Neighbourhood guide: Elwood

hero media
With so much life and energy around the Australian Open in summer, escape the heat and head down south to Elwood, where quaint suburban pockets, heritage homes, vibrant cafes, and wine bars await.

It’s just eight kilometres from Melbourne’s CBD, yet Elwood feels like a town unto itself. Walk east along the canal from Ormond Esplanade on a late summer afternoon and you’ll notice it feels rather like an island: a small beach suburb in the south of Melbourne that is – by way of culture, community spirit, and public transport – a sea apart from the rest of city.

Like most islands, Elwood has developed its own calm, sophisticated way of life. The people are kind and young, and always outdoors. When you’re out walking the wide avenues, marked with big old plane trees and historic Art Deco homes, you’ll catch smiles from mums with prams, and restaurant owners standing out in the street talking to patrons.

By day, locals and visitors gather at Elwood Beach where the breeze rolls off Port Phillip Bay and cools the neighbouring streets. By night, the town transforms as Ormond Road establishments open out onto the footpath for some of the best alfresco dining south of the city. In decades past, Elwood has seen many different lives. As evolution would have it, Elwood’s famed cabaret scene of the 1970s and early 1980s dwindled in the latter part of the century, as its quiet neighbourhood streets and proximity to the city started to attract affluent young families. Alas, today you’ll have to venture into neighbouring St Kilda for late-night action.

Yet even without the raw edge, Elwood is a place of history and beauty, dominated by heritage-listed homes and buildings that remain unchanged from the early and middle stages of last century, which make it a quaint and beautiful place to live and visit. If you need to escape the notorious heat during January’s Australian Open, take the short ride to Elwood Beach and spend the day taking in the village.

Wake up with A Girl Called Jayne

Elwood springs to life every morning at Elwood Junction, the intersection of Broadway, Ormond, and Glen Huntley roads. It’s a vibrant street scene, as cyclists and beachgoers descend on local cafes for morning coffee. A Girl Called Jayne recently opened at the iconic junction in the space previously occupied by Turtle Cafe; a perfect vantage point for people-watching. The cafe is run by head chef Yannick Beaucaine, whose distinguished career spans kitchens in Europe and Australia. He studied molecular gastronomy in Paris before working at two Michelin-starred restaurants, Paris Le Jules Verne and Chateau des Avenieres. While ‘Jayne’ is a little more laid back than Le Jules Verne – which is located in the Eiffel Tower – the simple menu still impresses with a selection of contemporary bistronomy-style dishes from around the world.

Get in touch with nature along the canal

One of the most charming things about Elwood is its low-lying streets, which, as you head inland, filter downwards, running all the way along the canal into Elsternwick. In the early part of last century, Elwood was an inland swamp, but when the area began to gentrify in the 1980s the local council revitalised the low-lying areas with the Elwood Canal. It’s a grand and ubiquitous feature, planted with an array of beautiful native vegetation. Take a walk along the canal, day or night, and you’ll also get an unbridled view of some of the suburb’s most luxurious and historic homes.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

Go raw at Combi Coffee

Healthy eating and all-day exercise gear is at the heart of every Elwood stereotype, thanks in no small part to Combi Coffee. But in spite of the clichés, Combi has an authentic and inspired approach to healthy fare, with its vegan-friendly menu. Inspired by owner Penny Loughnan, who, among other things, has spent time in the USA learning about cold-pressed juices, staples include the house-made raw organic zucchini spaghetti, sweet sprouted bread with tahini and banana slices, choc mint cheesecake, and the almond latte. Almond milk is made onsite, while the coffee is roasted weekly offsite by Combi.

Watch the skydivers soar

At the weekend, watching skydivers land on the lawn at Elwood Beach is one of the colourful joys of summer. If you’re not prepared to take the plunge yourself, take a picnic rug and park yourself between Elwood and St Kilda beaches, just south of St Kilda Marina. On the hour, parades of parachuters land on the open space to the applause of the crowd.

If you’re looking to try something new, take the plunge yourself with Melbourne Skydive. They’re out over Port Philip Bay between Friday and Monday. It’s a drive out to the takeoff point, but you’ll be safely back in Elwood for lunch.

Pick and choose at Elwood Beach

They might not quite reach the heights of Melbourne’s hatted eateries, but the Elwood Beach Huts – dotted colourfully along the foreshore, selling simple food, coffee and ice cream – are a wonderful place to set up for a shady afternoon overlooking the water. In summer, there’s a selection of beach huts, food vans and eateries along the foreshore, stretching from Point Ormond (you’re there when you see the white tower on the top of a hill) all the way down to the southern border at Brighton. If you’re in luck, you’ll stumble across Pinchy’s in the Point Ormond car park. The air stream caravan parks itself in Elwood for the summer and serves Maine-style lobster rolls, with pickles, crunchy chips, and ice-cream sandwiches.

hero media

The best new accommodation along the Great Ocean Road

    Louis Costello Louis Costello
    A new wave of retreats, hotels, glamping sites and more is encouraging visitors to savour their time spent along the Great Ocean Road.

    Long holding a place as one of Australia’s most rewarding drives, cliffs, curves and shifting coastal light continue to draw travellers to Victoria’s coastline year after year. What has evolved more quietly is the range of new accommodation along the Great Ocean Road to add new dimensions to the drive.

    Rather than competing for attention, these stays are shaped by their settings. They sit beside rivers, among vines, on the edge of lakes and close to town centres where local life unfolds at an unhurried pace. Together, they point to a way of travelling the Great Ocean Road that values time spent in place, as much as distance covered.

    1. The Monty, Anglesea

    Nina Cantina at the monty great ocean road
    Pop into Nina Cantina for tacos and views.

    Anglesea has always appealed to travellers drawn to a quieter stretch of coast, where surf culture, bushland and river scenery blend into one. The Monty complements that character with a recent rebrand and refresh with traditional beach road trip nostalgia in mind. Mid-century retro decor means rooms are contemporary and funky, without being over-styled.

    A highlight of the stay is Nina Cantina, the on-site Mexican restaurant overlooking the Anglesea River. Opening in 2026, it will undoubtedly become a popular gathering point, bringing together locals, day trippers and overnight guests. Watch the river flow while tucking into plates of tacos, before enjoying a digestion swim in The Monty’s pool.

    Mornings in Anglesea often begin quietly. Kangaroos are a familiar sight on the nearby golf course, and walking tracks wind through heathland that reflects the natural landscape of the Surf Coast. From here, the road south feels like a continuation rather than a departure, easing travellers into the next stretch of the journey.

    2. Basalt Retreats, Port Fairy

    Basalt Retreat Private Villa interior
    Discover this new adults-only retreat.

    Near Port Fairy, Basalt Retreats is an adults-only delight set among a 24-year-old vineyard at Basalt Wines. The accommodation is a mixture of luxury and linens (and ultra comfy beds), allowing the long stretches of grapes to take centre stage. As the sun sets, Basalt Retreats settles into stillness. With minimal light pollution, the night sky becomes part of the experience, and star-searchers will delight in the uninterrupted views of our vast universe.

    Poombeeyt Koontapool lookout
    See Poombeeyt Koontapool from the lookout.

    Staying along the Great Ocean Road western region gives you en route access to coastal landmarks. A visit to Poombeeyt Koontapool at Loch Ard Gorge is a must for those fascinated by natural blowholes, with enough walking trails to tucker out the most seasoned hiker.

    The Poorpa Yanyeen Meereeng Trail between Timboon and Port Campbell reveals how wetlands, farmland and coastline connect across the region, best appreciated on foot or by bike.

    3. Lake Colac Holiday Park, Colac

    cabin at Lake Colac Holiday Park
    Book into a cabin at Lake Colac Holiday Park.

    Lake Colac Holiday Park introduces new cabin accommodation set along the edge of a broad volcanic lake. The cabins are modern and light-filled, designed to make the most of the water views and open skies.

    Lake Colac plays an important role in local life, hosting community events and everyday rituals alike. Staying here offers insight into the agricultural heart of the Great Ocean Road region, where the pace is shaped by seasons rather than sightseeing schedules.

    Brae Restaurant great ocean road victoria
    Have a delicious lunch, then join a farm tour at Brae Restaurant. (Image: Visit Vic)

    Colac’s central location places visitors within reach of standout regional experiences. Otways Distillery’s Birregurra cellar door reflects the surrounding forest in its approach to spirits. While Brae Restaurant’s guided farm and kitchen garden tours offer a closer look at the land that underpins its acclaimed dining. Together, they highlight the strong connection between produce, place and people.

    4. Glamping tents, Apollo Bay Recreation Reserve

    Apollo Bay Recreation Reserve Glamping
    Take a breather in Apollo Bay with brand new glamping tents.

    Back on the coast, Apollo Bay has always been known to be a natural place to take a breather, sitting roughly at the Great Ocean Road’s midway point. The brand-spanking new glamping tents at the Apollo Bay Recreation Reserve offer comfortable accommodation that remains closely connected to the outdoors. With ensuite bathrooms and thoughtfully designed interiors, the cabin-tent hybrids offer enough privacy and luxuries to make the trip feel more luxurious than your standard camping affair.

    Set near the river and within walking distance of the town centre, the location allows guests to move easily between beach walks, forest drives and relaxed meals.

    A session at The Corner Sauna fits naturally into a stay here. The wood-fired sauna has become part of Apollo Bay’s way of life, offering warmth and restoration after time spent in the elements (also known as a frolic at the beach).

    Apollo Bay Fishermens Co-op
    Enjoy fresh seafood at Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-op.

    Apollo Bay has enough to entertain and dazzle travellers more than your average town. Graze on fresh seafood at local cafes – like Graze or Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-op before venturing to nearby waterfalls. Spend hours kayaking among real-life seals, try your hand at surf lessons taught by understanding and patient guides, or simply spend your days reading a book while the surf crashes in front of you.

    Together, these new accommodation openings highlight the Great Ocean Road’s continued evolution. With more places that invite travellers to slow down and stay a little longer, the journey becomes less about rushing between landmarks and more about engaging with the unique towns along the way.

    Start planning your next trip along the Great Ocean Road at visitgreatoceanroad.org.au.