On part 3 of her Golden Outback road trip, Jenny Ringland eases into Esperance. There, she finds breathtakingly beautiful beaches.
Part 3: Hopetoun to Esperance
Another day, another drive filled with majestically contrasting landscapes. We arrive in Esperance to a shock of icy-white beaches with water cascading from royal blue to creamy pastel lapping the shoreline.
I breathe it in; being near the ocean brings instant happiness every time.
We head out of town towards Cape Le Grand National Park, home to Lucky Bay beach and its whiter than white sand. The park is 56 kilometres from Esperance and spread over 31,801 wildly, barren hectares where bushland crashes into the most turquoise water you’re ever likely to see.
We brave the sheer rock face of Frenchman Peak, scrambling for 45 minutes to reach a cave at the top where Mother Nature has kindly created a window in the rock face. It provides sweeping views of the park and out past the granite shoreline.
Exploring the beaches, our favourite is Little Hellfire Bay, accessed via a 20-minute walk along a dirt track. It’s windy here at Cape Le Grand, and today it’s Little Hellfire that’s protected.
Back in Esperance, Heather Gee reflects on what makes her adopted home town so unique.
“I think it’s the isolation and (because it’s incredibly pristine) it’s a very special, beautiful place,’’ says Heather. She and her husband, Steven, arrived in 1966, hungry for opportunity. They now run a B&B overlooking West Beach.
“Anyone with any get-up-and-go and sense of adventure came here because it was the opening up of the new land in the early 1960s. We thought we’d stay for a year or so but it’s too gorgeous, we had to stay.’’
Discover the perfect road trip stopover between Perth and wine country.
Western Australia punches above its weight when it comes to coastal hot spots, but no other town or city has seen a tourism boom quite like Mandurah. Named Australia’s Top Tourism Town in 2023, it’s the relaxed, beachside break you’ve been searching for. And it’s perfectly placed, sitting between Margaret River and Perth, as it’s just a 55-minute drive from Perth’s CBD. Which is why we’ve put together your ultimate Mandurah guide.
Plan your perfect coastal escape to Australia’s Top Tourism Town of 2023.
The best things to do in Mandurah
Wetlands and rivers, ocean and inlet; Mandurah’s laid-back lifestyle centres around the aquatic. Its waterways cover twice the ground of Sydney Harbour – measuring some 134 square kilometres in total – and form a unique environment for oceanic and estuarine flora and fauna to thrive.
In the city’s estuary lives perhaps the region’s most famed inhabitants – a resident pod of 100 bottlenose dolphins – and the inlet’s silty bottom is home to the prized blue manna crab. Spot the former breaching and playing on an hour-long dolphin cruise through the channels, or try your hand at catching the latter by wading through the estuary’s shallows with a scoop net in hand.
While swimming at the circular Kwillena Gabi Pool, chance encounters with the local wildlife aren’t uncommon. The sheltered estuarine pool takes its name from the traditional custodians of the land, the Bindjareb people, and directly translates to ‘dolphin waters’. Jutting out of the eastern foreshore, it’s enclosed by a ring of net-free floating pontoons, which allow the dolphins to swim freely through the attraction.
If that’s a little too close for comfort, book a kayak tour withDown Under Discoveries. The dolphins have been known to cruise beside the paddle-powered crafts, which are a fun, family-friendly way to explore the city’s inner waterways.
Watch dolphins glide by as you explore Mandurah.
You don’t have to be on the water to appreciate the coastal city’s aquatic beauty, with 600 kilometres of cycleways and scenic walking trails traversing Mandurah’s estuary, inlet and coast.
Follow the 30-kilometre coastal trail and you’ll come face to face with one of Thomas Dambo’s headline-making ‘Giants of Mandurah sculptures, Santi Ikto, along the way. There are five sculptures around Mandurah in total, hidden among gum-filled reserves or sitting sentry over the water.
Head to the Mandurah Visitor Centre to pick up a map to pinpoint their exact location and download the traveller’s companion to learn more about the sights along the way. Or join a three-hour e-bike tour from The Bike Kiosk and you’ll stop by two of the giants – Santi Ikto and Yaburgurt Winjan Cirkelstone – as you sightsee central Mandurah.
Meet Santi Ikto, one of the legendary Giants of Mandurah.
Where to eat in Mandurah
Mandurah’s culinary scene reflects its laid-back lifestyle, with large, honest meals and locally brewed beer. After visiting Lake Clifton’s 2000-year-old thrombolites, head to the peppermint and gum-shaded beer garden at Thorny Devil Brewery. Tuck into a platter of house-smoked meats and an ale pulled fresh from the tanks. Closer to town and right on the waterfront is Boundary Island Brewery; here, woodfired pizza, pub-style seafood dishes and easy-drinking brews are centre stage.
On a Murray River Lunch Cruise, the focus is as much on the environment around you as the food you’re filling up on. Help yourself to the colourful salads and freshly cooked meats on the buffet as you meander up the winding, jarrah tree-lined waterway, stopping at the heritage Cooper’s Mill for a quick walking tour along the way.
Keep your eyes trained on the Creery Wetlands as you pass – you’ll spot much of the region’s migratory birdlife, and, as always, might see the playful bottlenose dolphins in the inlet.
The most memorable meals aren’t necessarily always the fanciest, and lunch aboard a self-skippered Mandurah BBQ Boat is a testament to that. All food and beverage prep is left up to you as you cruise through the canals, sausages and steaks sizzling away on the central hot plate.
If seafood is more your kind of fare, board the Wild Seafood Experience, where dolphin cruise meets long table lunch. Eight courses of crab, crayfish and scallops await.
Dine on the water with eight courses of ocean-fresh fare.
Where to stay in Mandurah
With so many waterways comes abundant waterside stays. Like the self-contained Seashells Mandurah on the shores of Comet Bay. The calm, oceanic outlook from the one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments and villas is as close to Maldivian as Mandurah gets. Families especially enjoy the property, bouncing between the protected cove and the beachfront pool for endless hours of fun.
Stay right by the sea.
The Sebel Mandurah , just a hop, skip and jump from the Mandurah Ocean Marina, has a different outlook entirely, overlooking the estuary and lively foreshore on the other side. It’s also within walking distance of the Mandurah Performing Arts Centre, cinema and a swathe of waterfront bars and eateries.
But you can’t get any closer to the water than on a vessel from Mandurah Houseboats. You don’t need a skipper’s ticket to hire one, nor do you need comprehensive boating experience; just a full driver’s license and your undivided attention during the pre-departure tuition will do. Then you’re free to take to the estuaries and tributaries for a few nights of peaceful rest, surrounded by the very element that makes Mandurah so special.
Captain a houseboat to explore Mandurah at your own pace.
