Haggerstone & Poruma IslandsHow & why to Visit

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More than 600km north of Cairns, if you’ve made it this far, your Marine Park voyage is regrettably almost over.

Deep into Cape York country, Haggerstone Island (www.haggerstoneisland.com.au) is less than 10km offshore, and a million miles from life as most of us know it. The only passing traffic here is fishing trawlers and long distance ocean voyagers. However, relief is at hand for adventurous travellers who tackle the arduous journey.

 

Created from the jungle at the hands of two passionate adventurers, Haggerstone is a wilderness retreat promising a unique castaway experience. Roy Turner was a frustrated shearer with a love of hunting, fishing and music before he followed his heart deep into the New Guinea wilds, hunting crocs and playing the guitar.

Disappointingly for Roy, he “had to leave the piano at home." An Englishwoman, Anna, had visited Haggerstone on an earlier shipwreck-hunting voyage with her father. They landed together on the uninhabited island in the mid 1980s with a barge-load of materials to create their island paradise.

 

Guests are welcome to join Roy and Anna and their family in one of four handcrafted huts. Switch your watch onto island time (or better still leave it at home) and allow your inner Robinson Crusoe to escape.

“We love families to come and visit," says Roy. “It’s a wonderful place for kids to run wild and barefoot." The subtle sophistication of crystal glassware and exquisite cuisine are an added drawcard for parents.

 

And finally, tiny Poruma Island is around 100km northeast from the very tip of mainland Australia at Cape York. Known as Coconut Island by local residents, Poruma Island Resort in Torres Strait is scheduled to re-open in April ’09 after a lengthy closure (www.poruma.com).

 

Getting There: Light plane from Cairns to Hicks Island, then a boat transfer to Haggerstone. To Poruma, you’ll need a private charter from Horn Island or Cairns.

This Great Barrier Reef tour is the best thing I’ve done in Australia

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Evegreen Editor Rachael Thompson travelled to the world’s largest coral reef system for a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

I recently headed up to Hamilton Island to stay at the island’s newest resort, The Sundays. What I thought couldn’t be a more perfect couple of days exploring the luxury accommodation and Whitsunday Island became an even more incredible adventure after I was also invited to jump on a helicopter for the Journey to the Heart Tour to see Heart Reef.

The adventure began on Hamilton Island. Only six people can do this experience at any given time, so we hopped in a helicopter, ready to be treated to spectacular Whitsunday views. After about 30 minutes of flying, seeing Hamilton Island and the pristine Whitehaven Beach from above, we reached the striking boundary where the reef begins, with turquoise waters and clusters of coral coming into view.

A view of Whitehaven beach from a helicopter.

Aerial views of Whitehaven Beach. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

Eventually, the pilot informed us that we were about to fly around the Heart Reef. Heart Reef was discovered in 1975 by a local pilot. This exquisite natural phenomenon is approximately 17 metres long and, as the name suggests, is shaped like a heart. I’d seen photos of Heart Reef before, on postcards and marketing campaigns. But nothing compares to witnessing its distinctive shape in person. It’s the kind of moment that makes you pause not just to take a photo, but to truly take it in.

We circled above Heart Reef a couple of times to take in the full view before landing on a luxurious, sustainably designed pontoon in a nearby lagoon — the whole experience felt very James Bond-esque.

Aerial view of Heart Reef

Heart Reef from above. (Image: Jason Hill and Tourism & Events Queensland)

We headed downstairs, where there were tables and lounges for relaxing and taking in the idyllic views. Paddi, our friendly tour guide, greeted us and ushered us onto a small boat. Paddi drove us around the surrounding reef (you can’t get too close to Heart Reef), educating us on the species living in the area. It was here that I noticed myself feeling like my child-like self who visited the reef with my family when I was 10 years old. As Paddi pointed out colourful fish and coral through the boat’s glass bottom, I found myself gasping and exclaiming, “Look how cute it is!” I felt incredibly excited and lucky to witness the workings of one of the world’s greatest natural wonders.

A pontoon sitting on the Great Barrier reef near Heart Reef.

Your tour guide will take you on a boat around the reef. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

We then headed back to the pontoon to get our snorkelling equipment and enjoy approximately 45 minutes in the water. Visitors are unable to snorkel or dive at Heart Reef due to its protected status, but the surrounding reef area is truly spectacular.

At a delightful 26.6 degrees Celsius, the water felt perfect. Parrotfish, Blue Stripe Clarkii Clownfish and needlefish playfully swam around, a large piece of coral proudly showed us its vibrant purple colour and giant clams rested serenely on the sandy seabed. With only six of us snorkelling, it was quiet and the energy was peaceful. 

A pontoon with a helicopter in the Great Barrier Reef.

Swim in pristine water and discover a myriad of marine species. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

To top off the experience, once we had finished snorkelling, we were treated to a glass of bubbles back on the pontoon, where we exchanged stories of how incredible the experience had been for each of us. 

It’s worth noting that there are no restroom facilities on the pontoon. As the excursion lasts approximately three hours, it’s advisable to plan accordingly before departure.

A view from a pontoon on the Great Barrier Reef.

Relax and enjoy a glass of bubbles while you admire the azure waters. (Image: Rachael Thompson)

At $1400 per person, this tour is definitely on the pricier end. But to be honest, it felt like a billionaire experience. Moments like this make me fall in love with Australia all over again and highlight even more how desperately this iconic part of the world needs to be protected.

Discover more incredible Great Barrier Reef tours