Go against the tide and spend a day on Normanby Island; an uncrowded, paradisaical Great Barrier Reef island that few know about.

The Great Barrier Reef comprises nearly 3000 individual reefs, around 900 islands and 300 coral cays. At its heart, Cairns is the gateway for travellers eager to witness the reef’s incredible beauty and biodiversity firsthand. From Green Island and Fitzroy Island to the Reef Magic pontoon and outer reef cruises, this World Heritage wonder draws in visitors from across the globe. Yet on one small island, south-east of Cairns, the only crowds you’ll encounter are the fish drifting among the coral, just a few flippered kicks from the shore.

By the second muffled squeal, I lift my head out of the water to check everything is okay. Our sons – aged nine and six – are only metres away from me, their snorkels pointed skyward as they float above a patch of coral. I duck my head back under and see their eyes wide with wonder. Everything is more than okay: they shriek with delight, alerting each other as they spot schools of brightly coloured fish.

One reef, many ways to see it

A few days earlier we’d visited Green Island, the beautiful coral cay just 27 kilometres from Cairns. Alongside throngs of other tourists, we hoped to experience some of the magic beneath the surface. Mother Nature had other plans. Strong winds and currents forced us to abandon our snorkels in favour of a glass-bottom boat ride. Disappointed, we pinned all our hopes on another tour later that week: the Frankland Islands.

A colleague had tipped me off earlier in the year. Despite visiting the Great Barrier Reef several times – including Green Island, Fitzroy Island and the outer reef – I’d never heard of this small, uninhabited archipelago about 45 minutes south-east of Cairns. Curious and quietly optimistic, we board a coach with around 40 other passengers, travelling to Deeral, where we’re fitted with snorkelling gear and wetsuits before boarding a small boat.

A deserted island

We keep watch for crocs as we gently cruise along the Mulgrave River, though none reveal themselves today, then shield ourselves against the spray during a short ocean crossing. Only 10 kilometres offshore within the traditional sea country of the Mandingalby Yidinji and Gungandji peoples, the Franklands comprise five islands. We land at Normanby.

We walk over soft white sand to a simple shelter, built among palm trees and mangrove forest and find tables scattered with intricate shells and pieces of hard coral collected by previous visitors. Even now, I’m unsure whether this little-known corner of the reef can rival its more famous neighbours. But that’s the beauty of the Great Barrier Reef: its greatest moments often reveal themselves once you slip beneath the surface. And judging by the shrieking, we have hit the jackpot. Our boys point to large brain coral that must be hundreds of years old, sea cucumbers and schools of darting damselfish.

Shore time

One of Frankland’s greatest appeals is that the reef sits offshore, so we can easily swim back to the beach for a break – making it perfect for families and less confident swimmers. Those who want to stay dry can board the glass-bottom boat, enjoy a guided island walk and children can join in a treasure hunt.

During some downtime, our youngest buries himself in the sand, while his older brother wanders with his dad along the shore collecting interesting pieces of coral. I daydream in the Queensland sun until I hear shouting from further down the beach. A guide is waving her hands towards a fin flapping about in the shallows. It’s a huge manta ray.

The Great Eight

We are told it’s a fortunate sighting, given the manta ray is a seasonal visitor here. It’s also one of the reef’s so-called ‘Great Eight’, which also includes clownfish, giant clams, Maori wrasse, potato cod, sharks, sea turtles and whales. We won’t find the potato cod here, but the others are fair game.

After a buffet lunch of prawns, chicken and salads, we drag two kayaks into the water and paddle around peering into the water. Just as we’re about to turn back, a turtle suddenly surfaces beside me. Now it’s my turn to contain my shrieking. I hold my breath until it eventually disappears.

Soon it’s time for one last snorkel. I am already pinching myself from what we’ve experienced so far but we are spoilt with more: giant clams, starfish and swaying anemone sheltering tiny clownfish. Then, just before our boat arrives, the manta ray makes one final appearance, its fin cutting gracefully through the water as though waving us goodbye.

Travel details

The Frankland Islands Day Tour departs daily from Cairns, dependent on tidal conditions. The experience is inclusive of coach transfer to Deeral, a scenic Mulgrave River cruise with morning tea, lunch on the island, snorkelling gear, use of kayaks and stand-up paddle boards, glass-bottom boat tour and guided walk around the island. Book through Australian Wildlife Journeys.