Cocos Keeling Islands: The most beautiful place you'll ever go

Halfway between mainland Australia and Sri Lanka, natural wonders abound in the Cocos Keeling Islands where sunshine, beautiful beaches and tropical jungle take centre stage alongside a unique cultural identity.

Tears fill my eyes as the plane descends towards the Cocos Keeling Islands. Never has a destination stirred such a profound reaction in me. From above, the islands seem to float in the water like green jewels, surrounded by an ocean so blue it looks surreal. Even before we land, this small but glorious archipelago has already taken my breath away.

The palm-fringed atolls are mere specks in the middle of the Indian Ocean that, as well as being incredibly far-flung, feel like an untouched paradise. Sitting almost perfectly halfway between mainland Australia and Sri Lanka, and just south of Indonesia, getting here is where the adventure begins.

Reaching the islands, which are an Australian territory, requires a flight from Perth International Airport, stopping en route at Learmonth on the northwest coast of WA before continuing to Cocos and, eventually, Christmas Island. It’s a journey that feels like a pilgrimage to the very edge of the Earth, and I am immersed in the tranquillity of island life the minute I step off the plane.

a house on Home Island, Cocos Keeling Islands — A colourful local home on Home Island. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

The geography of solitude

Cocos is made up of 27 coral islands, with only two – West Island and Home Island – inhabited, forming two distinct atolls. West Island is the administrative and tourist hub, while Home Island is where most of the Cocos Malay community lives. Its remoteness makes it a haven for travellers like me, who are drawn to places where natural beauty thrives and life moves at a slower pace.

white terns resting in palm trees — White terns are resting in palm trees. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

This isolation creates a sense of serenity unlike anywhere else I have ever been. There are no shopping centres, restaurant chains or crowded beaches here, just miles of undisturbed natural beauty, turquoise waters and powdery white sand. It is the kind of place where your mind can wander, your body can relax and time seems to stand still.

the Big Barge Art Centre, Cocos Keeling Islands — The Big Barge Art Centre is a renowned art space on the island. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

You will find Direction Island just north of Home Island. It’s home to a famous rip, where you enter the water at one end and float its entirety while spotting amazing marine life along the way. A public ferry travels to the island on Thursdays and Saturdays. But you need to bring all your food, drinking water and snorkelling equipment with you due to its remoteness.

a remote beach on Cocos Keeling Islands — The islands are uncrowded and wildly beautiful. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Direction Island is also known for its historical significance, as it played a key role in the First World War when the German cruiser Emden was destroyed just off its coast. There is a memorial on the island, which serves as a quiet reminder of the battles that once raged in these peaceful waters.

lush palms on Cocos Keeling Islands — The paradisiacal beaches are all white powdery sand and swaying palm trees. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

I spend some time wandering the island’s trails, which lead me through groves of coconut palms and past the old telegraph station, another nod to its strategic importance in the past.

a coconut tree in the Cocos Keeling Islands — The Cocos Keeling Islands are named after the coconut trees that grow here in abundance. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Remote explorations

Exploring the Cocos Keeling Islands is a journey best experienced on the water, where each tour provides a new perspective of the two atolls’ marine world. After my adventure on Direction Island, I am eager to explore more of the islands, and the motorised canoe tour with Cocosday is the perfect way to dive deeper. The tour leaves from West Island bright and early, with the lagoon as still as glass. The first stop is Pulu Maraya, a small, uninhabited island that looks like it has been plucked from a postcard.

a local guide carrying weaved baskets during the Home Island Cultural Tour, Cocos Keeling Islands — Basket-weaving is part of the Home Island Cultural Tour. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

I slip into the water with my snorkel on and begin to float down the stream, mesmerised by the coral gardens alive with colour and movement. The coral reefs are pristine and largely untouched by mass tourism, making them some of the best-preserved in the world. Our next stop is a tiny island called Pulu Belan Madar, another uninhabited speck in the lagoon.

an aerial view of Pulu Belan Madar, Cocos Keeling Islands — Pulu Belan Madar remains uninhabited. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

This stop is all about relaxation. Lying on the soft sand, I soak in the sun’s warmth. Our guides, Scarlet Walker and Hayden Michie, bring out cold drinks and a picnic of fresh fruit, banana bread and dips. As we sit watching the waves gently lap the shore, it is the perfect moment of calm. On our way back towards West Island, a handsome green turtle pops up, topping off a wonderful day.

an aerial view of the Cocos Keeling Islands — Cocos is made up of 27 coral islands, including Home Island. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Another must-do is the glass-bottom boat tour with Cocos Blue Charters. Peter McCartney, known to us as Captain Pete, is a local legend and tailors his tours to your group’s interests, allowing you to snorkel, fish or simply soak in the views of the underwater world beneath you. He takes us back to Direction Island to conquer the rip again, this time on a non-ferry day, so there isn’t another soul in sight.

a snorkelling tour with Cocos Blue Charters — Snorkelling shipwrecks with Cocos Blue Charters. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

We make a few stops on the way back to swim with manta rays and hopefully dolphins. The manta rays are a graceful success, gliding below us like shadows. Dolphins are next on the list. I am excited, but the thing about dolphins is, they often travel with sharks… So, as I put my fins on at the back of the boat, legs dangling in the water, Pete suddenly says, “Oh, there are sharks there!" to which I reply, “I think they’re dolphins!"

snorkelling and taking photos underwater, Cocos Keeling Islands — Clear water is perfect for underwater photography. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

And as it turns out, we are both right – there are dolphins, but what I had not noticed were the reef sharks lurking just beneath them. Reef sharks are generally harmless, but Pete’s casual warning about how they “sometimes act out" in open water is enough to have me yanking my legs out of the water.

a boat tour on Cocos Keeling — Boat tours explore outer islands and reefs. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

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A complex history

While the Cocos Keeling Islands’ beauty is unparalleled, its cultural and historical significance is equally captivating. The islands were first sighted by British sea captain William Keeling in the early 17th century. But it was not until 1826 that English merchant Alexander Hare arrived.

a close-up shot of a coconut leaves — The islands are covered with lush palms. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Soon after, in 1827, Scottish trader Captain John Clunies-Ross arrived with his family and a group of Malay workers to establish a settlement. Clunies-Ross declared himself the ‘King of the Cocos’ and turned the islands into his own personal fiefdom, establishing a monarchy that would last more than 150 years.

Though the Clunies-Ross family’s reign was often romanticised as a benevolent monarchy, the reality is more complex. The Cocos Malay people lived in a paternalistic system where they were paid in company currency, only useable in Clunies-Ross stores, and were bound by strict social rules imposed by the family. This created a highly stratified society, with the Clunies-Ross family enjoying European comforts and luxury while the Malay community worked long hours in the coconut plantations.

coconut husks on the Cocos Keeling — Coconuts grow abundantly on the island. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

The winds of change began to blow in the mid-20th century, when the Cocos Malay people started to challenge their status and sought recognition and rights. The Australian government at the time began to take notice, particularly as global views on colonialism and feudal systems shifted after the Second World War.

coconut palms on Cocos Keeling Islands — Walk past groves of coconut palms. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

In 1955, the islands were officially transferred to Australian control, but the Clunies-Ross family was allowed to continue their reign until 1978 when the Australian government purchased the islands from them. The final chapter of the Clunies-Ross dynasty came when the last ‘king’, John Cecil Clunies-Ross, was forced to sell his home, Oceania House, and relinquish the last vestiges of his family’s control over the islands.

Meet local coconut farmer, Tony Lacy. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Life on the Cocos Keeling Islands today

Walking through the islands now, it is hard to imagine it was once a kingdom ruled by a single family. But visiting Home Island is a fascinating insight into the Cocos Malay way of life. Traditional Cocos Malay culture is alive and well here, with Islamic influences seen in the architecture, clothing and religious practices. The locals are incredibly welcoming, and I feel like I have been invited into a close-knit community that is both proud and protective of its heritage.

basket weaving in Cocos Keeling Islands — Basket weaving with palms. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

One of the highlights of my visit is joining a cultural tour with Osman ‘Ossie’ Macrae, a local guide whose storytelling brings the islands’ history to life while we feast on a traditional Cocos Malay lunch. Ossie’s deep knowledge and passion for Cocos Malay culture make the past feel palpable.

a close-up shot of a woven basket — The Cocos Malay people engage in traditional basket weaving. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Life on the Cocos Keeling Islands is refreshingly simple. There is a distinct lack of commercialisation, and I quickly adapt to the slower pace. On West Island, the rhythm of daily life is dictated by the tides.

island life on Cocos Keeling — Island life is refreshingly simple. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Dining options are limited but delightful. The few restaurants and cafes on West Island rotate their opening hours, and it is not uncommon for staff to close shop unexpectedly if the surf or fishing conditions are particularly good. A highlight of dining here is the abundance of fresh, locally caught seafood, all prepared with an island twist.

peeling a coconut at Wild Coconut Discovery Centre — Visitors can tour the Wild Coconut Discovery Centre. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

As my time on the Cocos Keeling Islands comes to an end, I cannot help but reflect on how this place has touched me, just as it did when I first laid eyes on it from the plane. From the quiet beauty of its beaches to the fascinating layers of its history, the islands leave an imprint. There is a stillness here that you cannot find in many places; a sense of peace that comes from being far away from the noise of the world.

Sitting in the middle of the Indian Ocean, Cocos holds its history close while offering its beauty to those who visit. I leave feeling something I rarely experience when I travel – like a part of me has stayed behind.

a swing on Cocos Keeling Islands — Swing into island time. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

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A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Virgin Australia flies to the Cocos Keeling Islands from Perth/Boorloo’s International Airport on Tuesdays and Fridays. The flight time is about six hours and includes a stop at Learmonth, near the town of Exmouth, and continues to Christmas Island afterwards. The flight leaves from the international airport, so make sure you allow extra time to get through customs and check-in.

Staying there

Stay in an air-conditioned bungalow at The Breakers in the heart of West Island. Rooms are $310 per night for a minimum of three.

one of the rooms at The Breakers, Cocos Keeling — A cosy room at The Breakers. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Playing there

Cocosday runs a four-hour motorised canoe tour of the southern atoll lagoon and islands for $170 per person. If there is only one tour you book while on the Cocos Keeling Islands, make sure it is this.

a motorised canoe tour, Cocos Keeling — Book a motorised canoe tour to witness pristine coral reefs. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Cocos Blue Charters operates a half-day glass-bottom boat tour for $200 per person. The boat fits four guests and offers shade. When visiting Home Island, book Ossie’s Cultural Tours for $85 per person to learn about the culture and history of the islands over a homemade Cocos Malay lunch.

Join a cultural tour with Cocos Malay local Ossie. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Eating there

The locally run restaurants on West Island often alternate their opening hours, so you should be able to find at least one venue open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Check the visitor centre for updated information. Add your name to blackboards out the front of each restaurant to make a tentative reservation.

the Sula Sula Servery, Cocos Keeling Islands — Enjoy homemade sweet treats at Sula Sula Servery. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

From cabins to canvas, craft distillers to destination dining, Heathcote locals reveal their eco-savvy passions in ways that resonate with those seeking to travel lightly.

Heathcote , on traditional Taungurung Country in Central Victoria, is synonymous with its garnet-hued shiraz, but wine isn’t the only string to its bow. The town itself is sprinkled with heritage buildings from the gold rush era, and beyond that a growing collection of sustainable gastronomy and eco-friendly escapes. Nearby Bendigo, one of only 65 cities in the world recognised as a UNESCO Creative City and Region of Gastronomy, plates up an astonishing calibre of produce, wine and food for its size. Increasingly the entire region is taking up the challenge, though Heathcote in particular shines with its focus on sustainability.

Pink Cliffs GeologicalReserve — The dramatic landscape of Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Goodfrey)

The eco-stays bringing sustainability to Heathcote

Yellow BoxWood’s safari-style tents — Yellow Box Wood’s safari-style tents are nestled on 40 hectares of bushland. (Image: Emily Goodfrey)

Andee and Lisa Davidson spent years working in southern Africa before settling in Heathcote. “We had a vision of how this could be,” explains Andee. “We wanted a retreat, but one that was off-grid and environmentally sustainable.” Now, at Yellow Box Wood , two luxury safari-style tents are at the heart of 40 hectares of rolling hills and native bush, with kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, goanna and birdlife aplenty. It’s all solar-powered, wood for the fire is mainly fallen timber, and water is collected on the carport roof. No lack of creature comforts though – en suite with rain shower, espresso coffee maker, comfy seating, wood-burning fire all set to go. There’s also a solar-heated, mineral salt pool in a bush setting, walking tracks, and even a mini bush golf course. On my visit, I put the vision to the test. Cocooned in the plush four-poster bed I can glimpse the stars, while the heater casts a golden glow on the canvas. In the morning, I wake to a blush-pink sunrise, kangaroos feeding and a soundtrack of magpies.

If a tent is not your style, Stephen and Cally Trompp’s carbon-neutral Mt Ida Eco Cabin might entice with its generous deck and farmland views. Inside the cabin, corrugated iron walls as rusty as a shearing shed, gleaming (recycled) floorboards, timber truss ceiling (crafted by Stephen), wood-fired heater and an old-school turntable with a pile of vinyls to spin. It’s fun, and a little boho. “Everything is recycled. The cabin takes maximum advantage of the sun in winter. It’s all solar-powered. Don’t panic, though,” says Stephen, “you can still charge your phone and get 4G reception!” Settle into an Adirondack chair on the deck or pedal off on a mountain bike to suss out the wineries.

A taste of Spain in Central Victoria

Another person with a vision is Evan Pritchard at his Three Dams Estate where the wines reflect his deep love of Spain and of Spanish-style grapes, such as tempranillo. Afternoons in the ‘wine shed’ or cantina are matched with music (flamenco is a favourite), Spanish bites from tapas to paella (with Evan on the pans!) and views to Mount Alexander. Sustainability is also a passion. “You don’t need to buy anything. We decided to be off-grid from the start, but it is a lifestyle change,” he says. “You need to think about it and be careful.” Everything here is recycled, reassembled, refurbished. Evan has an electric car (with solar-powered charger), solar-power for the winery, and even a jaunty little electric tractor/forklift. “I love the idea of all the things you can do using the sun.” Sipping a crisp rosado (a Spanish rosé) with Evan in the sunshine, I couldn’t agree more.

The vineyard redefining sustainable winemaking

Silver Spoon winery — The Silverspoon Estate winery is completely off-grid. (Image: Graham Hosking)

On the other side of Heathcote, Silver Spoon Estate demonstrates sustainability on a more extensive scale. Tracie and Peter Young’s winery, cellar door, award-winning restaurant and their own house are all solar-powered and off the grid. Sustainability is intrinsic to everything they do. The property sprawls across 100 hectares, with 20 hectares under vine – shiraz, viognier, grenache, tempranillo. As the climate has changed, so too has the approach. These are dry-grown vineyards. “We prune for drought. That means lower yields but more intense flavours,” says Peter. The fine-dining restaurant offers sweeping views, a wood-burning fire and a deck for languid lunches. Head chef Ben Hong sources regional, sustainable ingredients and weaves estate wines into the menu – think crispy wild mushroom arancini, viognier-infused chicken breast.

Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant.

Heathcote’s other hidden gems

Not all local wineries have a cellar door, but I find local treasures at the Heathcote Wine Hub , a petite 1855 timber church in the main street, lovingly returned to life by Karen Robertson and Carey Moncrieff. “Carey is a scrounger,” says Karen. “He doesn’t throw a single thing away.” He does, however, craft things into something quite special. Heritage floors, light-filtering lancet windows and shelves of regional wines create the perfect ambience for wine tasting. Or order a glass and linger over a cheese platter.

Heathcote is not all wine, of course. Nathan Wheat and partner Vanessa Curtis run Envy Distilling with a committed sustainable ethic – and a serious love of gin. Their small-batch distillery produces grape-based gin, and soon brandy. Distilled water is reused in an ingenious cooling system. All waste is treated on site. They buy excess wine from winemakers to distil and buy recycled barrels. “Distilling with the sun,” as Nathan says. Each Envy gin has its own story. Spicy, award-winning The Dry, is designed to capture the region’s dry, rugged nature. Pull up a stool at the bar (reclaimed timbers and tiles, of course), order a Gin Flight, or kick back with a cocktail and let Nathan share his eco journey.

Envy gins — Sample gins at small-batch distillery Envy.