A first-timer’s guide to the Golden Outback, WA

Carla Grossetti Carla Grossetti
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See firsthand how the diversity of the Golden Outback is unmatched.

The Golden Outback makes up a whopping 54 per cent of the state, stretching from the rugged red earth of Burringurrah/Mt Augustus to the powder-white sands of Esperance and the South Coast, and to the modern mining hub of Kalgoorlie in the historic Goldfields. With a landscape comprising rugged river valleys and ancient gorges that swallow the light, the Golden Outback offers rich pickings. And keep the region’s Traditional Owners in mind as you walk in their ancestor’s footsteps on an Indigenous-led tour of rock art believed to be up to 40,000 years old. It’s a landscape that is as dazzling as it is diverse. Here, discover the best of the Golden Outback.

The Golden Outback, Western Australia
The Golden Outback offers rich pickings. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Unique stays

Nallan Station

There is a range of accommodation choices at Nallan Station, from caravan sites to self-contained cottages, renovated shearers’ quarters and eco-friendly tents. Located 12 kilometres north-east of Cue along the Miners’ Pathway, the working farm is an ideal base for history buffs interested in the area’s gold-mining history. nallanstation.com

Merredin Treasury

Stay in the heart of the Wheatbelt in a faithfully restored Art Deco building that was Merredin’s bank in a former life. Built in 1928 and located on one of the town’s main streets, the Merredin Treasury has seven suites, as well as self-contained facilities designed for short-term and long- term stays. merredintreasury.com.au

The Jetty Resort

As the name suggests, this resort is located just a stone’s throw from the heritage-listed Tanker Jetty, which stretches out from the coast of Esperance. The resort has a range of different rooms to suit everyone from business travellers to families and is a one-minute walk to the beautifully frayed shoreline of Esperance.

The Golden Outback, Western Australia
The Golden Outback makes up a whopping 54 per cent of the state. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Five top spots

Burringurrah/Mt Augustus

Burringurrah/Mt Augustus is more than twice the size of Uluru. Laid out like a slumbering giant over the red earth, this soaring inselberg is about 715 metres high and visible in the shimmering distance for more than 160 kilometres.

Mt Augustus, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Mt Augustus looms large over a landscape stubbled with spinifex. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

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The Fitzgerald Biosphere

The Fitzgerald Biosphere is an internationally recognised reserve with more than 2500 varieties of stunning wildflower species. Hunker down in Hopetoun near Fitzgerald River National Park, located at its centre.

Cape Le Grand National Park

This glorious national park is a real headliner, with coastal scenery, imposing granite outcrops, inviting freshwater pools and a kaleidoscope of wildflower colour each year, all within just 45 minutes’ drive from Esperance. And then there’s the kangaroos, which roam freely along the oh-so-white sands of Lucky Bay looking all cute.

Kangaroo at Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand National Park, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Kangaroo at Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand National Park. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Lake Ballard

British sculptor Antony Gormley scanned the bodies of residents from Menzies to inform the shape of his 51 steel sculptures, which stand like sentinels guarding the salt plains of Lake Ballard. Follow the Golden Quest Discovery Trail to get to the Inside Australia exhibit.

Mundatharrda/Kennedy Range

The Indigenous Inggarda name for the Kennedy Range is Mundatharrda and it’s one of the most ancient landforms in Australia. Set up camp at the base of the stark sandstone cliffs so you can rise in the cool of the morning for a wilderness walk and see wildflowers in full bloom.

Where to eat

Taylor St Quarters

There’s nothing like a sundowner on the west coast of Australia and Esperance is all about just that. Sunset here catches the crowds as much for the views as the food. Try the tempura Shark Bay prawns, or fish tacos at Taylor St Quarters, which was the original Esperance Hospital and Nurses Quarters in another life.

Taylor St Quarters, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Taylor St Quarters has been given a new lease on life. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Walkers Hill Vineyard

The grass seems greener and the skies bluer at this award-winning winery located in the eastern Wheatbelt on the way to Wave Rock (Katter Kich), where you will want to take a selfie in the rolling sandstone barrel. Enjoy a few glasses of wine paired with a cheese platter or go for something more substantial such as smokey BBQ beef ribs or a chicken parmy.

Walkers Hill Vineyard, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Walkers Hill Vineyard is embroidered onto the Earth in the Wheatbelt.

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Lot 39 Store + Cafe

This cute little space is your go-to for a bit of retail therapy in Goomalling. After vibing on quality homewares, you can pick up home-cooked meals and ar tisan condiments to take with you. Order coffee and a bowl of seasonal granola or a leek and chicken pie to go.

Grand Hotel, Kookynie

What could be more Golden Outback than a bevvie with Willie the Horse at the Grand Hotel in the town of Kookynie – population 13? This colourful, quirky establishment is the quintessential Goldfields’ pub, located on the Golden Quest Discovery Trail, and is a top spot for a cold beer and a hot meal.

The Grand Hotel, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Willie the Horse makes cameos at the Grand Hotel. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Top things to do

The Collie to Darkan Rail Trail

The Collie to Darkan Rail Trail has been redeveloped into a multi-purpose walking, biking and horse-riding trail. Regardless of your mode of transport, the 15-kilometre stretch east from Darkan to Dardadine will steer you in a straight line past rolling green farmland and carpets of wildflowers in spring.

Explore goldrush towns

The town of Norseman was founded in 1894 when prospector Laurie Sinclair and his trusty steed Hardy Norseman literally stumbled across a nugget of gold. This led to Sinclair trying his luck at scouring the earth for more gold, which led to another gold rush town. Follow the Dundas Coach Road Heritage Trail between Norseman and Dundas where you will discover more treasures in the Great Western Woodlands.

The Golden Outback’s festivals

Time your visit to coincide with a major event such as the Gascoyne River Music Festival or the Mt Magnet Astro Rocks Fest so you can really fall into rhythm with the state’s vast red heart.

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Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti has written across print and digital for Australian Traveller and International Traveller for more than a decade and has spent more than two decades finding excuses to eat well and travel far. A prestigious News Corp cadetship launched her career at The Cairns Post, before a stint at The Canberra Times and The Sydney Morning Herald gave way to extended wanders through Canada, the US, Mexico, Central America, Asia and Europe. Carla was chief sub editor at delicious and has contributed to Good Food, Travel & Luxury, Explore Travel, Escape. While living in London, Carla was on staff at Condé Nast Traveller and The Sunday Times Travel desk and was part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK.
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Exploring an icon: inside the massive upgrade to Broome’s famous Cable Beach

(Credit: Tourism WA)

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
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    With unhurried mornings, long, sun-filled afternoons, evenings shaped around sunset, this iconic beach offers an all-day experience (and it’s about to get even better).

    As the sun slowly rises over the languid waves and fine sand of Broome’s Cable Beach, the morning colours shift from rich apricot to pale gold and frosty pearl. Remnants of life reveal themselves in the subtle shadows – crab claw marks, towel impressions, footprints. Life here is unhurried, but don’t be fooled. This town is continually shifting like the desert dunes that surround it.

    And with a $75 million upgrade – offering easier and more inclusive access for people of all abilities – it’s getting even better.

    Cable Beach upgrade foreshore redevelopment stage 1
    Discover the Cable Beach redevelopment.

    The addition of comfortable and welcoming spaces has begun (and will continue). This means visitors will be able to spend longer enjoying this beautiful environment, while knowing that the upgrade will create a more environmentally protected setting that preserves the natural character visitors come for. Come sunset, soak it in all the better thanks to the already improved foreshore areas, made for lingering while the light changes. And for the kids, a new splash park and accessible dry playground will make it easy to while away the hours.

    Think you know what a day at this beach is like? Think again.

    Morning colours

    car on cable beach at sunrise
    Cable Beach comes alive after sunrise. (Credit: Tourism WA)

    As the sun colours the sky, Cable Beach shows signs of life (and not just the aquatic kind). Locals and visitors alike float in the cool water as it laps the shore, landlubbers explore the coast on foot, runners pace and beachside yoga classes bring quiet movement to the day.

    When the sky is blue and the sun is firmly in position, head down to the well-known Cable Beach House for a long, slow breakfast overlooking the ocean. Think fresh tropical fruit, eggs cooked your way and strong coffee in the warm morning breeze.

    Afternoon adventures

    camel train on cable beach in broome at sunset
    Join a camel train at sunset. (Credit: C J Maddock)

    When you’re ready to explore, carve a path along the Minyirr Park Trail – a gentle 1.5-2km track through coastal bushland with spectacular views of the dunes. Refuel at the nearby Spinifex Brewery for lunch with its low-key, outdoor beer garden. There’s even an outdoor playground if you’re travelling with young humans.

    Walk off your lazy lunch by watching (or joining) one of the beach soccer or volleyball games, or even try Silent Beats Broome – a silent walking disco through the dunes. Or book a spot on the famous camel trains, watching the sun drop below the horizon along the way. They’re a constant reminder of the fascinating history, landscape and cultural mix in this part of the country.

    Evening degustation

    server at Cable Beach Club
    Stop into the Cable Beach Club. (Credit: Tourism WA)

    As the day closes, watch the world-famous Cable Beach sunset from the appropriately named Sunset Grill at Cable Beach Club. This open-air terraced dining spot overlooking the beach is the kind of place where the view takes centre stage.

    While you sip on a lychee, lime & lemonade mocktail or a local beer, enjoy the bustle of life and nature outside as the day comes to an end.

    For dinner, nab a table at the Bali Hai Cafe, where they offer pan-fried crispy barramundi, Abrolhos Island scallops and deep-sea snow crab. When you’re ready for bed, check in to Pinctada Hotel Broome – a lush, tropical resort with palm-dotted gardens and a large, lagoon-style pool to cool off in.

    Beyond the beach

    Beyond the wide, open beach and never-ending sky of Cable Beach, there are many more reasons to visit North West Australia. These are just a few.

    Unmatched experiences

    Shinju Matsuri Festival's popular Long Table Dinner on cable beach
    Join Shinju Matsuri Festival’s popular Long Table Dinner. (Credit: Tourism WA)

    Engage with the history of the land and its people on an Indigenous cultural tour exploring everything from the local wildlife to the tastes of bush tucker. To understand the importance of pearling to this town, take a tour of Chinatown, or head outside of town to the live pearl harvests at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, one of Australia’s oldest pearl farms.

    Learn why Japanese pearlers were central to Broome’s pearling success and visit the largest Japanese cemetery in Australia, where 900 Japanese pearlers were buried – a testament to the risks and rewards of this dangerous profession.

    And book ahead every spring for when communal tables, freshly cooked local fare and festoon lighting fill the beach for the extremely popular Long Table Dinner on Cable Beach. It’s a highlight of the Shinju Matsuri Festival, along with the Floating Lanterns Matsuri, where you can personalise a lantern and gently release it into the sea to honour those you love.

    Dining discoveries

    Matso’s Broome Brewery
    Settle in for Matso’s famous ginger or mango beer. (Credit: Tourism WA)

    Further your culinary adventure at the laid-back Sunday Sesh at Matso’s Broome Brewery. Chow down on smoked crocodile or Aussie barramundi while kicking back to a local DJ as the heat of the day fades.

    For more tunes, the beautiful outdoor Bay Club at the Mangrove Hotel is a great choice for dinner with live music, DJs or an event that stretches on into the early hours. Still hungry? Pop by Johnny Sausage for Italian-influenced meals paired with impeccable wines.

    Natural beauties

    Gantheaume Point cabnle beach broome
    Experience the striking colours of Gantheaume Point. (Credit: Tourism WA)

    Avoid the crowds and head to Town Beach for a quieter vantage point to see the phenomenal Staircase to the Moon – a natural illusion where the rising full moon is reflected on the tidal flats, creating a shimmering ‘staircase’ stretching up to the sky.

    Just south of Cable Beach are the deep red cliffs and dramatic ocean views of Gantheaume Point, where 130-million-year-old dinosaur footprints can be seen, revealed at low tide. Or head to Roebuck Bay to visit the internationally significant wetlands, where vast tidal flats are home to shorebirds and coastal fauna.

    Between October and March, watch turtles nesting and hatchlings emerge from the sand. You’ll be holding your breath as they make their way down to the shoreline, ready to start their life in one of Australia’s most beautiful landscapes.

    For more on Cable Beach and Australia’s North West, visit australiasnorthwest.com.