Explore the Jatbula Trail in Northern Territory's Nitmiluk National Park

How to explore the wildly beautiful outback in Northern Territory’s Nitmiluk National Park… one step at a time. Words by Cilla Cole.

It is perfect. Cascading waterfalls bubble over whirling spa pools, which spill into an infinity-edged rock pool. Pink lilies gather at the rim where a water dragon basks in the sun. The pool is deep and cool with fresh, sparkling water. And we have it all to ourselves.

We have arrived at Biddlecombe Cascades, the first campsite on our five-day walk along the Jatbula Trail in Northern Territory’s Nitmiluk National Park, and it feels so good to be here. Although it is only lunchtime and we are just 10 kilometres north of our starting point at Katherine Gorge, already everyday routines and the trappings of civilisation feel a long way away.

I watch my four children splash and dive exuberantly. While I take a moment to soak in the scenery, they have wasted no time jumping in. Kids can’t ever just swim. They slide down the cascades, leap from rock ledges, ride the current and shower under the pelting water.

“Be careful of the undertow!" I call out, futilely. They don’t stay above the water long enough to hear me.

Waterfall on the Jatbula Track, Northern Territory

Outback and water don’t always mix, but they do on the Northern Territory’s Jatbula Track.

The thunder of the cascades

“Watch this!" they shout over the thunder of the cascades, before all four duck dive under. Christopher, 15, re-emerges first, bare bottom leading. Apparently the force of the waterfall is strong enough to undress you.

One by one they pop back up, their heads bobbing in the bubbles. I count them: one, two, three… My eyes scan the surface: calmly at first but quickly accelerating to frantically.

“Where’s Julia?" I shout anxiously, “She hasn’t come up!"

I strain to peer into the churning depths at the base of the waterfall. No sign of her. Where is she? It’s been too long!

My heart pounding, I am about to dive in, boots and all, when I see it: a hand. It is poking through the curtain of cascading water, waving at me. The other hand appears, followed by a beaming face. My 13-year-old daughter hasn’t drowned. She is happily sitting on a rock ledge hidden behind the waterfall, cocooned in a cave of water and totally oblivious to my panic.

I take deep breaths to calm my heartbeat and smile with relief, not only because we still have the same number of children we started with; I am also relieved to see them having such a good time.

In the face of reluctance

When I had originally made the suggestion that we go on a 60-kilometre walk over five days in 35-degree heat, carrying all our food and equipment, our children weren’t exactly bursting with enthusiasm. In our household, as is common in many families, “walk" is a four letter word and seems to invoke instant lethargy.

I had first heard about the Jatbula Trail five years ago when our family had enjoyed a canoeing trip on the Katherine River with Gecko Canoeing and Trekking: a small, locally-based tour company. Named after Peter Jatbula, a Jawoyn elder instrumental in securing land rights for his people, the track follows a route travelled by generations of Jawoyn between Katherine Gorge (30 kilometres north-east of Katherine) and Leliyn (Edith) Falls.

Gecko had been guiding the then-little known trail since 2001 and their descriptions of walking through wilderness and sleeping under the stars next to a different, isolated waterhole each night captured my imagination.

“You’ll have to come back," Gecko’s owner, Mick Jerram had said, “when the kids are older".

Not yet well-trodden

Since then the trail has grown rapidly in popularity. Answering demand, the limit of daily permits issued has been increased from 10 to 15 and Gecko has been joined by World Expeditions in offering guided tours. I was keen to experience the Jatbula Trail before it became too well known; too well trodden.

And now the kids were older. But was the youngest, at eight, old enough (to be capable)? And was the oldest, at 15, too old (to be agreeable)?

“They’ll be fine," said Mick, in his typical ‘nothing’s-a-problem’ fashion. And, it appears, he was right.

I am not the only one relieved. The other members of our group are Johan and Elizabeth: fit, strong, experienced walkers who, being recent empty nesters, had looked aghast when first introduced to their young walking companions. They now join us at the rockpool and together we watch the boundless energy of the children who are apparently unfazed by the challenges of this morning. “You forget how resilient kids can be," Johan observes.

He is right. You do forget. I had also forgotten how unfit I was. I had been so concerned about how the children would cope; I hadn’t considered my own abilities. By lunchtime today I was red-faced, my legs ached and I was feeling every gram of those lunch wraps I was carrying.

Although, I have to admit that the Jatbula Trail is not a difficult walk. Traversing the Arnhem Land Plateau, the well-marked path is generally level with designated campgrounds and toilet facilities. The furthest we would walk in one day would be 16 kilometres and the longer days would be broken up by a refreshing lunchtime swim.

A destination in itself

“I call the Jatbula Trail a destination walk," explains our guide Matt Leigh. By this, he means it is not so much about navigating a challenging scenic track, but more about the end points: the ancient rock art amphitheatre and the spectacular (crocodile-free) waterfalls and swimming holes. We find this actually suits our group, allowing us to all walk at our own pace and allowing more time to enjoy the gorges each afternoon.

It would, in hindsight, be quite easy to walk the trail without a guide. We are glad, however, to have the company of Matt, a laidback carnivore from Queensland, who has been leading tours in Nitmiluk and Kakadu National Parks since he joined Gecko three years ago. Despite setting a bad example by admitting he hasn’t eaten fruit or vegetables since age four, when his mum gave up trying, Matt’s knowledge of the local flora and fauna, of bush medicine and Aboriginal culture, greatly enhances the journey and appeases our guilt of taking the children out of school.

And Matt is fit and strong and burdens the bulk of the load. His enormous pack is heavy with emergency supplies and equipment, which he carries tirelessly like a Nepalese sherpa, allowing us to travel comparatively lightly. The dependable clear skies of the dry season mean we need little in the way of clothes or shelter (we sleep under mosquito nets at night) and drinking water is abundant en-route.

“Something to eat? Something to cook with? Something to sleep on?" was Matt’s check list before departure. His relaxed nature is contagious and we take on the challenge of getting back to basics and enjoying the freedom that comes with it.

Not that our boys find this a challenge. They revel in the thought of not having to shower or change for five days. Instead, they ‘wash and wear’ under the waterfall. Matt shows us how to make soap from acacia seed pods and 12-year-old Fergus watches the lather form between his palms in astonishment.

“Why aren’t you coming in?" calls eight-year-old Claudia as she is swept past me, riding on a mini rapid. I dive in to join them. The water is cool and cleansing and I surface with a contented sigh. This may be a destination walk, but what a destination!

Claiming your own piece of wilderness

Over the next five days we visit so many beautiful destinations, we are unable to agree on a favourite. Christopher enjoys the bubbling spas of Biddlecombe, my husband Richard is partial to the many layers of Crystal Falls, Elizabeth takes ownership of the pool she discovers chasing her sock over 17 Mile Falls and I like the peaceful reflections of Sandy Camp Pool. Julia, of course, votes for the water cave.

Certainly there are plenty of impressive gorges and rock art galleries in more accessible sites of northern Australia. But like handmade gifts, we appreciate these all the more for the effort it has taken us to get to them. By the end of the five days we gain an affinity for this beautiful land and feel privileged that the Jawoyn people have shared it with us.

We have also gained a great sense of achievement and upon returning to Katherine pamper ourselves by booking into what is, for us, upmarket accommodation. Despite being 38 degrees, the kids turn their noses up at the large, free-form swimming pool. “It’s chlorine," they state dismissively, “and there are other people."

I had worried the children might struggle with the walking, the weight of their packs, the heat, the limited fresh food supplies and the discomfort of the primitive camping. I had not anticipated them becoming spoilt.

The details

Gecko Canoeing and Trekking tours start in Katherine early on the first day so you’ll need to stay the previous night. Gecko offers a range of options from a five-day guided walk departing Katherine, providing your own food and equipment, to a fully inclusive six-day package from Darwin, which includes all transfers, a cultural tour (recommended) and a gorge cruise, plus any combination in between.

World Expeditions have six-day fully-inclusive packages that depart from Darwin and begin the trail at lunchtime.

It is also possible to walk the trail unguided but you will need to apply for a permit. The trail starts from the Nitmiluk Visitors Centre at Katherine Gorge, 30 kilometres east of Katherine. From here you cross the gorge by ferry to the start of the trail. For permits and more information see parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au and nitmiluktours.com.au

When to go

The Jatbula Trail is generally only open during the dry season, from June to September.

Need to know

Strong hiking boots are recommended but other than a long-sleeved shirt, hat, and a spare pair of socks, you really don’t need to take much in the way of clothes. We found thongs handy for walking around the campground but don’t, as Claudia did, wear them for crossing rivers: you may end up with only one for the rest of the trail.

For more information on Northern Territory experiences visit northerterritory.com

Where ancient rock art meets Bvlgari soap. Australian Traveller magazine heads to Cicada Lodge: the outback’s newest high-end stay. Words by Alissa Jenkins, photography by Rebecca Taylor.

There’s something special about a place so remote, it’s yet to be named.

A special women’s area to the local Jawoyn people known as the ‘art site’.

In Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, just south of Kakadu in the Northern Territory’s Top End – an area that encompasses 3000 square kilometres – there are many of these.

Among them is a secluded swimming hole only known in the English language as ‘the art site’.

Nitmiluk Helicopters, Northern Territory

Flying above the Katherine River and her 13 gorges to a secret waterhole known as the ‘rock art site with Nitmiluk Helicopter, Northern Territory. (Photo: Nitmiluk Helicopters)

Accessible only via helicopter, this pristine pocket centres around a freshwater waterfall, surrounded by a gallery of ancient rock art, painted by the local Jawoyn people up to 30,000 years ago. Rust and chalk-coloured lines depict local delicacies like wallaby and cherabin, while figures of frizzy-haired women reveal something much more.

Stunning rock art, depicting nearby food sources, such as Wallaby, in the Nitmiluk National Park.

“We believe this was a place for women and these paintings were to warn initiated Jawoyn men that they had no business here,” explains Dave Paton, a personal pilot and guide to guests in the area.

“You’ve got to remember, Nitmiluk National Park is only a small part of Jawoyn Country, which also takes in part of Kakadu, the south-west corner of Arnhem Land, all the way down to Mataranka. That’s 50,000 square kilometres all up, larger than Denmark and Belgium combined,” he adds.

“The exciting thing is, we believe we’ve only found two per cent of art sites here in Jawoyn Country. There’s still a fair bit of country here that hasn’t had people come through for many, many years.”

This is just one of the surreal experiences available exclusively to guests at nearby Cicada Lodge (the other stunner being the Northern Rock Hole).

Northern Rock Hole, Nitmiluk National Park.

Opened in March 2013, it was a welcome high-end edition to the NT’s outback.

Unlike other luxury retreats – owned by widespread conglomerates – Cicada Lodge (and sister business Nitmiluk Tours) is wholly owned by the Jawoyn people, so the funds generated go back into the local community.

As a result, this isn’t your typical five-star stay where guests remain cooped up in remote-controlled comfort.

Of course you can, if you so wish, but the focus is on getting immersed in the environment and the culture. And given the lodge is tucked away on the Katherine River, 30 kilometres from Katherine’s town centre, it’d be a shame not to.

“The concept of sharing the Jawoyn culture is terribly important, and we’ve been very fortunate that this is a community that wants change, that wants to share their culture and to improve their future,” says Cicada’s marketing director, Clive Pollack.

“We’re not only working to preserve the Jawoyn culture, but we’re making it commercially viable in an evolving, new-age environment,” adds Tessa Pollack – anthropologist, training manager and, incidentally, Clive’s wife.

On the flipside, both Pollacks insist that the Cicada experience “all comes back to service”.

As soon as I walk into the main foyer, which still has that smell of newness, I’m greeted by smiling staff and a glass of G.H.Mumm.

Luggage is swiftly collected before I’m shown to my room, one of 18, and although it looks suspiciously similar to a corrugated-iron shed on stilts, there’s nothing rudimentary about it inside.

Bedroom Cicada Lodge, Northern Territory

A king-sized bed in every Cicada Lodge room.

Polished timber floors and artworks by local Indigenous artists frame an island king-sized bed, beside which chocolates and slippers mysteriously appear each evening. A banquet of Bvlgari amenities await in the ensuite bathroom, while a private balcony overlooks native greenery above the Katherine River.

“If you want crepes by the pool at 2:00am, we can do it. If you want to do a yoga class overlooking the river, we can do it,” adds Clive. “And we’re open year-round so if there are floods and guests can’t reach the lodge by car, we’ll send a helicopter to collect them, free of charge.”

Poolside at Cicada Lodge.

But make no mistake, despite the complimentary wi-fi and poolside appetisers each evening, this is the outback. One of the area’s better-known residents is Esmeralda, a two-metre olive python. Over the last few months she’s gained a reputation for repeatedly attempting to eat a Great Dane puppy belonging to Nitmiluk Tours’ river operations manager, Anthony McKie.

“Just about every night Esmeralda comes back and tries to swallow Bandit while he’s sleeping,” says Anthony. “I’ll come out and she’ll have his two front legs in her mouth!”

Poolside at Cicada Lodge.

Guests needn’t worry though; no harm is ever done – a Great Dane pup is far too big to swallow (and so are humans, just in case you were wondering).

Pythons aren’t the only local wildlife you can spot here. A family of agile wallabies have made themselves at home on the property, offering a free lawn-mowing service. They also make for cute breakfast-time entertainment.

Travellers also come here to see the crocs, and the best way to do this is on a Nabilil Dreaming Sunset cruise when the gorge is at its quietest (an inclusive experience for Cicada guests staying two or more nights). The cruise takes passengers through two of the 13 gorges that make up Nitmiluk Gorge, formerly known as Katherine Gorge.

A sunset cruise on the gorges of the Katherine River, Northern Territory (Photo : Nitmiluk Cruises)

“We get salt-water crocs in here during the wet season, when the waterways flood and open up,” says guide Jamie Brookes. “For the rest of the year it’s just freshies, but they won’t hurt you so long as you don’t step on one.”

Unfortunately, we spot neither salt nor fresh-water croc, but the scenery makes up for any disappointment.

As we drift along the khaki channel, jagged sandstone cliffs tower above, which could pass for an impressionist artwork at times; blobs of copper-coloured outcrops, mustard lichen and green native ferns. “The Jawoyn believe these gorges were formed in The Dreaming when Bolong, the giant rainbow serpent, slithered through the area,” says Jamie, as we reach a deep bend in the second gorge.

“It’s believed he still rests in this part, so pregnant Jawoyn women and new initiates aren’t allowed to swim here, in case they disturb him.”

Peregrine’s Dreaming Place tour takes in Katherine Gorge, NT.

Geologically speaking, Nitmiluk Gorge is part of the Arnhem Land Plateau which is made out of sandstone, from sand carried down by a river system that was compacted into solid rock over time.

“Then over 1,650 million years or so, the earth was uplifted and fractured, like when you slice a mango and turn the skin inside out,” says Jamie. “So from the air the land looks like a block of chocolate and these waterways flow in a zigzag pattern.”

Whilst there is no chocolate on board, a candlelit three-course dinner is ready as guests are transferred to another boat; this one with white table-clothed dining tables. Gliding through this prehistoric landscape we eat everything from crocodile amuse-bouche to passionfruit panna cotta, which is a gorgeously enjoyable (and surprisingly gourmet) experience.

Nitmiluk (Katherine) River Gorges Dinner Cruise

Dinner is prepared on the Katherine River Gorge Cruises. (Photo: Nitmiluk Tours)

The cultural enlightenment continues back at the lodge, with a special workshop. Led by a small group of Jawoyn guides, we’re taught about the intricacies of basket weaving and making weapons, the style of x-ray painting, and the resourcefulness of bush medicine. Terrence, a young Jawoyn man forging a career in tourism, explains the significance of native plants and animals often depicted in Indigenous art.

“This is the kapok tree and when the bulbs form, that means the crocs have laid their eggs, and when the flowers bloom, that means the eggs have hatched and can be eaten. They’re good tucker too!”

Terrence is one of the many local Indigenous people who have been recruited to work here; not through a formal recruitment agency but through the strong relationship that Nitmiluk Tours and Cicada share with the Jawoyn.

“It’s taken time to develop our relationship, which is based on a mutual respect and understanding,” says Tessa. “And now when we have job openings, we just put the word out and people from the local Aboriginal community will often come back suggesting who they think should fill the role.”

Although Cicada Lodge is still in its infancy, there are already big plans underway to expand the experience. Very big.

“There’s another art site that has recently been discovered in Jawoyn country, just above Nitmiluk in Arnhem Land,” says Clive, lowering his voice.

The place he’s speaking of is known as ‘Gabarnmung’ by the Jawoyn, meaning ‘hole in a rock’ and it’s been found under a sandstone shelter, held up by natural pillars.

“Hundreds of paintings have been protected here, paintings of kangaroos, snakes, and spirits from The Dreaming.

“And although this is all quite new, carbon dating suggests the people who painted these artworks were around more than 45,000 years ago – that’s long before the Pyramids, confirming that the Jawoyn people are part of the oldest living culture in the world.”

While I try to keep up with this mind-boggling revelation, Clive explains the concern is that the pillars that hold up the shelter are in an incredibly fragile state. So much so, that archaeologists from around the world have been flown in to work with the Jawoyn and restore it.

“Once restored, we’re hoping to open this location exclusively to Cicada guests as another helicopter destination, nobody else.” reveals Clive.

Apparently there’s something pretty special about named places, too.

Cicada Lodge Details

Getting there: From Darwin, it’s a 350-kilometre drive south-east via Katherine.

Staying there: There are 18 rooms at Cicada Lodge, each designed for couples.

However if you do decide to bring the kids along, staff can rearrange a room to cater for two extra beds. Prices start at more than $600 per room per night (based on twin share), which includes breakfast, ‘Welcome to Nitmiluk’ sunset drinks and appetisers in the evening. However more inclusive packages are available so you can experience more of the area.

Need to know: Although Cicada Lodge provide a tube of sunscreen in every bathroom, we’d recommend bringing your own. This is the outback and the sun has extra bite.

For more information: 1300 146 743; cicadalodge.com.au

How to walk the Jatbula Trail in Nitmiluk National Park, NT

How to explore the wildly beautiful outback in Northern Territory’s Nitmiluk National Park… one step at a time. Words by Cilla Cole.

The thunder of the cascades

In the face of reluctance

Not yet well-trodden

A destination in itself

Claiming your own piece of wilderness

The details

When to go

Need to know

The best ways to explore Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge

Fancy an outback, bush tucker dining experience?

It’s official! The Northern Territory’s best restaurant is in Uluṟu.

8 Northern Territory secrets the locals don’t want you to know

Luxury in the heart of Katherine Gorge

Where ancient rock art meets Bvlgari soap. Australian Traveller magazine heads to Cicada Lodge: the outback’s newest high-end stay. Words by Alissa Jenkins, photography by Rebecca Taylor.

Cicada Lodge Details