Embracing the art of aperitivo hour

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Negroni, Sbagliato, Bicicletta. From Brunswick to Chippendale, bitter aperitivo drinks are officially the new black. But ask an Italian and they’ll tell you that ‘aperitivo hour’ isn’t just about what’s in your glass, it’s a daily ritual that embodies the spirit of ‘la dolce vita’.

You don’t need to look too far to see that the Spritz is having a big moment in Australia right now. It crept its colourful way into bars and backyards a few summers ago with the approachable and now ubiquitous Aperol Spritz, coinciding with a global resurgence in aperitif drinks across the board (hello vermouth, sherry, pastis).

 

But while it’s all very well to embrace the bitter refreshment of fashionable Italian pre-dinner drinks, it seems a shame not to do as the Italians do and partake in the accompanying cultural and culinary joys of aperitivo hour too.

 

The word aperitivo is derived from the Latin aprire, which means ‘to open’. On a practical level, it refers to the ritual of taking a dry or bitter drink ahead of a meal in order to ‘open’ one’s stomach and prime the appetite, but on a social level fare un’aperitivo is the Italian answer to happy hour – just with more food, less drunkenness, and a double shot of convivial Italian ebullience.

Food italian wine drinks bar restaurant
A good aperitivo begins with a well-mixed drink.

In their recent book Spritz, authors Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau describe aperitivo hour as, “An attitude – a devil-may-care moment in the day when the Italian Dream seems a little more tangible." Having perfected the art over several summers spent in Italy in my youth, I’d have to agree. There’s just something so evocative and enduring about sipping bitter bubbly drinks in a bustling Italian piazza at dusk.

 

If you too have been lucky enough to holiday in Venice, Milan or Rome, you’ll know the scene well – it’s that magical time of the day (usually between 4:30 and 9pm) when work is done for the day and the night is still young.

 

It’s when the young, the old, the humble and the fabulous all gravitate to their local piazza bar to meet friends and unwind with a not-too-boozy drink and a few simple salty snacks (olives, nuts, potato chips, crostini and the like always come gratis with an aperitivo drink in Italian bars).

 

OK, so we like the Italian drinks, what do we need to learn about Italian drinking culture?

Food italian wine drinks bar restaurant
Italians have perfected the practice of a drink and snack.

First of all, aperitivo drinks are usually low in alcohol (think Campari, Aperol, vermouth). Getting drunk just isn’t a thing for Italians. Secondly, aperitivo drinks are always sipped slowly – with a bite on something in between. The ritual should never be rushed. Piano, piano, as the Italians say.

 

Mark Ward, the man behind Aussie vermouth brand, Regal Rogue, says the ritual of drinking an aperitif marks a transition from the work day into the “relaxation" part of the day. “For me, aperitif drinks mark the romantic transition into the evening, especially when you’re on holiday."

 

My colleague Sam just spent a few years spent living and working in Treviso, northern Italy where she got an insight into what makes the social rite of aperitivo hour so important.

 

“Italians place a huge emphasis on enjoying life," she says. “Probably because they’re stifled by such heavy-handed bureaucracy; there’s a system, structure, hierarchy, line or form to fill out for absolutely everything, which can really wear you down."

 

Sam says that for working Italians, aperitivo hour is about celebrating the end of a weekday. “It’s social, fun, and rarely involves work chat, surprisingly. The conversation is never anything too serious – it’s all lighthearted banter and lots of laughing."

 

She also explains that in northern Italy, social drinking is “an art-form" and a way of life. “It’s treated with respect, from a young age. You rarely see the drunken fool outside bars, and if you do, it’s likely they’re an expat."

 

Meanwhile, Ward says that while aperitivo culture is starting to stir in Australia, it won’t be long before it takes off. “The influence of Italy runs through every Australian city," he says. “As the nation’s palate evolves, a new generation of taste explorers want to enjoy what else is out there."

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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The perfect mid-week reset an hour from Melbourne

    Kellie Floyd Kellie Floyd
    Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

    Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

    walking trails in the Yarra Valley
    You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

    A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

    holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy
    Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

    a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy
    A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

    I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

    Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

    Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

    Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate
    Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

    As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate , I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

    oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate
    Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

    On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

    I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

    kangaroos in Yarra Valley
    Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

    the Yarra Valley vineyards
    Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

    Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

    COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

    It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

    A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

    legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway
    The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

    The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

    I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

    The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

    After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

    Playing there

    the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley
    Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art . Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

    Eating and drinking there

    Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

    seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station
    The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)