An Off-Grid Stay at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef

An off-grid stay in the sand dunes of Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef places Katie Carlin in tune with nature to rewire from everyday life.

The soft glow of first light streams through the shaded mesh covering of my nature en suite. A palm-sized shell from the nearby beach adorns the ledge and a cool ocean breeze rushes through the gap in my tent, collecting strands of my hair as I splash water on my face to start the day. I’m suddenly super aware of how precious this finite resource is after three nights sleeping by the ocean on the sand dunes of Western Australia’s Cape Range National Park where they get 200 millimetres of rain a year – if they’re lucky.

Here, cocooned in a rustic eco-wilderness tent at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef , I wake with the sunrise and fall asleep to the sound of the ocean crashing against the reef. No devices. No bright lights. No mobile or internet coverage. It’s the antithesis of my life in Sydney and it is rewiring me from the inside out.

The luxury of experience

This deep respect for the power of nature to completely undo you is what Sal Salis defines as its ‘experiential style of luxury’. Everything about the camp is designed to connect you to the environment and wildlife around you.

From the ocean-facing placement of its tents – built to capture the coastal breeze and create a channel for airflow – to its approach to light and noise pollution, allowing you to witness uninterrupted star-speckled skies, and of course its location alongside UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef with its 500-plus species of fish, coral gardens and megafauna.

It also underpins the ethos of the Eco-Certified bush camp; its guiding principles of minimal impact and sustainability are reflected in the measures Sal Salis has taken to protect its environment: construction of the camp is above ground level to protect the flora and fauna, power is generated by solar, water usage is carefully managed to avoid weed growth, no waste material escapes into the surrounding ecosystem. Every detail has been thought of, even down to the reef-safe sunscreen and toiletries.

an accommodation tent at Sal Salis NingalooReef — Stay under canvas at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef.

Turtle time on Ningaloo

Camp manager Leith Graham has spent the past 12 years managing remote lodges across the Top End. He left Seven Spirit Bay on the Cobourg Peninsula to manage Sal Salis earlier this year. Leith laughs when I comment on the camp’s remoteness. “This place isn’t remote; it has roads," he says.

an aerial view of camp Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — Sal Salis is in Australia’s wild, wild west.

“When we drove into town for the first time, I thought, ‘What have I done?’ because it was 50 degrees," he says, shaking his head at the memory. The summer heat is one of the reasons Sal Salis is only open from mid-March to mid-November. But by the time we pull up at Graveyards Beach, you can tell this place has gotten under Leith’s skin. We’re here to see green sea turtles from a distance; it’s late September and hundreds upon hundreds of them gather to mate just offshore at this time of year.

I follow him up the side of a sand dune and the wind blows more fiercely the higher we climb. At the top, a perfect crescent-shaped stretch of sand greets turquoise waters filled with hundreds of turtles bobbing in the waves below. I soon realise several of them are bobbing in piles of three or four. The females mounted by multiple male turtles at a time. “It’s like you’ve fallen into a David Attenborough series, isn’t it?" asks Leith over the wind.

swimming with a sea turtle at Ningaloo Reef — Snorkel with turtles from Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef. (Image: Justin Bumpstead)

The beating heart of camp life

Days start and end in the communal lodge, the beating heart of camp life. It’s here I find the daily included activities scrawled across the chalkboard; normally a combination of a guided snorkelling tour or a hike to nearby Mandu Mandu Gorge or Yardie Creek Gorge.

the eco-wilderness tents at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — The exclusive Sal Salis is on the shores of Ningaloo Reef.

There’s also a 24-hour self-serve bar stocked with wine, beer, spirits and non-alcoholic beverages of all kinds from across Western Australia, as well as a barista-style espresso coffee machine and snacks lined up in jars for the taking.

I join the other guests each evening for canapés on the deck, where we gather to watch the sun slip into the ocean and the sky erupt into fiery hues of red and orange before the colour drains into darkness.

an aerial shot of Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — An aerial shot of Sal Salis, camouflaged in the striking landscape.

It’s also where new chef Paul Seymour (also joining from Seven Spirit Bay) whips up his five-star dining creations that wouldn’t be out of place in Sydney’s finest restaurants. Dinner steals the show: a three-course set menu paired with the state’s best wines. Think crab tortellini, crispy pork belly, seared scallops and lamb rump.

It’s not long before wild tales from the day’s adventures start to spill around the communal tables. I think back to earlier that day when I joined a Live Ningaloo tour of the reef.

a hammock outside an eco-tent at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — Find enough relaxation time to switch off.

Swimming with majestic megafauna

The pilot circling the reef above radios to say she’s spotted a whale shark nearby. Whale shark season is over, so this feels like an unexpected gift. I stand, gripping onto the rail as we race towards the sighting; one hand not enough to keep me steady. An explosion of water appears ahead of us. A humpback whale breaches and a calf half her size follows her lead; spiralling into the air and flopping back down with gusto.

a huge whale shark under at Ningaloo Reef — Live Ningaloo offers interactions with whale sharks. (Image: Justin Bumpstead)

None of us, including the crew, can contain our excitement as unguarded squeals of delight ripple through the boat. Our skipper, Kurtis McGlennon, reluctantly pulls us away from the humpbacks at play – our turn to swim with the whale shark is fast approaching.

There are 15 operators with a licence to run swimming tours on the reef and Live Ningaloo is one of the lucky few. Now in position, four of us slip into the water after Katie Gates, our in-water guide and a marine biologist, following her lead as she directs us to kick into position.

a group of tourists posing for a photo op during their Live Ningaloo tour — Join Live Ningaloo Tours. (Image: Justin Bumpstead)

I stick my head underwater at Katie’s direction and, moments later, see a grey figure start to take shape in the distance. A seven-metre whale shark is now directly in front of me. I start swimming to keep up, its tail effortlessly propelling it through the crystal-clear waters of the reef. I’m mesmerised by the white spots scattered in intricate patterns across its back; shimmering as they catch streaks of sunlight.

“Stop swimming!" Yells Katie from above. Our time is up. I reluctantly watch it swim out of view.

swimming deep down Ningaloo Reef — Go deep down under at Ningaloo Reef. (Image: Justin Bumpstead)

Carry it forward

I can still feel a fine coating of sand on my skin and see a light dusting of chalk-white dirt on my feet when I am waiting to collect my luggage at Sydney Airport. I’m reluctant to wash it away; it’s a welcome reminder of what we stand to lose if we keep our heads buried in the busyness of life.

As I stand watching the baggage carousel, I’m reminded of Leith Graham’s words, “The more people that know about Ningaloo, the more protected it will be." I know exactly what he means.

the striking landscape aerial views of Cape RangeNational Park — Explore Cape Range National Park.

A Traveller’s Checklist

Getting there

Exmouth’s Learmonth airport is the closest access point to Ningaloo Reef, located a little over an hour’s drive from Sal Salis. There are daily Qantas flights to Exmouth departing from Perth, with airport transfers available to pre-book for a fee through Sal Salis. Recently, Qantas also launched a twice-weekly direct flight from Melbourne to Exmouth during peak season.

Playing there

Live Ningaloo is the only operator that offers single-swim small-group wildlife interactions in Exmouth. The award-winning Eco-Certified tour operator accommodates 10 guests for whale shark tours and seven guests for humpback tours to ensure minimal disturbance to marine life and maximised experiences for guests.

You can also offset your trip’s carbon emissions for a small fee to support the operator’s sustainable practices and reduce your ecological footprint. Advance bookings for all tours are essential. Whale shark season runs from March to July and humpback season from June to mid-October.

Staying there

Eco-Certified Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef offers 15 wilderness tents and one honeymoon tent built amid the sand dunes in Cape Range National Park on the shores of Ningaloo Reef on the Coral Coast of WA. The season runs from mid-March to mid-November and the all-inclusive stay covers all food and drink, activities, snorkel gear and accommodation.

the tent interior with bed at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — There are just 16 off-grid luxury safari-style tents around the camp.

Eating there

Daily meals are served at The Lodge in Sal Salis with an à la carte menu for breakfast and lunch, followed by sunset canapés and a three-course set menu paired with Western Australian wines for dinner. The self-serve bar is open 24 hours a day and all dietary requirements are catered for. Expect five-star seasonal produce sourced locally.

food on the plate at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — Expect fresh, seasonal produce.

From thundering waterfalls to ancient Indigenous art, Kimberley’s raw beauty will take your breath away.

Wild, pristine, and shaped by nature, the Kimberley Coast is one of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes. A remote and rugged frontier that remains a bucket list destination for many travellers. Its most breathtaking attractions – including Montgomery Reef, King George Falls and Horizontal Falls – are accessible only by sea or air, making a guided expedition cruise aboard Silversea’s luxury expedition ship, Silver Cloud, the ideal way to explore it.

From its intricate intertidal zones to ancient rock art, extreme tides and rare wildlife found nowhere else in Australia – or the world – this journey offers an unparalleled exploration of one of Earth’s last true wildernesses.

Why Silversea?

Silversea offers a 10-day expedition departing Broome, or an extended 16-day expedition voyage from Indonesia, including landings on the hidden gems of Palopo Sulawesi and Komodo. Accompanied by expert guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology, guests gain a deeper understanding of the Kimberley’s dramatic landscapes, rich cultural heritage and extraordinary biodiversity.

Silversea offers one of the experiential travel industry’s leading crew-to-guest ratios. Along with all-suite accommodation (80 per cent with private verandah), 24-hour butler service, a swimming pool and four dining options. Silver Cloud also has an experienced crew of multilingual expedition guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology to enhance your Kimberley Experience.

silversea cruise ship pool deck — Take a dip in the pool deck.

1. Koolama Bay

Before visitors see King George Falls, they hear them – a growing rumble in the distance, steady and foreboding as the Zodiac glides through the gorge, the sound echoing off sheer rock formations. At 80 meters tall, the twin cascades carve through the red cliffs, churning the waters below in a spectacular finale – but Koolama Bay holds secrets beyond its striking scenery.

Named after a ship that beached here following an aerial attack by Japanese bombers in World War II, the bay may seem desolate, yet it teems with life. With Silversea’s expert guides on their 10-day Kimberley itinerary, guests gain a sharper eye for its hidden wonders – rock wallabies darting across the cliffs, crocodiles lurking among dense green mangroves, and high above, the silhouette of a bird of prey circling the sky.

King George Falls at koolama bay excursion on Silversea Kimberley Cruise — Take a shore excursion to see King George Falls.

2. Freshwater Cove / Wijingarra Butt Butt

Connect with Country on a wet landing at Freshwater Cove, also known as Wijingarra Butt Butt. Considered one of the most special experiences on both the 16-day and 10-day Kimberley cruises, Silversea guests are welcomed by the traditional Indigenous custodians of the land, painted with traditional ochre, and invited to take part in a smoking ceremony.

Located on the mainland near Montgomery Reef, Wijingarra Butt Butt holds deep cultural significance to the local Indigenous community. Here, rock formations along the shore represent spiritual ancestors, and guests are guided to a nearby rock overhang filled with ancient art, where traditional owners share the stories and meaning behind these sacred paintings.

welcome to country on freshwater cove during silversea kimberley cruise — Take part in a smoking ceremony. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

3. Vansittart Bay (Jar Island)

Modern history, ancient culture and mystery converge in Vansittart Bay, which is also known as Jar Island. Here, the first thing to catch the eye is the dented, silver fuselage of a World War II-era C-53 plane – a striking relic of the past. Yet, the true cultural treasures lie just a short hike away where two distinct styles of Indigenous rock art – Gwion Gwion and Wandjina – can be found.

The Wandjina figures, deeply connected to Indigenous traditions, stand in stark contrast to the enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings, which date back more than 12,000 years. Significantly different in form and style, the two different styles create a striking juxtaposition, offering a rare glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.

aerial view of Vansittart Bay, See it in you Silversea Kimberley Cruise. — Explore ancient Gwion Gwion rock art at Vansittart Bay. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

4. Horizontal Falls

Part illusion, part natural phenomenon, the Kimberley’s much-lauded Horizontal Falls aren’t a waterfall, but a tidal and geographic spectacle that visitors have to see to comprehend. Known as Garaanngaddim, the phenomenon occurs when seawater rushes through two narrow gaps- one just twenty metres wide, and the other seven metres in width, between the escarpments of Talbot Bay.

With each tidal shift, the force of the water creates whirlpools, furious currents and the illusion of a horizontal cascade as thousands of gallons of water are pushed and pulled in through the gap every six hours with relentless movement, making this one of the Kimberley ’s most mesmerising natural wonders.

Horizontal Falls are described as "One of the greatest wonders of the natural world". They are formed from a break in-between the McLarty Ranges reaching up to 25m in width. The natural phenomenon is created as seawater builds up faster on one side of the gaps than the other, creating a waterfall up to 5m high on a King tide. — Watch whirlpools and furious currents collide. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

5. Montgomery Reef

As the tide turns in Montgomery Reef, magic happens. With the Kimberley’s legendary tides varying up to ten metres, at low tide the submerged reef almost appears to rise from the depths: exposing up to four metres of the sandstone reef.

The impact is otherworldly: as the water drains, waterfalls cascade on either side of the channel, turtles left exposed scramble and dive, and fish leap in search of sanctuary in shallow pools. Meanwhile, the dinner bell rings for the migratory seabirds dugongs, reef sharks and dolphins that scavenge and feast in the area.

Using zodiacs, guests cruise through one of the world’s most significant inshore reef systems navigated by experienced guides, exploring the most intricate and fascinating parts of a 300-square-kilometre-wide biodiversity hotspot.

aerial view of boat going along Montgomery Reef — Witness seabirds, dolphins and reef sharks on the hunt.

6. Mitchell Falls by Helicopter

Experiencing the Kimberley by sea allows you to feel the power of the tides, but travelling by helicopter reveals the sandstone tapestry of the Kimberley, a landscape geologists believe is over 1.8 billion years old.

One of Silversea’s most popular optional excursions , guests who opt to fly into the interior from the onboard helipad soar up above the rust-coloured landscape of the Mitchell plateau, taking in one of Australia’s most scenic waterfalls: Mitchell Falls, a series of four emerald-coloured pools gently cascades into each other, before plunging down to the river below.

Seeing the landscape from above reveals a landscape weaved and shaped by the power of the freshwater wet season, juxtaposed to the constant lapping of the relentless and powerful tide on the coast.

aerial view of mitchell falls on silversea helicopter excursion — See emerald pools cascade into the river below. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

7. Indigenous Art Caves, Wandjina Art

The Kimberley Region of Western Australia is home to some of the most striking and significant

Indigenous rock art in Australia. Dotted throughout the landscape are caves, cliffs and rock overhangs depicting the striking, ethereal image of Wandjina, the rainmaker spirit and creation being central to many of the Dreamtime stories in this region.

Some of the paintings are regularly repainted by traditional custodians, while others are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Each artwork serves as both a cultural record and a living connection to the past, offering a rare opportunity to engage with the enduring traditions of the Kimberley’s Indigenous communities.

Freshwater Cover Rock Art the kimberleys — Walk among cultural records preserved in stone. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

See the best of this incredible part of the world on a Silversea Kimberley cruise. Book your 10- or extended 16-day expedition voyage at silversea.com

A stay at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef redefines the off-grid experience