20 must-have experiences on the coolest street in the world

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A local’s guide to where to dine, drink and shop in Northcote, Thornbury and Preston.

A bohemian, arty, family- and dog-friendly enclave in Melbourne’s inner north, the High Street corridor that runs between Northcote, Thornbury and Preston is home to a litany of hangouts: record shops, indie cinemas, restaurants with hidden courtyards, bars housed in former churches, hatted restaurants that feature lasagne on speed dial.

Between these newer venues, you’ll find humble unmarked souvlaki joints, retro espresso rooms and Asian grocers, which hint at the Greek, Italian and Chinese communities that have long called the area home.

That High Street is almost entirely devoid of any chains, is perhaps part of the appeal for many local residents, myself included, and might just help explain why this unassuming drag was named ‘the world’s coolest street’ by Time Out in early 2024.

Scenes from High Street in Northcote Melbourne
High Street in Melbourne’s Inner North was crowned the world’s coolest street by Time Out in 2024. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Beyond High Street’s bricks and mortar, it’s the welcoming vibe and pumping events scene that makes this little corner of Melbourne feel so alive. On each and every corner it seems as if you can find live music streaming out on a weekend. And festivals such as 2023’s inaugural The Eighty-Six (named after the tram that trundles up and down the street) and Northcote Rise, bring the community, with its shared love of music, even closer together.

If you’re stopping by Northcote, Thornbury or Preston, consider this your little black book of restaurants, bars, bakeries and shops.

People cross the road on High Street, Northcote
The street isn’t overrun with chains but features everything from record shops and retro espresso rooms to hatted restaurants. (Image: Visit Victoria)

1. 1800 Lasagne, Thornbury

No list would be complete without a nod to this local institution (if it’s good enough for Jamie Oliver…).

Exterior of 1800 Lasagne on High Street Melbourne, Australia
1800 Lasagne is a vibe. (Image: Phoebe Powell)

Not only is the food at 1800 Lasagne consistently on point, but the dimly-lit space and cosy, ‘70s-esque decor is a vibe, the staff always seem to hit that perfect pitch of down-to-earth and attentive yet not intrusive or overbearing, and the cocktails are oh so moreish.

Interior of 1800 Lasagne on High Street Melbourne, Australia
Get comfy inside the dimly-lit, cosy, ‘70s-esque space. (Image: Phoebe Powell)

While lasagne is their signature dish, we’d argue that some of the starters and sides have become icons in their own right (cos wedge salad, we’re looking at you). Trust us, you need to book in advance.

Food spread at 1800 Lasagne on High Street Melbourne, Australia
Lasagne is the signature dish. (Image: Phoebe Powell)

2. Wesley Anne, Northcote

This cavernous, grungy bar and restaurant might look run-of-the-mill from outside, but inside it’s anything but. Cross the threshold and you’ll enter the skeleton of a 160-year-old church, all stone walls, high ceilings and exposed beams. Cosy up by candlelight at one of Wesley Anne’s timber booths in winter, or make a beeline for the eclectically styled courtyard come summer.

3. Thornbury Picture House, Thornbury

A cute-as-a-button indie cinema, Thornbury Picture House lies within an art-nouveau garage dating to 1919.

Thornbury Picture House on High Street in Melbourne
The indie cinema is housed within an art-nouveau garage dating to 1919. (Image: Gusto Films)

Owners – and husband and wife team – Gus and Lou worked in the film industry for many years before pouring their heart and soul into this characterful venue, which prioritises independent movies, but also shows blockbusters at this single-screen cinema. They’ve even started their very own film festival, Northern Lights, which has a strong focus on local short films.

Inside Thornbury Picture House on High Street in Melbourne
The venue is full of character. (Image: Gusto Films)

Forget the trailers: come early, take a seat in the old undercover forecourt and tuck into a negroni instead. There are hyperlocal snacks on offer too: think choc-tops from Preston and arancini from across the road at longtime local favourite Umberto’s.

Aerial view of High Street, Northcote in Melbourne's Inner North
Find Umberto’s across the street from the cinema. (Image: @ipixel101)

4. Tinker, Northcote

Long a pitstop for Melbourne’s weekend brunch crowd, Tinker remains at the top of its game. The menu changes seasonally and tends to showcase reimagined classics; think zucchini and halloumi fritters with cucumber mint yoghurt and mango chilli relish, and eggs Benny on a cornbread waffle with apple and fennel slaw.

Waitress at Tinker holds two breakfast plates of food
The menu changes seasonally but is always full of delicious options. (Image: Kate Durham)

Doggos are also more than welcome in the courtyard or on one of the pavement tables out front, perfect for people-watching.

Woman holds her dog at Tinker in Melbourne
Tinker welcomes dogs in its outdoor spaces.

See also: Short Round, Thornbury.

Inside Short Round in Melbourne
Short Round is another standout cafe to visit.

5. Juju’s Deli, Thornbury

Juju’s has quickly become something of a cult classic thanks to its sizable focaccia sandwiches. Choose from a lineup of seven different sangas, two of which are veggie, and be prepared to queue.

Juju's Deli sandwich shop in Melbourne
The sandwiches at Juju’s Deli can’t be beat.

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6. Arepa Days, Preston

Technically speaking this vibrant little Colombian cafe sits on Preston Street, though you’ll only have to take two steps off of High Street to reach it.

A small, homely and bohemian place with just a handful of tables, Arepa Days has its very own ‘lab’ dedicated to making each arepa from scratch, its white corn sourced from Queensland.

The pockets are stuffed with all manner of delectable smallgoods, such as chargrilled chorizo, morcilla (black pudding), and bacon, as well as your regular breakfast fixings (think guacamole, eggs and feta).

But arguably the jewel in the crown of this lovely little establishment is its jars of homemade picadillo and chimichurri that adorn every table and are practically perfect smothered on almost anything.

7. Mali Bakes, Thornbury

Patchanida Chimkire is in the business of custom celebration cakes, and at her Thornbury HQ you can watch the baking team in action from the street, behind shop windows dressed with dried flowers.

Ordinarily, Mali Bakes is not open to the public. But stop by on a Saturday and you can road test cakes by the slice. Pedestrian Victoria sponge is not on the menu here – instead, you’ll find multilayered creations bursting with flavour: orange yoghurt cake filled with roasted strawberry, fresh orange and yuzu buttercream, or olive oil ricotta cake filled with blackberry and fennel jam, sea salt, and honey buttercream, for example.

Patchanida’s cakes are visually arresting too; retro, ornate, pastel-hued works of art, featuring piped icing sashes and swirls, sugar pearls and garnished with cherries.

See also: Holy Sugar.

Cakes at Holy Sugar
Holy Sugar is another excellent nearby choice for baked goods.

8. All Are Welcome, Northcote and Thornbury

Such is the clamour for All Are Welcome’s baked goods, that this High Street standout found cause to open another outlet just seven minutes’ drive true north of the original.

All Are Welcome, Melbourne exterior
All Are Welcome is a High Street standout. (Image: Emily Weaving)

While the latter venue in Thornbury offers the same dreamy smorgasbord of buttery baked goodness, the former, in Northcote, comes up trumps for sitting in. There’s a gorgeous nook featuring tiered timber seating outside and complimentary sparkling water on tap.

Woman sitting outside All Are Welcome in Melbourne
All Are Welcome is located in Northcote and Thornbury. (Image: Emily Weaving)

Expect a mix of savoury and sweet pastries, with a lean towards recipes from the Caucasus, as well as good coffee and plenty of provisions to take home (think loaves, cheeses, butter and spreads).

It’s owned and run by Russian-American Boris Portnoy, whose CV includes experience at Michelin-starred restaurants where he worked as head pastry chef.

Pastries at All Are Welcome in Melbourne
Expect a mix of savoury and sweet pastries. (Image: Emily Weaving)

9. Before March, Northcote

Sporting a minimalist aesthetic that would look at home in any Scandi capital, Before March is hyper-focused on cultivating a collection of high-end, little-known labels built to last a lifetime, with a focus on classic tailoring and functional clothing.

This small, bright and airy store also zeroes in on brands that embrace the principles of slow fashion by using natural fibres, deadstock fabrics, oeko-tex-certified textiles and recycled materials.

Goods wrapped for sale at Before March
Head to Before March to shop high-end, little-known labels.

10. Green Horse, Northcote

A boutique devoted to organic, sustainable and fair-trade fashion, beauty and homewares, it’s hard to leave Green Horse without finding a little something you ‘need’. The store stocks a coterie of finds from ethical powerhouses, many of which are Australian-owned and operated, such as bags by Bellroy, toiletries by Leif and clothing by Kowtow.

Green Horse on High Street in Melbourne
Green Horse is a boutique devoted to organic, sustainable and fair-trade fashion, beauty and homewares.

Specialising in ethically made Australian pieces, the experience at this High Street store is a far cry from what you’ll find at Melbourne’s malls.

Jewellery from Comune Gallery on High Street, Melbourne
Comune Gallery specialises in ethically made Australian pieces.

The clue is in the name (hint, ‘gallery’), and the ornamental artworks on display are handmade and original, often by local jewellers. Beyond the contemporary fine jewellery exhibited, customers at Comune can also commission bespoke rings, necklaces, earrings and bangles.

People gathering at Comune Gallery on High Street, Melbourne
Customers can commission bespoke rings, necklaces, earrings and bangles.

12. Mutual Muse, Northcote

This Northcote consignment store regularly wins rave reviews for its inclusive sizing, carefully edited seasonal collection, and refusal to sell anything from a fast fashion chain.

Beyond clothing, you can peruse second-hand sunglasses, jewellery, shoes and accessories.

The shop itself is also a beautiful space to wander: the changing room’s brick walls are doused in a smoky pistachio green; pendant lights hang from the ceiling; and a mesmerising painting by First Nations artist Adam Leng sits in pride of place above the shop counter.

Inside Mutual Muse store
Mutual Muse bans fast fashion from its store.

See also: Use-Ta! a Thornbury store selling pre-loved clothing for babies and kids, as well as maternity wear.

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13. Casa Nata, Thornbury

Find me a better Portuguese Tart outside of Portugal and I’ll eat my Akubra.

picking up Portuguese tarts using a tong in Casa Nata, Thornbury
Casa Nata serves authentic Portuguese tarts in Melbourne. (Image: Kate Shanasy)

Drinks aside, Casa Nata sells nothing but these moreish little treats, sunny circles of custard freckled with black caramelised sugar and encased in crunchy, yielding shells of puff pastry. Watch the pastry chefs in action from behind the glass, as you devour one (or three).

Street view of Casa Nata in Melbourne
You can watch the pastry chefs in action from behind the glass at Casa Nata. (Image: Kate Shanasy)

14. Big Dreams, Northcote

A self-described ‘children’s emporium’, Big Dreams is a wonderland full of toys, clothes, toiletries and books sourced from some of the globe’s best boutique labels. Their curated collection includes eco-friendly names and old-school games.

15. Northcote Social Club, Northcote

A pub for all occasions, is there nothing NSC can’t do? Live music is a defining feature of this Northcote stalwart, but the pub grub served here is well beyond your average boozer, the menu spanning from a classic Angus beef burger to crispy skin barramundi with a lemon and chive butter dressing, to vegan-friendly coconut and eggplant kasundi, plus daily specials and plenty of options for kids.

Northcote Social Club exterior
Northcote Social Club is a pub for all occasions.

There are plenty of different areas to settle in for a drink too. A cosy front bar with windows overlooking High Street and a beer garden out the back which features a deck in full sun, a raised little balcony that resembles a treehouse or cubby and a larger undercover area too.

Front bar at Northcote Social Club
The cosy front bar overlooks High Street.

16. Rowdy’s Records, Northcote

There’s certainly no shortage of record shops in this neck of the woods. In fact, you’ll find another four almost within arm’s reach of Rowdy’s Records.

But this little corner store that sells new and used vinyl plus tapes, easily has the most ambience, not to mention plenty of merch, from tees to books. Occasionally you’ll find a live gig happening in the ‘bookstore’ at the back too.

17. Carwyn Cellars, Thornbury

Beer lovers should make a beeline for this independent bottle shop and beer garden, which is something of a northern landmark. Carwyn Cellars has long championed craft producers, purveying both the best in Australian lagers, ales and stouts, as well as hard-to-find international labels across its two dozen-plus taps.

Carwyn Cellars Aperol spritz
Soak up the sun with a spritz. (Image: Carwyn Cellars)

Carwyn frequently runs collabs with local brewers, as well as events and beer subscriptions and gift boxes. While this Thornbury venue is renowned for its beer offering, there’s a fine selection of wine and spirits available too.

the bottleshop at Carwyn Cellars, Thornbury
Choose from an array of wines and spirits. (Image: Carwyn Cellars)

18. Welcome to Thornbury, Thornbury

A food truck park meets sun-drenched beer garden meets arcade, Welcome to Thornbury is an obvious crowd-pleaser. Kids, dogs, young, old: everyone’s welcome at this inner north oasis, which comes alive on summer evenings.

Welcome to Thornbury in Melbourne
Make a beeline for this inner north oasis.

Pull up a pew outside under a striped parasol, pint in hand, and you might enjoy live music as the sun settles below the horizon and the string lights flick on.

Welcome to Thornbury, Northcote, Melbourne
The food truck park and beer garden is a lively spot to visit in the summer months. (Image: Visit Victoria)

19. Preston Market, Preston

Backing onto High Street, this sprawling indoor market is not some chic, sleek space. Rather, Preston Market is a lively, well-loved local institution that proudly parades the area’s rich multicultural heritage, with most of the traders continuing the legacy of their small family business.

Here you’ll find Croatian-run deli counters, a handful of Asian grocers, a Greek fishmonger as well as Turkish borek, hot jam doughnuts and an Indian stall that turns out devilishly good samosas. Despite repeated threats of redevelopment, locals have banded together to ward off unwelcome change at this rustic spot, which dates back to the 1970s.

20. Field Black, Northcote

You’re never far from a good coffee in this neck of the woods. But if you’re after a consistently great flat white or long black, then you’ve come to the right place.

Owned and run by cousins Andra and Andy, Field Black is a triple threat, delivering on coffee, decadent brunch dishes and a personable, warm welcome.

Woman dines at Field Black
The service at Field Black matches the excellent coffee and brunch offerings.

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Chloe Cann
Chloe Cann is an award-winning freelance travel and food writer, born in England, based in Melbourne and Roman by adoption. Since honing her skills at City St George's, University of London with a master's degree in journalism, she's been writing almost exclusively about travel for more than a decade, and has worked in-house at newspapers and travel magazines in London, Phnom Penh, Sydney and Melbourne. Through a mixture of work and pleasure, she's been fortunate enough to visit 80 countries to date, though there are many more that she is itching to reach. While the strength of a region's food scene tends to dictate the location of her next trip, she can be equally swayed by the promise of interesting landscapes and offbeat experiences. And with a small person now in tow, travel looks a little different these days, but it remains at the front of her mind.
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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley

    Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

    The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

    There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd. In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

    Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

    ‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

    Exchanging city chaos for country calm

    kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
    The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

    I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

    The trails and treasures of the Grampians

    sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
    Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

    Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

    Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles. I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

    walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
    Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

    There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail, Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

    Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

    “There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

    wildflowers in Grampians National Park
    Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

    Grampians National Park at sunset
    Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

    The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

    What else is on offer in The Grampians?

    a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
    Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

    You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

    And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

    dining at Pomonal Estate
    Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

    The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

    Salingers of Great Western
    Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

    The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

    Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

    And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

    Kookaburras on a tree
    Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

    You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity.

    Playing there

    abseiling down Hollow Mountain
    Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

    Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors. Visit Wama, Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium.

    Eating there

    steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

    Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate. Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock, can’t be beat.

    Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
    The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

    For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe. Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines, Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines.

    two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.