Road trip: Hopetoun to Esperance

By Editor
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On part 3 of her Golden Outback road trip, Jenny Ringland eases into Esperance. There, she finds breathtakingly beautiful beaches.

Part 3: Hopetoun to Esperance

 

Another day, another drive filled with majestically contrasting landscapes. We arrive in Esperance to a shock of icy-white beaches with water cascading from royal blue to creamy pastel lapping the shoreline.

 

I breathe it in; being near the ocean brings instant happiness every time.

 

We head out of town towards Cape Le Grand National Park, home to Lucky Bay beach and its whiter than white sand. The park is 56 kilometres from Esperance and spread over 31,801 wildly, barren hectares where bushland crashes into the most turquoise water you’re ever likely to see.

 

We brave the sheer rock face of Frenchman Peak, scrambling for 45 minutes to reach a cave at the top where Mother Nature has kindly created a window in the rock face. It provides sweeping views of the park and out past the granite shoreline.

 

Exploring the beaches, our favourite is Little Hellfire Bay, accessed via a 20-minute walk along a dirt track. It’s windy here at Cape Le Grand, and today it’s Little Hellfire that’s protected.

 

Back in Esperance, Heather Gee reflects on what makes her adopted home town so unique.

 

“I think it’s the isolation and (because it’s incredibly pristine) it’s a very special, beautiful place,’’ says Heather. She and her husband, Steven, arrived in 1966, hungry for opportunity. They now run a B&B overlooking West Beach.

 

“Anyone with any get-up-and-go and sense of adventure came here because it was the opening up of the new land in the early 1960s. We thought we’d stay for a year or so but it’s too gorgeous, we had to stay.’’

 

CONTINUE ON THE GOLDEN OUTBACK ROAD TRIP…

 

Part 4: Esperance to Kalgoorlie 

 

The details: The Golden Outback: Hopetoun to Esperance, WA

 

Staying there: Esperance B&B by the Sea – Lovely hosts, 180-degree ocean views. 72 Stewart Street, Esperance

 

Eating there: The Loose Goose Restaurant & Bar – Cosy and unassuming décor teamed with beautiful food. 9A Andrew Street, Esperance.

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    This ancient rock formation looks like a giant ocean wave frozen in time, and it’s every bit as awe-inspiring as it sounds.

    Deep in Western Australia’s Wheatbelt, where the skies are big and the red earth stretches for miles, there’s a wave that doesn’t crash – it looms. Towering 15 metres high and curling dramatically like it’s been frozen mid-break, Wave Rock – known as Katter Kich to the Ballardong people of the Noongar Nation – is one of the most surreal natural formations in the country. And yes, it looks exactly like a giant stone tsunami rolling across the outback.

    Wave Rock under the Milky Way in Western Australia

    In local Dreaming stories, Wave Rock was created by the Rainbow Serpent. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    Located just outside the small town of Hyden – a four-hour drive southeast of Perth – Wave Rock is fast becoming one of WA’s most Insta-famous destinations. But this is no recent TikTok trend: this ancient granite cliff is over 2.7 billion years old, predating the dinosaurs by hundreds of millions of years.

    What makes Wave Rock truly jaw-dropping is its colour and curve. The dramatic stripes along its surface – in hues of ochre, rust, charcoal and mustard – are the result of chemical weathering over millennia. Rainwater has washed down the rock face over time, dissolving minerals and creating the distinct streaks that give the formation its tiger-like coat. Combined with the perfect curve of the rock, it’s easy to forget this isn’t a real wave until you’re standing at its base, dwarfed by solid stone.

    Wave Rock in Western Australia

    Many visitors come to snap the classic ‘surfing the wave’ photo. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    While many visitors come to snap the classic ‘surfing the wave’ photo (bonus points for a boogie board prop), there’s more to this spot than a photo op. A short climb to the top offers sweeping views of the surrounding bushland and salt lakes, and the nearby 3.6-kilometre Wave Rock Walk Circuit lets you explore the full breadth of the outcrop and the surrounding area on foot.

    Hippo's Yawn at Wave Rock in Western Australia

    There’s no questioning why it’s called Hippo’s Yawn. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Just a few minutes away, another quirky natural wonder adds to the appeal: Hippo’s Yawn. This rock formation – yes, also exactly what it sounds like – resembles a yawning hippopotamus and is a hit with families and photo hunters alike.

    Wave Rock is also rich in cultural significance, playing a role in local Dreaming stories. According to lore, the wave was created by the Rainbow Serpent as it dragged its body across the land. Visitors are encouraged to respect the site’s cultural importance and learn more about its history with local Indigenous tour operator Katter Kich Tours.

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    Feel weightless in the salt pool. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    And if you’re planning a trip, there’s more than just geology to explore. The annual Wave Rock Weekender, held each spring, transforms this sleepy outback destination into a boutique music and arts festival complete with camping, lake swims and stargazing. There’s also a wildlife park, a lace museum and a salt pool that promises zero-gravity floating thanks to its high mineral content.

    Wave Rock in Western Australia

    Wave Rock has to be seen to be believed. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    The beauty of Wave Rock is that it manages to feel both completely out of place and exactly where it should be. It’s a natural marvel that looks like it belongs on another planet – or at least the edge of a vast ocean – but instead rises out of the dry, flat Wheatbelt like a mirage made real.

    So, if you’re chasing your next great Aussie road trip, add this prehistoric breaker to your bucket list. Because in the middle of WA’s red-dirt heartland, there’s a wave that doesn’t move – but will still move you.