Tackling Northern Territory's Larapinta Trail solo in 6 days

With only a week up her sleeve, Caro Ryan squeezes in the best of the Larapinta Trail’s wild swimming holes, classic ridgetop hikes and a summit sunrise that leaves her longing for more.

In my dreams I find myself out in the wilderness, taking on one of Australia’s long-distance hiking trails, The Larapinta Trail, in a single, unbroken journey. But, like so many of us, the realities of life dictate that my adventures are squeezed into bite-sized chunks of week-long forays, book-ended by a frantic rush to prepare, followed by an Everest of washing.

So, while the 223 kilometres of the Northern Territory’s Larapinta Trail can be swallowed whole in 14 to 20 days, I’m content with just six days and a taste of the best the Larapinta Trail has to offer.

Day 1 – Alice Springs and Section 10 (Ormiston Gorge to Finke River)

Piling into a minibus in Alice Springs, I take stock of my group for the next six days: an eclectic mix of Aussies aged between 40 and 60, including a few solo hikers, a married couple and a pair of friends who do a week-long hike together each year. We’re the types who love to feel the earth under our feet and to connect with wild places in a way that leaves our bodies feeling like they’ve moved, climbed or scrambled. It’s not long before we’re sharing stories as the van rushes west along the Namatjira Highway.

Larapinta Trail, Northern Territory — On the road to the start of the Larapinta Trail.

Arriving at Ormiston Gorge, we hit the trail along Section 10, which – at just 9.1 kilometres – is the shortest of Larapinta’s 12 sections. It’s a good introduction to this big sky country with a gentle ascent to a great lunch spot at Hilltop Lookout.

It’s late in the April to September hiking season so, after a few hours walking in 34°C temperatures, sliding into the cool, calm waters of the Finke River – the first of many wild-swimming opportunities – is the respite everyone has been waiting for.

Ormiston Gorge, Northern Territory — Arriving at Ormiston Gorge at the start of the Larapinta Trail.

Later, at basecamp, with our bellies full after three delicious courses, I fight heavy eyelids, trying to stay awake to watch just a little more of the star-heavy sky as it presses down on me. Just one more satellite; one more shooting star. Fortunately, I still have five nights in the swag to take it all in.

Day 2 – Serpentine Gorge to Serpentine Chalet (section 8)

With three litres of water in our daypacks, we hit the trail before 8 am for the first real ascent (350 metres) up to the Heavytree Range. This is my type of hiking: skimming along broken, rocky ridgelines with 360-degree views that zigzag until we reach Counts Point lookout; the perfect little lunch spot. Here, our guide interlaces geological stories about how the landscape came to be with those of its traditional owners, the Arrernte people. Somehow, from up here, it all makes sense.

We finish up at one of the chillier swimming holes. Brisk, but not bracing, the now-familiar ochre cliffs keep the setting sun at bay.

Day 3 – Serpentine Chalet Dam to Inarlanga Pass and the Ochre Pits (section 9)

Conscious of the pre-dawn wakeup call tomorrow, we spend a gentle morning walking to Inarlanga Pass, learning about the ceremonial site’s significance along the way. A mildly technical (and fun) rock scramble leads us through a high-walled, open-sky tunnel, birthing us out into the vast channel between two ridges of the Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges National Park. We return along the Arrernte Walking Track and a trailhead at the Ochre Pits, with its earthy rainbow-stained walls evidence of the site’s 40,000-year-old history.

By now, we’re used to having a post-walk swim and today delivers a chilly dip in the reed-edged waters of Glen Helen Gorge. Not content with simply an aquatic refreshment, we stop in at Glen Helen Homestead for the classic outback pub (and grub) experience (the works burger and a cold beer hits the spot).

Glen Helen Gorge, Northern Territory — Today delivers a chilly dip in the reed-edged waters of Glen Helen Gorge.

Day 4 – Mount Sonder Sunrise

We’ve been ambling along towards Mount Sonder (the western end of the Larapinta) for the past four days, listening to the Arrernte stories of how she is a reclining pregnant woman, and today is our moment to finally meet her. With fresh batteries in our head torches, beanies on and jackets zipped to brave the surprisingly strong cold wind, we start the 8-kilometre, 680-metre ascent at 2.45 am. We make the summit just in time to see the boiling red sun start her ascent across the Territory sky. Only after turning my back do I see my favourite view of the entire trip: the bold dawn light has cast Sonder’s feminine shadow across the plains below.

Mount Sonder summit — The summit of Mount Sonder at sunrise is a highlight of the Larapinta Trail.

Day 5 – Ormiston Gorge and The Pound Walk

Not strictly part of the Larapinta Trail, the seven-kilometre (3-4 hour) Ormiston Pound circuit walk is one of the best day walks of the West MacDonnell Ranges. Refreshed after yesterday’s lazy afternoon, we set off in an anti-clockwise circuit. Upon summiting the lookout, I ponder the pound’s bowl-like structure and notice the harsh, vibrant colours of the desert mixed in with the soft pastel mauves of an Albert Namitjira painting. The circuit ends by leading you through (yes, through) the chilly waters of Ormiston Gorge and back to the hubbub of the campground and kiosk.

Ormiston Pound, Larapinta Trail — The Ormiston Pound circuit walk is one of the best day walks of the West MacDonnell Ranges.

Day 6 – Drive to Alice Springs via Ellery Creek Waterhole

The end of the trip and my Everest pile of washing is sadly not too far away. It’s just under a two-hour drive back to Alice Springs, but we’re not leaving without stopping for a final dip. The popular Ellery Creek Big Hole (waterhole) provides my final wild baptism, inspiring me to return one day to walk the full length of the epic Larapinta.

Ellery Creek Big Hole, Northern Territory — Be sure to stop for a final dip at the popular Ellery Creek Big Hole.

Details

Getting there: Virgin Australia flies to Alice Springs from Adelaide, Darwin and Brisbane, while Qantas flies direct from Darwin, Uluru, Sydney, Adelaide, Melbourne and Perth.

Staying there: You can bush camp along the full length of the Larapinta Trail at 29 designated campsites . All trailheads have a water supply and some have free gas BBQs.

Several tour companies provide semi-permanent base camps as part of their itineraries. Check out Trek Larapinta , World Expeditions, Walking Country and Epicurious Travel .

Eating there: Independent trekkers must bring all their own supplies, with food drops and logistics available. Fully guided tours provide all meals and snacks.

Hiking there: End-to-end trekking along the Larapinta Trail is for fit, experienced and well-equipped hikers only. If in doubt, go with a licensed tour operator for a shorter guided journey. The best time to go is during winter; be prepared for day temperatures in the mid-30s and cool nights of around 5°C. The trails consist of uneven, sharp and broken rocks that are unforgiving on shoes. Good hiking boots with quality soles are essential.

Always, always carry plenty of drinking water.

For more information read our outback survival guide and this Larapinta Trail safety information sheet .

Summer transforms the Northern Territory into a lush paradise of colour and life, as a visit during the ‘low-season’ reveals secrets the locals willingly share.

Waterlilies bloom, floodplains are alive with birdlife, waterfalls are gushing, and everywhere the green is dazzling. Summer in the Top End and the Red Centre is a kaleidoscope of unexpected wonders that delight and surprise visitors. Of course, the locals know only too well that the Northern Territory low season is often the best time to see and experience this amazing part of Australia.

Here are some of the reasons why savvy travellers – avoiding the crowds – are discovering a new dimension to the Territory. Remember that you’ll need a Parks Pass to visit national parks.

1. Take a dip in the Florence Falls waterhole

Wander through savanna woodland and monsoon forest to discover the perfect place to cool off – the waterhole at the base of spectacular Florence Falls in the magnificent Litchfield National Park , just 90 minutes’ drive from Darwin. The falls flow year-round but are most spectacular during the summer. Camping is available nearby but bookings are essential and must be made online before you visit.

Surrounded by lush forest, a woman cools off in Florence Falls, just one of many incredible things to do in the Northern Territory. — Cool off beneath the cascading waters of Florence Falls. (Image: Joshua Griffin)

2. Wind down at Buley Rock Hole

Another popular local swimming spot in Litchfield National Park is Buley Rock Hole , open year-round. This is a great place to wind down after exploring everything the park has to offer, including towering termite mounds. Wade through the rock pools, soak up the scenic bush or just lie back and relax as the cool water rolls over you.

Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park — Let the cool water wash over you. (Image: Tourism Australia)

3. Tour the Tiwi Islands

The Tiwi Islands , a scenic 80km flight from Darwin across the narrow Clarence and Dundas Straits, reveal a different side to the Territory, with their own distinctive culture. Take a day tour with Tiwi by Design to visit Bathurst Island and learn about creation stories, the Mission days, World War II history and the islanders’ obsession with AFL!

Take a ‘behind-the-scenes’ tour of Tiwi Design’s screen-printing workshop and pick up a great souvenir in the form of art. Choose from contemporary or traditional Tiwi designs and a wide range of work including carvings, paintings, pottery, printmaking, bark paintings and tunga (bark baskets).

A creative moment shared inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing space. — Take a peek inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing studio. (Image: Tourism NT)

4. Dine in Darwin

Foodies are spoilt for choice in multi-cultural Darwin. Try Sri Lankan flavours at Ella by Minoli, where Masterchef contestant Minoli De Silva creates delectable dishes, or head to Charlie’s of Darwin for gin-tasting, cocktails and more. Bowls of fragrant laksa, excellent coffee, fresh vegetables and authentic crafts are all part of a weekend visit to Darwin’s Parap Markets , Rapid Creek Markets and the Nightcliff Markets .

Prefer to catch your own dinner? Book a Top End fishing charter to bag a barramundi – and from October register for the annual Million Dollar Fish competition. Hooking one of the tagged barra released each year in waterways across the Territory could win you up to $1 million.

A bowl of Laksa. — Eat your way through multicultural Darwin. (Image: Tourism NT)

5. Up close with Uluṟu

The magnificent monolith Uluṟu is even more magical when the summer rains fall. When it rains on The Rock, the locals come out to watch – consider yourself lucky if that happens when you visit. Waterfalls cascading off the sides of Uluṟu is a sight that relatively few tourists see.

There’s so much to do at Uluṟu, from guided walks to learn the stories of the Aṉangu people and the ancient landscape they live in to scenic flights for a bird’s-eye view or a leisurely walk around the base of Uluṟu. Book ahead to spend the evening wandering through the Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro.

A closer look at Uluru and uncover its ancient stories, sacred sites, and striking natural beauty – one of the most iconic things to do in the Northern Territory. — Discover the details that make Uluṟu truly sacred. (Image: Tourism NT)

6. Drive the Red Centre Way

From Alice Springs, take an epic road trip along the Red Centre Way, taking in Uluru and Watarrka National Park, home to the magnificent Kings Canyon. Allow at least a week to drive through the red heart of Australia by 4WD, a little longer on the sealed road by 2WD vehicle, travelling through ochre deserts, palm-lined valleys and dramatic gorges. Stop off at waterholes for a refreshing dip along the way.

Kings Canyon offers hiking options for all levels of fitness, from the three-hour Rim Walk atop soaring sandstone walls to the gentler Kings Creek Walk. Either way, you’ll have breathtaking views.

SEIT Outback Australia is a small group touring specialist offering exciting, adventurous, exclusive and specialised iconic, pioneering and cultural touring in the Red Centre of Australia, giving you the time to learn, absorb and relax in the heart of Australia.<br /><br />This innovative tour company focuses on providing clients with the ultimate interpretive touring experiences with a range of products and customised touring itineraries for small groups and bespoke private charters.<br /><br />The company bases its philosophies from the key words of Spirit, Emotion, Intellect and Task (SEIT). — Drive through Australia’s heart. (Image: Outback Australia Tours)

7. Take a walk at Kata Tjuṯa

Head out early to tackle the Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuṯa . This natural wonder, also known as The Olgas, is a labyrinth of soaring ochre domes that glow golden at sunrise and sunset (the walk may be closed during the middle of the day as temperatures rise).

Walking trails range from easy to longer, more difficult tracks. At the Kata Tjuṯa dune viewing area, take in the panoramic view of the domes. The longest of the trails is the Valley of the Winds Walk, a 7.4km circuit that winds between the domes and through creek beds. It’s moderately difficult and steep in places, but offers stunning views – and occasional encounters with kangaroos.

The Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuta is one of the most awe-inspiring things to do in the Northern Territory, especially at sunrise when the domes glow golden. — Step into the golden light of Kata Tjuṯa. (Image: Tourism NT)

8. Explore Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges

Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park lies 135km west of Alice Springs, with many fascinating natural features to beguile visitors. The ‘West Macs’ formations include chasms, gorges and waterholes – take your swimsuit for a dip at Ormiston Gorge waterhole, open year-round. The Ormiston Pound Walk is a three to four-hour circuit that leaves from the visitor centre and loops back along the gorge via the main waterhole. Other places of interest in the park include Simpsons Gap , Standley Chasm , Ellery Creek Big Hole and Glen Helen .

Soaking in the serenity of Ormiston Gorge, these two travellers enjoy one of the most scenic things to do in the Northern Territory. — Take the plunge at Ormiston Gorge waterhole. (Image: Joshua Griffin Litchfield)

Start planning the NT road trip of a lifetime at northernterritory.com

6 days solo on the Larapinta Trail