With a sophisticated air, eclectic inner-city neighbourhoods and some of the best restaurants in the country, Victoria has good reason to be proud of its culture hub capital.

The rivalry between the Victorian capital of Melbourne and Sydney to its north has always been heated, but pitting these two cities against each other is selling both of them short.

The fact is that Melbourne, with its buzzing restaurant scene, cosmopolitan cafe culture, genteel architecture, headlining sports events, powerhouse arts sector, and compelling inner-city laneways, is a world-class city with a unique appeal all its own. Feel like a local with this comprehensive Melbourne itinerary.

Day One

MORNING

Any exploration of the city should start at its heart, walking the maze of street art-lined laneways that contribute so much colour and life to Victoria’s capital. A big chunk of the city’s heavy hitters fork off from Flinders Lane (AC/DC, Degraves, Centre Place, Hosier), itself lined with destination diners and cool bars that pulse with action late into the night. Book into a street art tour with Melbourne Street Tours, which is run by street artists, or unleash your creativity at one of its Freehand Spraypainting Workshops.

But first, coffee. Dukes at Ross House is the flagship – and only – store of this specialty coffee roaster, and a longstanding cult classic venue.

Once you’ve had your fill of murals, head to the ‘Paris end’ of Collins Street, which is recognised by the National Trust for its historic architecture, to browse through the grand Block Arcade, or do a spot of luxury shopping at the likes of Dior, Hermès and Tiffany & Co.

MIDDAY

Make your way through the throng of locals in Centre Place to shop at family-run Melbourne label Kinki Gerlinki. Or if you’re in the market for gifts, pop into Clementine’s: every last item in this shop was produced or crafted by a Victorian artist or business. Wait for a table at ShanDong Mama Mini for steaming hot dumplings – the mackerel is something of a house signature. Continue on to Degraves Street for dessert: Melbourne-born gelato shop par excellence Pidapipo is the place to indulge, and a splash of chocolate from the Nutella fountain atop your chosen scoop is a non-negotiable.

Federation Square is the next stop on any exploration of the city. This arts precinct is the universal meeting spot for locals, who flock here along with tourists to visit the interesting cluster of cultural institutions: ACMI, in celebration of all things film related, The Ian Potter Centre, and the Koorie Heritage Trust. Take one of  KHT’s Birrarung Wilam guided walks (everyday at 1pm) along the Birrarung Marr, the Aboriginal name for the Yarra River. You’ll visit places of cultural significance and hear stories of the river.

If you’ve got any more gas left in the tank for sightseeing then hop aboard the City Circle Tram, which loops around the major sights and offers an audio commentary. Moreover, riding the line’s heritage W-class trams, with their beautiful timber interiors is completely free.

EVENING

Kick off the evening with an aperitif at a Melbourne icon, riverside. Arbory Bar & Eatery is a hit with the after-work knock-offs crowd, pumping come 6pm on a Friday. Or for a quirky archetypal Melbourne watering hole visit tiny Ponyfish Island, hidden under a bridge across the Yarra, like a pontoon.

There’s a glut of great restaurants to uncover, so might we suggest a progressive dinner? Flinders Lane is practically ground zero for culinary cachet in Melbourne, with Chin Chin, Coda, Kisumé and a trio of Andrew McConnell eateries (Cumulus Inc, Supernormal, and Gimlet) all crowding the streetscape.

Stop in for a nightcap at Little Lon Distilling Co, a CBD 20-seat craft gin distillery and cocktail bar, housed within a heritage-listed red brick cottage (c1877).

Day two

MORNING

Queen Victoria Market has been serving the people of Melbourne for well over 140 years, and it’s the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere. Browse hundreds of small businesses selling everything from fresh veg to souvenirs. Grab a coffee from another local indie operator, Market Lane Coffee, from inside the Dairy Produce Hall, and while you’re there, stock up on provisions. You’ll find an array of vendors with small goods, fresh bread, pastries, pâtés, and cheeses. A quick trip to the Borek Shop should set you up until lunchtime. And don’t leave without picking up a bag of hot, sugar-coated doughnuts from American Doughnut Kitchen.

MIDDAY

Australia’s oldest and most visited public art museum, the main gallery of the NGV is always worth a visit for its headlining international shows, as well as its permanent collection, home to 70,000-plus works of art.

For a slice of greenery, there are few spots more dreamy than the immaculately manicured Royal Botanic Gardens, featuring a smorgasbord of different flora and habitats. Lush green lawns (perfect for your picnic), an ornamental lake you can punt on, a forest walk, an arid garden full of cacti, and more. Perch under a parasol at lakeside cafe The Terrace, with a glass of bubbly before heading off.

EVENING

Melbourne’s East End Theatre District is alive and well, and home to a host of historic theatres, many dating back to the 19th and early 20th centuries. Catch a play, musical, opera or ballet before hitting the only CBD restaurant that can match the drama, glamour and beauty of a show, Reine & La Rue. The former Melbourne Stock Exchange, with its soaring vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows and granite columns, is a showstopper, and the French fare on offer at this hatted restaurant is equally inspiring.

Take to the rooftops for a nightcap. Victoria’s capital is known for its array of towering open-air bars that capture the glittering city skyline at night. Rooftop Bar at Curtin House is a failsafe, and one of the city’s OG’s.

Day three

MORNING

Once you’ve had enough coffee, culture and shopping within the inner-city’s tightly packed grid, it’s time to explore the personality packed suburbs: head to Fitzroy for vintage clothes, op shopping and bohemian cafes; Carlton (Melbourne’s Little Italy) for leafy streets lined with boutiques, bookstores and Italian eateries; or Prahran for its eclectic mix of swish brunch spots, hipster bars and a historic market.

MIDDAY

Just four kilometres from the CBD, Abbotsford Convent was built in the 1800s and sits on six hectares of gardens and land; today it’s Australia’s largest multi-arts precinct. Drop into some of the resident artists’ studios, visit St Heliers Street Gallery and wander the grounds. Stick around at the convent for lunch, and dine al fresco under the cloisters at local favourite all-day diner Cam’s. Inside, the interiors feel inviting and lived-in, all timber, warm lighting and cosy booths. The menu leans Continental, with a handful of pastas and risottos and a number of small share plates.

EVENING

Go out with a bang at one of the city’s most prestigious eateries. Hit Vue De Monde for city views and refined dining on the 55th floor of the Rialto Building; try Attica for inventive, cutting-edge cuisine with a laser focus on native ingredients; or pay a visit to lauded Chinatown stalwart Flower Drum for Cantonese fine dining with an elegant ambience.

While the night’s still young, check out Melbourne’s much vaunted live music scene: The Richmond Corner Hotel, the historic CBD Forum, or Northcote Theatre are some of the city’s pre-eminent venues.