8 awe-inspiring things to do in the Flinders Ranges

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An open-air adventure playground, classroom and art gallery rolled into one, the Flinders Ranges has something for everyone.

Whether you’re looking for thrilling outdoor adventures, ancient fossils and vibrant contemporary artworks or epic lookout points where you can feel like the last person on earth, the range of things to do in the Flinders Ranges is limited only by your imagination. Hike, bike and 4WD through rugged rock country before camping out under the stars, or feast on native produce and learn about the rich cultural history on a guided tour with the Adnyamathanha traditional owners. The choice is yours.

1. Lose Yourself in Ikara (Wilpena Pound)

 

the steamy core of Ikara (Wilpena Pound), Flinders Ranges
Appreciate the vast amphithe­atre of moun­tains that is Ikara (Wilpe­na Pound). (Image: Emile Ristevski)

Rising from the earth like the cone of an ancient volcano, Ikara (Wilpena Pound) is eye-catching even from a distance. But it’s not until you’re in the centre of the pound that you truly appreciate its full beauty. Surrounded by sheer walls of 800-million-year-old quartzite, this serene valley feels completely cut off from the surrounding ranges.

A dozen Ikara (Wilpena Pound) walks range from an interpretive trail showing how both Adnyamathanha people and European settlers survived in this arid land to more strenuous full-day treks that cut through mallee and native pine forest before climbing steep rock walls to reveal seasonal waterfalls and magnificent views both inside and outside the pound.

Adnyamathanha traditional owners ask visitors not to climb to the summit of St Mary Peak due to its cultural significance, but you can get even better views without working up a sweat on the Ikara (Wilpena Pound) scenic flights that depart throughout the day and let you take in the majesty of the site in one grand sweep.

2. Follow mountain bike trails in the Flinders Ranges

kangaroos in a canola flower field, Melrose
Spot Kangaroos as you cycle through Melrose on the Remarkable Epic Trail. (Image: Karen Von Bertouch)

The area around Mount Remarkable National Park in the southern Flinders has long been a hub for mountain bikers, and a pump track near the Showgrounds is a good spot to practice your skills before tackling the network of trails that crisscross the slopes above.

One hundred kilometres of single track ticks off every skill level from gentle cross-country to gnarly ridges and rock chutes, and the iconic Dodging Bullets even lets you ride through a ruined house.

But it’s the Remarkable Epic Trail that has riders flocking from around the country, a 39-kilometre beast that throws in 1500 metres of elevation change as it climbs the eastern face of Mt Remarkable, traverses the western flank, then descends into Spring Creek Gully and loops back beneath Gibraltar Rock and into Melrose. If you don’t want to bring your own gear, Over The Edge offers tours and has 40 bikes (both conventional and e-bikes) for hire.

3. Visit Flinders Ranges ghost towns

Couple explore Farina Historic Town
Find a bakery operating in the ruins of the Farina Historic Town during the winter. (Image: Tourism Australia)

When winter rains come to the Flinders Ranges, the rust-coloured mountains are covered with a low carpet of greenery, and the local fauna quickly multiplies to take advantage of the abundant food. A boom and bust cycle has also characterised human settlements in the region, many of which disappeared once drought hit or mineral seams were mined out.

Stroll the empty streets of once-thriving townships like Hammond and Beltana, and you can only imagine their former glory, while a visit to the ruins of the remote Nuccaleena Mine is a decidedly eerie experience. Just beyond the northern tip of the ranges, a team of volunteers in Farina is helping to reverse the decline by bringing the ruins to life and operating a bakery for eight weeks every winter.

4. Disappear into the gorges of Ikara-Flinders Ranges

the scenic Brachina Gorge in Ikara Flinders Ranges National Park
The scenic Brachina Gorge is tucked at the northern end of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

From afar, the Flinders Ranges look like an impenetrable fortress, but once you begin exploring the area, you’ll discover innumerable gullies, gulches and gorges worn through the rock over millions of years.

The steep-sided walls of Brachina Gorge at the northern end of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park don’t merely provide a convenient way to cut through the mountains. They also lay bare 130 million years of geological history. A 20-kilometre Geological Trail points out the fossils, folds and faults that shaped this landscape, and the trail includes a Golden Spike that marks the official boundary between geological eras (the only one in the Southern Hemisphere).

Further north, scenic Parachilna Gorge connects the centre of the ranges with the flat red plains of the outback beyond. Filled with striking rock formations and gum-lined creekbeds, this photogenic spot is one of the best free campsites in the Flinders Ranges. If you visit in the early morning or late afternoon, you may even be lucky enough to see yellow-footed rock wallabies hopping between the rocky outcrops.

5. Tackle one of the many Flinders Ranges walks

Kids in Ikara-Flinders Ranges
There are walks and tours to suit even the youngest explorers. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Winding all the way from the Fleurieu Peninsula to Parachilna Gorge, the 1200-kilometre Heysen Trail is one of the longest hiking trails in the world, and the mountainous northern reaches take in some of South Australia’s most spectacular scenery.

But if you don’t want to commit to a multi-day trek, there are plenty of shorter Flinders Ranges walks worth tackling as well. It only takes an hour to reach the vibrant ochre and charcoal paintings at Akurra Adnya (Arkaroo Rock) or the narrow defile between sandstone walls at Alligator Gorge.

Those up for a more challenging option can follow a rocky creekbed to a series of tranquil permanent waterholes filled with shockingly cool water at Blinman Pools, while the strenuous climb up to Rawnsley Bluff rewards hikers with expansive views out over the surrounding ranges.

6. Stargaze at Arkaroola Observatory

the Arkaroola Astronomical Observatory under the starry night sky
Discover the secrets of the cosmos. (Image: Maxime Coquard)

Ever looked up at the night sky and wondered how the great explorers of old used the heavens to navigate? Or how civilisations from the Greeks to the Aztecs turned the stars into a connect-the-dots picture book of larger-than-life heroes? You can ponder these and other, bigger questions while falling asleep under the night sky at campgrounds across the Flinders Ranges. Or you can unlock the secrets of the cosmos at Arkaroola Observatory .

The complete absence of light pollution means that you won’t need any help to see the dark emu hidden in the smear of stars that make up the Milky Way, and specially designed reclining chairs and powerful observatories provide the perfect setting for passionate guides to reveal the mysteries of the star-filled sky.

No matter how much time you set aside to take in the sweeping views of this colourful eroded mountain range, it’s never quite enough. But you can make them last a little longer by stopping in at Hawker on the way home and visiting Jeff Morgan Gallery .

Among the supersized murals on display is a breathtaking 360-degree panorama that covers 46 metres of canvas and has its own lookout tower. It’s a chance to enjoy this spectacular landscape without the flies or heat, and Morgan’s brushstrokes help to soften the edges of this sometimes harsh landscape. Even better, the pieces for sale let you enjoy the glorious views from home.

8. Take the 4WD tracks off-road for a different perspective

an aerial view of a 4WD driving along Bunyeroo Valley, Flinders Ranges
Drive some of the finest 4WD tracks in Australia, including Bunyeroo Valley. (Image: Emile Ristevski)

Rocky terrain, razor-thin ridges and some seriously steep slopes mean the best 4WD tracks in the Flinders Ranges rank among Australia’s finest. Things go from mild to wild quickly, but novice 4WDers can get their bearings on graded roads through Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorges.

More experienced offroaders can tackle tracks on private properties, including Willow Springs Station , Bendleby Ranges and Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, which let you undertake a real challenge, safe in the knowledge that help is never too far away.

But if you want to visit the most spectacular lookout point in the entire Flinders Ranges, you’ll need to let a guide take the wheel. That allows you to take your eyes off the road and enjoy the scenery as the Arkaroola Ridgetop Tour crawls above sheer drop-offs into terrifyingly deep valleys before emerging at the breathtaking Sillers Lookout, which affords views deep into the ranges and out over the seemingly endless plains beyond.

Alexis Buxton-Collins
Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
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Why winter is the best time to be on the New South Wales coast

NSW’s beach towns take on a new kind of magic when the cooler months hit.

Autumn and winter cast a whole new light on the New South Wales coastline. The sun hangs lower, the shadows stretch longer and the air is crisp and fresh. The frenetic summer crowds are gone, and the rhythm slows to the pace of a leisurely winter bush walk through still, damp quiet. From wineries pouring winter reds to the annual whale migration up the ‘humpback highway’, here’s why winter on the New South Wales coast is better.

Winter on the NSW South Coast

Winter down south means misty dawns, sipping a flat white on the beach. The thrill of a whale spotting from the headlands and evenings spent slowly savouring Shoalhaven’s wines by the fire.

Start in Kiama, where waves crash into the famous Blowholes. This natural spectacle is achieved when underground pressure and swell unite, sending sea spray soaring above the basalt cliffs. This means, due to larger waves, you’re even more likely to see an explosive display in winter.

two people standing in front of kiama blowhole
See Kiama’s blowholes in full force. (Image: Destination NSW)

Inland, the Minnamurra Rainforest Walk in Budderoo National Park is all subtropical forest and trilling lyrebird song. Make sure to walk silently along the elevated boardwalks, past winter-swelled creeks and the tangled roots of fig trees. You might just hear one of the musically talented birds mimicking your footsteps.

Feeling adventurous? Book a session at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures for a wobbly walk through the canopy on Australia’s highest zipline.

Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures on the new south wales south coast
Walk among the tallest trees. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, it’s time to take the speed down a notch with a drive over to the historic village of Berry. It’s been a beloved stop for generations of Sydneysiders heading south, as has the obligatory stop at its famous doughnut van for crisped, cinnamon goodness. If you’re ready for something a little more chunky, stroll right past the boutiques (okay, go on, just one quick peek) to Milkwood Bakery . Their flaky pastries and all-day breakfasts are best enjoyed under cream-coloured fringed umbrellas.

Back in Kiama, you’ll also find modern Middle Eastern share plates at Miss Arda , and next-level burgers on The Hungry Monkey ‘s extensive menu: an ode to everything pattie-shaped.

End the day at The Sebel Kiama on the harbour. The apartment-style rooms come with full cooking facilities — a welcome addition for families looking to test out the local produce they picked up along the way. Including, but not limited to, vintages from nearby Crooked River Wines .

The Sebel Kiama exterior
Sleep by the harbour.

Winter on the Mid-North Coast

A trip up north is a gentle one at this time of year. You’ll still feel that sunshine warming your shoulders, but the lower temperatures make space for rainforest walks, vineyard lunches and long coastal hikes. All without that pesky humidity.

First stop? It has to be the town of Port Macquarie. Start by marking out a stretch of the nine-kilometre coastal walk you want to tackle (or do the whole thing), which winds from Town Beach to the lighthouse along rugged headlands and quiet beaches. Hot tip: binoculars. Don’t forget them if you want to partake in some close-up sightings of dolphin pods or whales migrating up the ‘humpback highway’.

Port Macquarie Coastal Walk, winter on the New South Wales coast
Wander the Port Macquarie Coastal Walk. (Image: Destination NSW)

Swap sea for canopy at the Sea Acres Rainforest Boardwalk , one of the last remaining pockets of coastal rainforest in the state. The accessible elevated trail passes under climbing ferns and tangled strangler figs, and is alive with scarlet robins, goannas and diamond pythons – if you’re lucky, you might see one slipping through the leaf litter.

Afterwards, lunch is sorted at Cassegrain Wines , where crisp whites and elegant reds are grown using a blend of French winemaking tradition and Australian innovation. After a tasting, saddle up for a horse ride through the estate.

port macquarie koala hospital
Meet Koala Hospital inhabitants at their temporary home. (Image: Destination NSW)

The beloved Koala Hospital is rebuilding, so meet its furry patients in their temporary bushland abode at Guulabaa – Place of Koala . Here, you can see rehabilitation up close and learn how one of Australia’s most iconic animals is being carefully rewilded and protected.

Back in town, Whalebone Wharf  serves up fine dining with serious views to go with your oysters. Prefer something breezier? Bills Fishhouse + Bar does everything from blue swimmer crab toast to zucchini noodles drizzled in basil and wattleseed pesto. Down by the waterfront, Little Shack slings ceviche, mushroom burgers and fish tacos with casual aplomb.

At the end of it all, check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie , right in the heart of town. From here, everything’s walkable. Just park the car, pop your keys in your pocket, and stroll down to the beach.

bed at Mercure Centro Port Macquarie
Check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie.

Winter on the Central Coast

On the Central Coast, expect to explore oyster farms that sit on estuaries, beaches that stretch empty for miles, and the kind of surprise sightings of whale sprays that can stop a hiker in their tracks.

The best way to settle into this slower rhythm is with the Bouddi Coastal Walk , an 8.5km trail that dips through rainforest and eroding cliffs. It’s made for unhurried walkers and long-lens photographers.

Up the coast in Terrigal, it’s prime time to spot humpbacks on the move. Join a cruise or find your own perch — Crackneck Lookout and Norah Head Lighthouse are both local favourites.

a humpback whale breaching on the central coast
Spot migrating humpback whales. (Image: Destination NSW)

Travelling with kids? It would be sacrilege not to visit the Australian Reptile Park . Here, Elvis the saltwater crocodile reigns supreme, and the venomous snake talk somehow manages to be simultaneously terrifying and fascinating.

If that isn’t enough to wear them out, zip and climb your way through Treetops Adventure Central Coast , a ropes course in the canopy of Ourimbah State Forest. Afterwards, steady your nerves with a garden tasting at Firescreek Botanical Winery , where fruit- and flower-infused wines are served under the trees.

Switch earth for sea and hop on a boat tour with Broken Bay Pearl Farm . Once you’re out on the water, you’ll learn how pearls are cultivated and have a hands-on lesson in grading and shucking.

woman holding a pearl at Broken Bay Pearl Farm
Get a hands-on pearl lesson. (Image: Destination NSW)

As the day winds down, grab a seat at Yellowtail in Terrigal , which takes seasonal native produce and presents it with Asian flair. Prefer something simple? Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination. Find an impressive breakfast and lunch menu, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce.

Stay the night at Pullman Magenta Shores , between the ocean and the lake. There are plenty of ways to relax, with a massage at the day spa, a poolside beanbag and a round or two at the golf course.

restaurant at Pullman Magenta Shores central coast
Eat well at Pullman Magenta Shores’ restaurant. (Image: Destination NSW)

Winter in Wollongong

Wollongong does contrast pretty well. One moment you’re walking beneath an enormous Buddha, the next you’re ordering soju a few blocks from the surf. It’s a town where skydivers land on beaches, trails lead to paddocks and winter days stretch long and clear beneath the Illawarra cliffs.

If you’re coming from the north, start by crossing over the Sea Cliff Bridge. Curving dramatically out like a jutting ‘C’ out above the water means you won’t be able to resist pulling over (safely, in designated lookouts) to gaze down at the waves crashing on the cliffs below.

Just inland is the serenity of the Nan Tien Temple , the largest Buddhist temple in the Southern Hemisphere. You can trace the prayer path, explore the temple gardens and sip delectable Kam Quat Tea in the quiet light at the Dew Drop Inn Tea House.

monk teaching tai chi at Nan Tien Temple
Learn about Buddhist practices. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, dust off that cowboy hat. It’s time for the Darkes Forest Riding Ranch . Take a guided canter via trail rides among peppermint gums and paddocks. If you’re happier to look at animals than ride them, Symbio Wildlife Park has red pandas dozing in trees, kangaroos that hop up to you and lessons on conservation.

The brave among you shouldn’t miss Skydive Australia – Wollongong . A free fall over the coast via tandem jumps before tumbling down to the sand is a breath-stopping thrill. Prefer to keep your feet on the ground? Check out the program at Wollongong Art Gallery , which delivers contemporary and Aboriginal exhibitions in the centre of town.

monkey at Symbio Wildlife Park
Hang out with the locals at Symbio Wildlife Park.(Image: Destination NSW)

As evening settles in, nab a table at Baby Face Kitchen . It has an ever-changing set menu, with dishes like hand-picked mud crab with white asparagus and salty brown butter, to sheep’s milk and honey ice cream. For something more casual, Dagwood Bar + Kitchen brings the fun with Korean fried chicken, sake cocktails and weekly all-you-can-eat bao buns.

Check in to Novotel Wollongong Northbeach , right by the sand. With a beachfront pool and ocean views, it’s an ideal base for whatever pace you choose.

Novotel Wollongong Northbeach
Fall asleep listening to the waves.

Winter on the New South Wales coast starts with a cosy place to stay. Start planning your adventure at all.com.