The essential guide to visiting the Flinders Ranges

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There are great rafts of information published about the Flinders Rangers. Here’s our distilled guide to the essential Flinders Rangers experiences, accommodation and dining options.

Top Five Reasons to Visit the Flinders Ranges

1. It’s the most accessible Outback in Australia, with excellent infrastructure and loads to see and do.

 

2. The ancient rocky landscapes are geographical marvels. Wilpena Pound from the air, the gorges and further north forms of uranium in some rocks are some amazing sights.

 

3. The best 4WD driving in the country, from easy to extremely challenging, half-day to multi-day journeys.

 

4. The walking is some of the most pleasurable outback walking in the country. There’s loads of wildlife. The Heysen trail starts here.

 

5. It’s historically rich. The Manhattan Project scientists were all over the northern Flinders Ranges during the war. Famous explorer Douglas Mawson saw glacial rocks in the Flinders that led him to his more renowned Antarctica expeditions.

Top Five Experiences in the Flinders

1. The Ridge Top Tour, Arkaroola, Northern Flinders Rangers

An outrageously rocky one-way 4WD track has been cut through the Northern Flinders. Piling into the back of a specially designed open top 4WD for the 4.5 hour journey is about more than just appreciating awesome scenery. Guides unearth the amazing geology, flora and fauna in the area. The history of the pioneering characters like Mawson and some of his students (like R S Sprigg who developed the tour) is an insight into one of the many unappreciated eras in Australian history. The highlight is arriving at the fall-off-the-cliff Sillar’s Lookout. Just make sure you’ve been to the bathroom before you leave because climbing to the top is a rough ride and a full bladder is the LAST thing you want.

2. Wilpena Pound Scenic Flight

See the Pound at its best with a morning flight around the edges of the bowl-shaped crater – not formed by a volcano or meteor but the earth’s shifting crust.

Bird's eye view, flying over Wipena Pound, Flinders Ranges

Bird’s eye view, flying over Wipena Pound, Flinders Ranges.

3. Sunset on the Chase

Another fierce 4WD (lucky someone else is driving) up to the top of the Chase Ranges to look back at Wilpena Pound and the Elders Ranges as the sunsets. In AT’s opinion, it’s better than the rock sunset. Catered by Rawnsley Park’s Woolshed Restaurant, this two-hour trip is best done with special someone.

4. Arkaba Walking Tours

It’s comfortable walking when you have your own guide and a swag waiting at the end of the day. Wine and dinner is done, all you need to do is carry water and lunch. The guides take you to secret treasures of the ranges, catering each walk to your desired comfort level.

5. Discover an Ancient Land

The full-day tour from Rawnsley Park takes you to the spectacular Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorges. Keep an eye out for Yellow Footed Rock Wallabies, Emus and Euros while learning more about the history and geology of the place.

Best Places To Stay

Rawnsley Park Eco Villas

The Eco Villas on Rawnsley are the best value accommodation in the Flinders and are indulgent without being excessive. The huge spaces are great for relaxing after a tough day touring, set up with all the amenities you could want. Sit in the big bed and look up at night to see though the skylights to the stars – just magic. Beautifully designed and crafted, the villas are excellently positioned to take in the sunrise on the Elder ranges.

Wilpena Pound Resort

Recently updated, the old Chalet is now a resort. The Brachina Rooms are our pick but they’re also the closest to the resort reception and restaurant. Try and grab one away from the main entry for a little more privacy. The resort is comfortable but not plush and is the perfect base for exploring the area. From here you can strike out into the pound, take a flight or explore the historic old homesteads.

Arkaba Station

Well, this is living the high life. With just five rooms and a maximum number of 10 guests, this is intimate, exclusive and luxury in the Flinders. The ethos of the station is to make guests feel like a rich uncle has thrown them the keys to a manor and said help yourself. And you do. With a chef on hand for all meals, two hosts and two guides for walking, it’s not hard to enjoy yourself. The 1851 homestead has been beautifully restored and each room has its own quirks. Whether you want a cosy dinner under the stars or a guide-led activity, the ranges are your oyster.

Prairie Hotel, Parachilna

More known for its food than furnishings, the hotel has very comfortable and well-appointed rooms for travellers. The only downside is that they are on the plains fringing the ranges.
From $145 per double

Camping

There are loads of Camping grounds throughout the rangers. The most well maintained are at Wilpena Resort, Rawnsley Park and Arkaroola. Arkaroola also has cottage and lodge accommodation options.

Where to Eat

Woolshed Restaurant

The restaurant in the middle of the outback caters to all tastes and budgets and is a thriving regional hub for all travellers.

Prairie Hotel

World renowned for the Feral Mixed Grill where a camel sausage, emu pattie, goat chop and kangaroo fillet are all dished up on the very foreign mash potato. And for dessert, the quandong pie is a must. The restaurant has carved out a deserved reputation for serving up one of the great outback meals.

Characters

The Sprigg Family

The Sprigg Family (RJ started the private Arkarolla Wilderness Are in 1967) have a huge historical connection to the land and were pioneers of tourism in the area. Unfortunately, RJ passed away in 1994. His children, Margaret and Doug continue the tradition of preserving a spectacular wilderness and can be found at the homestead on most days. They have great yarns to tell.

The Smith Family

Tony and Julie Smith are fifth-generation Flinders Ranges Pastoralists. Passionate farmers, Tony and Julie have moved their business into the tourism sector. Typical farmer, Tony is quietly spoken but a fantastic operator. He and Julie are legends in the area and if you get the opportunity make sure you buy Tony a beer and ask him about the golden fox of the Flinders Ranges.

The Rasheeds

Like the Spriggs, the Rasheeds are synonymous with the area. Original settlers of the Wilpena Chalet, the twin sons of founder Keith and Dean ran separate entities in the area. Both have sold out of their interests but remain in the area. Keith is still involved in the Air Wilpena operation and is well-known for the pink headband on his Akubra and a pink jeep.

The 8 best Flinders Ranges accommodation for any budget

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Hit the hay at these incredible stays.

Stretching 430 kilometres from Crystal Brook in South Australia’s mid-north to the glittering salt lakes on the edge of the Simpson Desert, the Flinders Ranges is a vast and alluring region that simply begs to be explored. One of the most accessible parts of the Australian outback, it’s a land of sun-bleached river reds towering over arid plains, ancient mountain ranges that light up with a fiery glow every evening and a night sky illuminated by millions of stars.

But settlements are few and far between in this vast wilderness, so it’s vital to do a little planning when deciding where to stay. Whether you’re looking for five-star luxury, a family-friendly caravan park or a remote campsite to share with the local wildlife, read on and you’ll find the perfect Flinders Ranges accommodation option for every type of trip.

1. Arkaba Homestead

Price: $$$$$

If you want to get a taste of outback life without roughing it in the slightest, start saving up to visit this former sheep station that’s been transformed into a 25,500-hectare wildlife conservancy.

the Arkaba Station in the Flinders Ranges

Arkaba Homestead is formerly a sheep station. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

There’s only room for ten guests at a time in the 1851 Arkaba homestead, and they have the run of the property with included activities including guided bush walks, 4WD safari drives and birdwatching excursions.

an aerial view of the luxury lodge in Arkaba Homestead

Go off-grid at Arkaba Homestead. (Image: Isaac Forman)

Add in meals prepared by a chef who makes liberal use of the onsite garden, an inviting outdoor pool and an extensive wine selection and this eco-retreat boasts everything you could want (except wi-fi, because the owners want guests to get out and explore).

the luxury lodge in Arkaba Homestead, Flinders Ranges

There’s only room for ten guests at a time. (Image: Isaac Forman)

2. Rawnsley Park Station

Price: $-$$$$

You could spend weeks exploring the 12,000-hectare property at Rawnsley Park Station, and almost as long checking out all of the accommodation options.

the Rawnsley Park Station in the Flinders Ranges

Immerse yourself in nature at Rawnsley Park Station. (Image: Rawnsley Park Station)

A well-vegetated campground and budget cabins are perfect for families travelling on the cheap, while the comfortable holiday units are a step up and include decks so you can enjoy views of the weathered sandstone ranges that encircle the property.

the deck at Rawnsley Park Station accommodation

Enjoy outback views from your deck. (Image: Rawnsley Park Station)

But once you greet the day with mobs of roos and brilliantly coloured ringneck parrots circling the roomy decks outside the premium eco-villas, you won’t want to leave.

a woman standing in the outdoor pool area at Rawnsley Park Station

Cool off after a busy day. (Image: Rawnsley Park Station)

3. Prairie Hotel

Price: $$$$

More than simply a place to stay while visiting the region, this legendary pit stop is a destination in itself.

an aerial view of the Prairie Hotel in the Flinders Ranges

The Prairie Hotel is a destination in and of itself. (Image: Tourism Australia/South Australian Tourism Commission)

Thousands of travellers make the pilgrimage to the onsite restaurant every year to sample a smorgasbord of native proteins, but it’s worth sticking around until sunset to see nearby ranges glowing bright red like a giant ember.

an al fresco seating and dining at Prairie Hotel, Flinders Ranges

Relax with a drink in hand. (Image: Tourism Australia/South Australian Tourism Commission)

Once night falls, relax with a drink in the stylish private lounge before retiring to one of the Prairie Hotel’s country chic rooms decorated with cowhide rugs and contemporary artwork.

a top view of the Prairie Hotel, Flinders Ranges

Prairie Hotel is a legendary pub and accommodation. (Image: Tourism Australia/South Australian Tourism Commission)

4. Wilpena Pound Resort

Price: $$$

Love the idea of camping but not so keen on long drops and creepy crawlies? Then the circle of 15 glamping tents at Wilpena Pound Resort has your name on it.

a woman relaxing inside her tent at Wilpena Pound Resort

Go glamping at Wilpena Pound Resort.

Each safari tent includes a kingsize bed, ensuite bathroom, fridge and aircon so you can relax in comfort, but the private deck and firepit keep you connected to the natural environment.

a couple sitting by the fire outside their tent at Wilpena Pound Resort

Sit by your private firepit.

You’ll also find a bricks-and-mortar resort and campsites at the only accommodation located within Ikara (Wilpena Pound), and a range of guided tours run by the Adnyamathanha traditional owners help you to take in both the sublime natural beauty and the rich cultural history.

a guided tour at Wilpena Pound

Join a guided tour around the scenic Ikara (Wilpena Pound).

5. Jacka Brothers Brewery Guesthouse

Price: $$$

Founded in 1840, Melrose is the oldest town in the Flinders Ranges and it’s no surprise that it also housed the region’s first brewery. After lying vacant for some 90 years, the bar in the fortress-like four-storey brewery recently began pouring beers again and the former bottling plant next door is also being put to good use. Now functioning as a boutique B&B, Jacka Brothers Brewery Guesthouse has four spacious bedrooms arrayed around an enormous common area that’s ideal for entertaining. And while original elements including giant timber trusses and solid masonry have been preserved, a thoroughly modern kitchen and ensuites allow guests to enjoy a very comfortable stay.

6. Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

Price: $-$$

At the far northern end of the Flinders Ranges, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is the main hub of the breathtakingly beautiful Gammon Ranges.

an aerial view of the Arkaroola Village

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is the main hub of the Gammon Ranges. (Image: Matthew Storer)

A caravan park with powered sites and bush camping gives you front-row views of the 60,000-hectare property, while those who prefer a roof over their heads can choose from a range of suites, incredibly well-priced motel-style rooms and several self-catering cottages.

camping under the stars at Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

You can sleep under the stars. (Image: Matthew Storer)

Just don’t expect to spend a lot of time inside: days are spent tackling the 4WD tracks that cross this formidable landscape and nights are devoted to starwatching at one of three onsite astronomical observatories.

Under The Stars Tour at Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

Stargaze at one of three onsite astronomical observatories. (Image: Matthew Storer)

7. Leigh Creek Outback Resort

Price: $

One of the last stops before the tarmac gives way to the Strzelecki and Birdsville Tracks, the former coal mining town of Leigh Creek once boasted a population of 5000 but is now home to fewer than 100 permanent residents. The upside of that is that guests at the Leigh Creek Outback Resort can access the local swimming pool, gym and tennis and squash courts.

Less a traditional resort than a collection of ’70s-era motel rooms and cabins spread over several streets, it also has an affordable restaurant and is located near the supermarket and shopping precinct.

the bedroom at Leigh Creek Outback Resort

Rest your head at the budget Leigh Creek Outback Resort.

8. Flinders Ranges Motel

Price: $

Quorn is one of the first major towns you’ll encounter as you approach the Flinders Ranges from the south, and the grand two-storey pubs lining the main street give a sense of its former importance. A dozen motel rooms located behind the town’s former mill are basic but spacious, and the location at the end of the main street means it’s a short walk to all the main sights. Friendly owners Paul and Kylie can point you in the right direction if you want some local tips, but don’t be surprised if you find yourself tempted to stay in and play with Fez the friendly house cat instead.

For more inspiration and itinerary tips, read our travel guide to the Flinders Ranges.