A step by step guide to WA’s Golden Outback road trip

By Jenny Ringland
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From desert plains to breathtaking coastline, a road trip into Western Australia’s Golden Outback really does have it all.

The road trip, leg by leg…

Part 1: Perth to Wave Rock

Part 2: Wave Rock to Hopetoun

Part 3: Hopetoun to Esperance

Part 4: Esperance to Kalgoorlie

 

As the kilometres rhythmically tick away and mobile service dips in and out, I stare out of the window and breathe deeply; the wrangling it took to be sitting in a car next to one of my oldest friends, heading deep into Western Australia’s Golden Outback was a journey in itself.

 

The loop we decided on holds promise of wild desert plains, pristine beaches with the whitest of sand, and stories of exploration and community. Admittedly my association with road trips has long been car sickness and singalongs, arguments over bubblegum and inevitable “Are we there yet?" cries.

 

But perhaps I’ve got it wrong, because the speed at which I am being enveloped with calm as the landscape shifts from the green busyness of hobby farms to undulating stretches of brownish pasture is a surprise to me.

 

It ignites a discussion about the romanticism of a road trip, the lure of adventure and unknown experiences. My friend reveals she finds hours spent in a car meditative, it’s her place of zen. As the road widens and flattens between York and Quairading, and the car begins to hum to the soothing tones of Chet Faker, I decide I’m a fast adopter and closer to carefree than I can remember.

The details: The Golden Outback, WA

Getting there: 

 

Qantas and Virgin fly daily to Perth from all other capital cities.

Staying there:

 

Wave Rock Motel – Basic rooms, perfect for a one-night stay. 2 Lynch Street, Hyden

Wavecrest Village – Self-catered apartments with an adjoining bistro for dinner. 279 Hopetoun-Ravensthorpe Road, Hopetoun

Esperance B&B by the Sea – Lovely hosts, 180-degree ocean views. 72 Stewart Street, Esperance

ibis Styles Hotel – As you’d expect; modern rooms, friendly service. 45 Egan Street, Kalgoorlie

Eating there:

 

Selena’s Ravy Country Kitchen –  Excellent coffee in a country cottage setting. 92 Morgans Street, Ravensthorpe; 08 9838 1163

 

The Loose Goose Restaurant & Bar – Cosy and unassuming décor teamed with beautiful food. 9A Andrew Street, Esperance.

 

The Palace Hotel – Sit on the verandah and be transported to 19th-century gold rush days. Corner of Hannan and Maritana Streets, Kalgoorlie

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    By Emily Murphy
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    This ancient rock formation looks like a giant ocean wave frozen in time, and it’s every bit as awe-inspiring as it sounds.

    Deep in Western Australia’s Wheatbelt, where the skies are big and the red earth stretches for miles, there’s a wave that doesn’t crash – it looms. Towering 15 metres high and curling dramatically like it’s been frozen mid-break, Wave Rock – known as Katter Kich to the Ballardong people of the Noongar Nation – is one of the most surreal natural formations in the country. And yes, it looks exactly like a giant stone tsunami rolling across the outback.

    Wave Rock under the Milky Way in Western Australia

    In local Dreaming stories, Wave Rock was created by the Rainbow Serpent. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    Located just outside the small town of Hyden – a four-hour drive southeast of Perth – Wave Rock is fast becoming one of WA’s most Insta-famous destinations. But this is no recent TikTok trend: this ancient granite cliff is over 2.7 billion years old, predating the dinosaurs by hundreds of millions of years.

    What makes Wave Rock truly jaw-dropping is its colour and curve. The dramatic stripes along its surface – in hues of ochre, rust, charcoal and mustard – are the result of chemical weathering over millennia. Rainwater has washed down the rock face over time, dissolving minerals and creating the distinct streaks that give the formation its tiger-like coat. Combined with the perfect curve of the rock, it’s easy to forget this isn’t a real wave until you’re standing at its base, dwarfed by solid stone.

    Wave Rock in Western Australia

    Many visitors come to snap the classic ‘surfing the wave’ photo. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    While many visitors come to snap the classic ‘surfing the wave’ photo (bonus points for a boogie board prop), there’s more to this spot than a photo op. A short climb to the top offers sweeping views of the surrounding bushland and salt lakes, and the nearby 3.6-kilometre Wave Rock Walk Circuit lets you explore the full breadth of the outcrop and the surrounding area on foot.

    Hippo's Yawn at Wave Rock in Western Australia

    There’s no questioning why it’s called Hippo’s Yawn. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Just a few minutes away, another quirky natural wonder adds to the appeal: Hippo’s Yawn. This rock formation – yes, also exactly what it sounds like – resembles a yawning hippopotamus and is a hit with families and photo hunters alike.

    Wave Rock is also rich in cultural significance, playing a role in local Dreaming stories. According to lore, the wave was created by the Rainbow Serpent as it dragged its body across the land. Visitors are encouraged to respect the site’s cultural importance and learn more about its history with local Indigenous tour operator Katter Kich Tours.

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    Feel weightless in the salt pool. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    And if you’re planning a trip, there’s more than just geology to explore. The annual Wave Rock Weekender, held each spring, transforms this sleepy outback destination into a boutique music and arts festival complete with camping, lake swims and stargazing. There’s also a wildlife park, a lace museum and a salt pool that promises zero-gravity floating thanks to its high mineral content.

    Wave Rock in Western Australia

    Wave Rock has to be seen to be believed. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    The beauty of Wave Rock is that it manages to feel both completely out of place and exactly where it should be. It’s a natural marvel that looks like it belongs on another planet – or at least the edge of a vast ocean – but instead rises out of the dry, flat Wheatbelt like a mirage made real.

    So, if you’re chasing your next great Aussie road trip, add this prehistoric breaker to your bucket list. Because in the middle of WA’s red-dirt heartland, there’s a wave that doesn’t move – but will still move you.