The guide to visiting Trephina Gorge Nature Park

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When it comes to pristine waterholes, you are spoiled for choice in the Red Centre. But if you can only visit one spot in Central Australia, make it Trephina Gorge Nature Park home to sheer quartzite cliffs, a stunning rockhole, and the largest ghost gum in Australia. 

Situated in the East MacDonnell Ranges, Trephina Gorge is the perfect distance from Alice Springs for a day trip – or if you want to stay the night you can choose from one of three camping spots to sleep under the desert sky. This lesser-known nature park spanning 85 kilometres is significant to the Eastern Arrernte people because it is part of the sacred Wallaby Dreaming Trail, and was also once part of the early settlement of the Red Centre. 

From the must-do walks to the best camping spots, here’s your guide to visiting Trephina Gorge Nature Park. 

The striated red rockface at Trephina Gorge Nature Park.
The striated red rockface at Trephina Gorge Nature Park. (Image: Tourism NT/Shaana McNaught)

Things to do at Trephina Gorge Nature Park

Home to two gorges, Trephina and John Hayes, the park boasts walks for every age group and fitness level. Spend your days here scrambling up to lookouts, finding Australia’s largest ghost gum (best viewed in afternoon light), swimming, camping, and taking day trips to nearby N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park, Corrobboree Rock Conservation Reserve, and Arltunga Historical Reserve.  

Trephina Gorge Nature Park
Trephina Gorge Nature Park, NT (Image: Tourism NT/Shaana McNaught)

Walks at Trephina Gorge

To warm up the legs, kick off your Trephina Gorge adventure with the Gorge Stroll, an easy 20-minute jaunt that takes you into Trephina Gorge along a sandy creek bed to the waterhole.   

To take it up a notch, opt for one of the three longer walks: Trephina Gorge Walk, Panorama Walk (both of which take one hour), or the challenging Ridgetop Walk to John Hayes Rockhole, which will keep you busy for four to five hours.   

Both the Trephina Gorge Walk and Panorama Walk will immerse you in gorge scenery from the creek level and showcase the gorge from both rims. Here you will see river red gums lining the sandy creek and ghost gums growing precariously on the rocky ledges above the waterhole. Look out for blank-flanked rock wallabies and birds, including Pacific herons, black-fronted plovers and fairy martins. The slightly longer Panorama Walk will take you on an uphill stretch to a high point where you will be rewarded with stunning panoramic views.   

For experienced walkers, the 9km one-way Ridgetop Walk to John Hayes Rockhole offers spectacular views of the rugged East MacDonnell Ranges. Keep an eye out for the rare Thozet’s Box (Eucalyptus thozetiana) and wildflowers, including holly grevilleas, desert hibiscus, mulla mulla, hop bushes and cat’s tails.   

Trephina Gorge Natura Park ghostly gums
Ghostly gums stand to attention throughout the nature park. (Image: Northern Territory Government)

John Hayes Rockhole

John Hayes Rockhole is a popular swimming spot with icy cold water. However, during prolonged dry periods, the waterholes at Trephina Gorge and John Hayes Rockhole can evaporate, leaving only a sandy creekbed.  

From John Hayes Rockhole, you can set out on the 3.5km loop Chain of Ponds Walk. It starts with an easy 20-minute walk to the rim of the narrow gorge, offering spectacular views and continues on with some difficult climbing and scrambling that’s well worth the effort for the stunning views.  

Trephina Gorge Camping

At the Trephina Bluff, Trephina Gorge and Panorama campgrounds you will find toilets, picnic tables, drinking water, communal firepits, and gas barbecues. John Hayes Rockhole Campground has the same facilities, except for the drinking water. 

 Day trips from Trephina Gorge

If you’re camping at Trephina Gorge, you can use your camp as a base to visit nearby Arltunga, the site of Central Australia’s first town, N’Dhala Gorge, a cultural treasure with 6,000 rock carvings, and the remote Ruby Gap Nature Park, the site of Central Australia’s ruby boom.   

Arltunga Historical Reserve Trephina Gorge Nature Park Northern Territory
Arltunga Historical Reserve. (Image: Tourism NT/Sean Scott)
Leah McLennan
Leah McLennan is a freelance writer based in Darwin. She was a journalist in Sydney for over a decade and counts her time as travel editor for Australian Associated Press as one of the highlights of her career. From exploring remote campsites in the Top End with her family, to seeking out new art galleries in faraway cities, she’ll grab an adventurous or arty travel experience within her reach.
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8 Red Centre locations to explore after seeing the new movie, Kangaroo

Spend a few days visiting the real-life Central Australian locations that inspired the new film everyone is talking about, and discover why Alice Springs is such an important part of Australian culture.

In the credits of the new Australian film Kangaroo , the first name under ‘cast’ should read ‘The Northern Territory ’. Not only is Alice Springs (and the surrounding landscape) integral to the movie itself, but the spiritual heart of Australia and its local Indigenous owners also inform the look and feel of every frame, explains Producer Trisha Morton-Thomas of Brindle Films, who also plays Charlie’s grandmother Gwennie.

“By setting Kangaroo in Alice Springs (Mparntwe), the film embraces how visible Aboriginal people are here, and the living Aboriginal culture that is woven through this community,” she explains.

still from kangarro film
See Kangaroo, then visit the real-life filming locations.

And while shooting in such a sacred part of the Northern Territory required extra planning, it was something the cast and crew were highly invested in.

“There are incredibly significant sacred sites and places of deep cultural stories in the area, that at times are very gender-specific, which we’ve kept out of the production,” she explains. “Even if overhead drone footage captures a sacred site that isn’t meant to be seen by other people outside of that clan, we’ve made sure to omit it from the film.”

If Kangaroo piqued your interest in a Central Australian holiday, we don’t blame you. Read on to discover eight places featured in the movie that you can visit in real life – and get planning. Don’t forget to pack sunscreen and a hat.

1. Alice Springs/ Mparntwe

artist at Many Hands Art Centre
Visit the galleries of Alice Springs, like Many Hands Art Centre. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr/ Many Hands Art Centre)

The red and dusty streets of the film’s fictional town of Silvergum were filmed on the outskirts of Alice Springs. And, while the art gallery featured in the film is fictional, Alice Springs is a hub of creativity. See the work of local artists at the Araluen Art Centre , Yubu Napa Art Gallery , Iltja Ntjarra (Many Hands) Art Centre and the famous Tjanpi Desert Weavers .

2. The Kangaroo Sanctuary & Kangaroo Rescue Centre

The Kangaroo Sanctuary Alice Springs, the inspiration for the Kangaroo move
Visit the movie’s inspiration at Kangaroo Sanctuary. (Image: Tourism NT/ Kangaroo Sanctuary)

Kangaroo was inspired by the journey of Chris ‘Brolga’ Barns, who founded the now world-renowned Kangaroo Sanctuary based in Alice Springs. For lead actor, Aussie Ryan Corr, the animals were central to the movie, alongside the landscapes.

“The animals in this story were a real calling point for me,” he explains. “What this story tries to tell us about the connection between humans and animals is beautiful.”

To gain a real insight into the fauna and flora of the Red Centre, you can visit the Kangaroo Sanctuary on a sunset tour, where you might even get the chance to hold a baby kangaroo.

3. Ormiston Gorge

woman walking along the edge of Ormiston Gorge near alice springs
Take a dip in Ormiston Gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/ @domandjesso)

The film captures the raw beauty of the West MacDonnell Ranges, known in the Arrernte language as Tjoritja. This national park is rich in Indigenous culture and stark geological wonders.

Only a 15-minute drive from Alice Springs, Tjoritja offers visitors the chance to camp, hike and swim among ancient landscapes (most attractions are less than a three-hour drive away).

Ormiston Gorge , a cooling oasis in among the red desert sands, is one of the most popular destinations, no doubt because of the permanent swimming hole and towering red cliffs. From here, visitors can also embark on the beautiful Ormiston Pound Walk and the shorter – more accessible – Ghost Gum Walk. Bring your bathers – it’s safe for swimming.

4. Standley Chasm

woman walking through Standley Chasm near alice springs
Wander through Standley Chasm. (Image: Tourism NT)

The 1.2-kilometre walk to nearby Standley Chasm will be a highlight for any visitor as the imposing 40 metre-high chasm walls project strength and ancient wisdom.

Visit at midday to experience the path illumined by the midday sun. Not only will you fill your camera roll with vibrant red images of the gorge and its intoxicating shadows, but you can also camp nearby in a powered or unpowered site so you can watch the brilliance of the desert stars fill the night sky after dusk.

5. Simpsons Gap

three people walking on path through simpsons gap near alice springs
Walk the trails of Simpson’s Gap. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr)

Closer to Alice Springs, the photogenic Simpsons Gap is the perfect place to spot the endangered Black-footed Rock wallaby near the permanent watering hole. While swimming isn’t permitted, soaking up the sun and views certainly is.

Explore the area’s numerous walking trails, appreciate the soaring cliffs on either side of the ‘gap’ and pick out the shooting locations of Kangaroo in the area.

6. Ellery Creek Big Hole

aerial of Ellery Creek Big Hole near alice springs
Dive into Ellery Creek Big Hole. (Image: Tourism NT/ Tourism Australia)

When it comes to classic Northern Territory landscapes, you can’t go past Ellery Creek Big Hole/ Udepata : tall gum trees sidling up to a refreshing watering hole (fed by the West MacDonnell Ranges and surrounded by rugged red cliffs.

Swim in the cooling waters, hike the cliff tops, watch for birds and even stargaze as you camp here overnight. It’s locations like this that attracted the film’s director Kate Woods to the project.

“It humbles you to be in this environment: it’s so beautiful, so old and so vast,” she explains. “I was thrilled to get a chance to … shoot such a beautiful story in the incredible landscape of the Northern Territory.”

7. Larapinta Drive

aerial of Larapinta Drive into alice springs
Drive along Larapinta Drive. (Image: Tourism NT)

There is no better way to get a feel for how the characters arrived at the fictional Central Australian town of Silvergum than to travel along the iconic state road, Larapinta Drive.

Connecting Alice Springs to the mighty King’s Canyon in the west, via the historic community of Hermannsburg, this road takes in the West MacDonnell National Park, Alice Springs Desert Park and artist Albert Namatjira’s house, among other attractions. Take your time, bring a camera and prepare for numerous stops along the way.

8. Todd River

competitors in Henley on Todd Regatta, alice springs
Join in the fun of the quirky Henley on Todd Regatta. (Image: Tourism NT/ TImparja Creative)

Meandering through Alice Springs like a lazy Western Brown snake, the Todd River is a central part of Alice Springs culture. Known as an ‘intermittent river’, the Todd can go from a dry dusty riverbed to a flowing waterscape in less than 15 minutes after heavy rainfall.

When it’s dry, the famous Henley on Todd Regatta fills the sandy riverbed with handmade ‘boats’ carried by sailors. This is the world’s only dry river boating event, and it’s referenced in the ‘Silvergum Boat Race’ in the movie. Inspired by the real-life event, the characters built quirky “Flintstones-style boats” and competed in teams.

See Kangaroo in cinemas now, and start planning your NT getaway at northernterritory.com.