Exploring the Kimberley coast onboard Seabourn Pursuit from Darwin to Broome lets you witness the region’s most hard-to-reach marvels, then return to your floating luxury retreat.

What to expect at a glance

• Itinerary: Seabourn Pursuit Kimberley Expedition: Waterfalls & Wanjinas is a 10-day luxury cruise travelling between Broome and Darwin, exploring Western Australia’s remote coast with Zodiac landings or on-water trips to King George River, Ashmore Reef, Talbot Bay, Vansittart Bay, Freshwater Cove and Montgomery Reef.
• Daily expeditions: The all-inclusive luxury expedition cruise features Zodiac rides, hiking, snorkelling, wildlife sightings and cultural tours. All shore excursions are included, except for an optional helicopter flight over Mitchell Falls that ends with a swim.
• Onboard entertainment: Low-key, intimate evening performances and activities – think relaxed piano sessions, a trio singing everything from opera to pop under the stars rather than big Broadway-style productions.
• Insider tip: Start your evening at The Club on Deck 9 with sashimi and cocktails. It’s the perfect spot for a sundowner before dinner.

Western Australia’s highest twin waterfalls need no introduction. The thunderous sound of Oomari/King George Falls’ twin torrents as they rush over the cliff edge to meet the river 80 metres below is something you feel, not just hear.

I’m floating in a Zodiac with nine others as David Sinclair, naturalist and Seabourn expedition team member, tells us this is just a fraction of the water that flows from these falls during the Kimberley wet season.

He points out the black streaks that stain large portions of the rust-coloured rockface; markings caused by trace minerals from the freshwater that flows in unfathomable volumes between November and April, baking into the ancient sandstone when the dry season arrives. It reveals a much wider path of water than the one we see now, as impressive as it already is, that empties into Koolama Bay, where Seabourn Pursuit is anchored, awaiting our return.

Boarding in Darwin two days ago, this expedition cruise hugs the Kimberley coast, exploring its bays, canyons, reefs and islands, revealing a landscape unmarked by skyscrapers or densely populated with rows of multi-million-dollar coastal homes.

Instead, its remoteness reveals a kind of wild beauty I am unaccustomed to seeing up close. Shaped by wind and tides, cared for by countless generations of First Nations peoples, the walls of hidden caves still tell their stories.

One day before we’re due to disembark in Broome, we arrive at a beach that I guarantee has never featured on any ‘best list’, but has silica sand so white and soft it rivals Queensland’s Whitehaven Beach; its one downfall (aside from being incredibly hard to get to)? Huge saltwater crocs also call this patch of paradise home, taking swimming off the cards completely.

If an expedition cruise along the Kimberley Coast has been on your wishlist for a while, let me convince you that it’s time to see it for yourself.

Who will this cruise suit best?

Expedition cruisers are a particular type of traveller, I’m told. One guest tells me she only travels on expeditions because the people you meet onboard are curious and adventurous; they’re here for the destination, not a lineup of Broadway shows or many specialty restaurants. The entertainment onboard is indeed pared back, but while there are fewer places to eat than on larger ocean cruises (Pursuit accommodates only 264 guests), the food and drink offering is exceptional (more on that below).

On my sailing, there are only three families with school-aged kids and no babies. Most travellers are retirees, couples or solo travellers in their late fifties, sixties and seventies; many celebrating milestone birthdays with family and friends.

If you want to join the shore excursions, you do need to be able to get in and out of a Zodiac, and be able to withstand the bumpier days on the water (a warning for anyone with a bad back), but the expedition team are skilled at catering to different abilities.

What are the suites like onboard?

I stayed with my husband in Suite 602 in a Veranda Suite. My favourite part of travelling by cruise is always the suite’s balcony, and this one came with a table, chairs and footstools, plus those incredible Kimberley views.

As the entry-level suite, it is surprisingly spacious; at 33 square metres, it features a walk-in robe, marble bathroom with separate bathtub and shower and double vanities, king bed, television, lounge (convertible to a sofa bed), dining table and desk with chair. The mini-bar is stocked with drinks of your choosing.

Our suite is conveniently located next to the Bow Lounge (with light food and beverages) and The Square (home to guest services, a lounge and cafe) at the other end of our deck, where we go for our morning coffee hit. The only drawback is that you do feel more movement being closer to the bow. Opt for a midship suite if this will impact your voyage.

Note: Aussie travellers will need a US or EU adaptor onboard to fit a mix of standard 110V US-style outlets and 220V European-style two-round-pin sockets, alongside USB ports.

Dining and bars

There are two main dining rooms onboard: The Restaurant (best for fine dining) and The Colonnade (best for more casual dining).

The Restaurant has a fine-dining menu that changes daily. Think white tablecloths, waiters dressed in suits, a premium wine list (note: there is a dress code for dining here). It serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

For breakfast and lunch, The Colonnade offers buffet and cooked-to-order table service, and a gelato cart (don’t miss this); for dinner, the three-course menu features a different cuisine or theme every night, from American to Surf and Turf, Chinese and Spanish. You can also dine outside on The Patio. This is where we dined most; the food and service were exceptional, and you can see the stars while you eat.

But for us, every night started with a plate of sashimi, a gin speciality cocktail (a daily concoction crafted by Hugo Cerron) and a game of cards on Deck 9 at Sushi @ The Club. It’s also a great spot for live music and seeing the sun slip into the ocean each evening.

The Square serves barista-made coffee (not as good as the specialty coffee we’ve spoiled ourselves with at home, but it’s still a solid cup), pastries, sandwiches and gelato and is best for relaxed snacking or lighter meals. Constellation Lounge serves morning pastries, afternoon high tea, and cocktails and tapas from 6pm.

There’s also the Pantry in the Bow Lounge and 24-hour in-suite dining (we took advantage of this option more than once). Sky Bar (located just outside The Club by the heated spas) wasn’t serving during our voyage, but I believe it is open for cocktails and drinks normally.

Pools, spa and wellness

The best spot to be when you sail from Darwin is the terrace on Deck 9 in one of two mildly heated spas (pack your swimmers in your carry-on). We had this spot to ourselves most afternoons after a day of exploring, but be warned, this is the only place onboard guests are allowed to smoke; thankfully, we weren’t joined by any. Deck 5 also features one outdoor swimming pool (the only one onboard), flanked by two large whirlpool spas in front of The Patio.

The Spa at Seabourn is next to The Square and offers massages, facials, treatments, and a full-service salon. The fitness centre features standard gym equipment and weights, plus there is a Pilates and yoga studio (no classes). There are two saunas in the changerooms next to the gym (watch the ocean go by from the window while you sweat).

Entertainment and onboard activities

The entertainment onboard is more expedition-focused, with a mix of lectures, briefings, and conversations. But there’s also trivia, games, dancing at The Club, and movie screenings. There were also impromptu live music performances announced throughout the voyage. But most days start early, and by evening we often retreated to our suite after dinner for an early night.

Shore excursions

The Kimberley is the star of this cruise, and the expedition team directs the show. Eight of the 10 days of this itinerary offer shore or Zodiac excursions, sometimes two experiences in a day. It is a highly coordinated effort that is reshaped daily by wind conditions and tides. The skill, knowledge and determination of the team to deliver the best experience for every guest was truly commendable. Highlights of the Waterfalls & Wanjinas itinerary include:

• King George River and its twin falls  (a Zodiac serving Champagne was waiting for us beside the waterfall).
• Vansittart Bay for a landing on Jar Island and a short walk to one of the area’s significant Gwion Gwion rock-art sites.
• Snorkelling at Ashmore Reef (the only time you can get in the water without worrying about crocodiles).
• The Hunter River: including a morning croc-spotting Zodiac tour through the winding waterways of Porosus Creek, followed by an evening scenic cruise around Naturalist Island.
• Swift Bay for a land day hiking to Wandjina rock art site, a place of deep cultural and spiritual significance to the Wanambal Gaambera people, the Traditional Owners of this Country.
• The Talbot Bay excursion takes you to the iconic Horizontal Falls. Note: you don’t go through the gap in the headlands; you circle the tides at its mouth. Also, not everyone can be on the water at the same time, so it’s the luck of the draw if your group gets to go out when the tide is at its highest and most powerful.
• Freshwater Cove and Montgomery Reef; here you start the day ashore hiking to an ancient rock art site that houses stories of the Dambimangari people, followed by an afternoon Zodiac trip to one of the world’s largest inshore reefs, that disappears at high tide yet reveals lagoons, sandstone islets and a mangrove island at low tide.

What’s included (and what costs extra)?

Seabourn Pursuit Kimberley Expedition: Waterfalls & Wanjinas includes the following:

• All meals at all dining venues.
• Open bars throughout the ship with complimentary beverages (soft drinks, alcohol, minibar drinks).
• Complimentary premium wines served at lunch and dinner.
• Complimentary wi-fi access throughout the ship.
• Included tips and gratuities.
• Optional extras: the Mitchell Falls helicopter flight is the only shore excursion not included in your booking. The photography program, spa and salon treatments all cost extra. Exclusive wine and whisky tastings and specialty dinners with wine pairings were offered for an extra fee onboard our voyage.
• Note: The Kimberley cruise season runs in the dry season, typically March to November.