Etiquette 101: How to be a better diner

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Because there’s no customer equivalent of TripAdvisor, Leanne Clancey turns the tables to let hospitality pros dish the dirt on bad diners, and they have three things to say: communicate; be kind; and for crying out loud, put your phone away.

Since the media (and ergo, the world) became obsessed with food, it seems like every second grandma and school kid is laminating chocolate and sous vide-ing their venison. But while our levels of gastronomic sophistication might be at an all-time high, elsewhere our food experience is lagging. When it comes to being a good diner, it seems we’ve forgotten our manners.

 

Thanks to review sites like TripAdvisor, if you’ve got a gripe about your tripe, it’s game on. Restaurant bashing has become a very public sport, but you’ll seldom hear the other side of the story – that is the tales of inconsiderate, rude and downright reprehensible behaviour that diners routinely dole out to restaurant staff.

 

Melbourne-based food critic and former waitress, Larissa Dubecki chronicled the horrors of poor customer behaviour in her 2015 memoir, Prick with a Fork. In it she says: “There seems to be this psychological thing that once you are at a restaurant for a few hours, you have the right to this slave for the night and that slave doesn’t deserve basic human civility." It’s a shameful reality that most hospo pros will back up.

 

To get a sense of what things are like, I recently quizzed some industry friends about their pet peeves. I heard sordid stories of lies, sexism, stolen tips, pinched bums, and patrons sneaking off to get ‘intimate’ in the washroom between courses, but the core theme that united all of the feedback was a simple wish to be treated with respect. My restaurateur friend, Bernard Glaude from Daylesford’s Belvedere Social agrees, “Customers sometimes forget that their server is also a human being. Being rude, disrespectful or otherwise degrading just isn’t acceptable behaviour in the 21st century."

 

Other biggies? Stacking plates or handing plates to servers while they are clearing the table (waiters have a system for this, please let them do their job). Paper napkins stuffed in glassware (just gross). Fussy eaters and allergy fakers. Customers who voice complaints online when the issue could have been easily resolved with staff in the restaurant.

 

I also heard a lot of complaints about something that wasn’t an issue back in the ’90s: smartphones. Today’s wait staff have to deal with loud talkers, loud ring tones and loud videos, the latter of which – according to Glaude – is the biggest vibe killer. “Playing videos in a dining room is just not acceptable," he says. “If you do it here, you will be told to turn it off like a naughty school child."

 

There’s also a loss of presence that comes with being a phone-addict: Instagrammers, Tinder swipers, alpha males doing deals, silent couples scrolling their way through multi-course degustations.

 

Then there’s the straight-up abuse that restaurant staff endure on the job. Rudeness, arrogance, aggression, racism and sexism are all part of the territory, and yet a waiter’s role is to grin, bear it and always, always apologise.

 

For anyone working in a service-led workplace the old “the customer is always right" mantra is drilled in from the get-go – no matter how bad, wrong or indefensibly ill-mannered said customer might be, but if there’s one industry in which the adage really stretches the friendship, it’s hospitality.

 

Trust me, there’s a reason your waiter wants your tips – after cleaning up the messes of feral kids, being hit on by lecherous drunks, and obeying the endless dietary whims of weight-conscious, joyless gluten frauds all week, there’s a very good chance they’ve earnt them.

 

One of the industry’s other big gripes is the rising trend of the no-show: people who book a table and don’t turn up, without bothering to let the venue know. As a diner, it may not feel like a big deal to change your mind and blow off a restaurant booking at the last minute without calling, but according to restaurant booking site Dimmi, it’s an epidemic that is said to be costing the industry an estimated $75 million per year.

 

To help combat the issue, last year Dimmi decided to take a firm stand by allowing restaurants to blacklist Dimmi users who fail to honour their reservation. In the last 12 months, Dimmi partner restaurants have blacklisted more than 38,000 diners, up from around 3000 the previous year. The company’s founder and CEO, Stevan Premutico, says the average diner doesn’t realise the consequences. “The majority of people don’t understand the impact that no-shows have on the restaurant industry. They think somebody else is going to make up that booking, but that’s typically not the case," he explains.

 

For small businesses already working on tiny margins, keeping tables full is crucial. The combination of low profit margins, high wage costs and high staff turnover make running a restaurant a precarious balancing act. That 30-second phone call can be the difference between a business wasting a table, losing revenue and sending staff home early or, alternatively, them re-booking it and staying afloat financially.

 

Sydney restaurateur, Erez Gordon says that another factor that is especially galling during a busy service is when a party shows up with fewer numbers than originally booked, without letting the restaurant know in advance. “If we know, we can sell the other two seats and rearrange the table plan to maximise our earning potential for that service," he explains. “It has a big impact." But like any well-trained hospo pro, Gordon has to grin and bear it. “In a saturated and highly competitive market, we simply smile and accept poor behaviour [otherwise] we risk disenfranchising potential future customers."

 

But despite all this, most hospitality professionals are in the industry because they get a kick out of showing diners a good time. “These stories of bad customer behaviour might sound really terrible, but thankfully they are rare," explains veteran Melbourne restaurateur and industry advocate, Matteo Pignatelli. “I truly love 98 per cent of my customers, and I’m extremely grateful because these people come to us rather than the thousands of other restaurants around town.

 

“The best customers understand how hard we work to make sure they’re happy and they let us do that for them. At the end of the day, what we want more than anything is to make customers happy and see them come back. It’s our job – it’s what we do."

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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8 towns in Victoria’s Heartland that will delight your tastebuds

(Image: Visit Victoria)

    Jade Raykovski Jade Raykovski
    Get out of the city and close to nature in Victoria’s Heartland, one of Australia’s finest food-producing regions. 

    This fertile area is abundant in natural beauty, rich volcanic soils, mineral-rich waters, artisan producers and farm fresh produce. In towns spanning the Central Goldfields, Macedon Ranges and surrounds, just a short drive or easy train ride from Melbourne , you can taste a plethora of incredible food and world-class wine in these best of Victoria’s Heartland food regions. 

    1. Daylesford

    Lake House Restaurant, Daylesford
    Dine on the multi-course fare served at the elegant and light-filled Lake House Restaurant. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

    Warm and inviting, fans of Japanese cuisine should make a beeline for Kadota . Settle in for Japanese flavours, in cocktail glasses and on the plate, that have been carefully produced using seasonal local ingredients.

    For those who love a farm-to-table moment, Sault is the place to be. Fresh ingredients – directly from the restaurant’s kitchen gardens, or from regional organic farms and producers – are crafted into a delicious seasonal menu by Chef Hat-awarded Head Chef Jack Powlay.

    Boasting gorgeous water views from its location on the banks of Lake Daylesford, Boathouse Restaurant is perfect for an elevated dining experience.

    For a special treat, a visit to the two-chef-hatted restaurant  at the Lake House is a must. Savour beautiful views and a seasonal menu championing small-scale local suppliers and their own farm just 10 minutes away. 

    2. Hepburn Springs

    If you're exploring Victoria food regions to visit, Surly Goat is one restaurant you won’t want to miss.
    Tuck into hearty, farm-fresh flavours. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Taking cues from its Swiss-Italian roots and the area’s produce, the picturesque Lavandula Farm  houses a seasonal trattoria, rustic wine bar, and a new deli and larder inside the original Shepherd’s Flat Post Office. 

    For another dining destination immersed in the area’s history, visit The Hepburn Pavilion  café at Hepburn Bathhouse. Brunch, lunch, scones and house-made cakes are served under the vaulted ceiling of this Edwardian heritage-listed building. 

    And while The Surly Goat  may have a farm-like ring to it, it’s in fact a homely restaurant that takes seasonality seriously. Chef David Willcocks heads up an ever-changing set menu celebrating local and small-scale regenerative producers. 

    3. Trentham

    Add Sisko Chocolate to your list of Victoria food regions to visit for a sweet stop along the way.
    Satisfy your sweet cravings with handcrafted treats. (Image: Sisko Chocolate)

    No trip to an Aussie regional town is complete without a stop at the pub. Pig & Whistle Hotel sits surrounded by farmland. Soak it in from the locally beloved beer garden. Here, pub classics include a parmigiana with an Irish twist.  

    For a more refined experienced, dine at du Fermier , where chef and owner Annie Smithers crafts a weekly menu of French farmhouse-style dishes, often sourcing ingredients from her nearby farm in Lyonville. 

    And if you have a sweet tooth, don’t leave town without a cheeky stop at Sisko Chocolate Studio , where owner Christina Tantsis has built a chocolate-lovers wonderland inside a stunning architectural space. Her handcrafted creations use couverture from Valrhona, a certified B Corporation, and the hot chocolates are positively sinful. 

    4. Woodend

    Kuzu Izakaya in woodend, daylesford
    Taste incredible Japanese cuisine at Kuzu Izakaya.

    Taste local drops in town at the family-owned Woodend Cellar and Bar  – complemented by tapas and artisan platters featuring sourdough from the local bakery – or at 600 Above , a wine bar with a sunny courtyard and cosy fireplace serving small and large plates.  

    Nearby, Kuzu Izakaya  is the go-to place for Japanese dining. Chef Eriko Pannam has crafted a moreish menu of creative and traditional dishes; think miso cream scallops and everyone’s favourite, Japanese fried chicken. 

    Mount Macedon Winery  is another must-visit for wine connoisseurs. Enjoy a glass and wood-fired pizza on the deck, or opt for fine dining at their Cellar Door Restaurant.

    5. Kyneton

    Piper Street in Kyneton is overflowing with top-notch eateries. Take Prato , specialising in traditional Greek dishes and pinsa (a lighter, crispier version of traditional pizza); or the upscale Midnight Starling , where chef Steve Rogers serves French classics inside a historic building with bluestone cellar. 

    A little further down, The Piper Street Wine Company is a European restaurant and wine bar inside a gorgeous heritage building. Their evolving menu highlights one European country or region at a time, so there’s always something new to discover. Further along, Fook Shing  delivers a flavour-packed Southeast Asian menu using local and regional Victorian produce.

    6. Castlemaine

    Blue cheese from Long Paddock Cheese.
    Discover rich, creamy cheeses crafted by a certified cow’s milk artisan cheesemaker. (Image: Long Paddock Cheese)

    Cafes, bars and restaurants have taken up residence inside this former Gold Rush town’s historic buildings. At The Mill Castlemaine – an 1870s woollen mill turned creative hub – you’ll find Long Paddock Cheese , a small-scale artisan cheesemaker that uses certified-organic cow’s milk from a nearby family-owned farm; and Das Kaffeehaus , a Viennese cafe serving traditional Austrian food with coffee from their small batch roastery. 

    Meanwhile, inside the Midland Hotel you’ll find the chef-hatted Bar Midland , founded by locals Loudon Cooper and Alexander Marano. Their monthly set menu celebrates Victorian producers who focus on sustainable land management, and often utilises indigenous food, introduced wild animals and weeds.

    7. Lancefield & Romsey

    A flatlay of food from Lost Watering Hole.
    Savour beautifully plated dishes in a relaxed setting. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Art meets food and wine at Mount Monument , located just outside of Romsey. The beautiful vineyard is home to a sculpture park, cellar door and restaurant with a menu shaped by the Macedon Ranges’ rich seasonal produce.  

    In town, The 1860 Romsey  has reimagined a 160-year-old hotel. Here, country pub charm meets modern bistro, with a menu that supports local at every opportunity (their Central Victorian Oakdale Black Angus steak is a winner).  

    A few minutes’ drive north, the Lost Watering Hole  in Lancefield is a family-friendly brewery and restaurant crafting 100% naturally brewed beers. Their unusual names – No Dodo, Flightless, Big Roo – make sense once you learn Lancefield is the location of one of the richest deposits of megafauna fossils in Australia.

    8. Harcourt

    Lovely pastries from Hartcourt Produce & General Store.
    Treat yourself to buttery, house-made Danish pastries. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Harcourt is famous for its apple orchards and cider production, and there’s no better place to visit than The Little Red Apple . At this roadside store, you can stock up on fresh crisp apples, ciders, vinegars, juices, and other gourmet products. 

    To taste more local delights, pop into the Harcourt Produce & General Store , renowned for their house-made danishes, or stop at Sutton Grange Winery  where winemaker Chris Smales crafts wines using their organically grown estate fruit. Open on Sundays, it’s an idyllic spot to slow down over wine, pizzas and share plates. 

    Start planning your next outdoor adventure at victoriasheartland.com.au.