Warts and all: Memoirs of an Australian Traveller

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Australian Traveller started on a flight to Broome in 2004. Surprising then, that from the age of 14, all I wanted to do was get the hell out of Australia.

As far as I was concerned, life started once I crossed the Australian border and started exploring ‘the world’.

I was a fresh-faced, long-haired 18-year-old backpacker when I first travelled through Europe and the US. My round-the-world ticket cost $1800 and flew me via Colombo, Sri Lanka, on an Air Lanka jet where the rivets popped every time we took off and landed. But no matter.

I lived by the words of a weighty Let’s Go Europe guide that weighed a ton. It led me to the most flea-bitten, cheap accommodation I could afford. I survived a mate almost dying in Zermatt, a crazy Viennese slum lord, homeboys and bed bugs in NYC and several memory-impairing visits to Amsterdam. I survived my youthful wanderlust, in other words. Just.

I returned from my gap year not knowing that’s what I had done. Back then you merely ducked uni for a year and went travelling. Most people thought it strange and exotic and said things like, “Wow, you’re adventurous, aren’t you?" I just thought it was a better use of my time than studying.

I took a job in publishing with the hope of using it to fund my travel. It worked.

The boss deported me to Singapore for 18 months, then London for two and a half years. I hated Singapore and loved London.

The summer holidays in Italy were glorious – long days in Florence, the Tuscan coast, Rome and even a week-long sojourn in Venice. It was everything I had always wanted. I didn’t want to leave.

Unfortunately, I returned to Australia earlier than I had hoped to (thanks, boss), this time with a de-facto English girlfriend in tow.

To kick off the Australian leg of our relationship, I booked us a holiday in Broome. It was May 2004.

Flying over Roebuck Bay, I looked down and for the first time, saw the amazing aquamarine water lapping up against the pindan soil of Outback Australia. Why had I never been here?

I was embarrassed. I had seen the world and not seen my own country. Worse – I had never wanted to see my own country.

As the Virgin Blue flight bounced onto the tarmac, my brain synapses seemed to be aligning in one heightened moment. An idea lit up my brain, like a child on red cordial: Australian Traveller. A magazine for those who’ve travelled the world but not their own backyard. People like me. I was electrified by the idea.

I pitched the idea to my flatmate Nigel the night we returned from Broome. He asked one question: “is the web address available?"

And so, I became a website owner.

We spent the next six months having a few hundred beers and trying to figure out why people smarter than us had not yet sold their houses to fund the launch of a domestic travel magazine. I could tell you why now. It’s a lot of effort.

In what could be considered a miracle, we launched the magazine on 25 May 2005. We were mates, and now business partners.

On that day the Aussie dollar was buying 76 US cents, John Howard was two years away from Kevin ’07, Australia had held the Ashes for 16 consecutive years and Gwen Stefani’s Hollaback Girl was on top of the charts. Social media was studying journalism at a uni with a decent student bar.

The launch was crazy – we never expected to get death threats. Someone hated us for publishing ‘the 10 ugliest towns in the country’, so much so that they emailed, promising to kill us if they lost a single booking! I was touched they thought we were so powerful.

Readers loved the magazine. Australia as a destination was resting on its post-Olympic and Rugby World Cup bottom whilst Kiwi luxury lodges were the hot topic in antipodean travel.

We were also lucky to have some powerful friends, with former Deputy Prime Minister Tim Fischer being our founding columnist. True to his great passion, almost every destination featured by Tim in two years of columns included a train somewhere.

His role as Chairman of Tourism Australia at the time helped. Having a beer after we published issue #4, Tim was his usual honest self. “Congratulations boys, that’s three more issues than anyone ever expected."

2006 was a breakthrough year. Our first annual 100 – ‘100 Things To Do Before You Die’ is still our best-selling issue of all time.

We followed that up with our first Outback issue, another cracker sale – and the first time I had returned to the countryside that had inspired me into this crazy venture. Shooting the cover on the Mundi Mundi plains, I felt I was living under ‘the big sky’ for the first time.

That year, a lot of relationships started and ended. The English girlfriend decided Australia was a great place to visit but ‘old Blighty’ was probably a better place to live. I didn’t agree but was in love with other things soon enough.

I had never met Aboriginal people who only spoke their native language until I went to Garma. At Cape Arnhem, I was blown away and it dawned on me that most people’s mysticism is the same.

My new girlfriend didn’t like that I was out of contact for the whole 10 days, however. We moved in together when I got back.

For me, qualia started a new era in Australian travel, the first world-class luxury lodge to take it to the Kiwis… And me. I took my now live-in girlfriend there eight weeks after the opening.

That stay wasn’t all smooth sailing. The activities guys had dropped us off for a romantic picnic on our own beach but forgot to bring the picnic, the umbrella or water… let alone any champagne. The staff arrived just when we started to think panic would be the only solution.

My live-in girlfriend cried when we left qualia. (“I’ll never ever get to stay at a place like this again.") We went back for five nights on our honeymoon. She didn’t cry when we left that time – we were headed for Longitude 131.

True to my reformed travelling self, our entire honeymoon was spent in Australia.

Since that moment, Luxury Lodges of Australia have become all the rage. I took my wife to Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa the day after our first son was officially conceived via IVF. She declared it the greatest bed she has ever slept on. “Even better than qualia."

Now when I meet people and they ask, “How long have you been at Australian Traveller?" I only ever say, ‘from the beginning’.

They immediately want to know my favourite place. The answer is always the same. “Depends."

It depends on what you like, what you want and how you like to travel – for there is only one certainty, as far as I can see. That around every corner I’ll be surprised and delighted by yet another piece of this amazing country.

Quentin Long
Quentin Long is the Co-Founder and Managing Director of Australian Traveller Media. Quentin is a sought-after travel media commentator. He is Australia’s most trusted source for travel news and insights, having held weekly radio segments across the country since 2006, and regularly appearing on Channel 9’s Today and A Current Affair programs from 2010. Don't ask him his favourite travel experience as that's like asking him to choose a favourite child. However he does say that Garma Festival is the one travel experience that changed him the most.
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How to spend a tasty long weekend in Geelong and the Bellarine

    Lucy CousinsBy Lucy Cousins
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    From rust-coloured foliage and foodie experiences to stunning sunsets, this part of Victoria is best explored as the mild days of winter arrive.

    As the heat of the summer sun subsides and the milder days roll in, the stunning landscapes of Geelong and the Bellarine add pops of colour. The slight chill in the air will stir your taste buds and invite you to explore the peninsula’s foodie hotspots, while the vivid sunsets and cooler evenings will draw you to cosy fireside chats and evening adventures to watch the stars appear one at a time.

    Just over an hour from busy Flinders Street, or a short 25-minute drive from Avalon Airport, Geelong is Melbourne’s cooler, more laid-back cousin with a sparkling marina, stunning surf beaches, impressive museums and a lively foodie scene.

    federal mill geelong in autumn
    Winter is the perfect time to see local sights.

    It’s also the perfect starting point from which to explore the Bellarine Peninsula. Packed full of jaw-dropping scenery, inviting townships and over 40 cellar doors serving up local cool-weather wines, winter here is distinctly beautiful with its change of colours, temperatures and produce.

    Whether you drive or catch the short but incredibly scenic ferry from the Mornington Peninsula, it’s no surprise this region offers up one of Australia’s best long weekend destinations. Here’s how to soak it all up.

    Day 1: Explore Geelong with the locals

    Morning

    Start the day by grabbing breakfast and strong coffee from Pavilion Geelong (try the braised mushrooms on toast) while watching the gentle waves lapping the edge of Corio Bay. After brekkie, join the locals walking along the scenic Art Deco waterfront to explore the historic piers, beautiful beaches and gleaming white yachts in the marina.

    Pavilion Geelong in winter
    Start the day at Pavilion Geelong.

    Afternoon

    After a morning in the sun, venture to the recently refurbished Federal Mill precinct , a grand old woollen mill built in 1915. Explore the industrial history of this area, as well as the gourmet produce on offer, before pulling up a table at the popular Paddock Bakery . Famous for their wood-fired sourdough and tasty pastries, this cafe serves up tasty dishes like their Crème Brûlée doughnuts. Chase your lunch down with an afternoon of gin tasting at Anther Distillery .

    Paddock Bakery Crème Brûlée doughnut
    Try the Paddock Bakery Crème Brûlée doughnuts.

    Night

    For an evening of frivolity and decadence, head back to Geelong for dinner and a show at the newly reopened Geelong Arts Centre . Later, enjoy a mini Negroni with a scoop of Black Pearl Oscietra Gold caviar at the sleek Non Disclosure Bar .

    Day 2: A foodie-centric day in Moorabool Valley

    Morning

    Wake up with the soft winter sun and cooler temperatures, then travel to the lush farmlands and stunning landscapes of Moorabool Valley, the home of Meredith Farm Store . Choose a seat outside in the leafy courtyard and enjoy a tasting platter of fresh produce among the flowers.

    Afternoon

    To explore the area, visit the cellar door at the Moorabool Valley Wine Collective , which encompasses three award-winning winemakers, before stopping by Austin’s Wines for lunch. Not only can you taste over 10 local wines at the dedicated tastings bar, but you can also curate your own cheese platter to eat outside on their shaded deck.

    two people trying the wine at Austin's wines
    Stop by Austin’s Wines for lunch.

    Night

    Continue on your foodie quest with dinner in Newtown at the Asian fusion Two Noble restaurant, or, inside the same venue at Sawyers Arms Tavern, dive into the European flavours of Eileen’s Charcoal Grill on your way back to Geelong.

    table spread at two noble restaurant
    The chef’s hatted Two Noble restaurant is waiting.

    Day 3: Adventures in The Bellarine

    Morning

    For a light breakfast, head 20 minutes out of town to the rustic Ket Baker , an artisan bakery known for their 100% sourdough croissants. Grab a hot cuppa under the gum trees and enjoy the morning chill in the air. Then spend the morning on the foodie-focused Bellarine Taste Trail , visiting local producers like  Bellarine Smokehouse Flying Brick Cider House  and FarmDog Brewing .

    croissants at ket baker
    Enjoy a light breakfast at Ket Baker.

    Lunch

    There’s no better way to enjoy lunch than to make it from scratch. With Harvest Experience’s Pasta & Pinot cooking class, you’ll have a genuine farm-to-plate experience as you learn to make fettuccini and filled ravioli from scratch. Once cooked, sit down, relax and enjoy your hard work with a glass of Bellarine Peninsula pinot noir.

    Afternoon and night

    Burn off your lunch with an afternoon trip to the bayside town of Portarlington , where Australian blue mussels are harvested offshore. Stop by the quirky Ducks Nuts and peruse the trinkets and treasures before making your way to the restored Portarlington Grand Hotel . Built in 1888, this beautiful building now houses four distinct dining experiences, including the new open-air spaces of The Atrium and Lawn, where you can enjoy a local gin as the sun sets over the bay.

    waiter holding mussels at Portarlington Grand Hotel
    Be sure to try Portarlington mussels.

    Start planning your ultimate Geelong & The Bellarine adventure at visitgeelongbellarine.com.au.