It has a unique flavour [bush tucker]

Sarah Tierney takes a fresh look at Australia’s clever culinary wilderness, including devouring the coat of arms, some ingenious Indigenous bush remedies, and even a recipe for good old fashioned Beer Damper.

If you thought traditional Aussie cuisine meant Vegemite on toast followed by a lamington for dessert, it’s time you expanded your horizons. Have you tried kangaroo yet? How about crocodile and emu? Or fruits like Kakadu plums, rosellas, riberries and the humble quandong, to name but a few? Bush tucker of this kind is becoming more famous and widespread, thanks to a spate of health studies that have revealed that native Australian meat, especially emu and roo, are lower in fat and higher in iron than other conventional meats. The fruits are also known to be healthier, with the Kakadu plum thought to be the world’s highest source of Vitamin C.

Most of what European settlers believed to be inedible is now considered very much the norm on the menus of top restaurants around the country. But of course the best place to experience real bush tucker is in the outback, where kangaroo is as common as beef and our original hunter-gatherers – the Australian Aboriginals – knew all the secret water spots and foods of the land.

Going walkabout for tucker

One of the most authentic spots in Australia for kick-starting your knowledge of bush tucker is in South Australia’s Northern Flinders Ranges, along the road to the Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary , at Iga Warta. This Indigenous-run Coulthard family business features a whole swag of cultural tours, one of which is Yata Nukuntha – a bush tucker and medicine tour detailing Dreamtime stories of the local tribes along the way. The three-hour trek brings visitors in touch with just some of the more than 600 types of edible plants, seeds and nuts in what Adnyamathanha tour guide Sharpy Coulthard refers to as his outback “supermarket". Interestingly, it’s from this region, and from the local Adnyamathanha language, that the word “witchetty grub" derives (wityu = hooked stick, vartu = grub) . . . so if you’re brave enough, ask Sharpy to dig one up for you. They taste like egg when cooked, like almonds when raw, and are a massive source of protein.

Next it’s out from the bushes and into the barrooms, with this iconic bush tucker location tucked away on the northwestern fringe of Flinders Ranges National Park, in the tiny town of Parachilna. It’d be a blink-and-you-miss-it kind of town if it weren’t for the famous Prairie Hotel and its Feral Mixed Grill of roo, wallaby, camel and goat for the hungry. Of course there’s other modern-Aussie food served here, but none is as popular as the Grill. Then there’s the Copley Bush Bakery and Quandong Café, about an hour north of Parachilna, which caters to the sweet tooth with its popular quandong pies and desserts, along with native-style cafe food. And let’s not forget Darwin’s Roadkill Café, a LOT further north, which serves up freshly cooked meat daily. Don’t worry; it’s not actual tire-marked, flattened road kill, but safely prepared possum, roo, croc and other game meat.

National pride, national diet

Interestingly, the native animals on Australia’s Coat of Arms – the emu and the red kangaroo – are peculiar in that they can’t walk backwards (presumably representing the thrusting, forward-looking progress of our young nation) and are the only living national emblems in the world that are regularly consumed by their subjects (ie, us). Of course most restaurants and hotels in the outback will have roo and emu and other native foods on the menu – but when you live in the outback, why wouldn’t you? Just make sure you don’t go traipsing around picking any old berry or leaf to eat, or else you’ll find yourself in dire need of some native medicine. Which brings us to . .

Bush cures

Native plants aren’t just for eating; they have some pretty potent medicinal uses too. Some that treat the more common health issues include the leaves of the rock fuchsia bush, which can be made into a drink for headaches, or you can mash the stems of a snakevine and wind it around your head. Looks ridiculous, but apparently works. Colds can be combated with native lemon grass or by crushing tea tree leaves to help clear the nose. Tree orchid bulb sap can be dabbed onto cuts for quick healing, or you can apply crushed billygoat weed to the wound. And if you’re ever in the outback and get whacked with a bout of toothache, plug the tooth with the shredded wood of the green plum tree, or pop some quinine berry fruits into your mouth.

But perhaps the ultimate repository for Australian bush medicines can be found at Dilthan Yolngunha – The Healing Place – a kind of Indigenous bush hospital set up by the Yothu Yindi Foundation at Gulkula, 30mins outside Nhulunbuy on Arnhem Land’s Gove Peninsula (www.healingplace.com.au). All manner of traditional treatments, ointments, liniments and methods are used here, some you’ll not believe until you’ve seen them – like the antiseptic use, for example, of liquid drained from the digestive canal of a bush cockroach.

A classic recipe

Finally, we thought we’d end our wander through Australia’s culinary wilderness with an absolute staple for your next walkabout adventure: it’s a Damper (with a beery twist), and it should be an integral part of everyone’s outback camping skills. Drovers used it, Aboriginals used it, and these days it’s an institution at school camps. And with beer, the damper is lighter and fluffier than normal. Take four cups of self-raising flour, one stubby of beer, a pinch of salt and mix everything together until it forms a dough. Shape the dough into a ball and place it on a rack over the fire (or in the oven) and cook until golden brown and hollow when tapped.

You can’t really call yourself a modern Australian until you’ve cooked your first damper. And if you think you’ve got a better version of this recipe, or even another idea or inspiration for your own bush remedies or outback tucker, send them in to editor@australiantraveller.com . . . and happy outback eating!

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns.

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet

The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.

Split point lookout — The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities.

Lorne to Birregurra

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.

Brae restaurant — Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.

The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.

Port Campbell to Timboon

Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.

Warrnambool to Port Fairy

Warrnambool building — A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit.

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip.

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.