Inside Southern Ocean Lodge's stunning rebuild

Embedded in the coastal wilderness of Kangaroo Island, the reimagined Southern Ocean Lodge celebrates community, creativity and place like never before.

You don’t forget your arrival at Southern Ocean Lodge. Almost five years since I was first here, I’m walking towards the double-entry doors again as they are swung open for the big reveal. Crossing the threshold, the coastal wilderness of the Southern Ocean is unveiled in all its raw, expansive glory: the lodge’s Great Room setting the stage for drama.

It’s a moment designed to evoke emotion. But the emotion is twofold for returning guests who, like me, visited this luxury lodge on the wave-carved south-west coast of Kangaroo Island before it was razed to the ground in the 2019-2020 Black Summer Bushfires.

A pioneer of luxury, sustainable and experiential tourism in South Australia, and – with its fierce community focus – a game changer for the island, Southern Ocean Lodge (a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia) had not long ago celebrated its 10th anniversary when the catastrophic fires struck. But within days, buoyed by the support of the tourism community and guests around the world, founders James and Hayley Baillie, of Baillie Lodges, committed to rebuild their flagship property.

sunrise views over Southern Ocean Lodge — Southern Ocean Lodge reopened in 2023 after being destroyed in the Black Summer Bushfires that devastated Kangaroo Island. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Southern Ocean Lodge 2.0 opened in December 2023, almost four years to the date of the fires. And it bears almost the same footprint as the original incarnation on the island’s limestone cliffs. The Baillies partnered with Kangaroo Island-born architect Max Pritchard and the team from Max Pritchard Gunner Architects to work on the rebuild along with several key designers.

The aim was to recreate the essence of the lodge and elements that had always worked well while adding new features and design alterations made with the benefit of hindsight. Underscoring everything, the new lodge needed to be futureproof: tackling the challenges of a changing climate and being embedded in the environment in an even more considered way.

Faithfully recreated to the point of uncanny – it feels like it never wasn’t here – the Great Room remains the beating heart of the lodge. Its sink-into-me Ghost Chairs are poised to take in 180-degree views through floor-to-ceiling windows and its cast iron suspended fireplace remains the centrepiece. Along with Sunshine, the kangaroo sculpture that greets you upon entry, made by local artist Indiana James from an old combine harvester, the fireplace was one of few items to survive the fire.

The lodge is a celebration of local creativity, community and place. Adelaide design master Khai Liew’s bespoke lounges that curl around the fireplace, taking cues from the undulating coastline, are among many considered design details.

The ‘help-yourself’ walk-in wine cellar – packed floor-to-ceiling with up to 1200 bottles sourced from across South Australia’s wine regions, including Kangaroo Island itself – was always a highlight for guests. It has now been rebuilt and restocked. I peruse the bottles – an installation depicting a shoal of Southern Ocean whiting by Adelaide glass-blowing artist Llewelyn Ash swimming above my head – and pick a Hobbs of Barossa Tin Lids Aria Secca shiraz to take to dinner.

a glass of gin from Kangaroo Island Spirits — The house gin was concocted by Kangaroo Island Spirits.

The restaurant flows on from the Great Room and boasts a 125-metre limestone feature wall crafted by Kangaroo Island resident Scott Wilson – a stonemason and also a sheep farmer and supplier of marron (freshwater crayfish) to the restaurant. Helmed by executive chef Tom Saliba, the lodge’s menus, too, are a celebration of local and regional produce.

a look inside the restaurant at Southern Ocean Lodge — Meals are served in the airy restaurant. (Image: George Apostolidis)

An ever-changing menu that rolls with the seasons might feature local King George whiting, saltbush gnocchi or Coorong beef. Tom maintains relationships with existing suppliers – such as the local Parndana Campus, where students sustainably farm barramundi, and Kangaroo Island Living Honey, which produces honey from the world’s only purebred colony of Ligurian bees.

a close-up of a dish at the restaurant inside Southern Ocean Lodge — The menu is driven by the seasons. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Chef Tom is excited to work with new suppliers in the community, such as Kangaroo Island Mushrooms and Juniper Rise, a produce garden that supplies microgreens and vegetables. Tom took the reins as executive chef at Southern Ocean Lodge just months before the fires and was committed to coming back from day one.

The intervening years saw stints in the kitchens of sister properties in the Baillie Lodges portfolio, such as Capella Lodge, Longitude 131° and Silky Oaks Lodge, in between return trips to the island to play a part in the rebuild. With each visit, Tom says, seeing the regeneration of not just nature, but local businesses and hearing about new suppliers opening up, was exciting. “And the homecoming has been great. To see the similarities but the differences as well," he says.

the pool at Southern Ocean Lodge — Enjoy a refreshing dip in between adventures. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Key differences at Southern Ocean Lodge lie in the addition of a wet-edge pool and a more spacious Southern Spa with three treatment rooms, a sauna, and hot and cold plunge pools. Further up the clifftop lies the new ultra-premium Baillie Pavilion, which can be booked as a whole four-bedroom residence or as two separate suites. It is the ultimate private retreat that emulates the feel of the lodge itself, complete with a scaled-down version of the Great Room.

the Great Room at Southern Ocean Lodge — The Great Room is the heart of the lodge.

The remaining 23 suites, which peel away down the coastline, have been reoriented to optimise views. Facing south-east, my Flinders Suite is a study in quiet luxury and intuitive design with a calming palette of neutral limestone, warm blackwood and storm blue inviting the outdoors to take centre stage.

the Flinders Suite lounge, Southern Ocean Lodge — A Flinders Suite looks out over the Southern Ocean. (Image: George Apostolidis)

My suite is ensconced in the coastal heath, and its sunken lounge, deep tub and private deck each provide optimal spots from which to take it all in. But nothing can compare to lying in a bespoke Baillie Bed in cloud-like linens watching the sun rise over the roiling ocean – next stop Antarctica, sea spray shimmering in the buttery first light – or falling asleep at night to a percussive lullaby of crashing waves.

Southern Ocean Lodge has always championed local artists, but 2.0 sees more bespoke commissions line its walls than ever. The signature kangaroo-print fabric from artist and designer Julie Paterson, of Cloth – which formed a foundational design element of the original lodge – has been lovingly reinstated in each guestroom and beyond. That her work is inspired by the strength and diversity of the Australian landscape is fitting.

relics from the collection of Artist JanineMackintosh — Artist Janine Mackintosh collected relics from the burnt site and arranged them into plaques.

Mandalas made by Kangaroo Island assemblage artist Janine Mackintosh from eucalyptus leaves, seeds and shells once again line the limestone walls of the restaurant, while a wall of found objects marks the entrance to the Southern Spa: remnants gathered from the aftermath of the fire that have been given new life and beauty. Elsewhere, Indiana James, too, has fashioned items found in the ashes, from stainless-steel lotion pumps to serving utensils, into a spirited metal lyrebird sculpture, Lyre Lyre Pans on Fire.

artwork details, Southern Ocean Lodge — The rooms boast contemporary artworks. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Taking a sneak peek at the Baillie Pavilion, I’m spellbound by a series of works by artists from the remote An-angu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara Lands in the north-western corner of South Australia that were commissioned by Hayley Baillie.

the Ocean Pavilion West, Southern Ocean Lodge — The Baillie Pavilion features paintings by artists from the APY Lands. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Completed following a visit to the site in 2021, these large-scale paintings swirl with life in an interpretation of the landscape I haven’t seen before.

one of the artworks displayed at Southern Ocean Lodge — Southern Ocean Lodge stands as a beacon of art and design. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Not the green, blue and surf-white triptych that floods the retina at first blink, but pink clay, lilac, plum, sage and all shades of sand. I make a mental note to take a close look at the landscape and the colours of its flora as I comb the coastal scrub myself.

the freestanding bath at Osprey Suite, Southern Ocean Lodge — The stunning Osprey Suite has ocean views from the freestanding bath. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Above all, Southern Ocean Lodge is a base from which to immerse yourself in its surrounding nature. We visit Seal Bay Conservation Park to observe its colony of sea lions porpoising in the surf and snoozing on the sand. And head into Flinders Chase National Park on a half-day Wonders of Kangaroo Island experience to visit the fur seals of Admirals Arch and the sculptural granite marvels – dusted with their distinctive orange lichen – known as Remarkable Rocks.

a portrait shot of a sea lion — Embark on a Seal Bay safari. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Ninety per cent of this national park at the western end of Kangaroo Island was destroyed in the bushfires, but the opening of a $19.5 million state-of-the-art visitor centre in July 2024 marked a significant milestone in bushfire recovery. And a signature Koalas and Kangas experience provides the chance to feel heartened by the bounce-back of our beloved marsupials at Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary and the historic property of Grassdale.

the view from the Clifftop Walk, Southern Ocean Lodge — The lodge comes into view from the Clifftop Walk. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

On my final morning here, I head out from the lodge on a clifftop walk through coastal heath, waves crashing vertiginously below while ospreys soar overhead. The return leg offers a fresh perspective as Southern Ocean Lodge comes back into view: its low profile hugging the contours of the coastline.

Among the raft of leading environmental initiatives ensuring the new-look lodge stays completely off-grid and fit for the future – including its hybrid solar and battery infrastructure, rainwater harvesting supplemented by a reverse osmosis system that converts bore water to fresh water, and a state-of-the-art bushfire sprinkler system – is a 20-metre wilderness buffer planted with fire-retardant native succulents and the island’s own endemic juniper.

Fresh growth is everywhere. But some chalky skeletal trees remain in the line of sight as a visible scar and a potent reminder of what went before. My eyes are pulled back down as I spot a pair of dolphins frolicking in the waves. I soon realise they are leading me back to Southern Ocean Lodge, which sits gently in the landscape like a lighthouse: a beacon of resilience and hope.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Just 15 kilometres from mainland South Australia, Kangaroo Island is accessible via a 40-minute Qantaslink flight from Adelaide/ Tarndanya or a 45-minute Sealink ferry transfer from Cape Jervis.

Staying there

A stay at Southern Ocean Lodge is all-inclusive of breakfast, lunch and dinner with menus that change daily, an open bar with premium wines and spirits and an in-suite bar that is replenished daily. Rates also include signature guided experiences of Kangaroo Island and return Kangaroo Island Airport transfers, including access to the lodge’s exclusive airport lounge before departure. The wheelchair-accessible Flinders Suite features level floors, a modified bathroom and close proximity to the main lodge. Rates start at $2950 per suite per night based on two guests staying. Southern Ocean Lodge is a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia.

Playing there

Signature Experiences include the half-day wonders of Kangaroo Island, Seal Bay Safari, Coastal Clifftop Walk, Koalas and Kangas, a guided tour of Kelly Hill Caves and a Taste of SA Wine. Experiences at additional cost include the four-hour remarkable hike, Nocturnal Explorer and Beach Fishing.

Hikers can also set out on a variety of self-guided walking trails that leave from the lodge doorstep, and those looking to explore further afield can book a full-day private itinerary with the lodge’s own experiences team, or renowned operators KI Touring Company and Exceptional Kangaroo Island. Don’t forget to peruse the Southern Spa menu of indulgent treatments that make the most of Kangaroo Island’s prized natural beauty products for a spot of TLC after all that adventuring.

With more than 60 nationalities calling it home and a century of Italian influence shaping its paddocks and plates, Griffith is a regional Australian town with serious culinary cred.

It might feel surprising to learn that Griffith is one of Australia’s leading food destinations. In-the-know Italians have understood this for generations, drawn to the Riverina region’s fertile soils that reminded them of the terrain they’d left behind more than a century ago. These days, Griffith supplies much of the nation’s pantry: 95 per cent of Australia’s prunes come from the region, it’s the country’s largest citrus-growing area, and it’s a leading producer of almonds and walnuts. Even the pickles in every McDonald’s burger nationwide are produced in Griffith. This is not just a farming town; the Griffith food scene is leading the way.

Here, culinary confidence is rooted in migration. Italian families began arriving from 1913, with a second wave settling after the Second World War. Today, Griffith has the highest proportion of Italian ancestry of any Local Government Area in Australia. Add to that more than 60 nationalities represented across the community and you have a town where food is driven not by trends, but by tradition. Griffith’s motto, ‘Taste our culture’, isn’t marketing spin; it’s the reality.

Where the vines tell a story

A hand pouring wine into a glass, with a table filled with food. — Uncover the stories behind every glass. (Image: Destination NSW)

The Riverina has long been dubbed the food bowl of Australia, but it’s also a wine region that remains largely under the radar. What sets Griffith apart is that every one of its wineries is family-owned, many spanning generations.

Calabria Family Wines is one of the region’s standard-bearers. The Calabria story began in 1945 when Francesco Calabria planted his first vines; today, the family continues to shape the region’s identity while also stewarding the historic McWilliam’s Wines brand. McWilliam’s was the first winery to plant vines in the area, and its barrel-shaped cellar door – complete with a soaring stained-glass window – remains one of the most distinctive in regional NSW.

Yarran Wines, run by the Brewer family, showcases estate-grown fruit across Mediterranean varietals that thrive in the warm climate. Expect bold reds and textured whites that reflect both heritage and innovation.

Set inside the old ambulance station, Harvest HQ is owned and operated by the Riverina Winemakers Association and pours a rotating selection of local wines under one roof. It also features spirits from The Aisling Distillery, reinforcing the region’s collaborative approach to craft.

At the table

A flat lay of a steak. — Dine where tradition meets a bold new generation. (Image: Visit Griffith)

If the vineyards tell one story, the dining rooms tell another. Griffith’s restaurants are where tradition and next-gen confidence meet.

Zecca Handmade Italian occupies the former Rural Bank building, an imposing Art Deco landmark from the late 1930s. ‘Zecca’ means money print, and the name is a nod to the Zecca di Venezia in Venice. Here, find the Riverina’s only producer of dried artisan pasta and traditional Italian recipes. Importantly, the growers and producers supplying the kitchen are listed on the menu as a transparent expression of the region’s farm-to-table ethos.

Established in 1977 and still run by the Vico family, La Scala puts authentic Italian cuisine on centre stage. Expect handmade pasta, traditional wood-fired pizzas, slow-cooked sauces and dishes that follow recipes guarded like family heirlooms. For something more contemporary, Bull & Bell in Gem Hotel is a shrine to the Euro-style steakhouse that works closely with local farmers and artisans to showcase Riverina produce.

And then there are the institutions. Bertoldo’s Pasticceria, now in its third generation, draws locals daily for cannoli, biscotti, crostoli and house-made gelato, alongside classic sausage rolls and potato pies. La Piccola Grosseria feels like stepping into an Italian alimentari, its shelves lined with continental goods that wouldn’t feel out of place in Puglia.

Meanwhile, Limone celebrates local and seasonal produce across breakfast and lunch menus, enriched by the produce and stories of Piccolo Family Farm. Find pastries and sourdough baked daily, and pop into the onsite retail pantry for products from regional producers – including the Piccolo family’s own wine range, Caro Piccolo.

From the source

A plated Aquna Sustainable Murray Cod dish. — Taste world-renowned Aquna Sustainable Murray Cod, straight from its source. (Image: Visit Griffith)

Behind every menu is a producer. Aquna Sustainable Murray Cod is perhaps Griffith’s most high-profile export; the brand’s Murray cod and Aquna Gold Murray Cod Caviar have achieved global recognition. In October 2024, Aquna presented its products to King Charles III and Queen Camilla at the NSW Premier’s Community BBQ in Parramatta. Impressed by the producer’s sustainable farming practices, the King requested the cod be sent to Buckingham Palace – not bad for a fish farm in regional NSW.

Mandolé Orchard champions almonds grown on a family-run farm, transforming them into almond milk and value-added products. At Morella Grove, olives are pressed into premium olive oil and pantry staples that speak to Griffith’s Mediterranean heart. These producers are not peripheral; they are central to the town’s culinary ecosystem. Learn about local sustainable farming practices during a farm tour.

Mark your calendar

A woman walking past a food mural, something you can spot during A Taste of Italy Griffith. — Plan your visit around A Taste of Italy Griffith. (Image: Visit Griffith)

For a town that helps stock Australia’s supermarkets, Griffith has remained curiously absent from the national dining conversation. That’s beginning to change. If you’ve been searching for a regional food destination with substance, heritage and a clear sense of identity, you’ll find it here in the Riverina, right under your nose.

Time your visit to the Riverina region to coincide with A Taste of Italy Griffith, held every August. This week-long celebration of Italian heritage and culture offers a wide range of Italian-inspired events and experiences to enjoy. Expect long-table lunches, wine tasting experiences, cooking classes and a Makers in the Piazza market. The headline event is a ticketed long lunch – Festa delle Salsicce (Salami Festival) – where winners of the best salami are announced.

Start planning your foodie getaway at visitgriffith.com.au.

Rising from the ashes: inside Southern Ocean Lodge’s stunning rebuild

Embedded in the coastal wilderness of Kangaroo Island, the reimagined Southern Ocean Lodge celebrates community, creativity and place like never before.