A third-generation butcher in Tasmania shares his passion for the trade

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For a snapshot in time, we asked eight people around the country to reflect on Australia Now. Here, Marcus Boks, master butcher of Boks Bacon in Tasmania, shares his thoughts on what the global pandemic has taught him.

Keep reading our Australia Now series here.

 

I live in a little town called Margate, which is over the mountains from the Huon Valley in Tasmania. It’s about 15 minutes south of Hobart. My family are from the Huon Valley, but we have just moved from the Huon to Margate.

Why it’s great to live and work in Tasmania

I’ve lived in Tasmania for 50 years and I’m a third-generation butcher. I have my eldest son working with us now so the fourth generation is entering the business. It’s a family tradition that dates back to my grandfather in the Netherlands.

 

My Australian family grew up in the Huon valley and with everything that’s been happening in the world, we feel lucky to be here. It feels like a safe haven. There are so many tracks for bushwalking and I love that freedom of setting off into the landscape. The scenery is breathtaking. One of my favourite landmarks is Sleeping Beauty, a mountain that resembles a giant female sphinx lying under a rumpled blanket.

 

The Huon is a vibrant place to live. I can travel two minutes down the road and be at a secluded beach. I can be fishing or picking oysters the size of my hand off the rocks. We’ve had a lot of mainland people moving down here recently for a sea change.

 

One of my favourite places to visit is Hastings Caves. It is a massive magical dolomite cave with stalactites and stalagmites and a thermal pool. Not too far is the Airwalk down in the Tahune Forest, which is a big footbridge system that has been built through the trees.

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AI Prompt

What the global pandemic has taught him

The beautiful scenery and our ability to get back to nature has definitely helped us weather the extraordinary circumstances of the past few years. And in terms of selling Boks Bacon, business has never been better. It’s been a challenge to keep up with the demands. We had to lift production, but I have plenty of good workers, so that wasn’t a problem. COVID nudged a lot of people to seek pleasure in simple things, like artisan produce. Our bacon has no added water, which means more flavour. Boks Bacon is made following an old Dutch recipe that was brought to Tassie in the 1950s. It has developed even more of a cult following during COVID.

Boks Bacon being dry-cured
The first thing to note about Boks Bacon is that it dry-cured and not injected with brine, says master butcher Marcus Boks. (Image: Samuel Shelley)

As a community, we learned a lot during COVID. Tasmania has, in the past, been a bit divided: with Hobart in the south, Launceston in the north, you were either north or south. There was a real divide there. Now that COVID has happened and we closed borders it made Taswegians feel like we were all living in the best spot. It made us get together a bit more and become more of a unified state rather than a state split into two different halves. The only place we could go was within our own state. It has given Tasmanian people a very good reminder about what we have here.

The growth in popularity of food from Tasmania

In the last 10 years or so, people around the world have started to recognise how good the food is coming out of Tasmania. Interstate people have known about just how good the food and wine is here for a lot longer than the Tasmanians. COVID has shifted the focus to products such as ours. People have started looking for local product. They want to support us. A lot of the big producers don’t use Australian pork. The pork we use is all Australian; it’s free-range pork from ethical and sustainable farms in Tasmania and Victoria. Our bacon is 100 per cent Australian pork.

 

When I offer my bacon to someone who hasn’t had it before, the first thing I tell them is it is dry-cured, so not injected with brine. Some of the mass-produced bacon is injected with 25 per cent to 50 per cent brine, which means you are paying for a lot of water. It’s also already cooked so you lose all the flavour when it hits the pan. Our bacon is cold-smoked. But we developed a no-nitrite product in the past year and we want to eventually move over to doing all nitrite-free. People have started looking at what they are consuming.

Boks Bacon is cold-smoked
Boks Bacon is cold-smoked in a wood-fired smoker using Tasmanian Oak.

I am so proud of the fact our bacon is still made using this old-fashioned recipe. It’s a product that has withstood the test of time. My grandfather came out from Holland with his family in 1951. He had spent a few years in a POW camp and after that he decided he was going to ship the family out and start anew. He came to Australia and he brought that recipe with him. He learned his trade in about 1930 and learned the recipe from an old butcher who learned the craft in the late 1800s. The recipe has gone from my grandfather Johannes Sr to my father Johannes Jr to me and now onto my son Justin.

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8 iconic ways to experience the Murray

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    No matter your interests, you’re bound to find a unique and utterly memorable experience along the mighty Murray River.

    Along the Murray River lies a network of towns that are at once intertwined and wildly diverse. Linked by the legendary waterway yet strikingly distinct, each has its own personality, pace and collection of experiences you won’t soon forget.

    1. On the river

    fishermen on Lake Mulwala
    Get out onto the pretty Lake Mulwala. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

    A visit to the region wouldn’t be complete without a jaunt on the iconic river. If you’re something of an adventurer, Lake Mulwala – an inlet on the Murray – is perennially popular for all kinds of watersports. Glide among ghost gums on a kayak or stand up paddleboard, or pick up the pace by waterskiing or windsurfing.

    For a more relaxed (but no less immersive) river experience, hop on board one of the famed paddle steamers. Departing from Echuca Moama, Swan Hill and Yarrawonga Mulwala, these historic boats provide a nostalgic view of the Murray.

    2. First Nations culture

    Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk, murray river
    Wander the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk.

    The river is a meeting place of ancient cultures, home to over 50 First Nations clans and an integral part of their communities, storytelling and way of life.

    To learn more about the Traditional Owners, take yourself on a guided stroll through the Wagirra Trail. Situated in Albury/Wiradjuri country, the trail passes through red gum forest, riverside wetlands and the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk.

    Alternatively, visit the Dharnya Centre in the heart of Barmah National Park on Yorta Yorta country. The centre tells the history and stories of the Yorta Yorta people, offering guided walking tours and cruises.

    3. Delicious eats

    the Mildura Boat House
    Savour a relaxed riverside meal at Mildura Boat House.

    For a representative taste of the Murray’s epicurean highlights, a few destinations are well worth your time (and appetite).

    Opa in Echuca is a local staple, serving up authentic and bold Greek dishes in lively surrounds. Greek not your thing? The twin towns of Echuca Moama have numerous top-notch drinking and dining spots to choose from and an ever-evolving food scene.

    In Albury, the River Deck Cafe is perched right on the river, delivering scenic vistas and a vibrant daytime menu. Expect lemon meringue waffles or Green Goddess smashed avo for breakfast, or a zippy duck salad with Southeast Asian flavours for lunch. For more waterfront dining options, head to Mildura Boathouse . Enjoy iconic views and a modern Australian menu focused on local producers and wines.

    4. Hiking and biking trails

    two people on bikes at Lake Boga
    Discover the Murray Region on two wheels. (Credit: Ewen Bell)

    The best ways to experience the Murray’s surrounding landscapes are on foot or by bike. Luckily, plenty of well-marked trails take you through the diverse scenery.

    The Mildura Riverfront has a shared path for both walkers and cyclists, connecting the town centre with a string of parks and lookouts. The path lets you take in the entire town and its distinctive terrain at a leisurely pace, and is relatively flat throughout.

    For a more challenging experience, head to the Huon Hill Parklands or Nail Can Hill Reserve in Albury Wodonga. Both feature a varied network of bushwalking and mountain biking trails through undulating terrain.

    5. Best views along The Murray

    swan at wonga wetlands in the murray
    Spot the birdlife at Wonga Wetlands. (Credit: Visit Albury Wodonga)

    The Murray region is perhaps unsurprisingly a prime destination for epic vistas. The Wonga Wetlands just outside Albury are an aquatic feast for the eyes, a winding web of billabongs and lagoons. Take a stroll through the tranquil landscape and see if you can spot one of the more than 170 bird species living within.

    Stop by Moama Beach at sunset to catch the dazzling display. Vivid hues of pink, amber and gold flare against a backdrop of river red gum trees and are reflected in the river’s glassy waters.

    Head away from the Murray itself, 15 mins from Albury Wodonga, for stunning mountain views at Lake Hume. Or head to Gunbower National Park, a picturesque place boasting a diverse wonderland of waterbirds, wildlife and aquatic plants.

    6. Art and culture

    People viewing art at Murray Art Museum.
    Immerse yourself in art at the MAMA, Albury. (Tourism Australia)

    The region’s diverse mix of galleries, museums and cultural hubs provides a window into its past and present.

    One of the most prominent is Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA), which has a rotating roster of contemporary exhibitions. The Burrajara Gallery is another Albury gem, with a powerful collection of works from local First Nations artists.

    There are several smaller museums and galleries scattered across Echuca Moama and Mildura reflecting the artistic depth of the Murray. Popular picks include The Foundry Arts Space and Customs House Gallery in Echuca Moama, and the Arts Centre, Riverfront Gallery and NAP Contemporary in Mildura.

    7. Murray Region Events

    band on stage at Riverboats Music Festival
    Time your trip around one fo the regions live music events. (Credit: Riverboats Music Festival)

    Each year, the Murray hosts events as unique and characterful as the region itself.

    The Massive Murray Paddle takes place every November, a 415-kilometre, five-day river paddle raising money for local charities. Whether you take part in a canoe, kayak, stand up paddleboard or boat, or watch from the riverbanks, you’ll be in for a memorable experience.

    If you’re a music lover, you’re in luck throughout the year. In summer, plan a trip for Riverboats Music Festival . And in the cooler months, head to the Echuca Moama Winter Blues Festival for four days of performances across different venues.

    8. Best stays along The Murray

    the Cozy Dome at Charm Lodge accommodation
    Find unique stays by the river or in the countryside.

    Throughout your busy few days of exploring, you’ll need a comfortable spot to rest.

    Echuca Moama Riverside Holiday Park is right on the river and has gorgeous views. Pick from riverfront and pet-friendly lagoon cabins, or set up camp at one of the powered sites set among native bush. Or head into the countryside to stay in the quaint glamping or lodge options of Charm Lodge .

    Alternatively, treat yourself to a night or two at The Sebel Yarrawonga Silverwoods , which has stylish modern rooms and luxe amenities. There’s a heated infinity pool, day spa and an on-site restaurant doing elevated fare with local produce.

    For a quintessential Murray experience, hire a houseboat from one of the many operators in Mildura. Available for weekend and week-long adventures, these well-appointed boats immerse you in the leisurely rhythm and quiet beauty of the Murray River.

    Discover what’s new on The Murray at visitthemurray.com.au