Tall London Plane trees, fascinating Art Deco architecture, and a small, peaceful beach give Elwood a great deal of character. This Melbourne suburb is home to many underrated cafes and wine bars, framed by a slower lifestyle than the rest of the vibrant city.

The Elwood of today is a far cry from its swampy history. And while, above all else, we recommend just taking the time to get lost in this suburb, there are a few things to do in Elwood that we want to highlight for our readers.

And this goes beyond just taking a dip at Elwood Beach or popping by the famously relaxed and diverse Elwood Farmers Market.

First, some geography: Elwood is located just 8 km south-east of Melbourne CBD and fits comfortably into the crescent of Port Phillip Bay, brimming with life and drawing much of its visual appeal from the Edwardian and interwar Art Deco apartments that line the area’s 30 or so leafy streets. A first-timer may notice that all these streets have been named for famous poets and authors. This is a quirky decision by St Kilda Council from the 1850s onwards, and it’s given Elwood a certain charm that aligns with Melbourne’s reputation as a city of culture.

The eccentric use of poetry on street signs earned this inner suburb the nickname “Poet’s Corner," representing a stark contrast with the suburb’s past. Back then, Elwood Canal (then Elster Creek) would regularly flood and bring about all kinds of nastiness from the border of St Kilda to Point Ormond. Now, Elwood is known as one of Melbourne’s top suburbs, popular for its relaxed lifestyle and multicultural dining scene.

Things to do in Elwood

Life moves more slowly in Elwood. This affable neighbourhood is not only physically sheltered by the crescent, but the breezy bayside lifestyle feels completely disconnected from the city, with its own distinctive sense of place. Here’s how to live like a local on your next trip.

Swim at Elwood Beach

They might not quite reach the heights of Melbourne’s hatted eateries, but the Elwood Beach Huts – dotted colourfully along the foreshore, selling simple food, coffee and ice cream – are a wonderful place to set up for a shady afternoon overlooking the water. In summer, there’s a selection of beach huts, food vans and eateries along the foreshore, stretching from Point Ormond (you know you’re there when you see the white tower on the top of a hill) down to the southern border at Brighton. Consistently calm conditions make for excellent swimming conditions.

Hike to Point Ormond

Originally known as Little Red Bluff, this elevated section overlooking Elwood Beach is a great place for a leisurely walk with beautiful views of the horizon. The well-worn path is clearly marked so you’ll spot many families out walking their dogs during the day and a few picnickers scattered about. Head to the white tower on the hill for the best views of Elwood Beach’s golden sand.

Take a walk along Elwood canal

One of the most charming things about Elwood is its low-lying streets, which, as you head inland, filter downwards, running along the canal into Elsternwick. Major works to drain the former swampland and construct Elwood Canal began in the late 19th century, with the canal completed to Glen Huntly Road in 1897 and the remaining reclamation works completed in the early 20th century.

It’s a grand feature, planted with an array of beautiful native vegetation. Take a walk along the canal, day or night, and you’ll also get an unbridled view of some of the suburb’s most luxurious and historic homes.

Take a (self-guided) architectural tour

Elwood’s nickname, Poet’s Corner, isn’t without merit. Nor is it only because of the street signs. The area’s collection of fascinating Art Deco buildings offers a heady dose of inspiration, making a self-guided architectural tour the single best thing to do in Elwood.

The majority of these rich, detailed buildings – mostly apartment complexes – are clustered in the street triangle of Barkly, Tennyson, and Glen Huntly. We suggest starting around Mitford and Southey Streets and working your way towards Ormond Road to see some of the highlights.

The castle-like complex at 9 Southey Street is always a favourite, as is the red-brick Monton at 2 Avoca Avenue.

Watch the skydivers soar

Watching skydivers descend towards the foreshore is one of the colourful joys of this stretch of the bay. If you’re not prepared to take the plunge yourself, take a picnic rug and park yourself between Elwood and St Kilda beaches, just south of St Kilda Marina.

If you’re looking to try something new, take the plunge yourself with Skydive Melbourne. Its beachfront Melbourne operation is based around St Kilda, with M.O. Moran Reserve used as the foreshore meeting and landing area. It’s a drive out to the takeoff point, but you’ll be safely back by the bay afterwards.

Shop at Elwood’s best boutiques

Elwood’s busy shopping strips lean into neighbouring Ripponlea and Elsternwick, offering a great variety of goods from health food at The Staple Store and beautiful bouquets at Elwood Flowers, to eco-friendly gifts at Muku and various treasures at South Village Trading.

These shopping streets may lack the density of Melbourne’s CBD, but take some time to explore the curated selection of shops and products, and you just may end up making Elwood a regular stop.

Where to eat in Elwood

From one of the best Turkish restaurants in Melbourne to a collection of consistently excellent cafes, the residents of Elwood are spoilt when it comes to breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Lezzet

Located along Brighton Road, Lezzet is dedicated to the rich diversity of Anatolian cuisine, focusing primarily on Turkish food while travelling across Iran, Armenia, Bulgaria, Syria, and Israel. The massive menu has several highlights, including grilled squid stuffed with spicy pilav, Victorian mussels, slow-cooked tomatoes, green olive salsa, and onions.

Address: 81 Brighton Rd, Elwood

Odyssey

Waving the flag high for traditional Greek food, Odyssey is one of those hidden favourites that make Elwood such a treasure trove for foodies. The kitchen keeps things classic but has its stronger moments, like the slow-cooked octopus pasta, massive lamb souvlaki, and those moreish halloumi chips that hit the perfect spot after a swim at Elwood Beach.

Address: 100 Ormond Rd, Elwood

Repeat Offender

Repeat Offender was once considered the best of all the characteristically homely Elwood cafes. But owner Jayben Newson switched things up during the pandemic, transforming this modest space at the junction of Ormond Road and St Kilda Street into an ode to the sprightly flavours of Mexico, combined with influences from across the globe. The kitchen has a strong dedication to gluten-free cooking, with the entire current menu gluten-free. It’s dinner when Repeat Offender really comes alive.

Address: 201 Ormond Rd, Elwood

Curry Leaf

Located along Brighton Road, Curry Leaf Cafe is Elwood’s best Indian restaurant, popular for the kitchen’s keto tandoori sizzling platters and a great deal of Indo-Chinese dishes alongside classic curries. Those heavier signatures like lamb shank curry and Bengali jalfrezi pair best with the bar’s fruit-forward cocktails, but locals mostly go for the Indian kebabs and enjoy them down at Elwood Beach.

Address: 101 Brighton Rd, Elwood

Figo Pizza

Figo Pizza, a humble 20-table friggitoria serving Roman comfort food, is where Elwood locals go for a greasy good time. The pizza menu is extensive with classic and modern toppings, while the appetisers hit just as hard. Your carbonara pizza with pancetta, garlic, eggs, and cheese will go down much better if it’s preceded by a plate of hearty baked Sardinian pecorino with caramelised walnuts and honey.

Address: 73 Brighton Rd, Elwood

Elwood Bathers

Elwood Bathers could just as easily be your rich mate’s holiday home down on the Mornington Peninsula. The owners have gone through great effort to make this venue a true extension of the beach, welcoming guests to the golden sand with a solid wine list championing local drops and a stream of fresh seafood, with the kitchen favouring minimalism over extravagance.

Boosted by that million-dollar view, the beach house aesthetic means Elwood Bathers is best after a quick dip in the bay.

Address: 15 Elwood Foreshore, Elwood

Little Sunflower Cafe

Little Sunflower Cafe isn’t for everyone, but it should be. Health is taken seriously in this small space, where the husband-and-wife owners Angie Robertson and Grant Waters believe deeply in activated, raw, soaked, sprouted, and fermented foods.

Years ago, you’d only find somewhere like this up around Byron Bay, but Elwood locals have quickly taken to the duo’s commitment to clean eating using some of Australia’s most valuable suppliers, including Pepe Saya, Yarra Valley Produce, and Allpress Coffee. The 36-seat interior is lined with medicine bottles, mirroring the food-as-healing approach.

Address: 15 Ormond Rd, Elwood

Jerry’s Milk Bar

Elwood’s very own vintage milk bar. Jerry’s has been standing in the same Barkly Street spot for decades, pitched as the suburb’s grand dame and a flag-bearer for the bayside suburb.

Current owners Jordy Catalano, Oliver Gualano and Nick Forge gave the space a lifeline during the 2020 lockdowns, modernising Jerry’s while retaining many original details like vintage mirrors and pendants. Almost everything about the decor has changed, but the cafe’s menu still has the classic approach with simple dishes like baked eggs and ricotta pancakes done exceptionally well with top-shelf produce and some of the best thicker-than-thick thickshakes this side of town.

Address: 345 Barkly St, Elwood

Elwood Patisserie & Bakery

A staple of Glen Huntley Road, Elwood Patisserie & Bakery offers a great range of mostly French baked goods and some of the best coffee in the area. Unconcerned with being anything more than a neighbourhood bakery, you may find that most locals are popping in and out for those incredible lemon tarts. The kitchen still offers a nice selection of classic breakfast and lunch dishes.

Address: 75 Glen Huntly Rd, Elwood

Plain Sailing

Sitting at the base of an apartment building near Elwood Beach, Plain Sailing comes from the same team behind Prahran favourite Tall Timber and Carnegie’s Left Field. And it’s just as sophisticated, with an abundance of floor-to-ceiling windows pulling all that natural light in to highlight those gorgeous brass finishings. While the majority of Elwood’s dining scene prefers simplicity, the kitchen is also quite creative with an ever-changing lunch menu that borrows heavily from Middle Eastern cuisines.

Address: 144 Ormond Rd, Elwood

Combi Coffee

Combi began life as a nomadic coffee truck but soon turned into one of Elwood’s most beloved cafes after co-owner Penny Loughnan studied integrative nutrition and worked as a health coach in New York City.

Since moving to a bigger space in 2010, Combi is a complete ode to healthy living, powered by its juice offering, superfood bowls, and spread of health-conscious cakes that can be enjoyed up until 3 PM each day. Almond milk is made onsite, while the coffee is roasted weekly offsite by Combi.

Address: 138-140 Ormond Rd, Elwood

Where to stay in Elwood

While you won’t find any hotels (or even hostels) in this suburb, there are a handful of notable Airbnb listings to get across in case you are wondering where to stay in Elwood.

Serene Coastal Haven

Just a few minutes from Elwood Beach, the two-bedroom Serene Coastal Haven is bright, airy and modern. Many of Elwood’s best cafes are just a quick walk down the street, so this is a great base for anyone wanting to seamlessly switch to the leisurely pace locals have become so accustomed to.

Address: 16 Joyce Street, Elwood

Poets Retreat

Located in a quieter area of Elwood, the peaceful Poets Retreat is a bright two-bedroom apartment located on the ground floor. An oversized lounge room means there’s plenty of space to relax with a good book in hand; the well-dressed bathroom has a separate soaking tub and shower, and the generous kitchen is decked out with best-in-class equipment.

Address: 37 Tennyson Street, Elwood

Lalique

Open-plan living is complemented by both antique furniture and colourful, contemporary artwork at Lalique. With great reviews, guests reference the boutique home’s harmonious design language, offering calm and contentment.

A private courtyard with BBQ facilities just adds to the charm and makes this particular boutique listing more suited to longer stays in the area. Originally two bedrooms, the apartment has been redesigned with just one oversized master bedroom, as it appears this spot is most popular for couples.

Address: 30 Docker Street, Elwood