An open-air adventure playground, classroom and art gallery rolled into one, the Flinders Ranges has something for everyone.
Whether you’re looking for thrilling outdoor adventures, ancient fossils and vibrant contemporary artworks or epic lookout points where you can feel like the last person on earth, the range of things to do in the Flinders Ranges is limited only by your imagination. Hike, bike and 4WD through rugged rock country before camping out under the stars, or feast on native produce and learn about the rich cultural history on a guided tour with the Adnyamathanha traditional owners. The choice is yours.
1. Lose Yourself in Ikara (Wilpena Pound)
Appreciate the vast amphitheatre of mountains that is Ikara (Wilpena Pound). (Image: Emile Ristevski)
Rising from the earth like the cone of an ancient volcano, Ikara (Wilpena Pound) is eye-catching even from a distance. But it’s not until you’re in the centre of the pound that you truly appreciate its full beauty. Surrounded by sheer walls of 800-million-year-old quartzite, this serene valley feels completely cut off from the surrounding ranges.
A dozen Ikara (Wilpena Pound) walks range from an interpretive trail showing how both Adnyamathanha people and European settlers survived in this arid land to more strenuous full-day treks that cut through mallee and native pine forest before climbing steep rock walls to reveal seasonal waterfalls and magnificent views both inside and outside the pound.
Adnyamathanha traditional owners ask visitors not to climb to the summit of St Mary Peak due to its cultural significance, but you can get even better views without working up a sweat on the Ikara (Wilpena Pound) scenic flights that depart throughout the day and let you take in the majesty of the site in one grand sweep.
2. Follow mountain bike trails in the Flinders Ranges
Spot Kangaroos as you cycle through Melrose on the Remarkable Epic Trail. (Image: Karen Von Bertouch)
The area around Mount Remarkable National Park in the southern Flinders has long been a hub for mountain bikers, and a pump track near the Showgrounds is a good spot to practice your skills before tackling the network of trails that crisscross the slopes above.
One hundred kilometres of single track ticks off every skill level from gentle cross-country to gnarly ridges and rock chutes, and the iconic Dodging Bullets even lets you ride through a ruined house.
But it’s the Remarkable Epic Trail that has riders flocking from around the country, a 39-kilometre beast that throws in 1500 metres of elevation change as it climbs the eastern face of Mt Remarkable, traverses the western flank, then descends into Spring Creek Gully and loops back beneath Gibraltar Rock and into Melrose. If you don’t want to bring your own gear, Over The Edge offers tours and has 40 bikes (both conventional and e-bikes) for hire.
3. Visit Flinders Ranges ghost towns
Find a bakery operating in the ruins of the Farina Historic Town during the winter. (Image: Tourism Australia)
When winter rains come to the Flinders Ranges, the rust-coloured mountains are covered with a low carpet of greenery, and the local fauna quickly multiplies to take advantage of the abundant food. A boom and bust cycle has also characterised human settlements in the region, many of which disappeared once drought hit or mineral seams were mined out.
Stroll the empty streets of once-thriving townships like Hammond and Beltana, and you can only imagine their former glory, while a visit to the ruins of the remote Nuccaleena Mine is a decidedly eerie experience. Just beyond the northern tip of the ranges, a team of volunteers in Farina is helping to reverse the decline by bringing the ruins to life and operating a bakery for eight weeks every winter.
4. Disappear into the gorges of Ikara-Flinders Ranges
The scenic Brachina Gorge is tucked at the northern end of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)
From afar, the Flinders Ranges look like an impenetrable fortress, but once you begin exploring the area, you’ll discover innumerable gullies, gulches and gorges worn through the rock over millions of years.
The steep-sided walls of Brachina Gorge at the northern end of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park don’t merely provide a convenient way to cut through the mountains. They also lay bare 130 million years of geological history. A 20-kilometre Geological Trail points out the fossils, folds and faults that shaped this landscape, and the trail includes a Golden Spike that marks the official boundary between geological eras (the only one in the Southern Hemisphere).
Further north, scenic Parachilna Gorge connects the centre of the ranges with the flat red plains of the outback beyond. Filled with striking rock formations and gum-lined creekbeds, this photogenic spot is one of the best free campsites in the Flinders Ranges. If you visit in the early morning or late afternoon, you may even be lucky enough to see yellow-footed rock wallabies hopping between the rocky outcrops.
5. Tackle one of the many Flinders Ranges walks
There are walks and tours to suit even the youngest explorers. (Image: Tourism Australia)
Winding all the way from the Fleurieu Peninsula to Parachilna Gorge, the 1200-kilometre Heysen Trail is one of the longest hiking trails in the world, and the mountainous northern reaches take in some of South Australia’s most spectacular scenery.
But if you don’t want to commit to a multi-day trek, there are plenty of shorter Flinders Ranges walks worth tackling as well. It only takes an hour to reach the vibrant ochre and charcoal paintings at Akurra Adnya (Arkaroo Rock) or the narrow defile between sandstone walls at Alligator Gorge.
Those up for a more challenging option can follow a rocky creekbed to a series of tranquil permanent waterholes filled with shockingly cool water at Blinman Pools, while the strenuous climb up to Rawnsley Bluff rewards hikers with expansive views out over the surrounding ranges.
6. Stargaze at Arkaroola Observatory
Discover the secrets of the cosmos. (Image: Maxime Coquard)
Ever looked up at the night sky and wondered how the great explorers of old used the heavens to navigate? Or how civilisations from the Greeks to the Aztecs turned the stars into a connect-the-dots picture book of larger-than-life heroes? You can ponder these and other, bigger questions while falling asleep under the night sky at campgrounds across the Flinders Ranges. Or you can unlock the secrets of the cosmos at Arkaroola Observatory.
The complete absence of light pollution means that you won’t need any help to see the dark emu hidden in the smear of stars that make up the Milky Way, and specially designed reclining chairs and powerful observatories provide the perfect setting for passionate guides to reveal the mysteries of the star-filled sky.
7. See supersized murals at the Jedd Morgan Gallery
No matter how much time you set aside to take in the sweeping views of this colourful eroded mountain range, it’s never quite enough. But you can make them last a little longer by stopping in at Hawker on the way home and visiting Jeff Morgan Gallery.
Among the supersized murals on display is a breathtaking 360-degree panorama that covers 46 metres of canvas and has its own lookout tower. It’s a chance to enjoy this spectacular landscape without the flies or heat, and Morgan’s brushstrokes help to soften the edges of this sometimes harsh landscape. Even better, the pieces for sale let you enjoy the glorious views from home.
8. Take the 4WD tracks off-road for a different perspective
Drive some of the finest 4WD tracks in Australia, including Bunyeroo Valley. (Image: Emile Ristevski)
Rocky terrain, razor-thin ridges and some seriously steep slopes mean the best 4WD tracks in the Flinders Ranges rank among Australia’s finest. Things go from mild to wild quickly, but novice 4WDers can get their bearings on graded roads through Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorges.
More experienced offroaders can tackle tracks on private properties, including Willow Springs Station, Bendleby Ranges and Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, which let you undertake a real challenge, safe in the knowledge that help is never too far away.
But if you want to visit the most spectacular lookout point in the entire Flinders Ranges, you’ll need to let a guide take the wheel. That allows you to take your eyes off the road and enjoy the scenery as the Arkaroola Ridgetop Tour crawls above sheer drop-offs into terrifyingly deep valleys before emerging at the breathtaking Sillers Lookout, which affords views deep into the ranges and out over the seemingly endless plains beyond.
