Why these Aussie couples have visited Uluṟu so much they’ve lost count

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For two couples, Uluṟu has been more than a destination – it’s been a spiritual touchstone across decades of changing landscapes, culture and understanding. 

Few places on Earth possess the power to transform a visitor with a single glance. Uluṟu is one of them. Towering out of the red heart of Australia, it has drawn people from every corner of the world – and left them forever changed.

Among those who have felt its pull time and again are Brian and Lynda Ralph, and June and Geoff Tidey, two couples whose journeys to Uluṟu span decades. 

First encounters with the magic of Uluṟu 

Lynda and Brian at Sounds of Silence Dinner
Lynda and Brian at the Sounds of Silence Dinner in 2004. (Image: Brian and Lynda Ralph)

When geography teachers Brian and Lynda Ralph first approached Uluṟu in the early 1970s, it was a raw, untamed experience.  

“We drove in, and it was late evening, and we thought, ‘Okay, this is huge,'" Brian recalls. But by the next morning, heavy rain had transformed the landscape.  

“We woke up, it was pouring rain, and the Rock was silver, just the way the light was in the early morning with waterfalls cascading down its sides. Unbelievable," Brian says. 

A family connection 

June and Geoff Tidey's Uluru journey
June and Geoff’s Uluru journey was inspired by their daughter. (Image: June and Geoff Tidey)

For June and Geoff Tidey, originally from Buckinghamshire in the UK, their journey to Uluṟu began much later, in 2008, sparked by their daughter, who has worked and lived in the region for the majority of the last 20 years. 

“We visited because of her," June says, “but we fell in love with the place ourselves." Over more than 10 visits, June and Geoff found Uluṟu to be both a family touchstone and a personal retreat. 

“It’s a very spiritual place, very calming," she reflects. “And it’s not what you expect. People imagine a barren desert – but it’s green, it’s full of life." 

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Watching change unfold 

campsite in 1991
Camping in 1991. (Image: Brian and Lynda Ralph)

Both couples have witnessed – and welcomed – the sweeping changes that have transformed how visitors engage with Uluṟu. For Brian and Lynda, the evolution has been profound over their seven or eight visits (they can’t quite remember how many times they’ve been). 

“In the 70s, people would just hop out of the bus and, often without a second thought, they’d climb the Rock," Brian says. 

“But now, there’s a deep respect. And the Aṉangu culture has been openly recognised and embraced, and visitors are far more conscious of the cultural importance of the site." 

“We didn’t know enough," Brian admits. “But there wasn’t much information available then. Looking back, I just regret we didn’t understand the cultural significance." 

Uluṟu Field of Light
The mesmerising Uluṟu Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro. (Image: Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia)

Brian points to the Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa’s Traditional Owners, the respectful interpretive signs, and the re-routing of roads to protect sacred sites. “It’s heartwarming," he says. “You feel like you’re being invited to experience something truly special, but with the understanding that you are a guest." 

Brian and Lynda also point out the difference in accommodation options over the years. 

“[In the early days] we were in two-man tents on red dirt and that was it, there was nothing else," Brian says. 

“Now, with Ayers Rock Resort, for people considering going there, there’s a really wide range of accommodation and pricing. There are a variety of options. We usually stay at the Outback Hotel." 

June and Geoff have visited Uluṟu more than 10 times, but the exact number is difficult to recall. They, too, have a favourite accommodation – Emu Walk Apartments – and have discovered a favourite room as well.

“We always stay in the same room – 209," June laughs. “The room is a one-bedroom apartment, it’s so good, so centrally located, we just loved it, so we’ve asked for it ever since!" 

Memories made across generations 

Brian and Lynda Ralph grandkids at Mutitjulu Waterhole
The Ralphs visited with their grandchildren in 2022. (Image: Brian and Lynda Ralph)

For the Ralphs, Uluṟu has become a part of their family’s story. They’ve returned with their children, and later their grandchildren, weaving memories of sunrise walks, Indigenous tours and quiet moments of awe into the fabric of their lives. 

“Every time we visit, we discover something new," Lynda says. “Taking our grandchildren to see the Aboriginal rock art and watch their faces light up – it’s unforgettable." 

“As teachers, we started teaching very differently as we became more and more aware of the cultural importance [of Uluṟu] to the local people and being sensitive to that," Brian tells Australian Traveller. 

The Tideys, too, have found fresh experiences on each return trip. From laidback stays at their beloved Emu Walk Apartments to memorable moments with their daughter’s family, their connection has deepened beyond sightseeing. 

“It’s not just about seeing Uluṟu anymore," June says. “It’s about feeling it. Listening, learning, respecting." 

“For the next trip, we want to do the Wintjiri Wiṟu dinner and drone show. That’s the only one we haven’t done." 

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Why Uluṟu still calls them back

Woman reflects on the significance of Uluru in 2004
“Seek to understand, not just to see." – Brian Ralph (Image: Brian and Lynda Ralph)

If they could go back to their first visits, Brian and Lynda know exactly what advice they’d give their younger selves. “Learn more," Brian says simply. “Seek to understand, not just to see." 

June, meanwhile, would advise newcomers to slow down. “Spend at least five days if you can. Have fun and join all the experiences that you can." 

Despite the years, both couples feel the magnetic pull of Uluṟu as strongly as ever. “It’s become a very special place to us," Brian says. “It always feels like coming home." 

As for future visits? “Absolutely," Lynda says. “We’ll go back again and again." 

Because some places don’t just mark the map. They mark the soul. 

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Emily Murphy
Emily Murphy is Australian Traveller's Email & Social Editor, and in her 4+ years at the company she has been instrumental in shaping its social media and email presence, and crafting compelling narratives that inspire others to explore Australia's vast landscapes. Her previous role was a journalist at Prime Creative Media and before that she was freelancing in publishing, content creation and digital marketing. When she's not creating scroll-stopping travel content, Em is a devoted 'bun mum' and enjoys spending her spare time by the sea, reading, binge-watching a good TV show and exploring Sydney's vibrant dining scene. Next on her Aussie travel wish list? South Australia and The Kimberley.
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Red earth, light shows and ancient culture: discover the ultimate NT road trip

(Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Ben Savage)

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    The Northern Territory is made for road trips, and this one hits all the highlights.

    Craggy mountain ranges, inviting waterholes, ochre soil: the landscape of the Northern Territory is asking to be explored by road and foot. There are many iconic road trips to choose from here, but none so all-encompassing than the roughly 3000 kilometres of sealed road that make up Explorer’s Way.

    Spend 14 days (or more, to really make the most of it) driving this route from Adelaide, hitting the NT near the small settlement of Kulgera before later finishing in Darwin. Along the way, you’ll find nearly all the territory’s most iconic sights.

    Discover some of the top highlights that make Explorer’s Way one of Australia’s most incredible road trips.

    1. Alice Springs

    echidna at Alice Springs Desert Park
    See the locals at Alice Springs Desert Park. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)

    Recently hitting the big screen again with the story of The Kanagroo Sanctuary, there’s a lot to surprise you in Alice Springs.

    Three distinct desert habitats – desert rivers, sand country and woodland – are recreated over 1300 hectares at Alice Springs Desert Park. Time your visit for a presentation or a free bird show.

    Later, turn your attention to the skies above, taking a dive into local astronomy at Earth Sanctuary. You’ll find a range of experiences, from a 90-minute toe-dip into the stars through to an overnight adventure.

    Alice Springs packs a surprising punch with its tasty dining options, including pub grub and unique brews at Alice Springs Brewing Co, tapas and pizza at Epilogue Lounge and tasty cafe fare at the quirky Page 27.

    2. Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park

    woman standing at Ormiston Gorge
    Dive into Ormiston Gorge. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Dom and Jesso)

    Beginning 15 minutes from Alice Springs and stretching across 161 kilometres, Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park is packed with striking ancient landscapes and inviting water holes.

    Visit Standley Chasm – traditionally known as Angkerle Atwatye, meaning ‘Gap of Water’ – to take in its bold red and orange hues, and to observe the diverse bird species, lizards and wallabies that call it home.

    Cool off in one of several picturesque natural swimming holes, like Ellery Creek Big Hole and Ormiston Gorge.

    3. Uluru & Kata Tjuta

    three women looking at Kata Tjuta at sunset
    Explore Kata Tjuta. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)

    Visiting the Cultural Heart of Australia is something everybody should experience. There are so many side trips in the Red Centre you could easily spend a week here, but to get the most out of a short time, park the car then get out on foot.

    Take the 10-kilometre Base Walk around the entirety of Uluru or join a free, ranger-guided Mala Walk along part of the base, learning about Tjukurpa (creation stories) and geology as you go.

    For a change of pace, wait until nightfall and wander through the iconic Field of Light display by celebrated artist Bruce Munro, or see the Wintjiri Wiru lightshow that shares the ancient Mala story using drones, lasers and projections.

    4. Tennant Creek

    pson looking at Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) northern territory
    See the ancient granite boulders of Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Dom And Jesso)

    Tennant Creek was Australia’s third-largest gold mining town in the 1930s, and visitors can discover that history at Battery Hill Mining Centre – and even try their own hand at gold fossicking.

    For a completely different side of history, pop into Nyinkka Nyunyu Art & Culture Centre, which preserves and shares Warumungu culture through art, performance, a museum and more.

    Just outside town, find the ancient granite boulders of Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). A site integral to important stories held by the Warumungu, Kaytetye, Warlpiri and Alyawarra peoples, the boulders appear to almost have dropped out of the sky and seemingly continue to defy gravity.

    5. Mataranka

    aerial of people swimming in bitter springs northern territory
    Dive into Bitter Springs. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Ben Savage)

    A town made famous by the novel We of the Never Never by Jeannie Gunn (and a movie of the same name), Mataranka is also known for its sandy-bottomed thermal pool, Bitter Springs, within Elsey National Park. Follow a 500-metre loop track around these spring-fed pools that stay a toasty 34°C year-round, before choosing your favourite spot to dive into. Enjoy the local birdlife while you relax.

    Elsewhere in the park, find historical sites, several scenic walks and Roper River, which is perfect for boating and fishing.

    6. Nitmiluk National Park

    Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise
    Join a sunset cruise with Nabilil Dreaming. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Lachlan Gardiner)

    Nitmiluk National Park is sandstone country, with 13 stunning gorges and plenty of waterfalls waiting to be explored.

    One of the most beautiful spots can be found along the 62-kilometre Jatbula Trail, a five-to-six day bushwalk that follows an ancient Jawoyn songline from Nitmiluk Gorge to Leliyn (Edith Falls). Numbers are restricted and book out quickly, so be sure to plan well ahead. Not up for the hike? Drive right up to the falls and enjoy a dip without the challenge.

    Elsewhere, explore Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge. Paddle a kayak through the river running through the canyon, or save your energy on a Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise, discovering the stories and ways of the Jawoyn people while enjoying a candlelit dinner as the cliffs around you shift colour and glow with the changing daylight.

    Continue your cultural journey at local art centres like Godinymayin Yijard Rivers Art & Culture Centre or Mimi Aboriginal Art & Craft.

    7. Litchfield National Park

    cathedral termite mounds in Litchfield national park
    Be awed by giant cathedral termite mounds. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ As We Wander)

    Just over an hour’s drive from Darwin lies the beautiful Litchfield National Park. It’s famous for stunning waterfalls and swimming holes, including Buley Rockhole, Wangi Falls, Florence Falls and Tjaynera Falls.

    Here you’ll also find hundreds of giant – and magnetic – cathedral termite mounds that are truly a sight to see. Ageing up to 100 years old, you won’t find mounds like these outside the northern parts of Australia. Stroll along the accessible boardwalk to see them up close.

    8. Darwin

    darwin street art
    Darwin art is streets ahead. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Mark Fitzpatrick)

    This list wouldn’t be complete without the territory’s capital city: Darwin. Situate yourself upon arrival with a stroll through the main streets, admiring the many art murals by local, interstate and international artists. They’re all remnants of the annual Darwin Street Art Festival, one of Australia’s longest running street art festivals.

    Stop to recharge along Darwin’s Waterfront Precinct, an area of delectable restaurants, public swimming pools and free events. And, of course, it would be wrong to leave the city without enjoying a bowl of laksa at Mindil Beach Sunset Market as the sun goes down.

    Learn more and start planning your Explorer’s Way road trip at northernterritory.com/drive.