The best ways to experience the pristine Ningaloo Reef

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The pictures you see of World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef almost seem too good to be true: a whale shark cruising towards you as smoothly as an ocean liner, a manta ray executing a perfect loop in crystal clear ocean, turtles stopping to nibble on coral, oblivious you’re watching from less than one metre away, and tropical fish, absolutely everywhere you look.

 

The world’s closest fringing reef has a lot going for it, and that’s before you realise you can actually just wade into it. No need for a lengthy boat ride to reach this extraordinary slab of nature: you simply don a snorkel mask, throw a few lazy freestyle motions through the big blue and by the time your eyes focus, you’re skimming over coral gardens. Yes, you will actually want to pinch yourself – we know from experience.

Coral Bay Turtle
Swimming with turtles at Coral Bay

Base camp: Exmouth or Coral Bay?

Ningaloo Reef stretches along the coast for 300 kilometres and two sun-kissed towns service it with tours, accommodation and fun times: Exmouth and Coral Bay. Larger Exmouth has an airport (called Learmonth) with Qantas flights operating daily and car hire, whereas you’ll need to drive to Coral Bay. Exmouth tips a slender peninsula and the reef and beaches must be reached by road, whereas Coral Bay sits on soft white sands and you can wander to the beachfront on foot. Both towns offer whale shark and humpback whale swim-tours, while manta ray swims are only accessible from Coral Bay.

Swimming with whale sharks

Being wowed by the size of a whale shark is what a swim experience is all about… right? But when you’re watching these gentle giants of the ocean glide by, you’ll notice the white patterns on their backs that appear to be dancing. Like light slicing through ocean, these dots and squiggles are as captivating as the vacuum-like jaws and 300 tiny, harmless teeth of the world’s biggest fish.

whale shark ningaloo reef
Get up close and personal with these gentle giants

 

How: Numerous charter boats run full-day, all-inclusive whale shark trips.

When: March to August

Frolicking with humpbacks

Humpback whales are regarded as the most playful of all the species found along WA’s extensive coastline. It’s estimated about 35,000 of them migrate along the state’s aquatic edge each year, and Ningaloo Reef is at the centre of that journey. Humpback interaction tours allow you to swim to within 30 metres of these immense whales, although many are curious enough to come closer – and if they choose it, it’s allowed. Cross your fingers.

 

How: Numerous charter boats run humpback day trips.

When: August to October

Ballet with manta rays and flying with turtles

Manta rays are astonishingly inquisitive. They’re also far bigger than you might imagine, so when one does a fly-by past your ear, it can be a little unnerving. Keep calm – they don’t have barbs – and join their graceful ocean dance; soon you’ll be doing somersaults and twists, mimicking their movements. Sea turtles tend to look like they’re flying through the water, and there’s a good chance you’ll see plenty on one of these trips. After all, Ningaloo Reef has one of the most biologically diverse marine environments on the planet.

Manta rays ocean
Watch as they effortlessly glide through the water

 

How: Coral Bay’s charter boats hold manta ray swim experiences.

When: All year round

The must-see beaches

In early 2019, West Australians voted Turquoise Bay as the state’s most incredible beach. Its pale sands are captivating, but it’s the phenomenal colour of the water – and what’s beneath it – that we think sees it rated so highly. A gentle current runs parallel with the beach, so snorkellers can walk away from the carpark, step into the water and drift back, watching a veritable showreel of coral and fish as they float. Further south, Coral Bay is another firm favourite. Crystalline water, a motionless lagoon and swimmable access to the reef make this bay hard to beat.

 

How: You can self-drive; from Exmouth, Turquoise Bay is 70 kilometres and Coral Bay is 150 kilometres.

When: All year round

Where the outback meets the ocean

While all eyes are turned to Ningaloo Reef’s coastline, it pays to take a backward glance toward Cape Range National Park. The rugged ranges harbour caves, canyons and rare plant and animal species such as the white-centred Sturt’s Desert Pea and shy, black-footed rock wallabies. Join a gorge cruise at Yardie Creek or follow a view-blessed walking trail such as the one at Mandu Mandu Gorge.

Cape Range National Park
The vast and vibrant Cape Range National Park is just as awe-inspiring

 

How: Head there by self-drive or tour; contact the Exmouth Visitor Centre for information

When: All year round but best in the cooler months of April to October

Stay in style

If money’s no object, Sal Salis is your answer. Its exclusive wilderness tents furnished with polished floors and king-size beds are pure outback luxury. Over the dunes, the reef seems closer to shore than anywhere else, and the snorkelling is spectacular. In Exmouth, Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort has 4.5-star hotel rooms or self-contained apartments clustering around its impressive pool and restaurant.

Sal Salis glamping
Immerse yourself in glamping at its finest

 

How: Sal Salis is a one-hour drive from Exmouth, or 90 minutes from the airport; Mantarays is a 15-minute drive from the airport.

When: Sal Salis is open March to October; Mantarays is open year round.

Fleur Bainger
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
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The ultimate Margaret River road trip itinerary for food & wine lovers

Time your visit to Margaret River just right, and you can spend the ultimate weekend wining, dining and exploring the region with Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover.

Wine, world-class produce, surf, sun and beaches: it’s an alluring combination. And the reason so many pin the Margaret River region high on their travel hit-lists. There’s drawcard after drawcard to the southwestern corner of Western Australia, and the Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover food and wine festival showcases the best of it over the course of one weekend in November. It’s never been easier to sip, see and savour the Margaret River region.

In partnership with Pair’d Margaret River Region, Range Rover invites you on a seven-day itinerary of refined adventure, where luxury and exploration go hand in hand. It’s the perfect WA road trip, and there’s no better way to do it than in a Range Rover.

Day 1

the pool at Pullman Bunker Bay
Check into Pullman Bunker Bay.

There’s no more popular West Australian road trip route than that between Perth and the Margaret River Region. It’s an easily digestible, three-hour drive, with worthy pit stops along the way.

Make the first of them one hour and 15 minutes in, at Lake Clifton. Here, find a 2000-year-old living thrombolite reef. Drive for a further 40 minutes and chance meeting some of Bunbury’s dolphin population at Koombana Bay.

Pullman Bunker Bay is the final stop, just over three hours south of Perth. This beachfront, five-star resort is the ultimate base for exploring the Margaret River Wine region.

Day 2

After a leisurely morning breakfast with an ocean view, start your Range Rover and head towards the Dunsborough town centre. Browsing the decidedly coastal-themed goods of the town’s many independent boutiques is a great way to while away the hours, breaking up the sartorial with an artisan gelato snack stop, or some good old-fashioned Australian bakery fare.

Leave room; you’ll need it for the Good Natured Gathering  dinner at Wayfinder. Indulge in a four-course feast by chef Felipe Montiel, which uses produce from the winery’s market garden to enhance a selection of sustainably sourced seafood and meat. But food is just the support act. It’s organic wine that’s the star of the show, generously poured and expertly paired to each dish.

Day 3

Settle in for cabernet at Cape Mentelle Winery.

With a grand total of 20 wines from vintage 2022 to try, it’s a good thing Cape Mentelle’s International Cabernet Tasting kicks off early. Make your way to the estate for a 10:00 AM start, where a global selection of wines will be poured blind, before a long lunch by Tiller Dining is served.

Given that the Margaret River is responsible for more than 20 per cent of Australia’s fine wine production, it’s only right to delve into it while in the area.

Continue exploring the region via taste and terroir aboard Alison Maree, a whale-watching catamaran, as you cruise Geographe Bay . Admire the rolling green hills and crisp white beaches of Quindalup in sunset’s golden light, all the while sipping through the Clairault Streicker catalogue and dining on canapes.

For a more substantial dinner, venture into Busselton for a seven-course British x Australian mash-up , courtesy of Brendan Pratt (Busselton Pavilion) and Oliver Kent (Updown Farmhouse, UK). They’ll be putting their rustic yet refined spin on the likes of local marron, wagyu and abalone – championing the simple beauty of the world-class ingredients.

Day 4

Pair'd Beach Club
Elevate your dining experiences at Pair’d X Range Rover Beach Club.

Wrap your fingers around a wine glass and wiggle your toes into the sand at Pair’d Beach Club x Range Rover on Meelup Beach. Sit down to an intimate wine session with sommelier Cyndal Petty – or a four-course feast by Aaron Carr of Yarri – and revel in the open-air beach club, bar and restaurant’s laidback coastal vibe. It’s a whole new way to experience one of the region’s most renowned beaches.

Follow up a day in the sun with a casual Italian party at Mr Barvel Wines . Purchase wines –including the elusive, sold-out Nebbia – by the glass and enjoy canapes with the towering Karri forest as a backdrop.

If you’d prefer to keep it local, head to Skigh Wines for the New Wave Gathering , where the region’s independent wine makers and their boundary-pushing wines will be on show. Street-style eats, a DJ and complimentary wine masterclasses complete the experience.

Day 5

pair'd Grand Tasting
Taste your way through Howard Park Wines. (Image: C J Maddock)

Spend the morning at your leisure, driving the winding roads through the Boranup Karri forest in your Range Rover. Soak in the views at Contos Beach, and call into the small cheese, chocolate and preserve producers along the way.

Make your next stop Howard Park Wines for The Grand Tasting presented by Singapore Airlines . Numerous wine labels will be pouring their catalogues over four hours, accompanied by food from chefs Matt Moran and Silvia Colloca, with live opera providing the soundtrack.

Cap off a big weekend with one last hurrah at Busselton Pavilion. Six ‘local legends’ – chefs Brendan Pratt (Busselton Pavilion), Mal Chow (Chow’s Table), Aaron Carr (Yarri), Ben Jacob (Lagoon Yallingup), Corey Rozario (Dahl Daddies) and Laura Koentjoro (Banksia Tavern) – will be preparing a dish each. Dance the night away as vinyl spins and the sun sets on another day.

Day 6

Ngilgi Cave western australia
Head underground. (Image: Tourism WA)

After a busy few days of wining and dining, it’s wise to observe a rest day. There’s no easier task than unwinding in the Margaret River Region, also famous for its high concentration of world-class beaches.

Relax on the grassy knoll as you watch the region’s most experienced surfers braving the World Surf League break at Surfer’s Point, or don your own wetsuit and try out one of Gracetown’s more beginner-friendly waves. Swimmers will find their Eden at Meelup Beach, Eagle Bay, or Point Piquet, where the sand is brilliantly white and the water as still as a backyard swimming pool.

Not into sun, sand, and surf? Head underground at Mammoth Cave, just one of the region’s many stalactite-filled caves.

Day 7

Burnt Ends event at Pair'd
Farewell the Margaret River.

Pack up your Range Rover with new favourite wines and newfound memories, ready for the three-hour journey back to Perth.

Prebook your discovery journey through the south-west corner of Western Australia with Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover.

Pair’d Margaret River Region is proudly owned by the Western Australian Government, through Tourism WA.