hero media

These balancing boulders are officially the NT’s best stargazing spot

Credit: Wild Australia Photography

Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) are now home to the Northern Territory’s darkest skies.

One of the Northern Territory’s most iconic natural landmarks, Karlu Karlu, also known as the Devils Marbles, has just been given an exciting accolade: it’s officially one of the best places to stargaze in Australia. Designated as an International Dark Sky Sanctuary by DarkSky International, a nonprofit organisation that works to preserve and protect the nighttime environment, this award recognises the exceptional quality of the night skies and commits to protecting them from the impact of artificial light.  

Crucially, the designation makes Karlu Karlu the first International Dark Sky Sanctuary in the NT and only the third in Australia, joining more than 270 designated Dark Sky Places around the world.

Why Karlu Karlu has been named a Dark Sky Sanctuary 

a stargazer wearing a headtorch and looking at the stars
Being named an International Dark Sky Sanctuary helps to protect Karlu Karlu from light pollution. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT, @domandjesso)

It only takes one look at the breathtaking expanse of stars over Karlu Karlu to understand the importance of protecting this view. 

However, achieving the designation was no mean feat. The year-long process, led by NT Parks and Wildlife, included six months of night-sky readings to measure darkness levels, as well as an audit of artificial lighting and an assessment of potential future threats to the night sky.

The new status will also help keep it that way. Any future development at Karlu Karlu will have to adhere to strict lighting guidelines designed to preserve its dark skies for generations to come.

The 1800-hectare reserve is also a place of immense cultural significance. Almost all of Karlu Karlu is a registered sacred site, significant to the Kaytetye, Warumungu, Warlpiri and Alyawarra Traditional Owners, whose ancestors have managed the area since creation time.

As part of its Dark Sky certification, new interpretive signage will also be developed at Karlu Karlu, providing visitors with more information about night-sky viewing and the importance of preserving dark skies.

How to experience Karlu Karlu after dark

Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) at night
Enjoy breathtaking views of the Milky Way. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT, @domandjesso)

Visitors are more than welcome to camp at Karlu Karlu as long as they’ve paid the fee online and picked up an NT Parks Visitor Pass. The area isn’t just for night owls, with the surrounding landscapes offering self-guided walking trails that make it ripe for a full day-to-night adventure.

The real show begins once the sun goes down. With no light pollution to compete with, campers can experience brilliant stars and breathtaking views of the Milky Way galaxy – a sight that’s becoming increasingly difficult to experience elsewhere.

The new Dark Sky designation should make it easier for visitors to get more from the experience, too. Interpretive signage will be developed at Karlu Karlu with information specifically focused on night-sky viewing and why preserving the area’s darkness is so important.

And if you’re planning particularly far ahead, mark 22 July 2028 in your calendar. Karlu Karlu will sit within the path of totality for the total solar eclipse, when the moon will completely obscure the sun over the reserve for almost five minutes. The Northern Territory will release more information on how to experience the eclipse closer to the event.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

The details

Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) at night
Karlu Karlu is the NT’s first International Dark Sky Sanctuary. (Credit: Wild Australia Photography)

Location: An hour south of Tennant Creek or 4.5 hours north of Alice Springs, directly off the Stuart Highway in Warumungu. 

Best for: Anyone looking to experience a glittering night sky free from light pollution, with views of the Milky Way galaxy that are becoming increasingly difficult to find. 

Good to know: Visitors are welcome to camp at Karlu Karlu and enjoy the stars all night long. Campsites are available to book online; an NT Parks Visitor Pass is also required. 

Cost: A one-day NT Parks Visitor Pass is $10 for adults, $5 for kids and $8 for concession, with more deals available for families. The camping fees are the same prices as the visitor pass, so for both it’s $20 for adults, $20 for kids and $16 for concession.

Want to see more stories from Australian Traveller in your Google search results?

  1. Click here to set Australian Traveller as a preferred source.
  2. Tick the box next to "Australian Traveller". That's it.
Jessica O'Donnell

Jessica O'Donnell

View profile and articles
hero media

Discovering East Arnhem: Australia’s most unique and rewarding corner

    Joanne Millares Joanne Millares

    Hard to reach and harder to forget, East Arnhem offers something rare in modern travel: the chance to slow down and experience Country on its own terms.

    The sky feels bigger in East Arnhem. It stretches wide and uninterrupted above rouged earth, stringybark woodland and beaches so empty they seem to belong to another era. The coastline curves for kilometres without a footprint and the horizon runs on forever.

    For comedian Lou Wall, the scale of the place was the first thing that hit them.

    “The sheer openness,” they say. “The sky feels infinite and the land stretches out endlessly. It’s pretty breathtaking visually.”

    But the physical landscape is only part of the story. The real reward isn’t only the scenery but the shift in perspective the journey brings. Visitors stop trying to tick off the destination and a real engagement takes over.

    “It made me never want to travel again,” Wall jokes. “In that I never wanted to leave East Arnhem.”

    Getting there

    Aerial shot of East Arnhem’s coastline as cars trace the curve of the shore.
    Sail along the remote coastline on an expedition cruise.

    Reaching East Arnhem is part of the adventure. Travellers typically fly into Gove Airport near Nhulunbuy via Darwin or Cairns, or arrive by expedition cruise along the remote coastline. Others make the journey overland along rutted dirt roads that cut through East Arnhem’s small pockets of monsoon forest.

    However you arrive, there’s a distinct feeling of crossing into somewhere different. Permits are required to visit the region, reflecting the fact that this is Yolŋu land where communities and traditional owners maintain deep cultural connections to Country.

    The extra planning becomes part of the experience. By the time visitors arrive, they understand they’re entering a place not just of respect, but also patience and curiosity.

    At one with nature

    East Arnhem’s  landscapes leave a strong imprint. For Wall, one place in particular still lingers in their memory: Ngalarrkpuy, also known as Lonely Beach, near Bawaka Homeland.

    “I genuinely felt like I was living inside an Instagram filter,” they say. “One of the most stunning feats of nature I’ve ever seen. The water was so clear I swear I could see even the fish smiling.”

    Across the region, natural experiences unfold at a slower pace. Fishing, beachcombing and island hopping reveal the rhythm of the coastline. The tides shape daily life and the vastness of the landscape makes even simple moments feel downright cinematic.

    For visitors with limited time, Wall says the Bawaka Homeland experience is unmissable.

    “I just left and I’m already planning when I can get back there.”

    The sense of remoteness is part of the appeal. In a country where many beaches are crowded and well-trodden, East Arnhem’s coastline still feels wonderfully wild.

    Immersing in local culture

    A visitor spends a meaningful moment alongside Yolŋu guides, gaining insight into their deep cultural knowledge and connection to the land.
    Experience authentic moments with the locals.

    Culture is woven through every experience in East Arnhem. Visitors have the opportunity to spend time on Country with Yolŋu guides and knowledge holders who share stories and traditions that have been passed down for generations.

    For Wall, one of the most powerful moments came during a conversation with a Yolŋu elder.

    “I got to meet a traditional elder, Mayalil, in Nhulunbuy,” they say. “Listening to her talk about her home made the land feel alive in ways I couldn’t have imagined.”

    The region is also home to internationally recognised Aboriginal art centres where artists shape works deeply connected to land and family knowledge.

    Music carries the same cultural energy. East Arnhem has produced globally recognised artists such as King Stingray and Baker Boy, blending Yolŋu language, storytelling and contemporary sound.

    Wall experienced this musical spirit first-hand.

    “A jam session around the fire was it for me,” they say. “Letting the deep joy and history of their music wash over me…  and meeting a few of the King Stingray musicians was unreal.”

    These moments of human connection often become the most memorable part of a visit.

    Spotting local wildlife

    An aerial view of the beach shows tiny figures lined up across the white sand, moving as if in a rhythmic dance.
    Step into a world where nature reigns.

    The wildlife of East Arnhem adds another layer to the experience. The region is home to an extraordinary range of animals, from waterbirds and turtles to dugongs, dolphins and the formidable saltwater crocodile.

    Wall admits they didn’t actually spot a croc during their visit.

    “Devastatingly, I didn’t see one,” they laugh. “But with all the stories from the locals I definitely gained a healthy respect for caution.”

    Some of the most memorable wildlife encounters can be surprisingly small., At Banubanu Beach Retreat on Bremer Island, Wall remembers walking along the beach one morning and watching it come alive.

    “As you walk through the sand you see hundreds of crabs scurrying into their holes as you pass by,” they say. “Such a small thing, but it was completely magical.”

    Moments like this reveal the quieter rhythms of East Arnhem, where even the smallest creatures seem to play a part in the landscape.

    Visitors who make the journey soon learn the most important travel tip of all.

    “Go in open-minded with a sense of curiosity,” Wall says. “Be prepared to ditch your plans. The land and the locals will guide you on an adventure no spreadsheets could ever compete with.”

    And most importantly, they add, don’t rush.

    “The land and people deserve your time and attention. You’ll be all the better for slowing down.”

    For more information on visiting East Arnhem, head to eastarnhem.com.au.