Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns.

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet

The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.

Split point lookout — The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities.

Lorne to Birregurra

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.

Brae restaurant — Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.

The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.

Port Campbell to Timboon

Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.

Warrnambool to Port Fairy

Warrnambool building — A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit.

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip.

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.

A world away from the hustle, bustle and chaos of the big smoke – yet with a distinct sense of familiarity – Victoria’s Wimmera Mallee region is an incomparable place.

Victoria’s Grampians are a visual feast, a seemingly endless vista of craggy cliffs, rolling valleys and untamed bushland. But they’re also much more than a scenic mountain landscape. Diverse and storied, each region within the range has its own rhythm. The Wimmera Mallee – a pocket in the state’s north-west, stretching from Horsham to near Mildura – is one of the most captivating.

Once known as Victoria’s agricultural heartland, the Wimmera Mallee has evolved in recent years into a dynamic, slightly offbeat hub. It buzzes with a creative hum and welcoming energy, and harbours an eclectic mix of long-time locals and tree-changers. Once you encounter its unmistakable charm, feel its warm country hospitality and taste its nationally celebrated vanilla slice, you may find yourself lingering longer than planned.

Eager to explore? These must-visit spots let you experience the inimitable spirit of this special part of the world.

Wimmera Mallee’s quirky attractions

The Dimboola Imaginarium, Wimmera Mallee victoria — Step into the whacky Dimboola Imaginarium. (Image: Denis Bin)

If you’re after something a little more unconventional, the Wimmera Mallee delivers in droves.

The Dimboola Imaginarium – located in a historic bank building in its namesake town – is a gift shop and boutique accommodation in one. Shop for unique and whimsical keepsakes, stay overnight in an elegant themed room, and lose yourself in one of the Imaginarium’s interactive experiences.

Also in Dimboola, just a short drive from the Imaginarium, is a menagerie of utter delight. Tiny Goats and Co. is home to a herd of miniature goats, with the farm offering group visits and special events like goat yoga and cuddle sessions.

Arcade aficionados should visit the Australian Pinball Museum in nearby Nhill. Here, you’ll find the biggest selection of playable pinball machines in the country, featuring modern models and classics dating all the way back to 1931.

Arts and culture in Wimmera Mallee

Step into the Wimmera Mallee’s storied history at the Stick Shed — Step into history at the Stick Shed. (Image: Visit Vic)

As a thoroughly creative community, it’s no wonder the Wimmera Mallee has a host of venues focused on its rich arts and culture scene.

Wander Trickbots Metal Art & Sculpture Garden in Nullawil, a winding trail filled with unique and quirky creations fashioned from metal odds, ends and scrap. A walk through the garden is inspiring enough, but consider buying a piece to take home and treasure.

The town of Nhill also has a significant Karen-Burmese refugee community, who make up 10 per cent of the local population. Discover the artistry of this vibrant culture at Paw Po , where you can purchase traditional hand-woven and textile products. Choose from a selection of beautifully crafted homewares, fashion and dolls.

Step into the Wimmera Mallee’s storied history at the Stick Shed , the only WWII emergency grain store still standing today. This National Heritage-listed structure takes you on a journey through the region’s agricultural past and is a dramatic sight with its towering and eerily striking timber poles.

Nature escapes around Wimmera Mallee

pink Lake Tyrrel, Wimmera Mallee, Victoria Australia — Take in the pink hues of Lake Tyrrell. (Image: Visit Vic)

Much like the majestic beauty of the wider Grampians, the Wimmera Mallee is a mélange of serene and spellbinding nature escapes.

Victoria’s pink lakes are famed nationwide, and two of them are found right here. See the flamingo-pink hues of Loch Iel, particularly vivid after a heavy downpour, or the vast and ancient Lake Tyrrell , which turns pink during wet and warm conditions.

The Snowdrift dunes in Wyperfeld National Park are ideal for adventurers. Set amid the area’s semi-arid landscape, the dunes are expansive mounds of sand deposited around 40,000 years ago. Hike or sandboard them and make sure to visit at sunset, when the sand glows golden.

And while some travellers chase the highest peaks, you can see the most modest in the Wimmera Mallee. Standing a mere 43 metres above the surrounding terrain, Mount Wycheproof is considered the smallest registered mountain in the world. Courtesy of its relatively gentle inclines, it’s a lovely spot for a walk and a picnic.

Culinary adventures in Wimmera Mallee

border inn in the Wimmera Mallee — Meet the locals at Border Inn.

As a region rich in agricultural bounty, it’s little surprise the Wimmera Mallee has such a robust and vibrant food scene. The community is fiercely proud of its local produce, showcasing the flavours and heritage of the area.

The Border Inn in the village of Apsley is a quaint country pub and meeting spot for the local community, featuring a classic country menu and warm hospitality.

The Horsham Golf Club is a popular spot for golf buffs with an adjoining bistro and bar. Try a modern twist on hearty favourites while taking in views of the green. For a taste of the area’s vintages, head to Norton Estate Wines – a boutique wine producer and cellar door open weekends.

A Wimmera Mallee jaunt wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the famed Sharp’s Bakery in Birchip. Here, you’ll find a velvety vanilla slice that’s been crowned as Australia’s best seven times.

Wimmera Mallee accommodation

Fulham Homestead in wimmera mallee — Escape to Fulham Homestead.

If you’re enjoying an extended trip, you’ll need somewhere to rest. After a day tackling Wyperfeld’s epic dunes, visit Pine Plains Lodge , also in the national park. Built from reclaimed timber planks and logs, and anchored by rugged stone fireplaces, the lodge is a rustic and cosy hideaway.

For a refined yet relaxing escape, head to Fulham Homestead – a gorgeously restored guesthouse on an idyllic working farm, complete with farm animals and scenic vistas. Built in the 1840s, it has all the elegance and charm of its heritage, plus contemporary comforts like a modern kitchen, wi-fi and air-conditioning.

The Hermitage Hotel is Victoria’s oldest inland pub and an equally delightful blend of old and new. The restored rooms are perfectly appointed and adorned with period furnishings and high-quality linens. The pub itself is a favoured food and wine spot among locals and travellers alike.

If camping is more your style, the Lake Lascelles Cabins and Camping (formerly Mallee Bush Retreat) is a sprawling oasis with powered and unpowered sites and snug cabins. The setting is stunning too, the pristine Lake Lascelles sitting right in its centre.

Annual events

Wimmera Mallee Nhill Aviation Museum — Time your visit to Nhill Aviation Museum for the annual air show.

You may not need an excuse to revisit the Wimmera Mallee, but these annual and bi-annual events will almost certainly have you returning again and again.

Each year, the Lake Chalegrark Country Music Marathon takes over the town for a spectacular line-up of musicians from around Australia. The event is easygoing, family-friendly, and set in scenic surrounds on the shores of Lake Charlegrark.

Every two years, the region holds colourful events like the Wimmera Steampunk Festival , a raucous celebration of 19th-century steampunk culture with a different theme each time; the Nhill Air Show , which features jaw-dropping aerial stunts, aircraft displays, music, activities and more; and the Nati Frinj , a festival of art, culture and performance showcasing the many talents of the Natimuk community.

From the quirky to the tasty, start planning at visitwimmeramallee.com.au