A Road Trip Through The Outback Towns Of Balonne Shire, Qld

While most people pass through this part of Queensland on the way to somewhere else, the outback region of Balonne Shire has plenty to offer those who choose to stay a while, from local characters to city-worthy pizza.

The Balonne Shire in Queensland’s south-west, about four hours’ drive from Toowoomba, isn’t exactly on everyone’s radar as a destination. Even the helpful lady at the RACQ office asked me where exactly it was when I requested a road map. The fact is, most tourists who come here are on their way from southern states via the inland route to the outback or north Queensland, or travelling west from Brisbane and the coast.

That’s a pity as there’s plenty to see and do, and the small villages of the Shire all have their own reasons for visitors to linger a while, take a break, and meet some really nice people. After all, that’s the beauty of regional Australia, and the reason that many of us keep heading there for a reality check. So whether you are on a road trip to somewhere else, or have decided to dedicate a few days to the area alone, here are the main places in Balonne Shire to hit up.

St George

At first glance this is a typical outback town with a main street cluster of pubs, motels, a bakery, banks, servos, an IGA and a very helpful information centre for visitors (don’t miss the unique carved and illuminated emu eggs at Stavros’s gallery, The Unique Egg, nearby). There’s also a raft of country cafes with decent espresso machines and tasty pastries. Try Stevie-Jean’s , Farmhouse, DeliCate or St George Bakery , where Trent also dishes out excellent pizzas when he’s not delivering them in his 1917 Model-T Ford.

One street away is the Balonne River, an attractive shade of brown, backing up against the Jack Taylor Weir, famous for its golden perch and Murray cod just waiting to be caught by enthusiastic anglers. There’s a pleasant riverbank walkway and you can also take a relaxing sunset tour up the river and back on a Sandytown River Cruise , with Brett providing informative commentary on the history of the town named in 1846 by explorer Major Sir Thomas Mitchell.

A highlight is definitely a visit to the Shire’s only cellar door at Riversands Wines , a family-run business which evolved from table grape production into a fully-fledged vineyard in 1996. David and Alison hold court at the cellar bar with tastings of shiraz, merlot, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and others, particularly their fortified wines including a yummy golden muscat and a moreish port.
From Riversands you can also book a Cotton Farm and Vineyard Tour where you’ll learn about cotton and grape production, as well as enjoying a tasty lunch. Well worth doing.

Balonne Shire Outback Queensland — Balonne Shire’s outback region is an under-the-radar Queensland destination.

Thallon

As you drive into this small, one-pub town you’ll be struck by the sight of the community’s pride and joy: the attractively painted grain silos which have brought photographic fame to the area. Then there’s another initiative, a huge sculpture of William the endangered northern hairy-nosed wombat which stands two metres tall, rivalling Australia’s other ‘bigs’ like prawns and bananas.
Close by is the multipurpose Francis Hotel, which serves as a pub, post office and general store as well as filling the role of the town’s visitor information centre.

Surprisingly, there’s a multicultural feel to Thallon with a contingent of farm workers, mainly from Fiji, bolstering the regular population of 55 people; if you’re lucky, as I was, they might serenade you with some island songs. According to Bullamon Plains station owner Bill Willis, they are an integral part of the Thallon community.

Thallon silo art — See the striking silo art in Thallon.

Nindigully

A short distance from Thallon is the tiny settlement of Nindigully, which has one claim to fame: it is home to Queensland’s longest continuously licensed pub, established in 1864, which sits on the banks of the Moonie River – a pleasant real-Aussie riverside location. Congenial host Burnsie and his team welcome campers and pit-stoppers to a convivial bar and beer garden where you can get to know some of the colourful local characters. If you can’t drive any further after indulging in an afternoon’s worth of ‘outback hospitality’ there are comfortable rooms available within staggering distance.

Bollon

Another of the Shire’s mini-towns, Bollon has one not-to-be-missed activity: Nullawokka First Nations Gallery and Tours. Local legend Bill Speedy, a descendant of the Gwamu/Kooma people, escorts visitors on an educational walking tour along Wallam Creek, followed by a bush tucker tasting and a final stop at the historic post office gallery, where Judith will tempt you with a wide range of artefacts and souvenirs including painted emu eggs and Aboriginal art.

Deb’s Cafe and the Bollon Heritage Centre add to a satisfying outback day before you hit the pet-friendly Bollon Hotel for dinner and overnight accommodation if you need to crash.

Dirranbandi

Known as Dirran for short, this is one of the Shire’s little gems. The evocative Aboriginal name means ‘frogs croaking in a swamp at night’, although I must admit I didn’t hear any during my stay. After you’ve discovered the best coffee and pizza in this part of the outback at Tania and Russell’s Tucka Shack, and yummy pastries at the town’s Russian bakery, you can join Dirranbandi Outback Tours on a three-hour visit to Cubbie Station.

This is an amalgam of 12 former grazing properties founded in 1984 by the late Des Stevenson covering a massive 93,000 hectares, including the largest irrigated cotton plantation in the southern hemisphere; the commentary by tour operators Scott and Nikki details facts about cotton production and water management in this part of Queensland which give you a lot to think about considering the recent drought.

There’s been a great civic effort by the local Arts Council to preserve the original railway buildings in Dirran and create a sculpture park at the terminus of the last mail train to operate in Australia in 1993. It’s a must-see and a good place to walk off that pizza!

For more heritage and art, continue 45 minutes south-west to Hebel and check out artist John Murray’s trompe-l’œil murals at the quirky Hebel Hotel and public art piece, the Hebel Historical Circle.

Nindigully emus — Meet the residents of Outback Queensland.

Getting there

Driving to St George takes about four hours from Toowoomba without stops; or less than six hours from Brisbane. You can fly from Brisbane or Toowoomba on Rex Airlines.

Staying there

There are numerous hotels and pubs in Balonne Shire offering accommodation, as well as free and paid camping sites. Find out more here.

City buzz, gourmet trails, surf breaks and art scenes are all at your fingertips.

When it comes to planning a trip, picking a holiday destination is the easy part. The real dilemma is where to set yourself up for the night. Do you go coastal, city, or countryside? Somewhere remote and rugged, or right in the action? Luckily, the Sunshine Coast, and huge number of amazing Sunshine Coast day trips, have kindly made the choice for you.

Ditch the hotel-hopping and suitcase-lugging. Instead, base yourself at Novotel Sunshine Coast or Mantra Mooloolaba , where big-city culture, vine-covered valleys, and theme parks are all within a two-hour drive.

1. Sunshine Coast to Brisbane

Drive time: 1 hour 20 minutes (105km)

Shake off the sand from your sandals and swap the beach for the throb of the Queensland capital. Ease in gently with a bougainvillea-filled stroll through South Bank, iced latte in hand, before cooling off at Streets Beach lagoon – Brisbane’s answer to the coast (but without the waves).

Once firmly in big-city mode, hit up the Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA) , home to Australia’s largest collection of modern and contemporary artworks. Dive into the past at the Queensland Museum, where prehistoric fossils of Australian dinosaurs and megafauna collide with First Nations cultural collections and interactive science exhibits.

All this learning got you hungry? Howard Smith Wharves calls. Here, riverside dining delivers breweries with meat-forward menus, Japanese fine dining and overwater bars. If you’ve got room for more, Fortitude Valley’s shopping boutiques await you and your wallet.

woman walking around Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA) — Wander the Gallery of Modern Art. (Image: TEQ)

2. Sunshine Coast to the Scenic Rim

Drive time: 2 hours 15 minutes (170km)

Make your way inland to the Scenic Rim for the state’s best vineyards and age-old volcanic slopes. Start your day early (like, sparrow’s breakfast early) at O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat in Lamington National Park . Here, take a treetop walk through the canopy and hand-feed the wild birds who flock here.

Next, it’s your turn to eat. Here, the food scene operates where locally sourced produce is an expectation, not an exception. Order a picnic basket crammed with regional wine and cheese to devour next to the creek at Canungra Valley Vineyards . Or perhaps a grazing platter of vegan and non-vegan cheeses at Witches Falls Winery .

Feeling bold? Tackle the Twin Falls circuit in Springbrook National Park. Or keep the gourmet life going with a Scenic Rim Brewery tasting paddle, best enjoyed while taking in the rise of the Great Dividing Range.

woman with cheese and wine at Witches Falls Winery — Enjoy a cheese platter at Witches Falls Winery. (Image: TEQ)

3. Sunshine Coast to the Gold Coast

Drive time: 2 hours (180km)

Surf, sand and sparkling skylines might be the Gold Coast’s MO, but there’s more to Surfers Paradise and beyond. Kick things off with a beachfront coffee at Burleigh Heads, then hike through Burleigh Head National Park to look over the ocean and whale sightings (dependent on the season, of course).

Cool off in the calm waters of Tallebudgera Creek before chowing down on the famously buttery Moreton Bay bug rolls at Rick Shores . Travelling with the kids? Then you can’t miss Australia’s theme park capital, with Dreamworld ’s big rides and Warner Bros. Movie World ’s Hollywood treatment at hand to keep the family entertained.

aerial view of Tallebudgera Creek — Dive into Tallebudgera Creek. (Image: TEQ)

4. Sunshine Coast to Tweed Heads

Drive time: 2 hours 15 minutes (200km)

Dare to cross enemy lines? Then welcome to New South Wales. Tweed Heads blends the laid-back attitude of the Northern Rivers with high-quality dining, experimental art, and farm-fresh indulgence – a combo worth the drive.

Start strong with a long, lazy brunch at Tweed River House , then swing by Tropical Fruit World for exotic finds like red dragon fruit, handfuls of lychees and black sapote. Next, hit M|Arts Precinct – an art deco hub of micro galleries, artist workshops and one-off boutiques.

Round off the day with sunset drinks at Husk Distillers among the glowing cane fields, and order one with their famous Ink Gin. You’ll thank us later.

exterior of Husk Distillers — Taste the famous Ink Gin at Husk Distillers. (Image: Destination NSW)

5. Sunshine Coast Hinterland

Drive time: 1 hour (70km)

Strap on those hiking boots and make tracks inland, where volcanic peaks, misty rainforest and hinterland townships beckon. Ease in with the Glass House Mountains Lookout Walk, or, if you have energy to burn, tackle the Mount Ngungun Summit Walk for a 360-degree sight of the surrounding summits.

Next: Montville. This township delivers European-style architecture and old-world appeal. Nearby, settle in at Flame Hill Vineyard, where a large pour of estate-grown wine comes with encompassing views of the countryside.

Not ready to leave the hinterland villages just yet? Of course not. Meander past art galleries and indie shops at Maleny. Nab some fudge from Sweets on Maple for a sweet fix. Or go salty at Maleny Dairies with a farm tour and a chunky wedge of their deliciously creamy cheese.

End the day among the eucalypts and rainforests of Kondalilla National Park. Here, the Kondalilla Falls Circuit winds down through trees humming with life to a rock pool beneath a waterfall – as if designed for soaking tired feet before heading back to the coast.

view of Mount Ngungun on the scenic rim queensland — Take on the Mount Ngungun Summit Walk (Image: TEQ)

Start planning your Sunshine home base at all.com.

A road trip through the outback Queensland towns you’ve never heard of