Maritime history meets coastal cool at the old sealing and whaling village of Port Fairy, writes Jo Stewart. Discover why Port Fairy landed at no.6 on your list of Top 50 Aussie Towns list.
Just beyond the end of the Great Ocean Road, historic Port Fairy could be the perfect set location for a British detective series. The spirits of whalers, sealers and fishermen may live on its 60-plus National Trust-classified buildings, but the town once known as Belfast isn’t stuck in the past. Behind its timeworn exterior, you’ll find a creative community with an eye on the future.
Eating there
For your morning caffeine hit, head to Port Fairy Coffee Roasters where you can also buy beans to take home (dark roast fans will love the Dead Man’s Blend). Bank St + Co is another go-to coffee and brunch spot.
Coffin Sally has set up shop in an old undertaker’s building, but there’s nothing dead about this jumping pizza joint. If you like carbs, booze and good times, don’t sleep on this place.
Perhaps a four-course tasting menu is more your style? Head to Conlan’s Wine Store to wine and dine in what was once a solicitor’s office.
Staying there
As Victoria’s oldest inn, the Merrijig Inn scores full marks for cosiness. Taste the handiwork of chef Tanya Connellan in the dining room, share a few yarns in the tiny front bar or retreat to the garden with a spritz in hand. Pro tip: if you’re more than six feet tall, give the dollhouse-style attic rooms a miss and book a suite instead.
Pamper yourself with a luxury stay at the Oak & Anchor.
Behind the Oak & Anchor hotel’s renovated heritage facade you’ll find seven dreamy, boutique suites furnished with freestanding bathtubs and Euro-style walk-in showers.
Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.
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Playing there
An inclusive space for book lovers, Blarney Books and Art is a much-loved local institution. Drop by to pick up a paperback – if you time your visit right, you could catch a book launch or author talk.
Browse the stylish boutiques and shops in Port Fairy.
During summer, wading in the (surprisingly) crystalline shallows of Pea Soup Beach is a must, especially at sunset when a golden glow warms the shoreline. Port Fairy is made for meandering, so head out on foot without a plan and see where life takes you.
Golden hour at the Port Fairy Lighthouse.
Stroll to the Griffiths Island Lighthouse and admire the classic, wooden boats moored along Moyne River. Bank and Sackville streets are where you’ll find most of the town’s bluestone pubs, cute cottages and historic shopfronts – close your eyes and you can almost hear the ghosts of salty sea-dogs with weathered faces and crude tattoos trading tall stories of the one that got away.
Jo Stewart is a freelance features writer who pens stories about nature, pop culture, music, art, design and more from her home in the Macedon Ranges of Victoria. When not writing, you can find her trawling through vinyl records and vintage fashion at op shops, antique stores and garage sales.
Rest and recuperate in the East Gippsland region, a haven of natural hot springs, seasonal festivals and really tasty things to eat.
It’s about this time of year that the buzz of the summer holidays is well and truly behind us, and the pressures of the day-to-day are starting to pile up. The solution? A proper weekend escape, ideally one with a focus on rest, relaxation and total reset.
East Gippsland delivers all three in spades. Here, you’ll find charming towns, natural scenery alive with wildlife and easygoing experiences – think steamy hot springs and idyllic lakefront stays that practically force you to unwind.
The Gippsland Lakes are one of the region’s highlights, a sprawling network of glassy waterways with a seriously calming atmosphere. Spend a few days here, and you’ll be well and truly recharged.
Here’s where to eat, stay, explore and unwind for a wellness-focused weekend in this gorgeous region.
Getting there
Visit lakeside villages like Lakes Entrance.
East Gippsland is a patchwork of towns, each with its own personality: coastal gems like Marlo and Mallacoota, lakeside villages including Metung, Paynesville and Lakes Entrance and a smattering of inland communities.
From Melbourne, getting to each is easy. The region can be reached by car in around four hours, just a smooth drive along the Princes Highway.
If you’re driving to or from Sydney, many of the towns sit along the legendary Sydney to Melbourne coastal drive, which winds its way through Lakes Entrance, Orbost, Marlo and Mallacoota.
Having a car makes exploring the region a breeze, as you can pull over at farm gates, take scenic detours and go at your own relaxing pace.
Winter delights
Experience that East Gippsland Winter Festival. (Credit: Naomi Rahim)
Winter is a particularly good time to visit. The East Gippsland Winter Festival is a raucous celebration of wintery food, drink, music and experiences, taking place over an entire month and in different towns.
Expect re-enactments, games, roving performances and fiery displays at the Bruthen Medieval event. Feast your way through regional bites and watch live wood carving and a hotly contested dumpling-eating competition in the waterside town of Metung. Head to Lakes Entrance for one of the festival’s signature events, Lakes Lights: Gardens of the Galaxy – a slightly cosmic and totally mesmerising display of lights. Or book a seat at the Nicholson River Trestle Bridge Long Lunch. This long-table feast stretches across the entire bridge, with sweeping river views and top-tier local produce.
Where to stay
Rejuvinate at Metung Hot Springs.
Metung is also a much-loved destination for natural hot springs – warm mineral pools believed to restore and detoxify the system. Here, you’ll find a network of tranquil springs fed with water sourced 500m below the surface, all at varying temperatures but with a healthy mix of soothing minerals and trace elements. Each looks over the stunning surrounding lakes, only adding to the sense of serenity.
Extend the relaxation by booking into Metung Hot Springs. The property is home to a collection of glamping tents – either perched on the hillside or overlooking the lagoon – that deliver after-hours access to the springs. These are no ordinary tents; expect plush linens, beautifully curated furnishings, warm service and a complimentary gourmet breakfast delivered daily.
Alternatively, book a night or two at Idle Lake House – a gorgeously appointed hideaway in Lakes Entrance. The aesthetic is moody, modern and very cool, and the property is situated right on the water’s edge with floor-to-ceiling windows that immerse you in the surroundings.
Where to eat
Sit down at the floating restaurant, Sodafish. (Credit: We Are Explorers)
Given its wealth of fresh seafood and exceptional produce, East Gippsland is home to a vast selection of eateries, with options to suit all tastes and budgets.
For something a little bit fancy, Sardine Dining in Paynesville is a must-visit. The hatted restaurant serves a seasonal seafood-focused menu made with premium local ingredients, while the adjoining wine bar is a top spot for a regional drop and a light snack.
If you’re after a relaxed bite, Sodafish in Lakes Entrance is your best bet. This floating restaurant sits right atop the water, with a vibrant and fresh menu centred on locally caught seafood. Anything off the menu is delicious, but the whole roasted snapper and locally sourced fish and chips are standouts.
Or luxuriate with a long afternoon at the nearby Slipway. This waterfront dining precinct hosts a mix of vendors serving casual food, craft drinks and regionally made goods.
Exploring the great outdoors and local culture
Keep an eye out for the locals. (Credit: Tyson Mayr)
No wellness weekend would be complete without immersing yourself in the beauty and tranquillity of East Gippsland’s outdoors.
Head to Raymond Island – a small island just off Paynesville – to spot local koalas along the Koala Trail. This two-kilometre stretch is one of the few places where you can see koalas doing their thing in their natural habitat, with more than 200 living on the island. Leave the car in Paynesville; the trail can only be accessed on foot.
Next, explore the Gippsland Lakes Discovery Trail, which starts in Colquhoun and ends in Lakes Entrance. Across 23 kilometres, you’ll spot native flora and fauna (including lace goannas) and pass by remnants of the tramway that once serviced timber workers in the area.
Finish up your East Gippsland jaunt with a visit to Gunaikurnai Cultural Hub. The centre houses an Aboriginal Art Gallery displaying contemporary works by Aboriginal artists, and a Bush Cafe serving breakfast and lunch classics and excellent cakes. Pick up a slice and a coffee for your trip back to the city.
