count – chase each other in circles beneath us. The whole experience feels like being invited to the world’s most extraordinary underwater party.
Underwater Safaris is a family-owned tour business that operates eco-conscious snorkel and scuba diving tours year-round, except in winter, when they offer whale watching experiences. Raised in Cape Town and passionate about the ocean for as long as he can remember, Francois runs the company with his wife and two sons, who help skipper the charters.
Swimming with seals is a pure endorphin hit. (Credit: Getty/Philip Thurston)
Francois previously worked for NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service for more than seven years and has even lived on the island with his family, so he knows the land, surrounding sea and wildlife like the back of his hand. And while the island’s remarkable marine environment is part of his everyday life, he loves seeing the joy it brings visitors.
“The snorkel is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We get people from all around the world – some people who’ve never been in the ocean – and even take people out who can’t swim [floating noodles are supplied and waters are shallow]," affirms Odette. “No day is the same out there. It’s this insane experience that most people will never get to do again."
In the cooler months of the year, Barunguba Montague Island harbours more than 1000 fur seals – but most operators don’t run snorkel tours during this season due to the cold. In spring and summer, there are still plenty of the adorable creatures hanging about – between 200 and 800. Owing to its exceptional visibility of ten to forty metres, the island is one of the country’s premier diving destinations.
Barunguba Montague Island is rich in marine life. (Credit: Destination NSW/Tom Park)
Over the years, Underwater Safaris has worked with many local and national organisations for conservation and research purposes, including ORRCA, Sydney Institute of Marine Science and universities that send PhD students to the island. The company also runs educational Squid Squad snorkelling tours for kids and school groups, intent on preserving Narooma’s delicate marine ecosystems for years to come.
Beyond its wildlife, Barunguba Montague Island – which officially received a dual Aboriginal name from the NSW government in 2021 – has long held immense cultural significance to the Indigenous Yuin people. The Yuin people once travelled to the island on bark canoes for traditional ceremonies and food, as well as for men’s teaching. Today, public visitors can only access the island via authorised tours.
When it’s time to clamber back on the boat, unzip my wetsuit and head back to Narooma, I can’t wipe the grin off my face. Never have I experienced such an intimate and interactive wildlife encounter where the animals engage on their own terms. I’m certain this won’t be my last visit.
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Where is Narooma?
Narooma is tucked along the far NSW South Coast. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Narooma is a coastal town on the far NSW South Coast, around an hour south of Batemans Bay. By car, it takes five hours to reach from Sydney or three from Canberra.
Can you swim with seals in Narooma?
Absolutely! There are several tour operators in Narooma that run snorkel and scuba dive tours to Barunguba Montague Island, departing from Apex Park Boat Ramp in Narooma. Tours typically last half a day and include snorkel gear, wetsuits, in-water guides and boat access to the island. Beginner snorkellers are welcome. A three-hour snorkel with Underwater Safaris costs $175 per adult or $155 per child (15 and under).
Can you see seals in Narooma without snorkelling?
If snorkelling isn’t your thing, you’re in luck – visitors can also witness seals in Narooma from Seal Rocks, located along the breakwall where the Wagonga Inlet connects with the ocean. Here you’ll find plentiful adult seals sunbathing on the rocks and floating blissfully in the shallows just metres away.
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How long does it take to get to Montague Island from Narooma?
Reaching the island from Narooma takes around 20 minutes by boat. Members of the public are only permitted to visit the island by booking an organised tour through authorised companies such as Underwater Safaris.
When can you see seals in Narooma?
Seals are found year-round at Narooma’s Seal Rocks breakwall, as well as offshore on Barunguba Montague Island.
How many seals are on Montague Island?
Barunguba Montague Island is home to more than 1000 fur seals in the cooler months of the year, and between 200 and 800 in the summer months.
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Eleanor Edström is Australian Traveller’s Associate Editor. Previously a staff writer at Signature Luxury Travel & Style and Vacations & Travel magazines, she's a curious wordsmith with a penchant for conservation, adventure, the arts and design. She discovered her knack for storytelling much earlier, however – penning mermaid sagas in glitter ink at age seven. Proof that her spelling has since improved, she holds an honours degree in English and philosophy, and a French diploma from the University of Sydney. Off duty, you’ll find her pirouetting between Pilates and ballet classes, or testing her friends’ patience with increasingly obscure vocabulary.
Newcastle’s vibrant creativity is evident everywhere, from a thriving live arts scene to an ever-growing offering for gourmands. Those with a hunger for new and exciting experiences should put Newcastle on their radar.
When it comes to consuming the culture of a city, digesting it (in the literal sense) is an appropriate place to start. But it’s not just a world-class wining and dining scene that’s on the menu (not to mention all the new restaurants in Newcastle). Newcastle – just two hours north of Sydney – offers the perfect blend of arts, culture and culinary experiences that make it a prime destination for an extended escape. The city’s creative future looks even brighter with the reopening of the highly anticipated Newcastle Art Gallery on the horizon.
Newcastle offers the perfect coastal setting for the arts and delicious eats. (Image: City of Newcastle)
Given Newcastle’s compact size – many venues are within easy walking distance or a quick drive away – you can immerse yourself fully. From decadent patisseries to fine diners and casual coastal eats, here’s a fresh taste of Newcastle: where to eat, drink and soak up the coastal city’s good vibes.
1. Pastry cafes in Newcastle
Lean into Newcastle’s pastry renaissance at Crumb. (Image: Jemma Donkin)
Pastry is having a moment, with a quietly booming scene led by CRUMB, the brand-new pastry cafe in Lambton led by legendary Gareth Williams (of Covered in Crumbs, EXP) and Ben Richardson (Autumn Rooms). Gareth describes his style of food as ‘creative chaos’. Enjoy that abstract artisanal approach over a savoury chorizo, bechamel, cheddar and poppy pastry, or a layered mortadella and pesto mayo croissant sandwich.
Meanwhile, Leibe European Pastries, Pekárna, Union St Pastry and Praise Joe also have their own flair and loyal followings. While Liebe European Pastries is famed for layered German pastries such as Franzbrötchen, Pekárna’s signatures (like cardamom pastries) are tethered to Czech traditions.
Head a few blocks west to Wickham, where Union St Pastry is the pinnacle for lovers of European-style viennoiseries, such as croissants and Danishes. A getaway to Newcastle also looks pretty fabulous with a mega brownie or chicken little toastie from Praise Joe.
Life looks pretty peachy from a table at the breezy Mediterranean-inspired eatery Blanca, which would not be out of place in Mykonos – when it swooped into the Honeysuckle Precinct a few years ago, it caused heads to swivel. Say yasou to mezedes of crudo di mare and sheftalia and grilled Abrolhos Islands’ octopus.
One may also fantasise about being back in Europe – specifically the 10th arrondissement in Paris – at Frenchie, the oh-so-French bistro that offers Euro-chic elegance with an inventive Australian flair. Indulge in the Date Night set menu, available every Thursday.
Peregrin is another stand-out. Listen to the sound of the ocean from the rooftop terrace, and order a Summertime Sour during aperitivo hour. Followed by the yellowfin tuna with pickled cucumber and market fish. And brand new on the scene is Papalote – a joint venture from the incredibly talented owners of Humbug and Flotilla serving up tasty Mexican classics.
3. Casual coastal cafes and kiosks
Follow Newcastle’s coastline for stunning views and tasty eats. (Image: David Diehm)
What better way to soak in Newcastle’s legendary coastline and stunning beaches than by visiting its casual coastal eateries while on the Bathers Way?
Enjoy hot chips and scallops on the sand at Swell Kiosk Bar Beach. Or a housemade sausage roll after a morning surf at Newcastle Beach, thanks to Southy Canteen, which is open from 6am.
Bring your furry travel companion to Sunnyboy Kiosk for a piccolo and puppuccino with views out to Dixon Park Beach. Try light eats, like acai bowls, or more substantial meals like nasi goreng at Blue Door in Merewether. Do a few lazy laps at Merewether Ocean Baths (the largest in the southern hemisphere) before tucking into swordfish skewers and salad at Merewether Surfhouse.
You can also watch the ocean compose a bit of magic from your perch at The Kiosk Newcastle Beach, where a matcha latte looks even better with the beach fresco.
Pause between eats to take in the iconic Newcastle Ocean Baths and Bogey Hole – perfect for a digestive swim or scenic picnic spot.
4. Hatted restaurants in Newcastle
Flotilla serves up delicious meals. (Image: Destination NSW)
In recent years, Newcastle’s restaurant scene has evolved to include venues that have elevated the city’s reputation for culinary excellence. In addition to its cafes and kiosks, there’s now an exciting wave of hatted favourites putting Newcastle on the map.
Humbug is the epitome of Novocastrian dining; the mafaldine with brisket and beef cheek braised in Pedro Ximenez is emblematic of what the owners aim for here. Flotilla neatly knits the Newcastle wining and dining scene together, with young gun Josh Thurston showcasing the art of cooking proteins and produce over fire.
Bistro Penny is another sophisticated, hatted dining destination in Newcastle. Order the barbecued king prawns swimming in a saffron broth and the oxheart tomato salad.
5. Newcastle nightlife
Stop by Bartholomew’s for a drink. (Image: Destination NSW)
As the sun dips in the west, so the city of Newcastle’s nightlife springs to life. Maru Hi-Fi is the next-gen small bar that’s redefining a night out in Newy – the sleek space serves great cocktails and embraces Newcastle’s alt attitude. Next door, Jams Karaoke & Bar is also bringing the vibes.
