From ocean to plate: catch and cook on the South Coast

hero media
Elisha Kennedy dives into the catch-and-cook philosophy, literally, by taking a hands-on tour through the bountiful waters of NSW’s Far South Coast.

We had always planned to make our road trip to the base of the New South Wales south coast our ‘seafood holiday’. As city-dwellers, my partner and I relished the opportunity to cast our phones aside and drive to a place where the ocean is sapphire blue and you can pick up a dozen delicious oysters from a roadside stall for under $10.

 

That is our idea of heaven, but we wanted more than just buying our meals – we wanted to physically catch our own. We’re both competent at fishing and were keen to try something more hands-on, but how would we know where to look? What to bring? Or what to do with it when we found it? Easy – ask a local.

 

Scott Proctor grew up on the Sapphire Coast and has spent a large portion of his life either in the ocean, or learning about it. After studying marine science at the University of Wollongong, he returned to his hometown of Pambula, deciding to share his passion for the sustainable seafood that is available there through his tour company, Australia’s Coastal Wilderness Adventures (ACWA).

 

Through ACWA, Scott offers small-group marine experiences including snorkelling, prawning and ocean to plate. We chose the ocean-to-plate experience, which incorporates a targeted dive for abalone, lobsters, mussels, crayfish and sea urchins followed by a cook-up of the seafood harvest for lunch. The market value alone to buy this produce is hundreds of dollars, but it was the opportunity to pick the brains of a local marine expert that really had us hooked.

 

We met Scott at the Eden Visitor Information Centre, and from here he drove us to a remote access point to Twofold Bay. All necessary gear, equipment and a fishing licence is provided and, after kitting up, we clambered over rocks to the shore.

 

A quick verbal run-through from Scott on snorkelling and breathing techniques, and we were in practising our dives. It doesn’t take long to get the hang of it, and we improved with each resurfacing. When we felt comfortable in depths of several metres, Scott led us further offshore to begin ‘the hunt’. We snorkelled through a changing ocean landscape: rocky walls, seagrass beds and shallow reefs.

 

The bay was teeming with marine life. On our two-hour dive we encountered wobbegong sharks, eastern rock lobsters, black and red spined urchins, starfish, abalone, blue mussels and a variety of fish species. But only some of those are good eating, and we were after a meal.

 

The prized abalone hide in crevices, cementing themselves between the curves of rocks in the deep. The smaller ones are plentiful here in the bays of Eden, but the minimum legal size to keep is 11.7 centimetres, and finding the larger ones takes patience. What we were really after were lobsters, and finding them is no easy feat. They’re extremely well camouflaged and surprisingly strong. Scott’s well-trained eye spots them, lying low in the crayweed – given away only by their thin and reddish antennae. A quick and agile grab secured them, and we kept them in netted bags attached to our weight belts. Deeper offshore we found mussel beds, easy enough to twist off the rocks – if you can hold your breath long enough to do so.

 

Between the three of us we bag two crayfish, four abalone and 40 mussels. Scott chats about the importance of bag limits, encouraging you to take “just enough for lunch", and he always varies dive locations. “It’s crucial not to harvest too much from the same area," he tells us. “It might be tempting but it’s not sustainable, for you or the ecology."

 

We carted our harvest up the hill to Eden’s Rotary Park lookout, to cook what we would go on to confidently claim as the best meal of our lives. After two hours of intense swimming and diving in the salty ocean we had worked up a healthy appetite and, as we readied lunch together, Scott demonstrated the best ways to prepare and cook our catch.

 

We couldn’t believe the immense satisfaction and overall sense of wellbeing we gained from a single meal. You haven’t tasted fresh until you’ve eaten seafood that your own hands have plucked out of the ocean and thrown into the frypan in a matter of minutes. Our catch is paired with a local sourdough from Wild Rye’s Baking Co in Pambula and oysters fresh from the Merimbula leases. “It’s so important for me to support the local producers," Scott explains. “In this way, we’re working together." Everything we ate for lunch came from the local region – even the tomatoes were grown in Scott’s family’s backyard.

 

At the end of our ocean-to-plate experience, our bodies felt fit and full. In such a short amount of time we had gained a skillset that could feed us for many meals to come, and that is an invaluable experience.

 

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

hero media

Discovering East Arnhem: Australia’s most unique and rewarding corner

    Joanne Millares Joanne Millares

    Hard to reach and harder to forget, East Arnhem offers something rare in modern travel: the chance to slow down and experience Country on its own terms.

    The sky feels bigger in East Arnhem . It stretches wide and uninterrupted above rouged earth, stringybark woodland and beaches so empty they seem to belong to another era. The coastline curves for kilometres without a footprint and the horizon runs on forever.

    For comedian Lou Wall, the scale of the place was the first thing that hit them.

    “The sheer openness,” they say. “The sky feels infinite and the land stretches out endlessly. It’s pretty breathtaking visually.”

    But the physical landscape is only part of the story. The real reward isn’t only the scenery but the shift in perspective the journey brings. Visitors stop trying to tick off the destination and a real engagement takes over.

    “It made me never want to travel again,” Wall jokes. “In that I never wanted to leave East Arnhem.”

    Getting there

    Aerial shot of East Arnhem’s coastline as cars trace the curve of the shore.
    Sail along the remote coastline on an expedition cruise.

    Reaching East Arnhem is part of the adventure. Travellers typically fly into Gove Airport near Nhulunbuy via Darwin or Cairns, or arrive by expedition cruise along the remote coastline. Others make the journey overland along rutted dirt roads that cut through East Arnhem’s small pockets of monsoon forest.

    However you arrive, there’s a distinct feeling of crossing into somewhere different. Permits are required to visit the region, reflecting the fact that this is Yolŋu land where communities and traditional owners maintain deep cultural connections to Country.

    The extra planning becomes part of the experience. By the time visitors arrive, they understand they’re entering a place not just of respect, but also patience and curiosity.

    At one with nature

    East Arnhem’s  landscapes leave a strong imprint. For Wall, one place in particular still lingers in their memory: Ngalarrkpuy , also known as Lonely Beach, near Bawaka Homeland.

    “I genuinely felt like I was living inside an Instagram filter,” they say. “One of the most stunning feats of nature I’ve ever seen. The water was so clear I swear I could see even the fish smiling.”

    Across the region, natural experiences unfold at a slower pace. Fishing, beachcombing and island hopping reveal the rhythm of the coastline. The tides shape daily life and the vastness of the landscape makes even simple moments feel downright cinematic.

    For visitors with limited time, Wall says the Bawaka Homeland experience is unmissable.

    “I just left and I’m already planning when I can get back there.”

    The sense of remoteness is part of the appeal. In a country where many beaches are crowded and well-trodden, East Arnhem’s coastline still feels wonderfully wild.

    Immersing in local culture

    A visitor spends a meaningful moment alongside Yolŋu guides, gaining insight into their deep cultural knowledge and connection to the land.
    Experience authentic moments with the locals.

    Culture is woven through every experience in East Arnhem. Visitors have the opportunity to spend time on Country with Yolŋu guides and knowledge holders who share stories and traditions that have been passed down for generations.

    For Wall, one of the most powerful moments came during a conversation with a Yolŋu elder.

    “I got to meet a traditional elder, Mayalil, in Nhulunbuy,” they say. “Listening to her talk about her home made the land feel alive in ways I couldn’t have imagined.”

    The region is also home to internationally recognised Aboriginal art centres where artists shape works deeply connected to land and family knowledge.

    Music carries the same cultural energy. East Arnhem has produced globally recognised artists such as King Stingray and Baker Boy, blending Yolŋu language, storytelling and contemporary sound.

    Wall experienced this musical spirit first-hand.

    “A jam session around the fire was it for me,” they say. “Letting the deep joy and history of their music wash over me…  and meeting a few of the King Stingray musicians was unreal.”

    These moments of human connection often become the most memorable part of a visit.

    Spotting local wildlife

    An aerial view of the beach shows tiny figures lined up across the white sand, moving as if in a rhythmic dance.
    Step into a world where nature reigns.

    The wildlife of East Arnhem adds another layer to the experience. The region is home to an extraordinary range of animals, from waterbirds and turtles to dugongs, dolphins and the formidable saltwater crocodile.

    Wall admits they didn’t actually spot a croc during their visit.

    “Devastatingly, I didn’t see one,” they laugh. “But with all the stories from the locals I definitely gained a healthy respect for caution.”

    Some of the most memorable wildlife encounters can be surprisingly small., At Banubanu Beach Retreat on Bremer Island, Wall remembers walking along the beach one morning and watching it come alive.

    “As you walk through the sand you see hundreds of crabs scurrying into their holes as you pass by,” they say. “Such a small thing, but it was completely magical.”

    Moments like this reveal the quieter rhythms of East Arnhem, where even the smallest creatures seem to play a part in the landscape.

    Visitors who make the journey soon learn the most important travel tip of all.

    “Go in open-minded with a sense of curiosity,” Wall says. “Be prepared to ditch your plans. The land and the locals will guide you on an adventure no spreadsheets could ever compete with.”

    And most importantly, they add, don’t rush.

    “The land and people deserve your time and attention. You’ll be all the better for slowing down.”

    For more information on visiting East Arnhem, head to eastarnhem.com.au .