Embracing the art of aperitivo hour

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Negroni, Sbagliato, Bicicletta. From Brunswick to Chippendale, bitter aperitivo drinks are officially the new black. But ask an Italian and they’ll tell you that ‘aperitivo hour’ isn’t just about what’s in your glass, it’s a daily ritual that embodies the spirit of ‘la dolce vita’.

You don’t need to look too far to see that the Spritz is having a big moment in Australia right now. It crept its colourful way into bars and backyards a few summers ago with the approachable and now ubiquitous Aperol Spritz, coinciding with a global resurgence in aperitif drinks across the board (hello vermouth, sherry, pastis).

 

But while it’s all very well to embrace the bitter refreshment of fashionable Italian pre-dinner drinks, it seems a shame not to do as the Italians do and partake in the accompanying cultural and culinary joys of aperitivo hour too.

 

The word aperitivo is derived from the Latin aprire, which means ‘to open’. On a practical level, it refers to the ritual of taking a dry or bitter drink ahead of a meal in order to ‘open’ one’s stomach and prime the appetite, but on a social level fare un’aperitivo is the Italian answer to happy hour – just with more food, less drunkenness, and a double shot of convivial Italian ebullience.

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A good aperitivo begins with a well-mixed drink.

In their recent book Spritz, authors Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau describe aperitivo hour as, “An attitude – a devil-may-care moment in the day when the Italian Dream seems a little more tangible." Having perfected the art over several summers spent in Italy in my youth, I’d have to agree. There’s just something so evocative and enduring about sipping bitter bubbly drinks in a bustling Italian piazza at dusk.

 

If you too have been lucky enough to holiday in Venice, Milan or Rome, you’ll know the scene well – it’s that magical time of the day (usually between 4:30 and 9pm) when work is done for the day and the night is still young.

 

It’s when the young, the old, the humble and the fabulous all gravitate to their local piazza bar to meet friends and unwind with a not-too-boozy drink and a few simple salty snacks (olives, nuts, potato chips, crostini and the like always come gratis with an aperitivo drink in Italian bars).

 

OK, so we like the Italian drinks, what do we need to learn about Italian drinking culture?

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Italians have perfected the practice of a drink and snack.

First of all, aperitivo drinks are usually low in alcohol (think Campari, Aperol, vermouth). Getting drunk just isn’t a thing for Italians. Secondly, aperitivo drinks are always sipped slowly – with a bite on something in between. The ritual should never be rushed. Piano, piano, as the Italians say.

 

Mark Ward, the man behind Aussie vermouth brand, Regal Rogue, says the ritual of drinking an aperitif marks a transition from the work day into the “relaxation" part of the day. “For me, aperitif drinks mark the romantic transition into the evening, especially when you’re on holiday."

 

My colleague Sam just spent a few years spent living and working in Treviso, northern Italy where she got an insight into what makes the social rite of aperitivo hour so important.

 

“Italians place a huge emphasis on enjoying life," she says. “Probably because they’re stifled by such heavy-handed bureaucracy; there’s a system, structure, hierarchy, line or form to fill out for absolutely everything, which can really wear you down."

 

Sam says that for working Italians, aperitivo hour is about celebrating the end of a weekday. “It’s social, fun, and rarely involves work chat, surprisingly. The conversation is never anything too serious – it’s all lighthearted banter and lots of laughing."

 

She also explains that in northern Italy, social drinking is “an art-form" and a way of life. “It’s treated with respect, from a young age. You rarely see the drunken fool outside bars, and if you do, it’s likely they’re an expat."

 

Meanwhile, Ward says that while aperitivo culture is starting to stir in Australia, it won’t be long before it takes off. “The influence of Italy runs through every Australian city," he says. “As the nation’s palate evolves, a new generation of taste explorers want to enjoy what else is out there."

How to spend a tasty long weekend in Geelong and the Bellarine

    Lucy CousinsBy Lucy Cousins
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    From rust-coloured foliage and foodie experiences to stunning sunsets, this part of Victoria is best explored as the mild days of winter arrive.

    As the heat of the summer sun subsides and the milder days roll in, the stunning landscapes of Geelong and the Bellarine add pops of colour. The slight chill in the air will stir your taste buds and invite you to explore the peninsula’s foodie hotspots, while the vivid sunsets and cooler evenings will draw you to cosy fireside chats and evening adventures to watch the stars appear one at a time.

    Just over an hour from busy Flinders Street, or a short 25-minute drive from Avalon Airport, Geelong is Melbourne’s cooler, more laid-back cousin with a sparkling marina, stunning surf beaches, impressive museums and a lively foodie scene.

    federal mill geelong in autumn
    Winter is the perfect time to see local sights.

    It’s also the perfect starting point from which to explore the Bellarine Peninsula. Packed full of jaw-dropping scenery, inviting townships and over 40 cellar doors serving up local cool-weather wines, winter here is distinctly beautiful with its change of colours, temperatures and produce.

    Whether you drive or catch the short but incredibly scenic ferry from the Mornington Peninsula, it’s no surprise this region offers up one of Australia’s best long weekend destinations. Here’s how to soak it all up.

    Day 1: Explore Geelong with the locals

    Morning

    Start the day by grabbing breakfast and strong coffee from Pavilion Geelong (try the braised mushrooms on toast) while watching the gentle waves lapping the edge of Corio Bay. After brekkie, join the locals walking along the scenic Art Deco waterfront to explore the historic piers, beautiful beaches and gleaming white yachts in the marina.

    Pavilion Geelong in winter
    Start the day at Pavilion Geelong.

    Afternoon

    After a morning in the sun, venture to the recently refurbished Federal Mill precinct , a grand old woollen mill built in 1915. Explore the industrial history of this area, as well as the gourmet produce on offer, before pulling up a table at the popular Paddock Bakery . Famous for their wood-fired sourdough and tasty pastries, this cafe serves up tasty dishes like their Crème Brûlée doughnuts. Chase your lunch down with an afternoon of gin tasting at Anther Distillery .

    Paddock Bakery Crème Brûlée doughnut
    Try the Paddock Bakery Crème Brûlée doughnuts.

    Night

    For an evening of frivolity and decadence, head back to Geelong for dinner and a show at the newly reopened Geelong Arts Centre . Later, enjoy a mini Negroni with a scoop of Black Pearl Oscietra Gold caviar at the sleek Non Disclosure Bar .

    Day 2: A foodie-centric day in Moorabool Valley

    Morning

    Wake up with the soft winter sun and cooler temperatures, then travel to the lush farmlands and stunning landscapes of Moorabool Valley, the home of Meredith Farm Store . Choose a seat outside in the leafy courtyard and enjoy a tasting platter of fresh produce among the flowers.

    Afternoon

    To explore the area, visit the cellar door at the Moorabool Valley Wine Collective , which encompasses three award-winning winemakers, before stopping by Austin’s Wines for lunch. Not only can you taste over 10 local wines at the dedicated tastings bar, but you can also curate your own cheese platter to eat outside on their shaded deck.

    two people trying the wine at Austin's wines
    Stop by Austin’s Wines for lunch.

    Night

    Continue on your foodie quest with dinner in Newtown at the Asian fusion Two Noble restaurant, or, inside the same venue at Sawyers Arms Tavern, dive into the European flavours of Eileen’s Charcoal Grill on your way back to Geelong.

    table spread at two noble restaurant
    The chef’s hatted Two Noble restaurant is waiting.

    Day 3: Adventures in The Bellarine

    Morning

    For a light breakfast, head 20 minutes out of town to the rustic Ket Baker , an artisan bakery known for their 100% sourdough croissants. Grab a hot cuppa under the gum trees and enjoy the morning chill in the air. Then spend the morning on the foodie-focused Bellarine Taste Trail , visiting local producers like  Bellarine Smokehouse Flying Brick Cider House  and FarmDog Brewing .

    croissants at ket baker
    Enjoy a light breakfast at Ket Baker.

    Lunch

    There’s no better way to enjoy lunch than to make it from scratch. With Harvest Experience’s Pasta & Pinot cooking class, you’ll have a genuine farm-to-plate experience as you learn to make fettuccini and filled ravioli from scratch. Once cooked, sit down, relax and enjoy your hard work with a glass of Bellarine Peninsula pinot noir.

    Afternoon and night

    Burn off your lunch with an afternoon trip to the bayside town of Portarlington , where Australian blue mussels are harvested offshore. Stop by the quirky Ducks Nuts and peruse the trinkets and treasures before making your way to the restored Portarlington Grand Hotel . Built in 1888, this beautiful building now houses four distinct dining experiences, including the new open-air spaces of The Atrium and Lawn, where you can enjoy a local gin as the sun sets over the bay.

    waiter holding mussels at Portarlington Grand Hotel
    Be sure to try Portarlington mussels.

    Start planning your ultimate Geelong & The Bellarine adventure at visitgeelongbellarine.com.au.