Queensland’s Granite Belt road trip

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Take a road trip through Queensland’s Granite Belt to discover some of the country’s most dramatic scenery and best cool-climate wines.

Rising up to 1,200 metres above sea level, Queensland’s Granite Belt region is home to some of Australia’s most dramatic scenery and offers surprises at every turn of the New England Highway between Stanthorpe and Tenterfield.

 

This stunning landscape is the result of 200-million-year-old Triassic granite formations, where massive boulders balance seemingly precariously on top of each other. Surrounded by dense forests, it all makes for a breathtaking (and literally breath-taking) sight for walkers and photographers. Even after several trips to the area, I’ve found many reasons to return, this time heading mainly to the southern end around Ballandean. Here, some absolute highlights.

granite belt wines
Cycle in the vines. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

Girraween National Park

With its 11,800 hilly hectares of unique rock formations and hiking trails, Girraween is one of the most rewarding walking locations I’ve ever experienced. And it’s not just the drama of wondering, ‘Will these boulders topple over one day, and will I see it happen?’ (No, they’ve passed every Workplace Health and Safety check imaginable.)

 

Maybe it’s the crisp fresh mountain air; or is it the sense that you’re feeling a part of Earth’s history, where giants roamed and played skittles with these big rocks? Girraween and neighbouring Sundown National Park are all of that, and there’s a good chance you’ll come away feeling reinvigorated by the great heights of healthy exercise you’ve achieved while channelling John Denver’s Rocky Mountain High.

 

An alternative for a rewarding walk to see spectacular balancing boulders is at Bald Rock National Park adjoining Girraween, accessible from the NSW side of the border near Tenterfield (entry fee applies). Here you’ll find the largest exposed granite rock in the southern hemisphere: it’s where the giants presumably got their rocks off.

Granite Belt cool-climate wines

Granite Belt wines have come to the attention of wine lovers and critics in recent years, and with good reason. There are over 50 wineries, many with cellar door sales and tastings: just what the doctor ordered after my daytime exertions. The unique terroir with its longer growing season and deep granite soils, combined with the innovative approach of the region’s winemakers and vignerons, produces wines of elegance and complexity. Cool-climate wines as individual as a fingerprint.

 

Close to Girraween at Wyberba there’s a small cluster of wineries ideal for that post-walk tipple. Balancing Rock Wines, awarded Best Small Cellar Door on the Granite Belt by Gourmet Traveller WINE 2019, has a cute label displaying the balancing rock in its vineyard. David and Lori Broadbent offer a range of reds and whites including a highly awarded reserve sagrantino, which is definitely one for the cellar at home if you don’t drink it all first.

balancing rock wines granite belt
At aptly named Balancing Rock Wines.

Pyramids Road Wines focuses on low-volume handmade wines, the passion of Sue and Warren Smith who are expats from the Sunny Coast doing a terrific job with a big range of grape varieties, with reds like mourvèdre and petit verdot prominent. Sue laughs that, “Our friends said we had rocks in our head taking on the hard work that goes into winemaking – but now the only rocks are on our labels."

 

Girraween Estate is the love child of Lisa and Steve Messiter, who purchased the property in 2009; since then they have won top awards for their shiraz cabernet and chardonnay. They are especially proud of their fruit-driven, crisp and refreshing sparkling wines.

girraween wineries granite belt
Girraween Estate’s Steve Messiter. (Image: Shane Andersen)

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There’s something brewing (and distilling)

It’s not just about the wines of the Granite Belt. You’re very welcome to rock up to a brewery or distillery if that’s more your fancy: there are several choices including the boutique Brass Monkey Brew House, the closest to Ballandean; Granite Belt Brewery (with pub-style food, and comfortable cabin accommodation so you don’t need to drive).

granite belt brewery
Granite Belt Brewery. (Image: Geoff Davenport)

Even before a drink, you’ll think you’ve arrived in Scotland. The solar-powered castlelike building reflects the heritage of the Millar family in the British Isles and their service to royalty dating back to the 13th century. The product range includes multi-award-winning whiskies and gins (served on the rocks, naturally) plus a whole range of delicious liqueurs based on the region’s abundant fruit.

castle glen granite belt
Castle Glen.

Donnelly’s Castle – the Bushranger’s hide-out

Not far from Castle Glen you’ll find a spot called Donnelly’s Castle. You can squeeze through crevices in giant granite rock boulders, walk on top of them and enter into cave-like openings. The famed bushranger Captain Thunderbolt once used this rocky outcrop north of Stanthorpe as his hideout and it’s a hidden gem.

Add these to your itinerary, too:

Pack your Esky full of the region’s fresh organic food and artisanal, hand-crafted products. Here are some suggestions:

 

Sutton’s Juice Factory – For natural juices and handmade apple pies.

suttons farm apple pie granite belt qld
Suttons Farm famed apple pie. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

Ashbern Farms – Pick your own strawberries and enjoy yummy ice-cream.

 

Stanthorpe Cheese – For a great selection to accompany your wine purchases.

 

Mt Stirling Olives – Try the fruity, cold-pressed extra virgin oils.

 

Jamworks Gourmet Foods – For jams and relishes made from local produce.

 

Anna’s Candles – For soy-based scents.

 

Washpool Farm Soaperie – For natural products and soap-making workshops.

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Getting there

The Granite Belt region is about three hours’ drive from both Brisbane and the Gold Coast. Check out our Brisbane to Stanthorpe road trip itinerary for more ideas.

Staying there

Accommodation options within the Granite Belt area include B&Bs, cottages and lodges. If you want to get an early start for a walk at Girraween, then Girraween Environmental Lodge, Wisteria Cottage and Girraween Country Inn are close to the park entrance.

girraween environmental lodge granite belt
Stay at Girraween Environmental Lodge.

For more information visit granitebeltwinecountry.com.au and southernqueenslandcountry.com.au

 

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Phil Hawkes
Phillip Hawkes somehow survived a career in tourism marketing, managing ad agencies and PR firms in many locations including London and New York, then finally 25 years based in Hong Kong. He morphed into a travel writer 15 years ago and has had over 120 articles published, focussing on experiences in Asia/Pacific and Europe.
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8 reasons to book a stay at the reimagined Reefworld now

    Imogen Eveson Imogen Eveson
    Cruise Whitsundays’ famous Reefworld has undergone a complete transformation – here’s why it has become one of Australia’s most extraordinary places to spend the night.

    Imagine sleeping under the stars or beneath the sea, snorkelling vibrant coral gardens, and enjoying a dining experience that wouldn’t feel out of place at a top restaurant – all from a pontoon moored on the Great Barrier Reef. In a country that excels at extraordinary, immersive travel experiences, the reimagined Reefworld in Queensland’s Whitsundays has joined the upper echelons.

    Cruise Whitsundays has unveiled an extensive transformation of Reefworld, its pontoon permanently moored at Hardy Reef on the outer Great Barrier Reef.

    First opened in 2019, Reefworld is home to the famous underwater Reefsuites – Australia’s first underwater hotel – and was originally designed as a dual-purpose pontoon for both day visitors and overnight guests.

    Now, it has been transformed into an overnight-only experience, giving guests exclusive access to the pontoon and the reef, with more space, greater comfort and a more immersive way to experience this unique environment.

    The transformation forms part of Journey Beyond’s $40 million investment in responsible reef tourism in the region.

    Read on for eight reasons to book a stay at the reimagined Reefworld now.

    1. A scenic cruise through the Whitsundays

    cruise whitsundays boat on Great Barrier Reef Adventure tour
    Start with a cruise of the gorgeous Whitsundays.

    Your journey to Reefworld begins with a scenic cruise through the Whitsundays: dark-green islands daubed on an endless expanse of blue. Welcome to Ngaro Sea Country.

    Departing Port of Airlie, Daydream Island or Hamilton Island, a high-speed catamaran with priority boarding for Reefworld guests will whisk you across the Coral Sea to the outer reef.

    From next year, a new 35-metre catamaran will join the Cruise Whitsundays fleet, featuring an exclusive-use lounge area reserved for Reefworld guests. Snacks and refreshments are available onboard.

    Depending on the time of year, migrating humpback whales may pass you on your journey.

    2. A sense of arrival

    aerial view of new cruise whitsunday reefworld pontoon
    Watch as your home on the reef rolls into view.

    Around two hours after leaving Hamilton Island, the Reefworld pontoon shimmers into view on the horizon.

    As you sail closer towards Hardy Reef – where the pontoon is permanently moored – your home for the next 27 hours comes into focus, including the plush new beds where Reefsleep guests will spend the night. Anticipation builds for the unique experience to come.

    The everyday world slips away as you alight the catamaran and step onto the pontoon. Now exclusively reserved for up to 36 overnight guests at a time, it has undergone an extensive transformation.

    The sense of space, peace and quiet is palpable as you’re welcomed with a cold non-alcoholic drink. Dab your brow with a refreshing cold towel and take in the stillness – interrupted only by the sound of flying fish slapping the water’s surface.

    From the moment you arrive in the late morning, the whole place is yours to enjoy. Reefworld has been redeveloped with considered spaces designed to help you make the most of your downtime.

    On the lower deck, you’ll find a bar serving tea, coffee, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages, alongside comfy lounge areas where you can sit back and take in mesmerising reef views.

    Spend the rest of the day at leisure, relaxed in the knowledge that you don’t have to leave again until tomorrow afternoon.

    3. Elevated food and beverage (including quality coffee!)

    cruise whitsunday reefworld food offering
    Indulge in an elevated food and beverage offering onboard.

    Elevated food and drink is central to the new Reefworld experience. The all-inclusive offering focuses on high-quality regional dining.

    A seafood buffet lunch might include Hervey Bay scallops grilled in shell with garlic and herb butter or line-caught reef fish baked with lemon thyme oil.

    A signature three-course dinner paired with premium Australian wines might dish up an entrée of Whitsunday blue swimmer crab wontons with smoked salmon caviar in a butter sauce, a main of Queensland grass-fed beef-eye fillet, and a tropical coconut and pineapple confection for dessert. Dietary requirements are catered for (notify team at time of booking).

    A hot breakfast buffet offers a selection of cooked favourites, smoked salmon, cheeses, and yoghurts, fresh fruit, toast and cereals.

    All-inclusive beverages include bottled beer and cider, soft drinks and Australian wine including sparkling. Or choose from a range of premium spirits and cocktails such as the 74 Islands Limoncello Spritz, made with a liqueur crafted right here in the Whitsundays.

    Perhaps the biggest boon of all? Barista-made coffee, available from 6.30 am. Only in Australia could you order an oat flat white in the middle of a coral reef.

    4. Snorkel one of the GBR’s most diverse reefs

    guests snorkelling the great barrier reef at cruise whitsunday reefworld
    Dive into the Great Barrier Reef.

    Reefworld sits above Hardy Reef, one of the most biologically diverse outer reef systems in the Great Barrier Reef. Exploring it is a simple matter of popping on a mask, snorkel and flippers and slipping into the water straight from the pontoon.

    Being in the outer reef means the water is clear, and marine life is abundant: here you could spot giant trevally, Māori wrasse, clownfish, parrotfish, nudibranch and giant clams, as well as vibrant coral gardens.

    Snorkel at your leisure over two days. Prefer to stay above the water level? Head to the underwater observatory or join an optional semi-submersible guided tour, and you might still spot the resident two-metre-long Queensland grouper, George, doing the rounds. Or Crush, one of 12 resident green sea turtles.

    5. A luxurious sleep under the stars

    cruise whitsunday reefworld pontoon reefsleep beds
    Spend the night in one of 16 spacious, four-poster beds.

    At the heart of the reimagined Reefworld is its elevated Reefsleep experience. On the upper deck are 16 spacious, four-poster beds, replacing the earlier swag-inspired accommodation and giving up to 32 guests the chance to sleep under the stars with increased privacy and added comfort.

    With names like Parrot Fish and Spotted Ray, each Reefbed is of its place and has everything you need: not least a queen-size bed with premium linens, decked out in coastal shades befitting the location. USB charging ports, reading lights and fans provide extra convenience and comfort. The beds are set up as daybeds in the afternoon, then turned down in time for sleep.

    Double-layer canvas and mesh flaps allow you to customise your experience and exposure to the elements: zip up for maximum privacy and shelter or leave wide open to stargaze as you drift off to sleep.

    Come morning, enjoy the luxury of watching the sun rise over the reef from the comfort of the covers (if facing east).

    6. Refreshed underwater Reefsuites

    Reefsuites room at reefworld
    Let the locals form your bedroom view.

    Reefsuites is Australia’s first underwater hotel and remains among the most unique stays in the country – if not the world. Its two suites have had a glow-up as part of Reefworld’s transformation, but the floor-to-ceiling underwater views of the Great Barrier Reef remain unchanged.

    Choose between king double or twin single sleeping configurations, with premium bedding and a glass-walled en suite in each suite. This is your front-row seat to the marine life of the reef in all its nocturnal glory.

    7. A sensational sunset and canapés session

    cruise whitsunday reefworld guests enjooying sunset canapes
    Wait for sunset at Australia’s best bar.

    There’s even a designated new spot for sunset canapés. Could this be Australia’s best bar? That’s what you will be asking come evening, as you gather on the upper deck for a Sunset Canapés session.

    Reefworld’s refreshed design includes a designated space for this very ritual. Grab a drink at the bar – bubbles, perhaps, or a G&T with locally produced gin – and pull up a stool to settle in for one of the most spectacular sunsets you’ll ever see.

    Nibble on a chef’s selection of light bites as the sun puddles into the molten Coral Sea, bathing the entire pontoon in a glorious glow. It doesn’t get more golden hour than this.

    8. Extras: the adventure continues

    tour leader preparing scua diving gear at cruise whitsunday reefworld
    Choose from a range of extra activities to help you keep exploring.

    And that’s not where the adventure ends. Your Reefworld stay also includes access to the underwater observatory and a guided semi-submarine tour, plus a complimentary guided snorkel safari led by expert reef guides. For those looking to do even more, add-ons include scuba diving and scenic flights over Heart Reef, available at an additional cost.

    As part of Cruise Whitsundays’ investment in reef tourism, nearby permanent Heart Pontoon has also undergone a significant refurbishment, further enhancing the visitor experience.

    The details

    Reefworld is open now as an overnight‑only pontoon, exclusively for Reefsleep and Reefsuite guests. Stays start from $895 per person for Reefsleep and $1495 per person for a Reefsuite, based on double occupancy.

    Book an unforgettable sleep out on the Great Barrier Reef at cruisewhitsundays.com.