The Clare Valley is arguably Australia’s most underrated wine region, and this overlooked gem boasts plenty of historic charm, natural beauty, and, of course, delicious riesling.
A mere 90 minutes or so in the car north of Adelaide, the Clare Valley (luckily!) still scoots just under the radar. This laid-back pocket makes an unhurried retreat of Aussie bush and rolling vineyards, stone buildings and intriguing history, cellar doors, good food, bike trails and country hospitality. Here’s how to make the most of it.
1. Eat local fare at Clare Valley’s eateries
The Clare Valley has no shortage of fantastic eateries. If you’re looking for a winery lunch, venture down a sun-dappled back road that leads past vines curving away on the slopes of hills (‘planted to the contour’ in vigneron speak) to the 1860s cottage of Skillogalee ; a winery, restaurant and cellar door. Slate slabs cool the wisteria-draped verandah and there are tables beneath the sprawliest-ever olive. Indulge in fresh black pasta with Port Lincoln sand crab followed by Estate Muscat with vanilla ice cream.
Another food option is to join the savvy locals at Seed Winehouse + Kitchen , where the menu (slow-cooked lamb shank with lemon pepper couscous, or fettuccini Brussel pasta) has a similar farm-to-fork freshness. And the bar has a real buzz.
Enjoy a delicious outdoor lunch at Skillogalee. (Image: Tourism Australia / South Australian Tourism Commission)
2. Ride the Riesling Trail
When the sun’s shining and there’s that crackle of heat in the bleached grass, cruising along on a bike is like being a kid again. The 35-kilometreRiesling Trail rail is peppered with postcard views, wineries, cafes and plenty of signage along the looping route; Watervale to Penwortham is rated one of the prettiest sections. You can hire bikes at Auburn, Clare and Sevenhill.
Not down to cycle? No worries! Pack a picnic basket and stroll for a while before tossing down your rug under a shady tree.
This 35-kilometre trail traverses the picturesque Clare Valley wine region. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)
3. Wander the wineries of Clare Valley
Riesling aficionadas will loveclos Clare Wines in Watervale andCrabtree Wines. Stop by the region’s oldest vineyard, the Jesuit-runSevenhill, which started in the 1850s and is still going strong. The quirkyMad Bastard Wines specialises in Shiraz. For wine with sweeping scenery, lunch on the deck atPaulett Wines. For art with your wine visitPikes.
There are approximately 50 wineries in the region, but it’s not all wine. Craft beer and cider are bubbling up. Try the Tonic Ale (with lemon peel and ginger) fromPikes Beer Company.
Sevenhill Winery is the region’s oldest. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)
4. Discover Mintaro’s magic
The tiny town ofMintaro has spades of character in its timeworn slate buildings, vast Moreton Bay fig trees and old-world gardens. Visit Mintaro Maze if you have the kids in tow, or delve into the past at the palace in a paddock, Martindale Hall, where the ’70s classic Picnic at Hanging Rock was filmed.
We also recommend sharing a lazy lunch atReilly’s Wines. Nibble on gourmet platters in the leafy courtyard that boasts vineyard views.
Built in 1879 – 1880, Martindale Hall has significant heritage value in South Australia. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)
5. Explore Flinders’ history in Burra
Burra’s wide streets, stone buildings, and tree-lined creek are a backdrop for country folk in cowboy boots and battered hats, and grey nomads stopping en route to the Flinders Ranges. You can get your urban-fix coffee atSt Just Café or enjoy a veritable tea party at colourfulGood Golly Miss Polly. For organic juices and wraps head to Burra Fresh, while several shops are piled with collectables, curios, and gifts for those who like to fossick. Art lovers should swing by the Burra Regional Art Gallery , housed within a restored 1860 Post and Telegraph Office.
Burra Regional Art Gallery showcases 12 new exhibitions each year. (Image: Josh Geelen)
6. Visit the iconic pink lake of Lake Bumbunga
Just a half-hour drive from the valley will take you to the breathtaking Lake Bumbunga. This picturesque salt lake flies under the tourist radar, yet it’s one of South Australia’s most exquisite natural phenomena. There’s a viewing platform at the edge of the lake so you can admire the lake and snap some envy-worthy photos. Keep an eye out for the “Loch-Eel Monster" sculpture.
Lake-Bumbunga is one of Australia’s most intensely pink lakes. (Image: Olivia Reynolds)
7. Stay over
A swag of heritage cottages and houses are dotted all around the Clare. There’s Watervale’s upmarketStanley Grammar Country House, converted stables at historicBungaree Station, original miners’ cottages in Burra and even the stylish loft-styleIrongate Studio B&B in Mintaro.
Stanley Grammar Country House is a luxury bed and breakfast accommodation in the heart of the wine region. (Image: Stanley Grammar Country House)
Margaret is a Melbourne-based writer with serious case of wanderlust, who loves hotels – from high end to quirky off-grid retreats – cutting- edge design, a Campari soda and a banana lounge with an uninterrupted view of the pool. While she loves galleries, museums and the buzz of big cities, she is also often dreaming of Tulum, or the Aeolian Islands.
The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.
There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd . In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.
Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.
‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.
Exchanging city chaos for country calm
The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)
I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.
I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.
The trails and treasures of the Grampians
Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)
Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.
Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles . I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.
Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)
There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail , Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.
Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.
“There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.
Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)
We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.
Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)
The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.
What else is on offer in The Grampians?
Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)
You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.
And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region ? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).
Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)
Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.
The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.
Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)
There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.
The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.
Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.
And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.
Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)
You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.
A traveller’s checklist
Staying there
Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity .
