Unforgettable underwater encounters on the Coral Coast

The Coral Coast might be famous for its whale sharks but, as Carolyn Beasley discovers, a host of marine wonders await.

As I slip into the open ocean, my heart pounds. I’m searching the depths for a mighty creature. But I’m searching too deep and now, looking along the glassy surface, I see a fin is advancing towards me. I pop my head back under and startle; a wide, open mouth is just metres from me and I swim-scurry aside. The harmless whale shark is eight metres long, and my brain struggles to compute its sheer size and ethereal presence.

Rejoining the rest of the swimmers in my group, I fin alongside this muscular, mottled being, while a photographer snaps photos for an identification database.

Cape Range National Park, Coral Coast, WA — “As I slip into the open ocean, my heart pounds. I’m searching the depths for a mighty creature."

Climbing back on our boat, we’re all euphoric. Every one of us had come to Exmouth on the Coral Coast (1250 kilometres north of Perth) hoping to see a whale shark, and the experience has exceeded my expectations. But while I’m here, I’m discovering that the whole Coral Coast is an immersive marine bonanza. With its sparse population and pristine waters, the Coral Coast is a place to get wind-messed hair and salty skin, and taste lobster fresh from the sea. It’s a place to play didgeridoos with saltwater people. It’s a place to dive right in.

The coral reefs of the Houtman Abrolhos Islands

I’d started my journey further south, joining a five-day eco-cruise to the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, 60 kilometres west of Geraldton. It’s a stark and windy place, with 122 islands. It’s also the southern limit for coral reefs in the Indian Ocean, and one of Australia’s most important seabird nesting areas. We meet fishermen who live in colourful shacks while they’re catching Western rock lobsters (Australia’s first certified sustainable fishery). Our skipper has a special lobster licence too, and we chow down on the prized crustaceans.

Houtman Abrolhos Islands, Coral Coast, Western Australia — There is an abundance of sea life in the waters off the Houtman Abrolhos Islands. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The labyrinth of reefs here has deceived ships for centuries, most infamously the Dutch ship, Batavia in 1629. After the shipwreck, some 200 survivors tried to avoid deranged and murderous mutineers, and stepping ashore on the barren islands where it all happened is chilling.

Seals in Houtman Abrolhos Islands, Coral Coast, WA — Spot seals swimming off the Houtman Abrolhos Islands.

Today’s stories are happier though, as I fell in love on a deserted beach. My crush is basically an underwater puppy with flippers, zooming around me in an underwater romp. When I stop somersaulting, the young Australian sea lion is broken-hearted, sulking with puppy-dog eyes, and following me up the beach when it’s time to leave.

Coral Bay, Western Australia — Coral Bay is named after its beautiful coral gardens. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The marine life of Shark Bay

Making my way up the coast, I come to Shark Bay, the UNESCO World Heritage site that is famous for its stromatolites, 3.7 billion-year-old colonies of microbes, and extensive seagrass meadows that feed the world’s most significant population of dugongs, its other standout natural wonder.

Nearby at Monkey Mia, a strip of white beach wedges between red sand dunes and turquoise ocean. It is, of course, a favourite spot for Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins, their predecessors receiving fishy treats here since the 1960s. Today, the feeding is carefully regulated to ensure their wellbeing and protection.

Whale shark at Ningaloo Marine Park, Coral Coast, WA — Swim with a whale shark at Ningaloo Marine Park. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

At 7:45am the next day I stand ankle-deep in water as the dolphins swim in, inspecting today’s long line of humans. Piccolo and Kiya, both with babies in tow, are circling the rangers, accepting a fish from lucky spectators before moving off.

About half an hour later, the dolphins return and the rangers offer snacks again. This time, without the crowds, I have an almost personal experience with the gorgeous dolphin families.

Red Bluff, Quobba Station, Coral Coast, WA — Red Bluff, Quobba Station, north of Carnarvon. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

First Nations tours of Shark Bay

First Nations people from the Malgana and Nhanda tribes have thrived in Shark Bay for millennia. Local Malgana and Nhanda man Darren ‘Capes’ Capewell of Wula Gura Nyinda Eco Adventures runs tours including stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking, but I’m joining his night tour, Didgeridoo Dreaming.

Capes wants to connect people to this Saltwater Country. Squatting in the sand, he instructs: “Let the white sand run through your hands and rub it a bit. It’s important not just to see Guthurraguda [Shark Bay] with your eyes, but also to feel it."

At a bonfire behind the dunes, the starry sky is intense as Capes pulls out his didgeridoo collection. Traditionally a male-only instrument, the men and boys in the group try the difficult lip-vibrating technique. Amid laughter and encouragement, the ladies get a lesson in playing the giant conch shell. Next, Capes cooks whole fish over campfire coals and we enthusiastically dig in.

Coral Coast, WA — One of the Houtman Abrolhos Islands with lobster fishing camps.

A day trip to Dirk Hartog Island

In the morning, I set off from Shark Bay’s town of Denham, joining a day trip to raw and rugged Dirk Hartog Island, Australia’s most westerly point and the state’s biggest island. In the year 1616, Dutch Captain and spice trader Dirk Hartog landed here and nailed a pewter plate to a post, providing the first evidence of Europeans landing on this continent.

The island is now mostly a national park, but was previously a pastoral station. At the historic shearing quarters, circa 1880, we meet third-generation owners Kieran and Tory Wardle who run a stylish eco-lodge, and serve us homemade scones.

Steep Point, Shark Bay, WA — An aerial view of Steep Point, Shark Bay World Heritage Area. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

From here, we jump into four-wheel-drive vehicles and visit the blowholes, where ocean swells surge up through holes in a rock platform, sending spray skywards. We careen across sand dunes to Surf Point, gazing out to the mainland’s Steep Point in the distance. Here we see six loggerhead sea turtles bobbing masterfully through huge waves and, on the sheltered side, the shallows are teeming with baby sharks.

On the boat ride back, I try to round out my personal ‘Shark Bay Big Five’: turtles, sharks, dugongs, dolphins, and manta rays. I’ve ticked the first four, but the mantas prove illusive.

Emus in Coral Bay, WA — See native fauna such as emus.

Surfing Red Bluff

Back on the road north, I’m heading for Quobba Station, a working sheep station with 80 kilometres of rugged, coastal scenery, offering an authentic, Ecotourism Australia-certified stay. Quobba’s original claim to fame was land-based game fishing. The coast here flanks very deep water, and from the cliffs, fishers cast out using balloon floats to carry their bait out to the big pelagic fish. But for surfers, the drawcard here is Red Bluff, 55 kilometres north of the homestead. It’s an epic big wave, not for the faint-hearted spot.

Red Bluff Campsite, Quobba Station, Coral Coast, WA — The Red Bluff campsite at Quobba Station is on the southern boundary to Ningaloo Reef Marine Park.

Monster swell lines approach the imposing rusty headland, and from where I stand on the limestone point they’re terrifying. Surfers enter and exit via sharp rocks; it can be perilous, but the experienced surfers here are hooting and yelling at the thrills. Most visitors to the area choose to camp out, but there’s a cafe and even a day spa offering surf-recovery massages. Non-campers can book a retreat or bungalow; hard-floor safari tents with composting en suites and the ability to check the surf from your bed.

Red Bluff, Kalbarri National Park, Coral Coast, Western Australia — See the cliffs at Red Bluff, Kalbarri National Park. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Snorkelling at Coral Bay

The road to Exmouth, the final stop of my Coral Coast exploration, takes me past the tiny hamlet of Coral Bay. It’s snorkelling that beckons tourists here for reliable sightings of its 300 resident manta rays, but sadly for me, I’m out of time and as I drive past the turn-off I’m filled with regret about missing out on these gentle giants once again.

Coral Bay snorkelling — Searching for manta rays in Coral Bay. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The bountiful experiences of Ningaloo

As I sit on the deck of the boat after my whale shark interaction, I replay the day in my head. My sole aim this morning had been to see a whale shark, but after achieving that goal I’d also managed to meet skittish black-tip reef sharks, eyeball a green turtle, and even spy a snoozing leopard shark. Migrating humpback whales had splashed on the horizon, and I’d heard their soulful singing underwater.

I’m still exhilarated from our final swim when I hear the skipper from the flybridge. “Manta rays beside the boat!" he yells. I never expected this and, in a flurry of masks and fins, I’m back in the ocean in seconds.

Down below me, a majestic black-and-white figure glides like an underwater eagle, banking and wheeling, its cavernous mouth filtering megalitres of plankton-rich seawater. A second manta follows, and with delight I realise this one is entirely black, a rare form.

I can’t believe my luck, and this manta encounter is the icing on the cake. Unexpected and an utter delight, it’s much like the sublime Coral Coast itself.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Self-drive from Perth to Geraldton in about five hours to start your tour, or fly to Geraldton, Monkey Mia or Exmouth.

Staying there:

Houtman Abrolhos Islands

Join the five-day Abrolhos Islands tour onboard the 32-passenger Eco Abrolhos .

Monkey Mia

The recently redeveloped beachfront RAC Monkey Dolphin Resort is located in the heart of Shark Bay and has excellent family facilities.

Manta rays in Coral Coast, WA — Watch the manta rays swim in Coral Coast’s clear waters. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Exmouth

Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort has resort facilities including a restaurant, bar and two pools, right on the beach.

Ningaloo Reef

Sal Salis offers ultra-luxe safari-style tents set within Cape Range National Park with kilometres of the Indian Ocean at your doorstep.

Camp Safari in Sal Salis, Coral Coast, WA — Have a relaxing stay at the camp safari in Sal Salis. (Image: Sal Salis)

Eating there:

Try Boughshed Restaurant in Monkey Mia, while Whalebone Brewery and Mantarays Bar and Brasserie are good choices in Exmouth.

This remote corner of Australia is one of the world’s last frontiers. This is how to see it properly.

Vast, rugged and deeply spiritual, the Kimberley coast in Australia’s North West feels a world away from everyday Australia – and there are countless ways to explore it. But if you want to reach ancient rock art, hidden gorges and lonely waterfalls, it has to be by boat. Whether you’re aboard a nimble expedition vessel or a luxury yacht with all the trimmings, exploring by the water brings exclusive experiences, shows unique views and makes travel easier than any other mode. And that’s just the beginning of Australia’s North West cruises.

The True North Adventure Cruise in between sandstone cliffs. — Adventure starts where the road ends.

1. Discover Broome, and beyond

Explore your launchpad before you set sail: Broome. Here camels and their riders stride along the 22 kilometres of powdery Cable Beach at sunset. That’s just the start.

At Gantheaume Point, red pindan cliffs plunge into the turquoise sea, whose low tide uncovers fossilised dinosaur footprints. Broome’s pearling history runs deep. Japanese, Chinese, Malay and Aboriginal divers once worked these waters, and their legacy lives on in boutiques where South Sea pearls still shine.

If the moon’s right, you may catch the Staircase to the Moon over Roebuck Bay. Or simply kick back with a cold beverage and a film under the stars at Sun Pictures , screening since 1916.

Ride a camel along Cable Beach as the sun sinks into the Indian Ocean, casting golden light across the sand and sea. — Ride a camel along Cable Beach. (Image: Nick Dunn)

2. Unmatched access to The Kimberley

Once you’re onboard, expect a backstage pass to some of the most isolated places on Earth. No roads. No ports. No phone reception.

At Horizontal Falls/ Garaanngaddim, 10-metre tides surge through twin gorges like a natural waterpark ride that’ll make your palms sweat. Then there’s Montgomery Reef/ Yowjab: a giant living platform of coral and seagrass, where the sea pulls back to reveal waterfalls, sea turtles and ospreys.

Up north, King George Falls/ Oomari rage 80 metres down red cliffs. Zodiac boats often nudge in closer so you can feel the spray on your sun-warmed cheeks. You might even fly in to reach Mitchell Falls/ Punamii-unpuu, a four-tiered cascade where you can swim in freshwater pools above the drop.

Come spring, some itineraries veer west to Rowley Shoals: an atoll chain of white sand and reef walls. Then it’s up the winding Prince Regent River to King Cascade/ Maamboolbadda, tumbling over rock terraces, and into a Zodiac to view the Gwion Gwion rock art, whose slender, ochre-painted figures are older than the pyramids.

A cruise drifts beneath King George Falls, where sheer sandstone cliffs frame the thunderous plunge into turquoise waters. — Get closer to the Kimberley than ever before.

3. Taste the Kimberley with onboard hospitality

You might spend your days clambering over slippery rocks or charging past waterfalls. But when you’re back on the water, it’s a different story. Meals are chef-prepared and regionally inspired: grilled barramundi, pearl meat sashimi, mango tarts, and bush tomato chutney. One night it’s barefoot beach barbecues with your shipmates; the next, alfresco dining on the ship.

Small expedition ships each have their own personality, but many carry just 12 to 36 guests, making being out on the water a whole other experience. You might sink into a spa on the foredeck or sip coffee in a lounge while watching crocodiles cruise by. It’s choose-your-own-relaxation, Kimberley style.

4. Expert-led excursions through the Kimberley

These voyages are led by people who know the Kimberley like the back of their sunburnt hand. Attenborough-esque naturalists might gently tap your shoulder to point out rare birds or tell the story beneath a slab of rock. Historians can explain exactly how that rusted World War II relic came to rest here.

If your ship has a helipad, you might chopper straight to a waterfall-fed swimming hole. If not, you’ll still be hopping ashore for that wet landing at a secret creek.

Then come the evenings: songlines shared by Traditional Owners under the stars, or astronomy sessions that link what’s overhead with what’s underfoot and what’s within.

A small group glides through Kimberley’s rugged coastline by boat, passing ancient cliffs. — Explore with naturalists and historians by your side.

5. Relax in luxurious lodgings

Just because you’re off-grid doesn’t mean you have to rough it. These Kimberley vessels are small in size, but mighty in luxury. True North’s ships come with their own helicopters and a no-sea-days policy, so you’re always in the thick of it. Try the luxurious offerings from Ocean Dream Charters for exploration in style. Kimberley Quest offers a fast boat for easy, off-ship adventures. On the larger end of the scale, Coral Expeditions has open-deck bars and curated wine cellars. And then there’s Ponant’s luxury yachts – sleek and incredibly stylish French sailing yachts.

A helicopter soars above the sea, with a sleek cruise ship gliding in the distance. — See the Kimberley from sky to shore.

6. The adventure continues with pre- and post-cruise experiences

You’ve already come this far – so, why not go further? Broome makes it easy to ease in before you board, or wind down when your voyage ends, and there is no reason to stop there.

Head an hour and a half south to Eco Beach to stay off-grid and off the clock. Join a Yawuru guide for a mangrove walk or ocean forage. Dive even deeper into Broome’s pearling past at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay, where divers and craftspeople still pull the seawater-slicked gems from the deep.

If you’re still craving adventure, it’s time to go further. Soar over the Buccaneer Archipelago, or detour inland with a 4WD trip along the Gibb River Road. Book a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles. Or – because you never know when you’ll be back – do all three.

aerial of people walking on eco beach in the kimberley western australia — Stay off grid at Eco Beach. (Image: Tourism WA)

Find out more about your trip to Australia’s North West at australiasnorthwest.com .