Meeting new people can be difficult. But a slow-burn hike through WA’s coastal wilderness may be the antidote to loneliness.
“OK, phone’s going off. Gosh, that feels good." This is my introduction to Andy Burgess, one of eight hikers – mostly strangers to one another – who have come together for an ‘open group experience’ through Western Australia’s coastal wilderness. We’ve been striding over granite rock and robust tree roots for maybe a quarter of an hour when Andy sets the tone for our multi-day wander: digital disconnection. I like him immediately.
It feels unusual to set off on the wending Bibbulmun Track not with a bunch of friends or family members, but with a group of unknowns: three blokes and five women. We have 60 kilometres to get to know one another without the usual inconveniences of foot travel: our tents will be pitched for us, inflatable mattresses pumped, beds made with real pillows and fresh towels supplied. Luggage is couriered. Even our meals will be prepared for us to cook, and packed lunches delivered. It’s how things are done by WA hiking outfit Cape2Camp, which is branching out beyond Margaret River for the first time.
The 60-kilometre-long hiking and tenting experience is broken up by beach swims. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
Spot wildflowers along the way. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
The camp set-up follows Leave No Trace principles. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
Cape2Camp caters all meals. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
The ‘walk-in, walk-out’
experience includes showers and campfires. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
Today, we are setting off from the other Denmark (yes, there are two), a forest-speared town some four and a half hours’ drive south of Perth/Boorloo. We’d met by candlelight the night before, tucking into kangaroo bolognaise while getting a briefing from Anne Nordgard, the Norwegian expat behind Cape2Camp, who zips ahead to sprinkle fairy dust for our light-travel arrival.
See kangaroos along the Bibbulmun Track. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
For me – a busy woman juggling work, kids and a social life – the idea of escaping to a far-flung wilderness with not a single obligation to meet is heaven. I wake to roos grazing under native peppermint trees and a kookaburra perched on the campground’s fire hydrant hose, surveying jaunts to the communal bathroom.
Day one
Hit the trail. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
Day one is an ambitious (in my mind) 24-kilometre hike. A strident pace sees the group fragment, but as periphery-bending views of farmland cause each one of us to pause and marvel at black cattle dots on green, we regroup. Conversations spark as feet thread through tall dense reeds and scrub that’s cut closely to the trail edge, with springy heath cushioning Earth’s floor. Talking topics roam from learning to play bass and choosing high schools to family business succession plans and grandparenting styles. Step by step, we connect.
Snake your way along rugged coastal cliffs. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
Before sundown we’ve discovered there’s only one couple in the group; the rest of us have unhooked from partners and kids as we seek renewal in nature. There are many flavours in the crew: a doctor, a geologist, a banker and a government worker. Yet every one of us seems to click.
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Day two
Hikers are dwarfed by the scale of the Great Southern coast. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
A swim at Parry Beach marks day two – more fun than the solar-powered (and therefore cold) camp showers. Our group drops down to six as a knee injury sees the couple head home. There’s consensus that a leisurely start to our 12-kilometre outlook is the way to go. I think I’ve found my people. We lope on a trail now marked by white sand and succulent strands, evolving into the kind of rambling native garden you’d pay a fortune to create. Distant rain magnetises to the ocean, sheets landing in a line of silver. My eyes flick to the immense splash of a whale breaching. A rainbow appears – the first of countless in this region, which was once called the Rainbow Coast. Could this little-known track be one of the most beautiful hikes in Australia?
There are opportunities to spot whales and dolphins along the way. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
The small Cape2Camp group find their rhythm while moving through the landscape. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
Hikers in formation along the shoreline. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
Flowering native grass trees line the trail. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
Wildflowers carpet the coast. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
A distinctive shrub native to the southwest of Western Australia. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
Blisters have got me already. Fellow hikers offer bandaids and wait as I unlace my boots and peel off double sock layers. They’re a supportive bunch; the easy patience and generosity endear us to one another further.
By the time we reach a cove that curls like Wineglass Bay, edged by granite mounds and sparkling pale blue, the group is nearly ready for Andy’s Superman boxers. We’ve opted for an underwear swim, but the fashion choice is a surprise. “It’s a joke gift from my kids at Christmas," he pleads. I dive underwater with eyes open, facing a haze of Tiffany blue. “The water’s so clear I can see the wrinkles in my toes," says Andy, in a last-ditch effort to divert attention.
We arrive to a new bush camp fully set up, a delight celebrated with a local Raintree pinot noir and a sophisticated cheese board. As the Milky Way outdoes a string of fairy lights, we share highlights so far. “It’s the long conversations that are just for joy," says retired GP Marcus Middleton. “Particularly as a bloke, that’s a really rich experience." Financier Nhi To loves the organic connections with people she’d never otherwise meet. “You make all your adult friends through school and the kids," she says. “It’s hard to make friends as adults. When you go on a journey together, it bonds you." In this time of loneliness epidemics, what better salve could there be?
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Day three
The three-day camping trip ensures immersion in nature. (Image: Rachel Claire & Jessica Wyld)
A misting rain coats day three – and I’m hobbling – but we kayak successfully across a river, laughing as more toes are strapped. The white flag goes up after 20 kilometres. We’re collected and driven back to base, three kilometres short of the finish line. As a smuggled-in whisky flagon is gleefully shared, we agree to meet up in a month, our fast-track friendships pledged to last well beyond the enchanting path we’ve travelled.
A traveller’s checklist
Getting there
From Perth/Boorloo, Denmark is about 4.5 hours’ drive south. Alternatively, fly into Albany-Drome Airport and make the 45-minute drive west to Denmark.
Playing there
The Great Southern walk with Cape2Camp is a four-night experience featuring three days of hiking along Western Australia’s Bibbulmun Track, from Ocean Beach to Peaceful Bay. The tour includes all meals, drinks, tented accommodation and hand-luggage transfers between campsites. Prices start from $1290 per person (twin share). Private group bookings are available for a minimum of four guests.
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
With unhurried mornings, long, sun-filled afternoons, evenings shaped around sunset, this iconic beach offers an all-day experience (and it’s about to get even better).
As the sun slowly rises over the languid waves and fine sand of Broome’s Cable Beach, the morning colours shift from rich apricot to pale gold and frosty pearl. Remnants of life reveal themselves in the subtle shadows – crab claw marks, towel impressions, footprints. Life here is unhurried, but don’t be fooled. This town is continually shifting like the desert dunes that surround it.
And with a $75 million upgrade – offering easier and more inclusive access for people of all abilities – it’s getting even better.
Discover the Cable Beach redevelopment.
The addition of comfortable and welcoming spaces has begun (and will continue). This means visitors will be able to spend longer enjoying this beautiful environment, while knowing that the upgrade will create a more environmentally protected setting that preserves the natural character visitors come for. Come sunset, soak it in all the better thanks to the already improved foreshore areas, made for lingering while the light changes. And for the kids, a new splash park and accessible dry playground will make it easy to while away the hours.
Think you know what a day at this beach is like? Think again.
Morning colours
Cable Beach comes alive after sunrise. (Credit: Tourism WA)
As the sun colours the sky, Cable Beach shows signs of life (and not just the aquatic kind). Locals and visitors alike float in the cool water as it laps the shore, landlubbers explore the coast on foot, runners pace and beachside yoga classes bring quiet movement to the day.
When the sky is blue and the sun is firmly in position, head down to the well-known Cable Beach House for a long, slow breakfast overlooking the ocean. Think fresh tropical fruit, eggs cooked your way and strong coffee in the warm morning breeze.
Afternoon adventures
Join a camel train at sunset. (Credit: C J Maddock)
When you’re ready to explore, carve a path along the Minyirr Park Trail – a gentle 1.5-2km track through coastal bushland with spectacular views of the dunes. Refuel at the nearby Spinifex Brewery for lunch with its low-key, outdoor beer garden. There’s even an outdoor playground if you’re travelling with young humans.
Walk off your lazy lunch by watching (or joining) one of the beach soccer or volleyball games, or even try Silent Beats Broome – a silent walking disco through the dunes. Or book a spot on the famous camel trains, watching the sun drop below the horizon along the way. They’re a constant reminder of the fascinating history, landscape and cultural mix in this part of the country.
Evening degustation
Stop into the Cable Beach Club. (Credit: Tourism WA)
As the day closes, watch the world-famous Cable Beach sunset from the appropriately named Sunset Grill at Cable Beach Club. This open-air terraced dining spot overlooking the beach is the kind of place where the view takes centre stage.
While you sip on a lychee, lime & lemonade mocktail or a local beer, enjoy the bustle of life and nature outside as the day comes to an end.
For dinner, nab a table at the Bali Hai Cafe, where they offer pan-fried crispy barramundi, Abrolhos Island scallops and deep-sea snow crab. When you’re ready for bed, check in to Pinctada Hotel Broome – a lush, tropical resort with palm-dotted gardens and a large, lagoon-style pool to cool off in.
Beyond the beach
Beyond the wide, open beach and never-ending sky of Cable Beach, there are many more reasons to visit North West Australia. These are just a few.
Unmatched experiences
Join Shinju Matsuri Festival’s popular Long Table Dinner. (Credit: Tourism WA)
Engage with the history of the land and its people on an Indigenous cultural tour exploring everything from the local wildlife to the tastes of bush tucker. To understand the importance of pearling to this town, take a tour of Chinatown, or head outside of town to the live pearl harvests at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, one of Australia’s oldest pearl farms.
Learn why Japanese pearlers were central to Broome’s pearling success and visit the largest Japanese cemetery in Australia, where 900 Japanese pearlers were buried – a testament to the risks and rewards of this dangerous profession.
And book ahead every spring for when communal tables, freshly cooked local fare and festoon lighting fill the beach for the extremely popular Long Table Dinner on Cable Beach. It’s a highlight of the Shinju Matsuri Festival, along with the Floating Lanterns Matsuri, where you can personalise a lantern and gently release it into the sea to honour those you love.
Dining discoveries
Settle in for Matso’s famous ginger or mango beer. (Credit: Tourism WA)
Further your culinary adventure at the laid-back Sunday Sesh at Matso’s Broome Brewery. Chow down on smoked crocodile or Aussie barramundi while kicking back to a local DJ as the heat of the day fades.
For more tunes, the beautiful outdoor Bay Club at the Mangrove Hotel is a great choice for dinner with live music, DJs or an event that stretches on into the early hours. Still hungry? Pop by Johnny Sausage for Italian-influenced meals paired with impeccable wines.
Natural beauties
Experience the striking colours of Gantheaume Point. (Credit: Tourism WA)
Avoid the crowds and head to Town Beach for a quieter vantage point to see the phenomenal Staircase to the Moon – a natural illusion where the rising full moon is reflected on the tidal flats, creating a shimmering ‘staircase’ stretching up to the sky.
Just south of Cable Beach are the deep red cliffs and dramatic ocean views of Gantheaume Point, where 130-million-year-old dinosaur footprints can be seen, revealed at low tide. Or head to Roebuck Bay to visit the internationally significant wetlands, where vast tidal flats are home to shorebirds and coastal fauna.
Between October and March, watch turtles nesting and hatchlings emerge from the sand. You’ll be holding your breath as they make their way down to the shoreline, ready to start their life in one of Australia’s most beautiful landscapes.