The best ways to explore Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge

By Editor
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The big question is not whether you should experience the world famous Nitmiluk Katherine Gorge, but how? Do you walk, canoe, boat or fly around the 12km-long series of 13 stunning gorges?

Cruise it

The Katherine River flows through 13 separate gorges that weave their way through the Arnhem Land Plateau.

The Katherine River flows through 13 separate gorges that weave their way through the Arnhem Land Plateau.

Worn centimetre by centimetre from the red sandstone over the millennia, Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge snakes its way for 12km along the Arnhem Land Plateau on its way to the sea. As our cruise vessel drifts along on emerald waters between cliffs up to 70m high, our Aboriginal guide animatedly brings to life the stories of Bula the Creator and Nabilil, a dragon-like creature who camped at the entrance to the gorge.

“He heard the song of the cicada – nit, nit nit – and called the place Nitmiluk," he explains. Aside from cicadas, Nitmiluk is the traditional home of the Jawoyn people, who jointly manage the 292,008ha Nitmiluk National Park with the NT Parks and Wildlife Commission, as well as owning and operating Nitmiluk Tours.

Around each bend brings another delight, like Butterfly Gorge, where a lovely, shady inlet is home to black and white butterflies flitting among the trees. Here the soft light floats with us along the river, highlighting mysteries of the Jawoyn Dreamings. The Creation being Bula travelled this land leaving his image as paintings in the rock shelters.

Katherine Gorge, Nitmiluk National Park, Northern Territory

A dip in paradise: Katherine Gorge, Nitmiluk National Park, NT.

Estimates date the 400 recorded rock art sites at 10,000 years old. Often described as 13 gorges, Nitmiluk is actually one continuous cleft, turning left and right along fault lines and separated during the dry season by rock bars and rapids.

The spectacle of the river hemmed in by red cliffs makes for a wonderful cruise or canoe trip, and at Nitmiluk bushwalkers are welcomed to tackle its many marked trails.

“It’s a unique opportunity for people to experience the Aboriginal people of the Northern Territory on their own land," says Clive Pollack, general manager of Nitmiluk Tours. “We are every year increasing the interaction between our tourists and our Aboriginal people."

Watching the water slip beneath the bow of the cruise boat you almost expect Bolung, the Rainbow Serpent, to surface from one of the deep green pools. According to the Jawoyn, Bolung must not be disturbed. We do not see the mythical serpent and the vessel journeys on, each of us safe in the knowledge that our visit has been blessed by a Creation being.

Paddle it

 

Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge, Northern Territory

Floating across the serene waters of the Katherine River. Image by Tourism NT

“Canoeing up the gorge amongst the crocs with the red cliffs rising up on either side is just spectacular," says David Koch. Hire a canoe from the visitors centre in the national park and go at your own pace – you should reach the third gorge in a day.

From this perspective the cliffs look even more dramatic and you might spot wallabies and water monitors along the banks as you paddle by, with time to stop for a swim, walk or picnic.

Walk it

Jatbula Trail, Northern Territory

A well-earned soak on the Jatbula Trail.

There are more than 100km of walking trails around the gorge, allowing visitors to take their time and meet much of the wildlife abundant in this lovely area, including the fish. Walking tracks abound in Nitmiluk National Park – each one offers differing views of the gorge from lookouts, the escarpment and along the banks.

There are shorter walks from one to six hours, or adventurers can take a five-day hike along part of the epic Jatbula Trail. You’ll need a permit if you do an overnight walk.

Fly over it

Top off your Katherine stay with a helicopter flight. Nitmiluk Scenic Flights offers flights to three, eight or all 13 gorges. Seeing the landscape from above gives you a sense of how vast this Jawoyn-owned land is.

If you’re staying at  Cicada Lodge , you can upgrade the helicopter flight to an Adventure Swim Tour, which includes all 13 gorges and one of Australia’s most remote swimming holes, or do the Jawoyn Rock Art Tour and fly to an indigenous art site.

Nitmiluk Tours

Over thousands of years, Nitmiluk Gorge has been carved out of the sandstone cliffs of the Katherine River, creating 13 distinct gorges, each with its own stunning natural landmarks and steeped in the culture of the traditional owners – the Jawoyn. Nitmiluk is a destination that brings together cultural, nature and adventure experiences with a range of accommodation options, including boutique Cicada Lodge.

Poolside at Cicada Lodge.

Poolside at Cicada Lodge.

While you’re there you can take a boat tour or a helicopter to secret waterfalls; observe artwork being painted by local indigenous artists and gain an understanding of their culture through interpretations. Nitmiluk Tours is the exclusive tour provider for the breathtaking Nitmiluk Gorge.  nitmiluktours.com.au

Did you know?

Cutta Cutta Caves and its rare residents

The entire area around Katherine, located 340km south of Darwin, is characterised by limestone formations with bubbling thermal springs – and plenty of convoluted cave systems. To the south of Katherine is Cutta Cutta Caves Nature Park, featuring the Cutta Cutta cave, which is open to the public. The underground network of tropical limestone caves can be easily explored in an hour. The unique formations, created millions of years ago, are still growing today.

The caves are home to native wildlife, glowing crystals, secret underground lakes and extraordinary helictites, which grow in any direction, defying gravity.

Horseshoe bats also call the caves home, and with further permission you can go far deeper to spot the small, blind, albino micro beasts (a variety of shrimp), which are peculiar to a tiny region in Africa and these very caves.

During WWII the caves were used and abused when the Japanese bombed Darwin and targets further south – stalactites still show remnants of gunshots – and there were numerous examples of sections of the cave system collapsing during the building of airstrips. Water from the caves travels more than 100km north, rising as hot springs in the Douglas Daly region.

Best time to go

The most comfortable time to visit the Top End is in June and July. However, if you can handle hot and sticky weather, the Wet (January-March) is great for enjoying a lush and green landscape and barramundi fishing.

Where to stay

Base yourself at Nitmiluk campground for easy access to the main attraction, Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge. Choose from powered camping sites,  permanent tents, or one of the one or two-bedroom chalets. or splurge out and stay in the lap of luxury at Cicada Lodge.

How to get there

From Darwin, drive 315km south along the Stuart Highway, around a three-hour drive. The Nitmiluk Katherine gorge is located 29km from Katherine, along a sealed road.

Along the way: Southeast of Adelaide River, you can venture east off the Stuart Hwy for a cold beer at the Grove Hill Pub and on to Pine Creek, or choose west along the Douglas Daly scenic route and stop for a dip at Robin Falls.

 

Grove Hill Heritage Hotel, Adelaide River NT

Party pub: Grove Hill Heritage Hotel and Museum, Adelaide River NT (photo: Jen Pinkerton).

Tjuwaliyn (Douglas) Hot Springs, a protected part of the Douglas River, is also teeming with an array of birdlife and mammals from flying foxes to bandicoots. East along the 4WD-only Goldfield Loop will take you through Hayes Creek to check out some historic sites from WWII.

Leliyn swimming hole (Edith Falls)

Leliyn (Edith Falls) makes for a refreshing dip (photo: Megan Arkinstall).

Grab a bite at the Lazy Lizard Tavern at Pine Creek before heading on to wonderful Edith Falls at the northern end of Nitmiluk National Park. The walking tracks are terrific here, and built on the banks of Katherine River is Springvale Homestead, the Top End’s first cattle station, which is still open to the public and welcomes daily visitors.

Other things to do in and around Katherine

Katherine is home to the delightful Katherine Hot Springs, as well as an interesting Outback Heritage Museum, among other worthy sights.

A trip through the Territory Wildlife Park, made up of 400 hectares of natural bushlands, is a great local tour – as is a three-day canoeing adventure down the sometimes-turbid waters of the Katherine River.

Experienced Savannah Guide Mick Jerram touts this canoeing excursion as the perfect way to become immersed in a relaxing, stress-free environment while learning about the natural features of the Katherine River and its environment and ecosystems.

Floating across the serene waters of the Katherine River. Image by Tourism NT

You’ll paddle 40-55km through a wildlife-rich river system fed by springs and soaks throughout the long dry season, so there’s plenty of water on which to glide close to rocky banks, drift amid paperbark forests, race down small rapids and paddle through pandanus channels.

Along the way ducks, egrets, herons, parrots, cockatoos and even the elusive brolga congregate along the shoreline, along with wallabies, euros, goannas, freshwater crocs and plenty of fish. At the end of each day as the canoe gently moves over calm waters, coming to rest on a secluded stretch of river sand, there’s a real sense of being in harmony with nature.

See www.geckocanoeing.com.au for more information.

Further afield

Heading south?

 

Daly Waters Pub, Northern Territory

The Daly Waters pub on the Stuart Highway is an outback icon.

Call into the Daly Waters Pub, voted Australia’s best pub in the Australian Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards

“A true blue Aussie experience" according to one reader, this outback pub in NT tops the list of Australia’s favourite watering holes.

Located approximately 600km south of Darwin and 1000km north of Alice Springs, ‘We are in the middle of somewhere’ the website reads.

Catering for all travellers passing through the area, the walls and ceilings are adorned with all kinds of memorabilia, from Irish football jerseys to bras of all sizes.

The entertainment is typical Australiana – the resident performer Chilli shares funny stories about the early days in the Territory, paying homage to the historical roots of the town and the pub, which was built in 1930.

Readers love its heritage and the good old-fashioned pub grub served – as well as the promise that beer is always icy cold, despite the soaring heat outside. dalywaterspub.com

Heading west on the Savannah Way? Spend a couple of nights at Bullo River Station.

The 160,000-hectare Bullo River Station

The 160,000-hectare Bullo River Station is a wilderness of red escarpments marked with boab trees (photo: Ewan Bell).

Made famous by Sara Henderson in her autobiography From Strength to Strength, the station offers the quintessential Top End station adventure.

Half a million acres, it has hot, thirsty plains with more than 8000 Brahman-cross cattle and dusty stock camps; rivers chock-full of crocodiles and barramundi; escarpments with centuries-old Aboriginal rock art; waterfalls and swimming holes; wetlands teeming with birdlife; wild buffalo, wallabies, dingoes and Bullo’s iconic boab trees. A state-of-the-art “solar temple" produces 24-hour green power.

Activities include quad biking, horse riding, fishing, heli-mustering and scenic chopper rides.

Where is it?  In the NT’s north-western corner, 200km east of Kununurra along the Savannah Way, 466 km south-west of Katherine, near the community of Timber Creek. Access is by 4WD on unsealed roads, or by light aircraft; Bullo also operates charter flights. Open: March 1-October 31. bulloriver.com.au

For more information on Nitmiluk / Katherine Gorge & things to do in the NT, visit the official Northern Territory website at northernterritory.com

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Luxury in the heart of Katherine Gorge

    By Editor
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    Where ancient rock art meets Bvlgari soap. Australian Traveller magazine heads to Cicada Lodge: the outback’s newest high-end stay. Words by Alissa Jenkins, photography by Rebecca Taylor.

     

    There’s something special about a place so remote, it’s yet to be named.

    A special women's area to the local Jawoyn people known as the 'art site'.

    A special women’s area to the local Jawoyn people known as the ‘art site’.

    In Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, just south of Kakadu in the Northern Territory’s Top End – an area that encompasses 3000 square kilometres – there are many of these.

    Among them is a secluded swimming hole only known in the English language as ‘the art site’.

    Nitmiluk Helicopters, Northern Territory

    Flying above the Katherine River and her 13 gorges to a secret waterhole known as the ‘rock art site with Nitmiluk Helicopter, Northern Territory. (Photo: Nitmiluk Helicopters)

    Accessible only via helicopter, this pristine pocket centres around a freshwater waterfall, surrounded by a gallery of ancient rock art, painted by the local Jawoyn people up to 30,000 years ago. Rust and chalk-coloured lines depict local delicacies like wallaby and cherabin, while figures of frizzy-haired women reveal something much more.

    Stunning rock art, depicting nearby food sources, such as Wallaby, in the Nitmiluk National Park.

    Stunning rock art, depicting nearby food sources, such as Wallaby, in the Nitmiluk National Park.

    “We believe this was a place for women and these paintings were to warn initiated Jawoyn men that they had no business here,” explains Dave Paton, a personal pilot and guide to guests in the area.

    “You’ve got to remember, Nitmiluk National Park is only a small part of Jawoyn Country, which also takes in part of Kakadu, the south-west corner of Arnhem Land, all the way down to Mataranka. That’s 50,000 square kilometres all up, larger than Denmark and Belgium combined,” he adds.

    “The exciting thing is, we believe we’ve only found two per cent of art sites here in Jawoyn Country. There’s still a fair bit of country here that hasn’t had people come through for many, many years.”

    This is just one of the surreal experiences available exclusively to guests at nearby Cicada Lodge (the other stunner being the Northern Rock Hole).

    Northern Rock Hole, Nitmiluk National Park.

    Northern Rock Hole, Nitmiluk National Park.

    Opened in March 2013, it was a welcome high-end edition to the NT’s outback.

    Unlike other luxury retreats – owned by widespread conglomerates – Cicada Lodge (and sister business Nitmiluk Tours) is wholly owned by the Jawoyn people, so the funds generated go back into the local community.

    As a result, this isn’t your typical five-star stay where guests remain cooped up in remote-controlled comfort.

    Of course you can, if you so wish, but the focus is on getting immersed in the environment and the culture. And given the lodge is tucked away on the Katherine River, 30 kilometres from Katherine’s town centre, it’d be a shame not to.

    “The concept of sharing the Jawoyn culture is terribly important, and we’ve been very fortunate that this is a community that wants change, that wants to share their culture and to improve their future,” says Cicada’s marketing director, Clive Pollack.

    “We’re not only working to preserve the Jawoyn culture, but we’re making it commercially viable in an evolving, new-age environment,” adds Tessa Pollack – anthropologist, training manager and, incidentally, Clive’s wife.

    On the flipside, both Pollacks insist that the Cicada experience “all comes back to service”.

    As soon as I walk into the main foyer, which still has that smell of newness, I’m greeted by smiling staff and a glass of G.H.Mumm.

    Luggage is swiftly collected before I’m shown to my room, one of 18, and although it looks suspiciously similar to a corrugated-iron shed on stilts, there’s nothing rudimentary about it inside.

    Bedroom Cicada Lodge, Northern Territory

    A king-sized bed in every Cicada Lodge room.

    Polished timber floors and artworks by local Indigenous artists frame an island king-sized bed, beside which chocolates and slippers mysteriously appear each evening. A banquet of Bvlgari amenities await in the ensuite bathroom, while a private balcony overlooks native greenery above the Katherine River.

    “If you want crepes by the pool at 2:00am, we can do it. If you want to do a yoga class overlooking the river, we can do it,” adds Clive. “And we’re open year-round so if there are floods and guests can’t reach the lodge by car, we’ll send a helicopter to collect them, free of charge.”

    Poolside at Cicada Lodge.

    Poolside at Cicada Lodge.

    But make no mistake, despite the complimentary wi-fi and poolside appetisers each evening, this is the outback. One of the area’s better-known residents is Esmeralda, a two-metre olive python. Over the last few months she’s gained a reputation for repeatedly attempting to eat a Great Dane puppy belonging to Nitmiluk Tours’ river operations manager, Anthony McKie.

    “Just about every night Esmeralda comes back and tries to swallow Bandit while he’s sleeping,” says Anthony. “I’ll come out and she’ll have his two front legs in her mouth!”

    Poolside at Cicada Lodge.

    Poolside at Cicada Lodge.

    Guests needn’t worry though; no harm is ever done – a Great Dane pup is far too big to swallow (and so are humans, just in case you were wondering).

    Pythons aren’t the only local wildlife you can spot here. A family of agile wallabies have made themselves at home on the property, offering a free lawn-mowing service. They also make for cute breakfast-time entertainment.

    Travellers also come here to see the crocs, and the best way to do this is on a Nabilil Dreaming Sunset cruise when the gorge is at its quietest (an inclusive experience for Cicada guests staying two or more nights). The cruise takes passengers through two of the 13 gorges that make up Nitmiluk Gorge, formerly known as Katherine Gorge.

    Nitmiluk Katherine River Gorge Cruise

    A sunset cruise on the gorges of the Katherine River, Northern Territory (Photo : Nitmiluk Cruises)

    “We get salt-water crocs in here during the wet season, when the waterways flood and open up,” says guide Jamie Brookes. “For the rest of the year it’s just freshies, but they won’t hurt you so long as you don’t step on one.”

    Unfortunately, we spot neither salt nor fresh-water croc, but the scenery makes up for any disappointment.

    As we drift along the khaki channel, jagged sandstone cliffs tower above, which could pass for an impressionist artwork at times; blobs of copper-coloured outcrops, mustard lichen and green native ferns. “The Jawoyn believe these gorges were formed in The Dreaming when Bolong, the giant rainbow serpent, slithered through the area,” says Jamie, as we reach a deep bend in the second gorge.

    “It’s believed he still rests in this part, so pregnant Jawoyn women and new initiates aren’t allowed to swim here, in case they disturb him.”

    Peregrine's Dreaming Place tour takes in Katherine Gorge, NT.

    Peregrine’s Dreaming Place tour takes in Katherine Gorge, NT.

    Geologically speaking, Nitmiluk Gorge is part of the Arnhem Land Plateau which is made out of sandstone, from sand carried down by a river system that was compacted into solid rock over time.

    “Then over 1,650 million years or so, the earth was uplifted and fractured, like when you slice a mango and turn the skin inside out,” says Jamie. “So from the air the land looks like a block of chocolate and these waterways flow in a zigzag pattern.”

    Whilst there is no chocolate on board, a candlelit three-course dinner is ready as guests are transferred to another boat; this one with white table-clothed dining tables. Gliding through this prehistoric landscape we eat everything from crocodile amuse-bouche to passionfruit panna cotta, which is a gorgeously enjoyable (and surprisingly gourmet) experience.

    Nitmiluk (Katherine) River Gorges Dinner Cruise

    Dinner is prepared on the Katherine River Gorge Cruises. (Photo: Nitmiluk Tours)

    The cultural enlightenment continues back at the lodge, with a special workshop. Led by a small group of Jawoyn guides, we’re taught about the intricacies of basket weaving and making weapons, the style of x-ray painting, and the resourcefulness of bush medicine. Terrence, a young Jawoyn man forging a career in tourism, explains the significance of native plants and animals often depicted in Indigenous art.

    “This is the kapok tree and when the bulbs form, that means the crocs have laid their eggs, and when the flowers bloom, that means the eggs have hatched and can be eaten. They’re good tucker too!”

    Terrence is one of the many local Indigenous people who have been recruited to work here; not through a formal recruitment agency but through the strong relationship that Nitmiluk Tours and Cicada share with the Jawoyn.

    “It’s taken time to develop our relationship, which is based on a mutual respect and understanding,” says Tessa. “And now when we have job openings, we just put the word out and people from the local Aboriginal community will often come back suggesting who they think should fill the role.”

    Although Cicada Lodge is still in its infancy, there are already big plans underway to expand the experience. Very big.

    “There’s another art site that has recently been discovered in Jawoyn country, just above Nitmiluk in Arnhem Land,” says Clive, lowering his voice.

    The place he’s speaking of is known as ‘Gabarnmung’ by the Jawoyn, meaning ‘hole in a rock’ and it’s been found under a sandstone shelter, held up by natural pillars.

    “Hundreds of paintings have been protected here, paintings of kangaroos, snakes, and spirits from The Dreaming.

    “And although this is all quite new, carbon dating suggests the people who painted these artworks were around more than 45,000 years ago – that’s long before the Pyramids, confirming that the Jawoyn people are part of the oldest living culture in the world.”

    While I try to keep up with this mind-boggling revelation, Clive explains the concern is that the pillars that hold up the shelter are in an incredibly fragile state. So much so, that archaeologists from around the world have been flown in to work with the Jawoyn and restore it.

    “Once restored, we’re hoping to open this location exclusively to Cicada guests as another helicopter destination, nobody else.” reveals Clive.

    Apparently there’s something pretty special about named places, too.

    Cicada Lodge Details

    Getting there: From Darwin, it’s a 350-kilometre drive south-east via Katherine.

    Staying there: There are 18 rooms at Cicada Lodge, each designed for couples.

    However if you do decide to bring the kids along, staff can rearrange a room to cater for two extra beds. Prices start at more than $600 per room per night (based on twin share), which includes breakfast, ‘Welcome to Nitmiluk’ sunset drinks and appetisers in the evening. However more inclusive packages are available so you can experience more of the area.

    Need to know: Although Cicada Lodge provide a tube of sunscreen in every bathroom, we’d recommend bringing your own. This is the outback and the sun has extra bite.

    For more information: 1300 146 743; cicadalodge.com.au