What Makes Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary So Special?

With a thriving colony of friendly yellow-footed rock wallabies, jaw-dropping lookout points and some of the clearest night skies on earth, this unique property stands alone even in the wild and ancient landscape of the Flinders Ranges.

From the gently sloping hills around Mount Remarkable, the Flinders Ranges grow progressively more rugged and remote as you head north. By the time you arrive at Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park some 600 kilometres north of Adelaide, it feels like you’re on another planet. Only a few rugged 4WD tracks created by mineral prospectors traverse this forbidding Martian landscape and the absence of settlements in the area means you can expect gloriously clear night skies. In 2023 Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary became Australia’s second certified Dark Sky Sanctuary and a range of tours and accommodation options make it the obvious base from which to explore the region.

The backstory

a guided tour at Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary — Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary lies on the traditional lands of the Adnyamathanha people. (Image: Tourism Australia/ South Australian Tourism Commission)

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary and Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park lie on the traditional lands of the Adnyamathanha people, who called this region home for tens of thousands of years before the first European explorers arrived in the 1840s. They were quickly followed by prospectors searching for gold, copper and precious stones before the quest for uranium brought several prominent geologists to the region. Among them was Antarctic explorer Sir Douglas Mawson, who declared the region “the gem of the Flinders Ranges" and “a geologist’s paradise".

A densely packed collection of hulking pyramids and razor-sharp peaks, the Gammon Ranges were created by volcanic activity up to 1.6 billion years ago and the landscape is older, wilder and more colourful than the main body of the Flinders Ranges. Mawson considered this open-air museum so important that he lobbied the state government to grant it special protected status, as did his student Reg Sprigg (later Dr Reginald Sprigg AO). When the government declined, he purchased the Arkaroola property in 1967.

Arid conditions and rugged terrain meant that it was never prime pastoral land and over the following years, he destocked the 60,000-hectare property and began removing invasive species to rehabilitate the land. The construction of Arkaroola Village and the Arkaroola Observatory brought tourism to the property, which is still managed by Reg Sprigg’s son Doug. An onsite statue of Douglas Mawson is flanked by rocks from his two favourite places on earth – Arkaroola and Mt Erebus in Antarctica.

Arkaroola accommodation

the bathroom and bedroom at Callitris suite, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary — Bed down in the Callitris suite. (Image: Matthew Storer)

Despite the property’s isolation, Reg Sprigg’s vision made him a pioneer of tourism in the region and the Arkaroola accommodation options are surprisingly varied for such a remote location. The modern and well-kept guest rooms come in several sizes: the comfortable Callitris suites have a queen bed, while the roomier Mawson suites can sleep up to four with the addition of a single and trundle bed. With 19 basic rooms built around an enormous common area, the budget-friendly Greenwood Lodge is ideal for larger groups, as are the four standalone cottages.

If you’re towing a caravan, the Arkaroola caravan park has 50 large powered sites and a sprawling 300-hectare campground with plenty of sites arrayed along the banks of a dry creekbed. Guests have access to a camp kitchen, ablution block and laundry as well as the swimming pool and all facilities in Arkaroola Village.

Arkaroola Village and facilities

an aerial view of Arkaroola Village — Impressive geological formations surround Arkaroola Village. (Image: Matthew Storer)

Nestled between several outcrops of deep red rock, Arkaroola Village is a sight for sore eyes after the long, dusty drive in.

A small shop, fuel bowsers (plus an EV charging station), and repair workshop take care of the essentials, while the timber-lined Pick & Shovel bar is the first stop for many visitors and kids will love the in-ground pool out back. The adjoining Native Pine restaurant is filled with artefacts from the property’s rich history and offers a traditional Sunday roast in addition to a range of pub classics. And be sure to visit the small room in the rear to see a collection of rare glow-in-the-dark minerals.

The rest of the village was clearly designed by someone who loves geology – there’s a gem cave, rock gardens and rock walls displaying the many types of local stone and how they were formed. A free museum is packed with astronomical and geological information, but most visitors are more interested in the viewing area out back. Every evening, yellow-footed rock wallabies from a nearby colony hop down to enjoy a free feed, presenting a rare opportunity to see these shy but beautiful mammals up close.

Arkaroola Ridgetop Tour

While the main body of the Flinders Ranges is defined by gorges snaking through a narrow line of sedimentary mountains, the passage of untold millennia has transformed the Gammon Ranges into a complex labyrinth of peaks and troughs. The rough-as-guts 4WD tracks here require tremendous skill to navigate, and the best way to get a feel for the region is from the seat of an open-top Landcruiser on the four-and-a-half-hour Arkaroola Ridgetop Tour.

While experienced guides wrestle their vehicles up the near-vertical trails forged by enterprising uranium hunters, you’ll be free to look out the sides and admire the wilderness of ancient mud volcanoes and jagged pyramids with silvery green foliage spilling down the sides.

Many of the creeks and ponds are carved so deep into the earth that they feel completely enclosed from the outside world, but as you climb upwards, you’ll start to catch glimpses of glittering salt lakes between the brick-red peaks. You might want to find something to cling to when the driver tackles a terrifyingly steep path up an exposed ridge to reach Sillers Lookout, but once up top, you can stretch your legs and enjoy some lamingtons and tea while marvelling at the incredible views created by the sheer 150-metre drop below.

Arkaroola Observatory

Tucked far away from the bright lights of any city (or even town), Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary offers plenty to do long after the sun has set, especially if you’ve timed your visit to coincide with the new moon. The lack of light pollution, arid climate and elevation make for some of the best night skies in the world, and NASA scientists access information from the Arkaroola Observatory daily. Fortunately, you don’t need to be a rocket scientist to enjoy this spectacular light show.

If you’re still finding your way around the cosmos, the 90-minute Under The Stars Stargazing experience includes comfortable reclining chairs and speciality astronomy binoculars so you can gaze at the heavens in comfort as you get your bearings. Or step things up on the Observatory Tour, which uses a high-powered telescope that can see far into the night sky and brings you up close to stars, planets and other celestial bodies. And if you prefer to stay inside, the Digital Astro Experience lets you enjoy a real-time digital representation of the night skies from the comfort of the Ningana Imaging Observatory.

camping under the stars at Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary — Fall asleep under the whimsical starry night sky. (Image: Matthew Storer)

If you’re after a more exclusive experience, the Arkaroola Ridgetop Tour Sleepout takes you on a 4WD journey to a remote campsite where you can watch the landscape fill with colour over sunset drinks and sit down to a gourmet dinner around the campfire. Then you can spend the evening watching the night skies through a telescope before falling asleep on an open-air swag deck and waking up to sunrise from Sillers Lookout.

Getting to Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

an aerial view of a vehicle driving through Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park — Pass through beautiful scenery on your way to Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

The 630-kilometre drive from Adelaide to Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary takes eight hours, so most visitors break up the journey with a stop in the Clare Valley or southern Flinders Ranges. The final section of the road is unpaved, and travellers have two main options. A 150-kilometre dirt track from Blinman passes through beautiful gorges and stark flatlands bordered by salt pans that provide a taste of outback adventure, while the 130-kilometre unsealed road from Copley is graded more frequently and passes the community of Nepabunna.

Either route can be driven with a 2WD, but a raised vehicle with 4WD will make the drive significantly more comfortable, especially as there is no phone reception if you run into trouble. A small shop at Arkaroola Village carries some basic supplies, but it’s a three-hour round trip to the nearest supermarket, so it’s vital to stock up on supplies ahead of time.

For more inspiration and itinerary tips, read our travel guide to the Flinders Ranges.

Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

walking trails in the Yarra Valley — You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy — Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy — A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate , I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate — Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

kangaroos in Yarra Valley — Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

the Yarra Valley vineyards — Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway — The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

Playing there

the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley — Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art . Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

Eating and drinking there

Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station — The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)

What makes Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary so special