The ultimate Kakadu to Arnhem Land itinerary

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Delve deep into one of Australia’s most fascinating and remote regions on this epic road trip through Kakadu and Arnhem Land.  

Day one: Darwin to Jabiru

 It’s Australia’s northernmost capital city and has a reputation for a heady mix of Asian cuisine, outdoor markets and movies, and fascinating war history – quite simply, Darwin is a holiday in itself. But it’s also the gateway to the country’s largest national park, UNESCO World Heritage-listed Kakadu and Arnhem Land, probably Australia’s most undiscovered and underrated regions.

Leave the city sights for another trip, hire a 4WD from the airport and hit Arnhem Highway for Jabiru, 253 kilometres away. Call into Bowali Visitor Centre to get a lay of the land before checking into Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel (in the shape of a croc). Enjoy a well-deserved float in the pool after a big travel day.

Mercure Crocodile Hotel in Kakadu
The famous Mercure Crocodile Hotel in Kakadu

Day two: Ubirr

Rise early and lather up with sunscreen to explore Ubirr , an Aboriginal rock-art site that will impress the littlest of travellers. From the main car park, there’s an easy one-kilometre walking loop that leads visitors past galleries of ancient illustrations. If you’re travelling with kids, tell them to keep an eye out for the thylacine. Climb the steps to a natural lookout over Nadab floodplain and Arnhem Land; views run to the horizon over a lime landscape and you’d be hard-pressed not to be moved by the swathes of empty space. For a more in-depth experience, join a ranger-guided tour.

 

You should also check out Cahills Crossing, a popular spot for croc-watching at East Alligator River – be sure to stay clear of the water. Before returning to the hotel, swing past Foodland grocery store in Jabiru to stock up on basic snacks, such as trail mix and energy-boosting muesli bars.

Ancient rock drawings at Ubirr, Kakadu
Ancient rock drawings at Ubirr, Kakadu National Park.

Day three: Maguk Waterfall

Kakadu is famous for its waterfalls, which thunder during the wet (November to April) and mollify in the dry (May to October). The best time to see them is in winter, when you can hike to their base and enjoy refreshing dips. Today, check out of your Jabiru accommodation and hit the 4WD-only road to Maguk Waterfall , which leads to the trail head of a gentle two-kilometre (return) walk through monsoon forest.

 

The relatively easy access to the falls makes it one of the most popular Kakadu attractions, so set out early to enjoy a swim in the freshwater plunge pool before midday crowds arrive. Then it’s time to kick up orange dust on another 4WD-only road, this time to Gunlom campground , ahead of tomorrow’s adventure.

Girl relaxing at Barramundi Gorge (Maguk)
One of Kakadu’s lesser-known attractions, Maguk is a pristine natural waterfall and plunge pool at the base of steep gorge walls.

Day four: Gunlom Falls

The eerily beautiful pools atop Gunlom Falls are a highlight on any Kakadu itinerary. To reach the top, you’ll need to tackle a steep climb for about 30 minutes, so rise with the sun while the air is cool and the track empty. Once there, you’ll discover tiered pools of fresh, ink-like water that are oh-so-inviting. Snap a photo at the edge of the natural infinity pool for the ’gram before bobbing about in a BYO inflatable ring.

 

Back at the base of the escarpment, follow a path around to a large pool where you can enjoy another swim before returning to your campsite for a picnic lunch. In the afternoon, make your way to Cooinda Campground (there’s motel facilities too), about two hours’ drive away.

Gunlom Falls infinity pool
The natural infinity pool of Gunlom Falls with Kakadu stretching out before it.

Day five: Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and Yellow Water

 If you loved the rock art of Ubirr, you’ll also want to make time to visit Burrungkuy (Nourlangie ). The art here depicts the life of the Indigenous Bininj people and there are ranger-guided walks during the dry season. Another not-to-miss attraction is Ngurrungurrudjba (Yellow Water). If you visit in the dry, you can explore the floodplain via a 2.6-kilometre (return) walk to a boardwalk and viewing platform, where you’ll be able to spot saltwater crocodiles.

 

If you’d rather be on the water, join a Yellow Water Cruises’ sunset tour of Yellow Water Billabong and South Alligator River. The Indigenous-owned and operated trips give you plenty of time to admire Kakadu’s wildlife, including black-necked storks and tree snakes.

Days six to nine: East Arnhem Land

Take your adventure up a notch by heading into East Arnhem Land, one of the last truly remote areas of Australia. The best way to explore the Indigenous region is by joining a tour, such as a chartered fishing trip or cultural excursion, however it’s wise to give yourself a day to reach your accommodation (simple lodges, motels and campgrounds) and settle into Arnhem life. To enter the region, a permit from Northern Land Council is required; if you have a guide, ask if they can arrange one.

 

If you’d rather join a tour from Kakadu, our pick is Venture North Safaris’ 4-day Arnhem Land and Cobourg Peninsula Tour . It’s a round-trip from Jabiru and takes in popular Injalak Arts centre, the ruins of Victoria Settlement (a former British military outpost), turtle nesting areas and Cobourg wetlands. There are also , as well as fly-in/fly-out fishing charters if you’re keen to bag a barra.

 

If you have plenty of time or yearn to learn more, visit Arnhem Land during the annual Garma Festival, a celebration of Indigenous culture (the next one will be in July-August 2021). The festival is held at Gulkula, 30 minutes’ drive from Nhulunbuy; you’ll need prior approval to attend.

Dancing Garma Festival
Garma Festival, NT: Indigenous culture at is most vibrant and lively.

Day 10: West Arnhem

If it’s the Top End’s rock art that captivates you, head into West Arnhem for a close-up look at the galleries at Mt Borradaile, a sacred Aboriginal site. Accessible in both the wet and dry seasons, there is a huge collection of art here, including a depiction of the rainbow serpent. Davidson’s Arnhemland Safaris runs tours, along with a few other options, such as billabong sunset cruises and birdwatching. Overnight at the Davidson’s eco lodge.

Davidsons Eco Lodge
Stay overnight at the Davidson’s eco lodge.

Days 11 and 12: Bremer Island

Ditch the car and catch a 15-minute scenic flight from Gove Airport to Bremer Island for two nights at Banubanu Beach Retreat . The eco-friendly property runs primarily on solar power and offers travellers a back-to-basics hideaway, perfect for unwinding after the adventures of Kakadu. Fill your days chilling in your beachfront glamping tent, fishing for Spanish mackerel, mud crabbing with an Indigenous guide, and bird watching.

banubanu-beach-retreat
Banubanu Beach Retreat, Arnhem Land.

Day 13: Farewell the NT

Say goodbye to this beautiful part of Australia on a flight from Gove Airport back to Darwin and home. Or, better still, add on a few days in Darwin.

Jennifer Ennion
Jennifer Ennion is a freelance travel and ski journalist who loves encouraging people to spend more time outdoors. From snorkelling with belugas in sub-Arctic Canada to hiking the Himalayas, Jennifer is constantly searching for stories that inspire readers to push their boundaries.
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8 Northern Territory secrets the locals don’t want you to know

Summer transforms the Northern Territory into a lush paradise of colour and life, as a visit during the ‘low-season’ reveals secrets the locals willingly share.

Waterlilies bloom, floodplains are alive with birdlife, waterfalls are gushing, and everywhere the green is dazzling. Summer in the Top End and the Red Centre is a kaleidoscope of unexpected wonders that delight and surprise visitors. Of course, the locals know only too well that the Northern Territory low season is often the best time to see and experience this amazing part of Australia.

Here are some of the reasons why savvy travellers – avoiding the crowds – are discovering a new dimension to the Territory. Remember that you’ll need a Parks Pass to visit national parks.

1. Take a dip in the Florence Falls waterhole

Wander through savanna woodland and monsoon forest to discover the perfect place to cool off – the waterhole at the base of spectacular Florence Falls in the magnificent Litchfield National Park , just 90 minutes’ drive from Darwin. The falls flow year-round but are most spectacular during the summer. Camping is available nearby but bookings are essential and must be made online before you visit.

Surrounded by lush forest, a woman cools off in Florence Falls, just one of many incredible things to do in the Northern Territory.
Cool off beneath the cascading waters of Florence Falls. (Image: Joshua Griffin)

2. Wind down at Buley Rock Hole

Another popular local swimming spot in Litchfield National Park is Buley Rock Hole , open year-round. This is a great place to wind down after exploring everything the park has to offer, including towering termite mounds. Wade through the rock pools, soak up the scenic bush or just lie back and relax as the cool water rolls over you.

Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park
Let the cool water wash over you. (Image: Tourism Australia)

3. Tour the Tiwi Islands

The Tiwi Islands , a scenic 80km flight from Darwin across the narrow Clarence and Dundas Straits, reveal a different side to the Territory, with their own distinctive culture. Take a day tour with Tiwi by Design to visit Bathurst Island and learn about creation stories, the Mission days, World War II history and the islanders’ obsession with AFL!

Take a ‘behind-the-scenes’ tour of Tiwi Design’s screen-printing workshop and pick up a great souvenir in the form of art. Choose from contemporary or traditional Tiwi designs and a wide range of work including carvings, paintings, pottery, printmaking, bark paintings and tunga (bark baskets).

A creative moment shared inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing space.
Take a peek inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing studio. (Image: Tourism NT)

4. Dine in Darwin

Foodies are spoilt for choice in multi-cultural Darwin. Try Sri Lankan flavours at Ella by Minoli, where Masterchef contestant Minoli De Silva creates delectable dishes, or head to Charlie’s of Darwin for gin-tasting, cocktails and more. Bowls of fragrant laksa, excellent coffee, fresh vegetables and authentic crafts are all part of a weekend visit to Darwin’s Parap Markets , Rapid Creek Markets and the Nightcliff Markets .

Prefer to catch your own dinner? Book a Top End fishing charter to bag a barramundi – and from October register for the annual Million Dollar Fish competition. Hooking one of the tagged barra released each year in waterways across the Territory could win you up to $1 million.

A bowl of Laksa.
Eat your way through multicultural Darwin. (Image: Tourism NT)

5. Up close with Uluṟu

The magnificent monolith Uluṟu is even more magical when the summer rains fall. When it rains on The Rock, the locals come out to watch – consider yourself lucky if that happens when you visit. Waterfalls cascading off the sides of Uluṟu is a sight that relatively few tourists see.

There’s so much to do at Uluṟu, from guided walks to learn the stories of the Aṉangu people and the ancient landscape they live in to scenic flights for a bird’s-eye view or a leisurely walk around the base of Uluṟu. Book ahead to spend the evening wandering through the Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro.

A closer look at Uluru and uncover its ancient stories, sacred sites, and striking natural beauty – one of the most iconic things to do in the Northern Territory.
Discover the details that make Uluṟu truly sacred. (Image: Tourism NT)

6. Drive the Red Centre Way

From Alice Springs, take an epic road trip along the Red Centre Way, taking in Uluru and Watarrka National Park, home to the magnificent Kings Canyon. Allow at least a week to drive through the red heart of Australia by 4WD, a little longer on the sealed road by 2WD vehicle, travelling through ochre deserts, palm-lined valleys and dramatic gorges. Stop off at waterholes for a refreshing dip along the way.

Kings Canyon offers hiking options for all levels of fitness, from the three-hour Rim Walk atop soaring sandstone walls to the gentler Kings Creek Walk. Either way, you’ll have breathtaking views.

SEIT Outback Australia is a small group touring specialist offering exciting, adventurous, exclusive and specialised iconic, pioneering and cultural touring in the Red Centre of Australia, giving you the time to learn, absorb and relax in the heart of Australia.<br /><br />This innovative tour company focuses on providing clients with the ultimate interpretive touring experiences with a range of products and customised touring itineraries for small groups and bespoke private charters.<br /><br />The company bases its philosophies from the key words of Spirit, Emotion, Intellect and Task (SEIT).
Drive through Australia’s heart. (Image: Outback Australia Tours)

7. Take a walk at Kata Tjuṯa

Head out early to tackle the Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuṯa . This natural wonder, also known as The Olgas, is a labyrinth of soaring ochre domes that glow golden at sunrise and sunset (the walk may be closed during the middle of the day as temperatures rise).

Walking trails range from easy to longer, more difficult tracks. At the Kata Tjuṯa dune viewing area, take in the panoramic view of the domes. The longest of the trails is the Valley of the Winds Walk, a 7.4km circuit that winds between the domes and through creek beds. It’s moderately difficult and steep in places, but offers stunning views – and occasional encounters with kangaroos.

The Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuta is one of the most awe-inspiring things to do in the Northern Territory, especially at sunrise when the domes glow golden.
Step into the golden light of Kata Tjuṯa. (Image: Tourism NT)

8. Explore Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges

Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park lies 135km west of Alice Springs, with many fascinating natural features to beguile visitors. The ‘West Macs’ formations include chasms, gorges and waterholes – take your swimsuit for a dip at Ormiston Gorge waterhole, open year-round. The Ormiston Pound Walk is a three to four-hour circuit that leaves from the visitor centre and loops back along the gorge via the main waterhole. Other places of interest in the park include Simpsons Gap , Standley Chasm , Ellery Creek Big Hole and Glen Helen .

Soaking in the serenity of Ormiston Gorge, these two travellers enjoy one of the most scenic things to do in the Northern Territory.
Take the plunge at Ormiston Gorge waterhole. (Image: Joshua Griffin Litchfield)

Start planning the NT road trip of a lifetime at northernterritory.com