Hotel Review: The Provincial, Ballarat

Imogen Eveson Imogen Eveson
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Does Ballarat’s newest boutique hotel measure up to the city’s buzzing arts and dining scene? We check in to find out.

“Have you stayed here before?" The receptionist asks sweetly when my partner and I check in. We tell her no, and she tells us we’re in for a treat.

Details

The Provincial Hotel
121 Lydiard Street North, Ballarat, Vic

First Impressions

The Provincial Hotel has only been open for three months or so when we rock up on an autumn evening, and there’s a buzz in the air that reflects the buzz on the street in Ballarat right now; this new boutique accommodation feels like the perfect complement to the recent crop of culinary and arts offerings that is securing the old gold town’s reputation as the perfect spot for a weekend away.

 

It’s centrally located on Lydiard Street and opposite the railway station – the height of convenience should you be rolling in from Melbourne by train.

 

I’m a sucker for a heritage building and this one, built in 1909 and listed by the National Trust for its expressive Art Nouveau facade, had me at its domed turrets. But a new story has been written inside by owners Simon and Gorgi Coghlan and business partner Drew Harry. They’ve created a stylish and serene space that, in true Ballarat style, takes design cues from contemporary trends while staying sympathetic to the building’s old bones.

The Provincial Ballarat
Blue and ivory interiors are seen throughout

The lobby

A blue-and-ivory colour palette is employed throughout its common spaces and most guest rooms, built up in layers of subtly contrasting patterns; each area we move through presents its own lovely vignette.

 

Reaching the first floor landing en route to our suite (one of 23 across the boutique hotel and its corporate wing), for example, I take in the colourful and geometric art of Buninyong artist Robyn Batrouney. It plays off against the illustrative Brunschwig & Fils wallpaper it’s mounted on and the sinuous stained-glass window in the stairwell opposite. Our Lola Deluxe is, pleasingly, more of the same: a riff on texture and colour.

The Provincial Ballarat
A pallette of blue and ivory runs throughout the hotel

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The room

The styling throughout the bedroom and separate living area echoes Cabarita Beach’s Halcyon House and London and New York’s Firmdale Hotels: a big, bold bedhead is plumped up with plush cushions; antique furniture is met with modern upholstery; vintage and modern prints in mismatched frames are juxtaposed against each other. And there’s Aesop in the bathroom, which is always a good sign.

 

We’re greeted with a welcome note and a bottle of local wine and even though I was anticipating this – part of the deal when you book directly through the website – it still feels like a nice surprise. A ‘Provincial Hotel Passport’ offers further welcome and a list of recommendations on where to eat, drink and play nearby as well as further afield.

The Provincial Ballarat
Expect a big, bold bed head
The Provincial Ballarat
Light-filled bedrooms are a delight to see

The food

After a long drive from Sydney we opt for a low-key pub meal down the road rather than dining at elegant in-house restaurant Lola (named after the exotic dancer and actress Lola Montez, who caused a sensation when she visited the Goldfields in the 1850s), but make a beeline for breakfast there in the morning.

 

Head chef Shaun Thomson has worked alongside the likes of Peter Gilmore, Neil Perry and Peter Kuruvita, and his menu celebrates Ballarat-region produce at any time of day.

 

We settle into a navy-leather banquette in the bright, sunny dining room, where the colour palette and style notes carry through. My Aussie classic of poached eggs and avo on toast with local Meredith feta is done just right; as is my St Ali coffee. Our stay here at the Provincial has indeed been a treat – as promised.

Provincial Ballarat
A dish of wild rabbit raviolo at Lola

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The AT verdict

It’s no surprise The Provincial Hotel recently won Best Boutique Style Accommodation at the Tourism Accommodation Australia (Victoria) awards: this is the ideal crash pad for a cultural weekender in Ballarat.

Score

4/5

We rated

The attention to detail: from the passionate staff to the thoughtful notes and beautifully executed styling throughout. Seemingly five minutes from everything, its location too is ideal for exploring this very walkable city by foot.

We’d change

We watched a film on the room’s Apple TV (another nice touch) but couldn’t quite get comfy on the couch!

 

All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way – so we experience exactly what you would.

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Imogen Eveson
Imogen Eveson is Australian Traveller’s Print Editor. She was named Editor of the Year at the 2024 Mumbrella Publish Awards and in 2023, was awarded the Cruise Line Industry Association (CLIA) Australia’s Media Award. Before joining Australian Traveller Media as sub-editor in 2017, Imogen wrote for publications including Broadsheet, Russh and SilverKris. She launched her career in London, where she graduated with a BA Hons degree in fashion communication from world-renowned arts and design college Central Saint Martins. She is the author/designer of The Wapping Project on Paper, published by Black Dog Publishing in 2014. Growing up in Glastonbury, home to the largest music and performing arts festival in the world, instilled in Imogen a passion for cultural cross-pollination that finds perfect expression today in shaping Australia’s leading travel titles. Imogen regularly appears as a guest on radio travel segments, including ABC National Nightlife, and is invited to attend global travel expos such as IMM, ILTM, Further East and We Are Africa.
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6 nature-based experiences to prove the Bendigo region comes alive in autumn

    Dilvin Yasa Dilvin Yasa
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    A change is as good as a holiday, but never more so than in the Bendigo region when it’s the seasons putting in the transformative work.

    With its gold rush history, opulent architecture and booming food and wine industry, there’s no denying that the Bendigo region is beautiful to visit at any time of year. Visit between March and May, however, and you’ll find the Bendigo in autumn really comes alive. Foliage erupts in a canvas of golden colours and the cooling air makes immersing yourself in nature all the more enticing.

    Need a few ideas to get you started? We’re so glad you asked.

    1. Tackle the bike trails

    Pink Cliffs Reserve
    Pink Cliffs Reserve in Heathcote can be seen on the O’Keefe Rail Trail. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Welcome to a region that punches well above its weight when it comes to cycling. This is where hammies are tested on multi-day rides, and first-timers fall in love with the sport on short (and ridiculously pretty) trails.

    The 49-kilometre O’Keefe Rail Trail is the headline act, following the old railway line between Bendigo and Heathcote. Cross the Campaspe River at Axedale Recreation Reserve and pause at the Platypus Compass Sculpture and the First Nations mural marking the connection between Djaara and Taungurung Country, with Axedale acting as the perfect halfway stop to refuel at a pub or cafe.

    Pedal a little further Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve to be rewarded with views of sculpted pink clay cliffs and narrow gorges that are perfect for a photo stop. Searching for a different type of reward? The Heatchote Wine Region is full of inviting cellar doors.

    There are plenty of other options in the Bendigo region, from the 210-kilometre Goldfields Track, to the Bendigo Creek Trail and Back Creek Trail – both ideal for riders of all abilities. The 3.7 kilometre Little Lake Boort loop is a great family-friendly option.

    Prefer something more adventurous? Spring Gully Mountain Bike Park has been keeping BMX Bandits’ dreams alive for years.

    2. Enjoy the crunch of autumn leaves

    two people having a picnic at Valley of Liquidambers heathcote
    Pack a picnic and head to the Valley of Liquidambers.

    Blinding clusters of crimson, burnt orange and brilliant yellow; here, autumn leaves are crisp confetti of fire and gold. See the magic up close with a slew of parks seemingly dedicated to showcasing Mother Nature’s colour wheel, especially from mid April to early June.

    Pack a picnic for an afternoon at Valley of Liquidambers in Heathcote, where Liquidamber trees transform into a wonderworld of magical foliage. Don’t miss taking a leisurely stroll across the swinging bridge back towards the main street.

    Rosalind Park might be celebrated for its annual tulip display come springtime, but it’s hard to compete with the theatre of autumn. Here, many trees date back to the 1800s, and there’s no better place for a romantic stroll than along the elms, oak and Queensland Kauri that dominate this park.

    Head straight to Lake Weeroona, where an ornamental lake begs for a leisurely lap around its edges, either on foot, or with pedal power.

    3. Immerse yourself in First Nations culture

    woman exploring Kooyoora State Park with guides
    Explore Kooyoora State Park on a cultural tour.

    Its ‘Mountain of Light’ (Guyura in the Dja Dja Wurrung language) title is impressive, but so too is Kooyoora State Park’s rugged landscape of granite outcrops, rocky ridgelines and wide-open skies.

    While there’s nothing to suggest you couldn’t explore Kooyoora’s walking tracks on your own, the best way to understand the 40,000 years of history behind its natural wonders is to book a 2.5-hour Kooyoora Cultural Tour with Dumawul Tours.

    Led by Djaara cultural guides, expect a traditional Welcome to Country smoking ceremony, before engaging storytelling rewinds the clock to reveal the deep cultural significance of the land, its flora, fauna and its continuing connection to Country.

    Keen to stay a little longer? Consider staying overnight at the campground and committing to the park’s wealth of walking trails, such as the 5.3-kilometre hike from the camping ground to the lookout on the Long Rock Walking Track.

    4. Splash in the region’s waterways

    Serpentine Creek Canoe Trail
    Paddle through Serpentine Creek Canoe Trail. (Image: Visit Vic)

    Water babies rejoice: the Bendigo region offers a wealth of waterways to explore.

    Flowing 392-kilometres from the Great Dividing Range to the Murray River, the best way to enjoy Loddon River is with a stop at Bridgewater. Here you can swim in the natural infinity pool or tackle the all-abilities, five-kilometre Serpentine Creek Canoe Trail before browsing the cute stores in town. Hungry? Grab a bite at Bridgewater Hotel.

    Lake Eppalock is popular for water activities, but don’t miss a visit to Little Lake Boort and Big Lake Boort. Birders, in particular, will love the former, thanks to the large variety of bird species that nest in the boardwalk area surrounding the lake.

    Meanwhile, Big Lake Boort is celebrated for its significant Indigenous history and over 400 scarred trees, and offers an opportunity to spot birds and go canoing.

    Meanwhile, watersports and recreational activities at Crusoe Reservoir, located on the outskirts of Bendigo, are the order of the day. Take a walk to the picnic spots of No. 7 Park nearby, and maybe even camp there for the night.

    5. View epic lookouts

    customers at Peregrine Ridge
    Spend time at Peregrine Ridge.

    Sometimes a holiday requires a phenomenal spot on which to perch as you survey your temporary kingdom below. The Bendigo region, happily, doesn’t do anything by halves.

    Located in Heathcote-Graytown National Park, Viewing Rock Lookout – a rocky outcrop offering spectacular views over Heathcote and surrounds – remains a popular choice. Take the hour-long Viewing Rock Circuit Walk and try your hand at gold prospecting nearby.

    Prefer the romance of sunrise or sunset? Pyramid Hill, a stunning granite hill rising 187-metres above sea level, is the place to be (preferably with a coffee and a bagel)

    Over in Terrick Terrick National Park, a walk to the summit delivers a full 360-degree panorama of woodlands, farms and open-sky plains. Pack lunch – and perhaps a tent – as picnic tables and camping are available.

    Carve out time for Peregrine Ridge, a vineyard situated at the eastern side of Mt Camel Range with an elevation ranging from 250-290 metres. Be rewarded with delicious wine and a cellar door which offers floor-to-ceiling views.

    6. Enjoy the Bendigo region’s parks and gardens

    Rosalind Park in bendigo
    Stroll through Bendigo’s best gardens. (Image: Visit Vic)

    Rosalind Park, located right in the centre of town, is considered Bendigo’s backyard and rightly so. Home to the Bendigo Easter Festival, it’s just as popular year-round for its sixty acres of rolling lawns, towering elms, fernery and winding paths – not to mention the playground which has plenty of little fans of its own. A short drive away, Bendigo Botanic Gardens – established in 1857 – offers a more tranquil space for deep-level nature immersion.

    Those who favour something a little more formal, cottage-style Canterbury Park Gardens – famous for its dahlias in autumn – delivers.  Stroll through its meticulously maintained ornamental gardens before checking out Lake Tom Thumb and Lake Neangar nearby.

    Time to start planning your adventure to the Bendigo Region, visit bendigoregion.com.au.