Driving the Overlander’s Way & Savannah Way

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Australian Traveller looks at the Overlander’s and Savannah Way, one of Australia’s 10 Greatest Outback Journeys.

A quick farewell glance in the rear view mirror when leaving Townsville and before you know it you’ve begun your Overland and Savannah Way adventures – combining two of Australia’s great outback trails into a single 2235km journey across the northeastern corner of the continent from Townsville to the NT border via iconic outback Mt Isa, before looping back east to Cairns.

 

Heading southwest along the Flinders Highway (The Overlander’s Way) to Hughenden, you can test your singing or sportsmanship skills at the old gold mining town of Charters Towers – once Queensland’s second-largest city, now host to Australia’s largest amateur cricket carnival and music quest. Pause at the Burra Range lookout on your way through White Mountains National Park. At the strategically placed Torrens Creek you can learn about the WWII Coral Sea battle when the town became a supply dump for explosives, which was accidentally blown up by US soldiers.

 

After a quick stop at Qld’s Prairie Hotel to ease the hunger pangs, you’ll have made it to Hughenden, where you can take a prehistoric walk through the Flinders Discovery Centre or snap a photo with Mutt, the life-sized Muttaburrasaurus model. Hit up a 4WD track and finish the day off with a sunset at MountWalkeror the stunning Porcupine Gorge.

You’ll need all your rest, though, because your next major stop will be Mount Isa – but on the way be sure to drop in on Richmond (for some fossil fossicking), Julia Creek with its famous Dirt ‘n’ Dust Festival each April, and Cloncurry – home of the Royal Flying Doctor Service with its memorial to founder John Flynn.

 

While inMountIsa, raise your Akubras to the largest rodeo in the Southern Hemisphere. One of the largest producers of copper ore inAustralia, Isa is considered the Rodeo Capital of Australia and has always been a town renowned for its outback welcome. With 900km clocked on the odometer, you’ve roughly reached the halfway mark in your Overland Savannah adventure, and as Queensland Rail so aptly puts it: “You’re not a real Aussie till you’ve been to the Isa."

 

Travelling two hours west along Tojo’s Highway (locals’ nickname) to Camooweal, just 12km shy of the NT border, this once lively drovers’ centre is Queensland’s most westerly town. Skim the border as you head north to Burketown via Gregory Downs, where you can rent a canoe year-round and spend the night camping next to the river.

Some 120km later, you’ll have finally joined up with the legendary nation-spanning Savannah Way– just before rolling into Burketown, the self-titled Barramundi Capital of Australia. Outside its annual fishing championships, this small town on the Albert River with its lonely salt plains is a peaceful divider between the wetlands and the magnificent Savannah grasslands.

 

Heading east to Normanton (winner ofTidyTown’s Friendliest Town 2007), you’re now deep in Savannah Gulf territory. And, after posing alongside Krys the Savannah King, Normanton’s statuesque 8.63m tribute to the largest estuarine croc ever captured, it’s all aboard the historic Gulflander train for 152km of scenic bliss. (It eventually returns for those who left their car in Normanton.)

 

If you’re driving the whole way, stop in for some wetland scenery and wildlife at Karumba, a primary player in the Gulf’s prawning and fishing industry, then back on course for your lunch date in Croydon, another ex-goldmining town. Once pastGeorgetown, a booming goldmining town in the 1800s, you’ll be delighted to reachMountSurprise, where you can take a family friendly half-day gem fields tour.

 

With souvenirs and memories well in hand, you’re now on your final leg toCairns. Spend a night camping in theUndaraVolcanicNational Parkand explore by guided tour one of the longest lava cave tubes in the world. Then, once on the home stretch, take a dip in the Innot Hot Springs, just west of the Atherton Tablelands, and finish your outback adventure in sunnyCairns.

 

Who got there first? // Matthew Flinders first charted the Gulf Coast in 1802, but it was Captain J Lort Stokes who retraced his steps and discovered the Albert River, sailing down it and first spotting the grasslands he called the “the plains of promise". Ludwig Leichhardt explored the area next in 1848, 12 years before Burke and Wills. However, it was Frederick Walker and William Landsborough (when searching for Burke and Wills) who opened up the whole Gulf area.

 

Don’t miss // The astonishing Morning Glory in the Gulf of Carpentaria, a 1000km-long cloud formation that rolls across the sky from Sept-Nov. Best seen from Burketown.

 

Drive time // Total distance, 2235km. This type of trip has a lot to do and see so there’s no point rushing it. Spend at least a good two to three weeks experiencing everything it has to offer.

 

Dos + Don’ts

1. Some parts of the Gulf Savannah suffer from lack of road infrastructure, so be particularly careful during monsoonal season.

2. Before bushwalking, especially in remote areas like the White Mountains NP, tell someone where you’re going, when and your expected return.

3. Remember to report any sealed roads on your travels that you consider to be particularly unroadworthy to the RACQ (www.racq.com.au ).

4. 4WDs aren’t invincible, so be careful with any deep creek crossings – if water gets into the air intake, it’s game over for your engine.

5. Invest in a “snatchem strap" for extraction from muddy or boggy roads (if there’s another vehicle nearby, that is).

 

Accessibility // Most of the roads along the Overland Way and Savannah Way are sealed – and even the un-sealed ones are definitely accessible for a standard vehicle. However, there are some pretty spectacular 4WD tracks that a regular car won’t be able to handle.

 

Did you know? // Broadly speaking, there are two seasons in this part of Queensland: April to September is dry/winter and October to March is wet/summer.

 

More info // Visit www.savannahway.com.au  for more info on the Savannah Way from Hell’s Gate to Cairns, and www.adventureoutback.com.au  for more info on the Overland Way.

 

Sidetracks // Overland and Savannah Ways

1. Burke and Wills roadhouse // The site of the explorers’ last northern camp, halfway between Cloncurry and Normanton on the Matilda Hwy.

2. Hell’s Gate // 50km east of the NT border and gateway to the Macassan coast. Explore Aboriginal art and don’t miss the Hell’s Gate Roadhouse, which has everything from food supplies to a limited mechanical workshop.

3. Pungalina Station // For a real outback experience, stay at this eco wilderness Australian outback property 65km north of the Savannah Way (1.5hr flight from Mt Isa). 500,000 hectares of rugged gorges, barramundi fishing and bird watching. With safari camps, flying and 4WDs, it’s an outback adventurer’s delight. www.pungalinasafaris.com.au

4. Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park // 282,000 hectare park around 400km northwest of Mt Isa.

5. O’Brien’s Creek // Grab a fossicking permit and geo tool before heading off to hunt for topaz in O’Brien’s Creek, 40min north of Mt Surprise.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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6 nature-based experiences to prove the Bendigo region comes alive in autumn

    Dilvin Yasa Dilvin Yasa
    A change is as good as a holiday, but never more so than in the Bendigo region when it’s the seasons putting in the transformative work.

    With its gold rush history, opulent architecture and booming food and wine industry, there’s no denying that the Bendigo region is beautiful to visit at any time of year. Visit between March and May, however, and you’ll find the Bendigo in autumn really comes alive. Foliage erupts in a canvas of golden colours and the cooling air makes immersing yourself in nature all the more enticing.

    Need a few ideas to get you started? We’re so glad you asked.

    1. Tackle the bike trails

    Pink Cliffs Reserve
    Pink Cliffs Reserve in Heathcote can be seen on the O’Keefe Rail Trail. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Welcome to a region that punches well above its weight when it comes to cycling. This is where hammies are tested on multi-day rides, and first-timers fall in love with the sport on short (and ridiculously pretty) trails.

    The 49-kilometre O’Keefe Rail Trail is the headline act, following the old railway line between Bendigo and Heathcote. Cross the Campaspe River at Axedale Recreation Reserve and pause at the Platypus Compass Sculpture and the First Nations mural marking the connection between Djaara and Taungurung Country, with Axedale acting as the perfect halfway stop to refuel at a pub or cafe.

    Pedal a little further Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve to be rewarded with views of sculpted pink clay cliffs and narrow gorges that are perfect for a photo stop. Searching for a different type of reward? The Heatchote Wine Region is full of inviting cellar doors.

    There are plenty of other options in the Bendigo region, from the 210-kilometre Goldfields Track , to the Bendigo Creek Trail and Back Creek Trail – both ideal for riders of all abilities. The 3.7 kilometre Little Lake Boort loop is a great family-friendly option.

    Prefer something more adventurous? Spring Gully Mountain Bike Park has been keeping BMX Bandits’ dreams alive for years.

    2. Enjoy the crunch of autumn leaves

    two people having a picnic at Valley of Liquidambers heathcote
    Pack a picnic and head to the Valley of Liquidambers.

    Blinding clusters of crimson, burnt orange and brilliant yellow; here, autumn leaves are crisp confetti of fire and gold. See the magic up close with a slew of parks seemingly dedicated to showcasing Mother Nature’s colour wheel, especially from mid April to early June.

    Pack a picnic for an afternoon at Valley of Liquidambers in Heathcote, where Liquidamber trees transform into a wonderworld of magical foliage. Don’t miss taking a leisurely stroll across the swinging bridge back towards the main street.

    Rosalind Park might be celebrated for its annual tulip display come springtime, but it’s hard to compete with the theatre of autumn. Here, many trees date back to the 1800s, and there’s no better place for a romantic stroll than along the elms, oak and Queensland Kauri that dominate this park.

    Head straight to Lake Weeroona, where an ornamental lake begs for a leisurely lap around its edges, either on foot, or with pedal power.

    3. Immerse yourself in First Nations culture

    woman exploring Kooyoora State Park with guides
    Explore Kooyoora State Park on a cultural tour.

    Its ‘Mountain of Light’ (Guyura in the Dja Dja Wurrung language) title is impressive, but so too is Kooyoora State Park’s rugged landscape of granite outcrops, rocky ridgelines and wide-open skies.

    While there’s nothing to suggest you couldn’t explore Kooyoora’s walking tracks on your own, the best way to understand the 40,000 years of history behind its natural wonders is to book a 2.5-hour Kooyoora Cultural Tour with Dumawul Tours .

    Led by Djaara cultural guides, expect a traditional Welcome to Country smoking ceremony, before engaging storytelling rewinds the clock to reveal the deep cultural significance of the land, its flora, fauna and its continuing connection to Country.

    Keen to stay a little longer? Consider staying overnight at the campground and committing to the park’s wealth of walking trails, such as the 5.3-kilometre hike from the camping ground to the lookout on the Long Rock Walking Track.

    4. Splash in the region’s waterways

    Serpentine Creek Canoe Trail
    Paddle through Serpentine Creek Canoe Trail. (Image: Visit Vic)

    Water babies rejoice: the Bendigo region offers a wealth of waterways to explore.

    Flowing 392-kilometres from the Great Dividing Range to the Murray River, the best way to enjoy Loddon River is with a stop at Bridgewater. Here you can swim in the natural infinity pool or tackle the all-abilities, five-kilometre Serpentine Creek Canoe Trail before browsing the cute stores in town. Hungry? Grab a bite at Bridgewater Hotel .

    Lake Eppalock is popular for water activities, but don’t miss a visit to Little Lake Boort and Big Lake Boort. Birders, in particular, will love the former, thanks to the large variety of bird species that nest in the boardwalk area surrounding the lake.

    Meanwhile, Big Lake Boort is celebrated for its significant Indigenous history and over 400 scarred trees, and offers an opportunity to spot birds and go canoing.

    Meanwhile, watersports and recreational activities at Crusoe Reservoir, located on the outskirts of Bendigo, are the order of the day. Take a walk to the picnic spots of No. 7 Park nearby, and maybe even camp there for the night.

    5. View epic lookouts

    customers at Peregrine Ridge
    Spend time at Peregrine Ridge.

    Sometimes a holiday requires a phenomenal spot on which to perch as you survey your temporary kingdom below. The Bendigo region, happily, doesn’t do anything by halves.

    Located in Heathcote-Graytown National Park, Viewing Rock Lookout – a rocky outcrop offering spectacular views over Heathcote and surrounds – remains a popular choice. Take the hour-long Viewing Rock Circuit Walk and try your hand at gold prospecting nearby.

    Prefer the romance of sunrise or sunset? Pyramid Hill, a stunning granite hill rising 187-metres above sea level, is the place to be (preferably with a coffee and a bagel)

    Over in Terrick Terrick National Park, a walk to the summit delivers a full 360-degree panorama of woodlands, farms and open-sky plains. Pack lunch and perhaps a tent as picnic tables and camping are available.

    Carve out time for Peregrine Ridge , a vineyard situated at the eastern side of Mt Camel Range with an elevation ranging from 250-290 metres. Be rewarded with delicious wine and a cellar door which offers floor-to-ceiling views.

    6. Enjoy the Bendigo region’s parks and gardens

    Rosalind Park in bendigo
    Stroll through Bendigo’s best gardens. (Image: Visit Vic)

    Rosalind Park, located right in the centre of town, is considered Bendigo’s backyard and rightly so. Home to the Bendigo Easter Festival , it’s just as popular year-round for its sixty acres of rolling lawns, towering elms, fernery and winding paths not to mention the playground which has plenty of little fans of its own. A short drive away, Bendigo Botanic Gardens established in 1857 offers a more tranquil space for deep-level nature immersion.

    Those who favour something a little more formal, cottage-style Canterbury Park Gardens famous for its dahlias in autumn delivers.  Stroll through its meticulously maintained ornamental gardens before checking out Lake Tom Thumb and Lake Neangar nearby.

    Time to start planning your adventure to the Bendigo Region, visit bendigoregion.com.au.