Travel Trend: The great Aussie pub revival is here

So long tacky beer-stained carpets and smoke-enveloped pokie rooms, hello sleek interiors and seasonally driven menus. A slew of our favourite watering holes have undergone multi-million-dollar makeovers of late, elevating our Aussie pub scene in both style and substance.

How the great Aussie pub started

Public houses have been part of the Australian societal fabric since the late 18th century, when they were quickly established during colonisation. As well as a gathering place to enjoy a drink, the local pub traditionally provided a range of social services such as accommodation and postal services, and doubled as a meeting place for business, recruiting stations in wartime and refuges during civil emergencies.

the exterior of Merrijig Inn in Port Fairy — Merrijig Inn in Port Fairy is one of Victoria’s oldest pubs, built in the mid-1800s. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Today, there are around 7000 pubs in the country, many of which have been around for centuries and are now classified heritage-listed buildings. There is still a place in our collective heart for a good old-fashioned pub with layers of untouched history, but for the past few years, a pub revival has been brewing.

“Pubs can’t afford to stand still," says Stephen Ferguson, CEO of Australian Hotels Association. “The industry has become far more sophisticated. People’s tastes have changed, expectations have increased."

The evolution of pub culture

the dining area inside the pub at Hotel Gosford — The Art Deco-style Hotel Gosford pays homage to its 1920s roots. (Image: Kitti Gould)

One by one, these ageing establishments are being painstakingly restored and updated; old venues are being gutted and modernised, and heritage elements are being discovered under mismatched wallpapers and gaudy carpets. The modern-day Aussie pub has thoughtful and quality aesthetics combined with top-notch and sustainable food and extensive beverage offerings.

Sydney-based design and construction company Warrane specialises in hospitality venues, particularly Australian pubs, a niche that developed as a response to growing market demand. “Over time, we honed our expertise in refurbishing pubs, blending heritage with contemporary design to create vibrant social spaces," says marketing, brand and sales manager, Matt Dampney. “We have a deep understanding of pub culture. They need to stay relevant, engage with the community and there’s a renewed focus on food and beverage."

The company has overseen the transformations of big-name Sydney pubs such as Coogee Bay Hotel and Hotel Steyne in Manly but also specialises in regional and historic venues, including The Courthouse Hotel, Tamworth, and currently The Federal Hotel, Alstonville. “Pub owners want high-quality finishes and a balance of modernisation while maintaining the venue’s unique character, through restored facades, original timberwork and historic signage," says Dampney.

Hotel Gosford on NSW’s Central Coast is a heritage-listed 1920s building that was given a staggering glow-up in 2022. “It was the biggest and boldest renovation Hotel Gosford has ever experienced," says marketing manager Chelsea Berman. The planning took a decade, with the brief centred around the history of the building and the outcome a sleek, Art Deco-style design. Berman says the hotel has since seen a shift in visitation, with many patrons now coming from farther and wider to drink and dine.

Pubs as foodie destinations

food and drinks at The Rockley Pub in country NSW — The Rockley Pub is worth a stop for its elevated pub fare. (Image: Destination NSW)

Aside from good looks, Stephen Ferguson of AHA says the industry’s food offering has had the biggest shake-up, with pubs catering to diversified tastes. “People will travel for good food," he says. “There’s still a classic schnitty and parmi – or parma, depending on where you come from – but now you can go to the pub with your family and get a five-star meal."

It’s a far cry from the traditional counter meal that would have comprised free bread and cheese or cheap bangers and mash. Nowadays, well-known chefs are taking over pub kitchens (such as Matt Moran and The Rockley Pub in country NSW), fine dining is replacing classic pub meals (think The Royal Mail Hotel in Victoria) and global flavours are part of the experience. Take The Australian Hotel Ballina, whose 2024 transformation included the addition of a Mexican Cantina. “The modern pub experience is about balancing tradition with contemporary expectations, offering a space that feels both familiar and exciting," says licensee and general manager Anton Green.

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Community at its core

a crowd-filled pub at The Gardiner Hotel — The local pub is a place for the community to thrive. (Image: The Gardiner Hotel/Griffin Simm)

But at the core of any pub is the community. “We provide a place for people to connect and unwind, while also supporting local events, live music, sports clubs and charities, fostering a sense of belonging and community spirit," says Green. “It’s more than just a business, it’s part of Ballina’s identity."

Stephen Ferguson agrees that the role of a pub in the community is crucial and hasn’t changed all that much since the 18th century. “Regional pubs are especially crucial in times of crisis, such as floods and bushfires. The pub becomes the centre of everything, often with the town’s only phone line or generator," he says. “In cities, pubs next to railway stations, where people can drop in after work for a drink, are really socially important to the community."

The pub is an institution that has outlasted wars, strict laws from the Temperance Movement (that caused the Six O’Clock Swill), the GFC and the pandemic – and the recent trend of pub revivals is a sign they’ll be part of our culture for centuries to come.

The pub revivals leading the charge

The Denmark Hotel, WA

Acting as a de facto town hall, this classic coastal pub has been a main character in Denmark’s story for almost a century. Its recent transformation exposed the hotel’s charming original green bricks, Jarrah floorboards and heritage fireplaces. The bistro menu is centred around ingredients sourced from local growers and producers and the new boutique bottle shop stocks an impressive range of local wines. The complete stylish overhaul of its 24-room lodge encourages visitors to linger longer.

Hotel Sorrento, Vic

The iconic 1872-built Hotel Sorrento on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula reopened earlier this year after an ultra-chic transformation. Its all-new rooftop with sea views has just been unveiled oozing a Saint Tropez-inspired vibe with a fully retractable roof for sun-drenched days, a fireplace for winter, a curated wine and cocktail list, and a rolling line-up of DJs.

The Gardiner Hotel, Vic

A former bank building in Melbourne’s suburb of Malvern has been transformed into The Gardiner Hotel, a contemporary social hang-out that embraces the 1915 property’s rich history. Within the refreshed white façade, you’ll find a charming ground-floor bistro with heritage-style tiling and panelling and a sun-drenched rooftop for languid afternoon bevvies.

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The Espy, St Kilda, Vic

the Espy sunroom in St Kilda, Vic — The newly opened Espy Sunroom offers a lovely location for long lunches. (Image: Griffin Simm)

A landmark of Melbourne’s beachside suburb for almost 150 years, The Espy has had many transformations. Its latest addition is the Espy Sunroom, a new and expansive space with a laidback, rustic aesthetic. With hanging greenery and a terrace featuring a retractable roof, it makes for a perfect spot for long lunches year-round. Seafood is a hero on the menu, but pub classics and woodfired stone pizzas are also served.

Hotel Gosford, Central Coast, NSW

A cornerstone of the Central Coast for almost a century, this heritage-listed waterhole underwent a stunning revamp and extension in 2022. Its brooding Art Deco design pays homage to its 1926 roots, with rich dark timbers, ambient lighting, brass accents and leather seating. Earl’s Kitchen features an Asian-inspired menu, and its extensive beverage list features 32 tap beers, a whisky vault with optional whisky flights, and creative cocktails, including seven types of margaritas.

The Australian Hotel, Ballina, NSW

a dog inside The Australian Hotel Ballina pub — The Australian Hotel Ballina has been thoughtfully updated to retain its original charm. (Image: Marissa M)

In 2024, this century-old pub was given a very cool reno with the motto “restoring a classic". Original timber work and structural beams were exposed, and a large timber bar was built with fixed bar stools, echoing a traditional pub counter where you can enjoy a drink and a yarn. Enjoy live music outside in the festooned beer garden and fresh, authentic Mexican street food as an alternative to pub classics.

Arkaba Hotel, South Australia

This Adelaide hotel has been pouring beers since 1966. In 2023, a huge $12 million was poured into its redevelopment – at its centre, a striking 360-degree bar with a wraparound LED TV and an elegant dining room featuring warm timbers and soft lighting. Dine on the modern Australian menu with pub classics or nab a table in the indoor-outdoor sports bar and feast on the American-style menu.

Kirra Beach Hotel, Queensland

A staggering $380 million was injected into the resurrection of this 1956-founded institution. The ground-level pub was designed with the local surfing community in mind, with memorabilia, vintage photography, lifesaving caps and surfboards gracing the walls. The new hotel also features a swanky bar and luxury accommodation upstairs but has kept a relaxed salty-skin, sandy-feet vibe.

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From rainforest walks and scenic drives to historic gold-rush towns and standout regional dining experiences, you can find it all in West Gippsland.

Hover over West Gippsland on Google Earth and you’ll see vast tracts of land spread out like green velveteen around the Toorongo Falls Reserve. It’s a landscape that feels almost impossibly lush for a region sitting little more than an hour from Melbourne.

Track southeast in late autumn and early winter and you’ll see pockets of the Mt Baw Baw Plateau dusted in snow. In addition to the forests of mountain ash veined with creeks and rivers, there are pastures and farmland cross-stitched together to form pretty patchworks.

But West Gippsland isn’t defined by scenery alone: in addition to its awe-inspiring nature, a Venn diagram of the region includes gold-rush history and great culinary experiences. Spend a long weekend here and it quickly becomes clear how often these three overlap.

Getting there

Messmates Dining west gippsland — Spend the weekend eating and exploring in West Gippsland. (Credit: Messmates Dining)

Getting to West Gippsland involves as easy drive – it’s just over an hour out of Melbourne along the Monash Freeway.

Not driving? Catch the train from Melbourne on the Gippsland line, terminating at either Traralgon or Bairnsdale, and hop off at Warragul or Drouin.

Visit historic villages

Walhalla historic township — Wander into Australia’s Gold Rush history at Walhalla. (Credit: Rob Blackburn)

The West Gippsland region is on the Traditional Lands of the Kulin and Kurnai nations, specifically linked to the Bunurong, Gunaikurnai and Wurundjeri Peoples, whose connection to Country stretches back thousands of years.

European settlement occurred in the 19th century as timber cutters, farmers and gold seekers pushed into the region’s dense forests. Small towns grew around sawmills and railway lines, and many of those gold rush settlements, timber towns and railway villages still shape the character of the region today.

The most evocative of these is Walhalla Historic Township, a remarkably preserved gold-rush township tucked deep in the mountains. In the late 1800s, it was one of Victoria’s richest goldfields. Today visitors can step inside that history at the Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine, where underground tours reveal the scale of the mining operation that once powered the town’s prosperity. Nearby, the Walhalla Goldfields Railway retraces part of the original narrow-gauge line through the valley, offering a slow journey past forest and river scenery.

Further west, Noojee is a classic mountain village. It’s surrounded by dense forest and waterfalls and has become a natural base for exploring the Baw Baw region. Just outside town, Noojee Trestle Bridge stands as one of West Gippsland’s most striking relics of the rail era. The towering wooden structure is the tallest surviving trestle bridge in Victoria and today forms the centrepiece of an easy scenic walk with wide views across the valley.

Alpine Trout Farm west gippsland — Catch your own lunch at Alpine Trout Farm. (Credit: Nicky Cawood)

At Alpine Trout Farm near Noojee, visitors can fish for trout in mountain-fed ponds before enjoying the catch prepared fresh onsite. It’s a simple experience that reflects the area’s long connection to the surrounding waterways.

Back in Warragul, the region’s main service town, the story shifts from heritage to modern regional life. With galleries, restaurants and sweeping views across the rolling farmland of Gippsland, the town has become a lively hub linking the district’s past with its evolving food and cultural scene. Drive through the town and you’ll find heritage buildings, old pubs and weatherboard cottages that hint at the area’s early days as a frontier landscape.

In other towns the past survives in quieter ways – a historic hall here, a century-old bakery there.

Walks, waterfalls and wild places

Toorongo Falls in west gippsland — Stroll Toorongo Falls Reserve. (Credit: Nicky Cawood)

Even simple roadside stops can feel cinematic in West Gippsland. The region also delivers plenty of opportunities to lace up your walking shoes.

One of the region’s most rewarding nature escapes lies just outside Noojee at Toorongo Falls Reserve. A network of walking tracks winds through the cool-temperate rainforest where towering mountain ash trees filter the light and the air smells of rich, damp earth. The 2.2-kilometre trail to the viewing platform overlooking Toorongo Falls is short, but spectacular, as the water cascades down over moss-covered rock faces into a cool, green gully in Little Toorongo River.

Further north, the Mount Baw Baw Alpine Resort offers year-round adventures. In winter, the mountain attracts skiers and snowboarders. The warmer months are just as compelling, with scenic drives to see alpine wildflowers, mountain bike trails and panoramic hiking routes that open across the plateau.

Cyclists and walkers looking for a more relaxed pace can follow the Rokeby Neerim Rail Trail, which traces a former railway line through farmland and small Gippsland villages. The mostly flat trail passes rolling paddocks, creeks and historic bridges, making it an easy way to drop it down a gear when exploring the countryside.

Taste the best eats of West Gippsland

Hogget Kitchen west gippsland — Taste the best of the region at Hogget Kitchen.

For many travellers, the real drawcards of West Gippsland are the food and wine. The region sits in the heart of Victoria’s fertile dairy country, and that agricultural backdrop has helped shape a dining scene where seasonal produce and local provenance take centre stage.

Hogget Kitchen has helped put Warragul firmly on the radar for serious regional dining in West Gippsland. Here, head chef and owner Trevor Perkins runs the kitchen alongside well-known winemakers William (Bill) Downie and Pat Sullivan. Hogget Kitchen lives up to its promise of exceptional destination dining; what lands on the table depends largely on what nearby farms have harvested that week as well as a wine list from Wild Dog Winery and other Gippsland producers.

Warragul is also where you’ll find Messmates Dining where the kitchen team is led by Michelin-trained chefs. The Euro-leaning bistro and wine bar brings a polished edge to the local dining scene using produce sourced from across West Gippsland.

For something more casual, the century-old Noojee Hotel is the kind of hub that every traveller dreams of finding after a long drive. Expect generous pub classics served on the sunny deck in summer or beside the crackle of a log fire in winter. Nearby, rustic Toolshed Bar, Bistro & Cabins is the place to go for a wood-fired pizza topped with smoked local trout paired with Gippsland wine, making it a rewarding stop for lunch or an overnight stay.

Time your visit with the Truffle Festival